In fact, they are the most grown “crop” in the country, covering more space than wheat, corn, and fruit trees combined.

Every year, we tend them, mow them, maintain them, and strive to improve their condition, health, and aesthetic.

But have you ever stopped to wonder why?!

In this article, we take a look at the history of lawns, and find out that they’re not as great as you might think.

The Origin of Lawns – The Spark Notes Version

The west’s obsession with lawns has a long history, but for anyone who would just like the abridged summary, here it is in a nutshell:

When you think about it, lawn care is absolutely bizarre. So why do we do it? Read on to find out!

What is a Lawn?

Lawn, noun: a stretch of open, grass-covered land, especially one closely mowed, as near a house, on an estate, or in a park.

I will draw your attention to a key part of the above lawn definition from Dictionary.com – “especially one closely mowed.”

That, right there, is what sets this patch of green space apart from every other crop. The necessity to keep it under control, to trim it back, and to go to war with nature.

I’m not a fan of linking to Wikipedia, but it does mention another key phrase – (lawns are) used for aesthetic and recreational purposes.

Which is one of the main reasons we keep them around in this day and age – but not why they first originated.

But what does a lawn actually consist of? It’s just grass, right?!

Depending on your region, lawns are made from a variety of different grass species – and you can follow that link to learn about the most popular types.

What on earth is this all about?!

The History of Grass Lawns

Why do we have lawns?

A lawn’s roots (historically, and not literally), lie in England, and parts of Europe, where they became a much-desired form of landscaping in the 17th and 18th centuries.

But the history of lawns and etymology of the word is actually much older.

The word “lawn” comes from a 15th century English word, laune, which, in turn, is derived from the 13th century launde, which itself comes from the old French word lande.

We could go back further, but you get the point. It basically means a glade, or open space in a forest or woods.

A clearing, or barren area of land.

It was on this area of land that farmers would graze their livestock in the Middle Ages.

And for anyone rich enough to own a castle back in those days, a lawn was valued as a form of defense. You can easily see an army coming across a vast, grassy expanse, rather than hidden in a wood.

If only Macbeth had cultivated a lawn!

But the fashionable style and design of these green spaces we know today were created centuries later, in order to replicate the rolling pastures and fields of England, and/or the Italian pastoral landscape.

England’s natural beauty has long held the admiration and adulation of writers, poets, and artists – which may also have been something of an inspiration to early landscape gardeners.

William Blake’s iconic work And Did Those Feet in Ancient Time, (more commonly known as the hymn Jerusalem), is one such example, as Jesus was purportedly “on England’s pleasant pastures, seen.”

So too with colonizing landowners, keen to replicate the look of a manicured English garden, trimmed grassy areas to within an inch of its life, the borders cut with geometric precision.

As such, English imperialism is somewhat to blame for lawns being created around the world, where they became a status symbol, and a sign of wealth and well-to-do society reveling in the hey-day of the British Empire.

Think of them as the 18th century equivalent of a social-media flex. Manicure that baby up, and see how many likes you get from your fellow landed gentry.

That, and they looked nice, and reminded colonialists of home.

Popular English sports such as cricket, football (soccer), and golf required large areas of cultivated turf to play, and lawns became known as a place for recreational purposes – as well as aesthetically pleasing ones.

And yet, when we get down to brass tacks – it’s just all about the money.

The History of Lawns in America

Wealthy landowners in North America began replicating these gardens in the 18th-century, and it is widely regarded that Thomas Jefferson and George Washington are responsible in part.

They both hired English landscape gardeners to recreate the look of an English country estate on their respective plantations.

And with that, the rest of the country sat up and took notice, copying the trend across the nation. If you had the means, of course.

Everyone wanted to show everyone else they had money, and lawns were one way to do it.

Which has led to the obsession American homeowners have with them to this day.

Indeed, our desire for pristine green spaces is so ingrained in our society that we actually have laws, rules, and regulations enforcing the upkeep of lawns in our neighborhoods.

People are actually imprisoned for failing to trim their lawns!

Owning the best lawn care tools and equipment has also become an obsessive preoccupation, as homeowners strive for the American dream – of which a well-manicured lawn is very much a part of.

In fact, you could argue that obsessive lawn care in the US is a hangover from those early plantation days, and remains an unconscious (or conscious) desire to display wealth that’s deeply entrenched in our national psyche.

Whether we’re aware of it or not – we’re still desperate to show others we’re doing well for ourselves.

And spending billions maintaining something that gives almost nothing back could certainly be considered an asinine way to do it!

For a more detailed exploration of the history of lawns in America, follow that link to an excellent article by Scientific American.

And this piece explores how we might look to end this toxic lawn obsession.

You can also watch the entertaining, and hilarious video below, which also touches on many of the points made here.

The History of Lawnmowers

Lawns don’t take care of themselves, even if they are the most self-sustaining crop we humans can cultivate.

These days, we have so many different types of lawnmower that it can be hard to know which is the right one to use.

Lawn mowing technology didn’t start to properly develop until the 19th century. Before this, landowners would hire (or enslave) men to do the (incredibly) hard work.

Have you ever used a scythe? It’s absolutely brutal!

Thankfully, the dawn of mechanization saw advancements in agricultural machinery, and it was in Gloucestershire in 1830 that the first cylinder mower was invented.

But it wasn’t until 1902 that the first petrol lawnmower was introduced, which was a game changer for more efficient garden maintenance, and its descendants are still very much in use today.

However, opinions are shifting once more, and I, for one, am a champion of battery-powered lawnmowers over gas. Follow that link for some excellent examples of how this tech has improved.

And if you really want to explore the future of lawnmowers, this article on robots vs ride ons will tell you more.

There’s no getting away from the fact that robotic and battery-powered lawnmowers are the future.

That’s if lawns have any future at all…

The Negative Impact of Lawns

Lawn care and maintenance takes a lot of work – and it’s a massive, billion-dollar business.

If you’ve been thinking about doing away with the money, time, and effort it takes to look after a lawn, but you’re not yet convinced, then take a look at this summary the negative impact of this practice:

This list is not exhaustive – and there are better alternatives to lawns. Read on to find out more.

Lawn Alternatives

Regular readers will know that we do love a well-manicured lawn at Yardthyme, and we’ve written plenty of guides on how to achieve one.

Our complete month-by-month lawn care calendar is a good example!

But that’s not to say we’re not open to alternatives, and we recognize that lawns aren’t that great for the environment in general.

Perhaps it’s time to consider other options as our needs and tastes evolve – as well as the needs of the planet? Here are a few examples to get you started:

In an ideal world, vegetable gardens and patches across the land would replace our lawns. If you’re looking at alternatives, I urge you to try to grow your own food.

Allowing the grass to grow as nature intended is another option. If your yard has a lot of sun, try cultivating a prairie garden. Encouraging natural, native plants is highly beneficial to insects, wildlife, and the ecosystem as a whole.

Have you ever considered cultivating a moss lawn, or perhaps a cover-based one? Follow those links for the pros and cons of each.

(Spoiler – they’re both much less work to maintain than what you currently have!)

And speaking of less work, synthetic lawns might not be everyone’s cup of tea – but they require little to no maintenance, and will save you a small fortune over time.

This article on artificial turf vs sod will tell you more.

And think about this – they never, ever need watering…

There are many more alternatives to lawns out there, and the sky’s the limit for what you could have in your yard. Feel free to share your ideas in the comments!

The Future of Lawns

All that said, we recognize that lawns are still very much a part of societal norms, and, love them or hate them, they’re here to stay.

For the time being, at least.

Lawns are aesthetically pleasing areas, which can be of great use when it comes to calming the mind.

They continue to offer a safe and comfortable place for our children, pets, and family to relax and play; and not everyone has the time, will, means, or desire to do anything more than tackle the annual mowing season.

That, and a tidy, attractive lawn can add as much as 11% onto the value of our property.

So, there’s surely a happy medium to be had?

Here’s a good example:

Last year, I used a sod-cutter to remove a large chunk of lawn at the bottom of my garden. This was replaced with several vegetable boxes, and a charming fire-pit area perfect for social gatherings.

We now grow our own food, and are nearly self-sustaining – when it comes to vegetables, at least!

And while I recognize that, for many homeowners at least, removing a lawn just isn’t possible, or practical; I think the future of lawns is in trying to trim them back a little – while still keeping a moderate, well-maintained patch of green.

That is why we will still promote and practice responsible, ethical, and eco-friendly lawn care on this website.

And speaking of, check out this article on Mother-Nature approved lawn maintenance, and go here to find out how to make your own organic DIY fertilizer!

Summary

I hope you’ve enjoyed our brief foray into the history of lawns, and that you’re more familiar with our largely unhealthy obsession with this archaic practice.

But they continue to have a place in our lives, and they’re not going anywhere, any time soon.

Let me know your thoughts on the topic in the comments. Are you a hard-core lawn-care enthusiast? Perhaps you’re looking at alternatives? Maybe you have a great suggestion to replace residential lawns?

In the meantime, stay safe out there, and happy gardening!

Aside from the expense, they can be very harmful to the environment, not to mention to ourselves, children, and pets.

And used incorrectly, they can also cause unwanted damage in desirable areas of your garden – such as across vegetable patches, flower beds, and in your lawn itself.

So, what are the alternatives?

In this article, we take a look at how to get rid of weeds in your lawn without using chemicals, as well as for treating other areas in your garden.

Because herbicide use should be a last resort.

Removing Weeds Without Chemicals – Too Long, Didn’t Read

If you’re in a bit of a rush and don’t have the time to read our full article, here’s what’s covered in a brief summary.

The most effective/popular ways of treating weeds without using harsh chemicals and herbicides are as follows:*

Of course, we still highly recommend you continue reading and explore each method in depth, as there will be some top tips and advice included for how to achieve the best results.

How to Get Rid of Weeds in Lawn without Chemicals

DIY Weed Control/Organic Herbicides

Removing weeds manually can be a daunting process if you have a large lawn. It takes time and might not even be as easy as it sounds. But, the weeds need to go regardless of whether you have the time to do it or not.

The good thing is that you can still enjoy the convenience of spraying herbicides without using chemical solutions.

You can use homemade solutions with readily-available items from your pantry, such as:

A Vinegar Salt Mix

Vinegar alone is useful to get rid of weeds on a small lawn. It is even better when mixed with salt and regular dish soap.

This recipe, one-gallon white vinegar, one cup salt, and one tablespoon salt is an example of a homemade weed control mix.

Dish Soap

While dish soap alone won’t harm weeds, it can certainly help when combined with other ingredients.

Add dish soap to a vinegar/salt concentration, as it will act as a surfactant, and will help break down the outer layer of the weed, so the vinegar can properly go to work.

A Vodka Mix

If you have a bottle of vodka lying in your pantry, you can make use of it to kill weeds in your lawn. You can use one ounce of vodka, two cups of water and a few drops of dish soap to create a weed-control solution.

When using this solution, be careful not to overdo it and risk destroying the plants. Vodka is quick to dry the leaves and might result in more harm than good if overused.

Corn Gluten Meal

This is quite a surprise, right? You can use corn gluten meal to suffocate weeds in your lawn.

This powder, a byproduct of the corn milling process, prevents weed seeds from germinating. It is suitable for use regularly as it is non-toxic to plants and animals.

However, you need to be careful how much you use. It can quickly suppress plants in your lawn, especially during the seeding period.

Remember, if you are sowing seeds in your yard, you will have to wait until the seeds have germinated to use this method.

Boiling Water

If you are looking for a simple solution to get rid of weeds, a kettle of boiling water might do the trick.

This method is suitable when planting a lawn where you need to clear weeds. Be careful when using it on gardens with other plants as the hot water can destroy the roots of the plants.

Organic Herbicides

If you don’t fancy concocting your own DIY weed killers, you can always use something that’s ready-made.

There are plenty of organic herbicide options out there, such as this popular product from Green Gobbler.

You might also like to look at this article, which explores non-toxic, pet-friendly weed killers.

Finally, this piece on nine tips for organic lawn care will offer some expert advice on environmentally conscious care for your grass.

With that in mind, care must be taken when using such formulas around areas of desirable plant life.

Hand Digging

If you are wondering how to get rid of broadleaf weeds in your lawn, hand-digging might be helpful. Weeds like broadleaf are easy to pull out using a hand shovel.

This method works well as a spot treatment method or in small, manageable lawns.

You might need to dig regularly to get rid of the weeds completely. The idea is to dig out the weeds while they are still young. This ensures they are not yet in the seeding stage to prevent regrowth.

For broadleaf weeds in your lawn, I highly recommend the Fiskars Weed Puller.

Case Study – some time ago, for a number of seasons, I had an infestation of dandelions in my front and rear lawns. I just couldn’t find the time to treat them.

That was until I decided enough was enough, and I picked up the Fiskars Weed Puller to try and address the problem without the need to use chemicals.

One heavy weed-pulling session later and the lawn was finally dandelion free. The best part, however, didn’t come until the following year.

Using this tool, I’d managed to get almost every single one, which meant barely any of them came back!

Of course, a dandelion problem in your lawn might just be the symptom of something else – your garden is in much need of aeration.

Check out this article on the benefits of aeration (including weed control) and how to do it.

Mulching

This is one of the most proven methods of keeping weeds at bay. Mulching involves covering the base of the plants with bark, wood chips, or compost.

Mulching suffocates the weeds preventing them from poking through to the surface. Also, it is a beneficial practice as it helps to retain moisture in the soil.

It is important to note that some mulching materials may not prevent weeds from growing. For example, hay, in most cases, has a lot of seeds. These seeds can quickly germinate, creating more of a problem than a solution.

Newspapers, on the other hand, can be a great mulching material. You can create a carpet of newspapers by using a couple of sheets together and wetting them down.

These will block sunlight and oxygen from reaching the soil. On this note, sprouting weeds and seeds will eventually die due to the unfavorable conditions.

You can add any other type of mulch on top to keep the newspaper carpet in place and increase effectiveness. After some time, the newspaper mulch will decompose and add nutrients to the soil.

Create Competition

Well, if your plants can grow faster and choke weeds that are trying to grow, then you can control weeds easily. Weeds only grow where there are favorable conditions and adequate space.

You can add dense ground plants with heavy root systems to prevent weeds from growing underneath. These plants also create a shade affecting the conditions that facilitate weed growth.

Think of this as your lawn grass competing with weeds for the basic growth needs. Sunlight, water, nutrients, and growing space are what weeds need to take over your lawn.

Give your lawn grass an advantage by planting more of it and keeping it in the best shape all through.

Overseeding is the best way to encourage your existing grass to choke out any weed infestation. Think of it as adding ranks to your lawn army in the fight for plant superiority.

Check out this article on overseeding to discover how and why it works, as well as some top tips on how to achieve optimum results.

Regulate How Much and How Often You Water Your Lawn

Again, weeds will grow where the conditions are right and consistent.

On a lawn where you water every other day, it is difficult to keep weeds away. You help create an environment that keeps them nourished and thriving. Therefore, you should give the plants only what they need.

Trees, shrubs, and perennial plants may not need regular watering. Watering deeply but less frequently will provide enough moisture to last a long time.

This article on how to properly water your lawn will tell you everything you need to know.

On the other hand, vegetables may need more water to thrive. But, you can be selective on which ones need the most water and how often you need to do it.

Regulate Feeding

If you are always adding compost to your lawn, you might be creating a bigger problem than a solution.

Weeds are still plants – whether you want them in your yard or not. Overfeeding your lawn adds nutrients to the soil, and will feed the weed just as much as it will feed the grass.

Unless, of course, you’re using a selective weed and feed formula that’s been designed to suppress weeds before they grow. Just remember, these pre-emergent herbicides are going to be of no use for removing an existing weed problem.

Overfeeding can also cause fertilizer burn, which can scorch grass blades and other desirable plant life. Follow that link for more information about this unsightly but treatable problem.

As such, it’s important to regulate how much fertilizer (feed) you’re adding to your lawn and other areas of your yard.

In fact, I would highly recommend addressing any weed problems well before you start laying down the fertilizer.

Take Care Digging and Tilling

As much as a poor fertilization regime can cause you additional weed problems, so can too much digging and tilling in your flower beds and vegetable patches.

Every time you turn over the soil, you bring more weed seeds to the surface, and provide them with the best possible perimeters for germination.

Of course, when planting new desirables, tilling and digging (especially over large areas) is unavoidable. You still need to prepare the soil for accepting seeds.

With that in mind, you need to make sure you’re taking steps to prevent weeds from developing in the future, such as laying down weed barriers, and – if you’re fine with it – using a pre-emergent herbicide.

Soil Solarization

Unless you want to completely kill your lawn (more on this below) soil solarization is only suitable for areas where you want to remove all plant life.

But it’s a very effective, albeit time-consuming method.

It involves blanketing an entire area with tarpaulin, landscape fabric, heavy-duty trash bags, or rolls of special plastic sheeting – basically blocking out access to the sun, oxygen, and other nutrients a plant needs to survive. Effectively suffocating them.

And for a plant, no sun = death.

It also significantly raises the soil temperature, which creates a hostile environment that will kill and/or significantly restrict plant growth.

However, this process can take several months before you see results, and it can be a laborious effort on your part – particularly if you’re laying down cover over large areas.

Additionally, as you’re looking to get the temperature under the sheeting to over 140 degrees Fahrenheit, this method is only at its most effective through the summer months.

But if time isn’t an issue, and you can afford to wait it out, solarization is a great way to treat large areas of unwanted plant life, where you can just lay down sheeting, forget about it, and let nature take its course.

Case study – after I removed a section of my lawn, I made the error of dumping the excess turf and soil next to a wall, the full length of my yard.

In no time at all it had been taken over by an enormous Creeping Charlie infestation!

As this was close to vegetable patches and flower beds, treating it with chemicals was not an option. Instead, we laid down black plastic sheeting to completely cover this horrible weed.

It’s taken the best part of a year, but this process has been effective in killing off (or at least controlling) this invasive species. And not once was a chemical used as a result.

Weeding Using a Flame

Flame weeding comes in handy when you start to notice a few weeds growing. This process involves passing a flame over the weeds to kill the plant tissues.

The method, however, does not deal with the weed from the roots. Therefore, you might need to flame a few times to eliminate them.

This method should only be applied when there is the least risk of fire. You want to avoid flaming during the dry spell period for safety.

Dethatching

Thatch is a layer of dead plant material that sits at the base of grass blades, close to the soil.

While it can be beneficial to a lawn (especially when protecting it from the scorching sun), it can also harbor pests, disease, and create an ideal environment in which weeds can flourish.

As such, it’s important that you dethatch your lawn at least once a year.

Dethatching won’t remove any existing weeds that have already broken through your lawn’s surface, but it does remove some of the building blocks that weeds require to grow.

But how do you dethatch a lawn?

Read our Ultimate Guide to Dethatching for all the information you’ll ever need on the subject.

Back to the Drawing Board

Sometimes, in extreme cases, weeds are so far gone in a lawn that there’s nothing else for it but to rip it up and start again.

This is a viable option if you’ve tried everything else, and/or you don’t want to go down the road of using harsh chemicals.

Like bankruptcy, but for lawns.

The advantages of killing off or removing a weed-infested lawn is that it will completely clear the problem, and give you a blank canvas on which to start again.

There are several ways to do this, but as using a grass killer herbicide would totally defeat the purpose of avoiding chemical use, the main options are by hand, using a sod cutter, or solarization.

Once the weed-ridden grass has been removed, you can then either lay new turf down, or you can try reseeding the entire area with new grass seed.

This article on lawn care after winter has a useful section on reseeding and overseeding.

Done correctly, you should have a brand-new lawn completely devoid of weeds.

But I wish it were easier done than said!

The almost overwhelming disadvantage to this option is that it’s going to be an extremely arduous process.

Regardless which method you choose, it will take a lot of time, effort, and – perhaps most notorious of all – money.

It might also put a strain on your relationship with your significant other. Trust me – I’ve been there, and this disadvantage is not to be overlooked.

Lifting and replacing a lawn is a huge undertaking that can be more trouble than it’s worth.

I personally would only recommend this course of action if you’re in dire straits, and you’re suffering from a weed problem that Poison Ivy would be proud of.

Check out the video below, which provides an excellent example of stripping and replacing a moss-filled lawn.

FAQs

How do I get rid of weeds in my lawn naturally?

There are multiple ways in which you can achieve this goal, and most (if not all) are outlined in the article above.

I would say the top three ways would be:

Remove them by hand (or with an appropriate tool), use an organic or homemade weed killer for spot treatment, and/or smother the weeds with mulch/newspaper/tarp.

How do you kill weeds in grass but not grass?

With great care! You have to use a selective weed killer that will kill the weeds without harming the grass.

Unfortunately, most selective, post-emergent herbicides are going to be classed as harsh chemicals.

If you’re 100% against using them, the only genuine way to kill weeds in your lawn without risking damaging the grass is to remove them manually.

Only then can you be sure you’re only targeting the weed.

What’s the easiest way to get rid of weeds in your lawn?

The easiest way might not be the safest, or the most ethical.

Using a selective herbicide on your lawn is the fastest way to eradicate unwanted plant life – but these products can be harmful to the environment, children, pets, and ourselves.

And just because you think you’re spraying them in one area, doesn’t mean they can’t travel to another – especially in windy conditions, or with run-off.

Remember, prevention is better than cure, and if you practice a good lawn care regime, you won’t need to be on your hands and knees with a trowel every year.

How do you permanently stop weeds from growing?

Alas, there is no guaranteed way to stop weeds from growing, as even with the harshest of chemicals, there’s a chance they might come back at a later date.

Life will always find a way.

But there are several methods you can put into practice to keep them at bay for as long as possible. Including using weed barriers, pre-emergent herbicides, and regular yard maintenance and upkeep.

What household products kill weeds?

Salt and vinegar (with 20% acidity) will kill weeds, while dish soap acts as a surfactant. Bleach, baking soda, and vodka will also work – although I would take care in their application.

Particularly when it comes to bleach – which shouldn’t be used in your garden at all, but rather on patios and driveways.

Is it better to pull weeds or spray?

It depends on the extent of your infestation.

Spot pull weeds by hand if there are only a few of them, but for larger areas with more extensive coverage, you’re going to want to use a spray of some description.

Summary

If you were wondering how to get rid of weeds in a lawn without chemicals, I hope this article has helped answer that question.

Some methods mentioned here can work independently, while others require additional strategies for effectiveness. Depending on the condition of your lawn, you can find a favorable solution without exposing your yard to chemicals.

Fall has arrived and you’re starting to wonder how to get rid of leaves without raking.

Luckily, there are a few good options. The one you choose will depend on the size of your yard and how many leaves there are.

Let’s get into it.

Quick Read

Top 7 Methods to Get Rid of Leaves without Raking

Let’s take a more detailed look at how to get rid of leaves without raking. These options aren’t listed in order, each has its pros and cons and suitability for different situations.

1. Mow and Leave

This option involves mowing your lawn without the catcher on your lawnmower and leaving the grass clippings mixed with leaves dispersed over your lawn.

The advantage of this method is that you don’t have to find a way to dispose of the leaves. The shredded leaves will naturally break down over time and provide a free and natural fertilizer for your lawn.

Just like mulching your lawn clippings, there are benefits to using leaves as mulch. Aside from providing fertilizer, researchers have found that leaving mulched leaves on an established lawn actually reduces the growth of dandelions. So it follows that this might be true for other weeds too.

This method works best if your grass is already short and the layer of leaves on your lawn isn’t too thick. If there are too many leaves, then even once they’ve been shredded by your lawnmower, they still run the risk of sticking together and preventing your lawn from getting the air and light it needs to remain healthy.

If you’re not sure whether you have too many leaves for this method to work well, try it out and then see what your lawn looks like afterwards. If you can still see plenty of grass showing through, then it’s probably fine. If not, then best remove some of them.

2. Mow and Collect

Assuming you have too many leaves for the above method to be an option, mowing your lawn and collecting the leaves in your lawnmower’s catcher is by far the best way to remove leaves from your lawn without raking.

The reason for this is that since the leaves get shredded in the removal process, they are perfectly suited for using as mulch in other parts of your garden, or adding to your compost pile.

Whole leaves take much longer to break down and aren’t as helpful as they can stick together and form a mat that stops moisture, light and air from passing through.

Shredded leaves, on the other hand, break down quickly and make a perfect mulch that your yard will thank you for.

Lastly, chances are you already own or have access to a lawnmower which saves the time and money associated with purchasing and maintaining another piece of equipment.

3. Use a Leaf Blower

Leaf blowers are a good alternative to raking leaves on hard surfaces where mowing isn’t an option. For example, if leaves have gathered on your driveway or in hard-to-reach nooks and crannies around your property, a leaf blower can be a good way of herding them all into one area.

However, there are cons to leaf blowers. The gas-powered ones are very noisy and your neighbors will not thank you for carrying out this chore too often, or at antisocial hours. They also only do half the job, after all, you still have to decide what to do with the leaves once you’ve blown them into a pile.

Best case scenario, you use an electric leaf blower on a windless day and blow the leaves into an already established compost pile in the corner of your yard.

Ultimately, when it comes to leaf blowing versus raking, there are pros and cons to both and it ends up being a preference thing. If you decide to take this route, be sure to brush up on the different types of leaf blowers first.

4. Use a Lawn Vacuum

If you have a big yard and a lot of leaves then a lawn vacuum may be the most practical option.

Lawn vacuums suck up yard debris into a sack, eliminating the need to go through the bagging process yourself. They come as either hand-held, walk-behind or tow-behind models depending on the size of your yard.

Hand-held vacuums are an excellent choice for small yards or if you have leaves in places other than on your lawn that you also want to collect.

Walk-behind or tow-behind vacuums are great for larger lawns and will also collect other debris like small sticks and pine cones.

5. Use a Lawn Sweeper

A lawn sweeper is a good unpowered alternative to a lawn vacuum and the best way to get rid of leaves from large areas with other debris as well. Instead of sucking up the leaves, a sweeper uses a rotating rake to gather up the leaves into a collection bag.

Sweepers can also come as push models, similar to reel mowers, or tow-behind models. They have the advantage of being significantly quieter than vacuums and are a very effective way of getting rid of leaves without raking.

If you like this option, I have a great guide to lawn sweepers that you should definitely check out before getting started.

6. Leave Them Be

You might be surprised to see this option here, but it’s worth thinking about whether removing leaves is really essential in your individual situation. After all, if you don’t really need to then that’s one less chore to worry about!

If you have a cabin in the woods or by a lake, or you have a lot of trees on your property and the lawn underneath them isn’t really much of a lawn, there may be no real reason to collect the leaves.

The main reasons we collect leaves are:

If you’re not worried about what your lawn looks like and the leaves aren’t causing any problem, then letting nature run its course is an option. The leaves will eventually break down and return their nutrients to the ground.

7. Pay Someone Else

Last but not least, you might not be a fan of raking up leaves, but chances are the 10 year old next door would be happy to in exchange for your loose change.

Alternatively, there are contractors who already own the equipment listed above and who you can hire to tidy up the leaves on your property without needing to purchase the tools yourself.

If you’re new to lawn care and are wondering what tools you might need to purchase for future maintenance jobs, check out this article.

Summary

Hopefully, you’re no longer wondering how to get rid of leaves without raking and instead are feeling relieved that there are multiple alternatives.

If you liked this article and are keen for more tips on fall leaf removal, I have another article that you’ll find helpful.

As always, feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below, and happy leaf gathering!

Is it going to work? Will it kill what you want it to? Is it going to harm anything else?

And a common question, particularly when it comes to using weed killers on lawns, is will grass grow back after Roundup?

Read on to find out, complete with essential tips and advice on how to save and regrow a damaged lawn if necessary.

Will Grass Grow Back After Weed Killer? Too Long, Didn’t Read

If you’re panicking because you think you’ve just sprayed a potent chemical where you shouldn’t, then here’s the answer up front:

It depends on the type of weed killer used, how much the grass has been exposed to, and the climate conditions, when it comes to whether the plant will bounce back or not.

But as a general rule of thumb, if you’ve not seen an improvement in your lawn or “dead grass” area after two weeks, then you can probably bet it’s not going to come back anytime soon.

If that’s the case, we’ve got some top tips coming up on how to return your lawn to its former glory, so you can stop hitting your head off a brick wall.

What is Roundup?

Roundup is the brand name of one of the most popular vegetation control products on the market, manufactured by Monsanto, which in turn was acquired by Bayer Pharmaceuticals in 2018.

Its most (infamous) ingredient is glyphosate, which is never too far away from the news, given that there’s evidence it is carcinogenic to us humans (when used in large quantities/incorrectly).

It’s a systemic, broad-spectrum herbicide, which basically means it attacks the system of a wide variety of plant life.

And it’s very potent at what it does.

Take a look at this article if you are looking for the best weed killers for driveways.

Top tip: There are many other branded weed killers that also use glyphosate as their active ingredient – not just Roundup. You should always make sure you know exactly what you’re spraying beforehand.

While this article uses the Roundup brand name, the same advice can be more or less said when using other glyphosate-based herbicides, or non-selective herbicide use on the lawn in general.

Selective and Non-Selective Herbicides

Without going into too much detail here, weed killers like Roundup are available in two distinct types – selective and non-selective herbicides.

Selective herbicides will only attack specific weeds – usually as noted on the product’s packaging or specifications.

Non-selective herbicides will damage or destroy pretty much any vegetation they touch – including desirable plant life, such as vegetables, flower beds, and – of course – grass.

(Check out this review of the best commercial-grade weed killers – most of which will be of the potent, non-selective variety.)

Why is this information important?

If you’ve sprayed a selective herbicide on your lawn – that has been specifically designed to tackle lawn weeds and leave the grass alone – then you shouldn’t have anything to worry about.

And Roundup manufactures a product that does just that – Roundup for Lawns. If using this particular weed killer, then grass will grow back, because it hasn’t been damaged in the first place.

However, if you’ve made a glaring error and accidentally sprayed a non-selective herbicide on your lawn, (such as the vast majority of Roundup’s other products), then you should keep reading to find out how to deal with it.

For more specific help, this article on the best weed killers for flower beds will advise you on what to lay down around desirable plants.

And this piece on pre-emergent herbicides is ideal if you need help preventing a weed problem before it’s begun.

Roundup and Grass – What You Need to Know

So, you’ve either chosen the wrong herbicide, or you’ve accidentally sprayed in the wrong place, or maybe you’ve been applying the weed killer during windy weather, and it’s dispersed from its intended location.

Either way, you suspect your lawn has taken a dose of a non-selective herbicide, and you’re panicking that you’ve killed it off.

Your immediate response should be to douse the area with a liberal spray from the hose – as watering the Roundup down will help to reduce its potency, and give your grass a better chance of recovery.

If, however, you were unaware that the herbicide has traveled, your lawn might only start to show signs of “burning,” several hours, or a few days after application.

Yellowing, brown, discolored grass patches begin to appear – a tell-tale sign of herbicide damage.

Why is this happening? It’s time for a brief lesson from grade nine biology.

Non-selective herbicides, such as glyphosate, work by inhibiting a plant’s ability to use photosynthesis – the process in which they use sunlight to help create food from carbon dioxide and water.

Take this ability away, and the plant will start to die.

The green pigment in a plant – chlorophyll – begins to turn color, which is unsightly and often concerning appearance we’re greeted with when looking at grass that has been damaged by chemicals.

But the key question is –  is this damage permanent?

It depends on how extensive it is, how much weed killer has been absorbed, how hot the climate is, and how long the plant has been exposed to the herbicide.

There’s nothing much more you can do at this point but to watch and wait.

The grass could well bounce back in a few days – that attractive green hue will start to return, and the crisis is averted.

But if you still have brown or yellow patches on your lawn for 14 days after application, then it’s going to be bad news, I’m afraid. There’s a strong chance the grass has been killed to the root and is gone for good.

In which case, you should read on to discover the next steps for lawn recovery.

How to Remove Dead Grass After Roundup

The worst-case scenario has occurred, and you have no chance of salvaging sections of your lawn. The deed is done, the grass is dead.

Long live the grass.

The good news is that all is not lost. Follow the steps below, and with a bit of hard work and the right conditions, a thriving, green, healthy lawn will soon return.

First, the dead material needs to be removed in order to establish a blank canvas. There are several ways in which to do this, and the type you choose will depend on the extent of the damage.

You might be able to use some good, old-fashioned elbow grease, get down on your knees and use your hands to strip the layers of dead vegetation away.

For tougher, more extensive spots, a dethatching rake should be implemented. Just be careful not to hack away at any desired, living material.

This article on the best dethatchers should help get you started.

And this article might offer additional help if you’ve discovered some unsightly yellow patches on your lawn.

But if your lawn is a total write-off, and/or the area is simply too large to do by hand, then you might want to look into using a sod cutter to lift the dead material away and start totally from scratch.

Either way, before attempting to regrow areas of dead grass, you should be down to the bare soil before a single seed is sown.

How to Regrow Grass After Roundup

Once the dead grass has been removed, and you’ve exposed the soil, you’re ready to start reestablishing your lawn.

This is where the hard work really begins.

But you actually don’t want to rush in – especially after the damage has been done by initially spraying herbicides.

How long you wait before applying grass seed will depend on the chemical that’s been applied in the first place. Check with the particular product you’ve used.

For the most part, you’re looking at a minimum of three days before new seeds can be applied.

Next, (if you have any lawn left) you should mow the grass down to the lowest setting on your lawnmower. This article on the different types of lawnmowers will help make sure you’re using the right one.

Then, simply follow the advice in the video below, which offers a great visual guide on how to regrow areas of your lawn that have died.

But perhaps one of the most important steps when it comes to growing a healthy lawn, is how best to water it. Too much is just as bad as too little, which is particularly critical when it comes to new growth.

This in-depth article on how to water your lawn should tell you everything you need to know.

Final Thoughts

Here at Yardthyme we always try to promote organic ways to care for your lawn and garden. This article on how to get rid of dandelions naturally is a good example.

This piece on pet-safe weed killers is another.

But we recognize that sometimes a powerful chemical herbicide is the only thing that will do.

That said, always take the greatest of care when choosing this course of action, and only as a last resort if you can help it.

Unfortunately, such potent herbicides are often a necessary evil for achieving the landscape of our dreams. In the end, Mother Nature always wins.

FAQs

Is Roundup safe to use?

Yes and no. It’s a bone of contention in the agricultural community, as there is maybe some evidence to suggest it’s harmful if used in large quantities, and it’s certainly harmful if used improperly.

And there’s no denying it’s not safe for the plants it’s used on.

For residential use, caution is advised – particularly when spraying near desirables, in windy or rainy conditions, and/or if you have children/pets.

If you are genuinely concerned about its usage, you can take a look at this article on the best alternatives to Roundup.

However, at the time of writing, the US Environmental Protection Agency has found no evidence that there is any detriment to human health from the use of glyphosate.

And Bayer, the pharmaceutical company that manufactures this particular brand, has stated that they will be offering weed killer products under the Roundup name that contain alternative ingredients.

How long will Roundup stay in the soil?

Roundup can stay in the soil anywhere from three days to over a year – it just depends on the type of product you’ve used, and how much has been applied.

It can also depend upon the climate and type of soil it’s in.

When in doubt, check directly with the manufacturer of the specific glyphosate-based product you’ve used.

How long after spraying Roundup can you sow grass seed?

Depending on the type of Roundup, it is recommended that you wait a minimum of three days before attempting to sow any new grass seed.

Will Roundup kill Bermuda grass?

Provided you’re using a non-selective version of Roundup, then there’s a strong chance it will kill Bermuda grass.

However, as this plant can be a particular nuisance when it’s not wanted, it’s highly recommended that you take a look at something that specifically targets the golf-course favorite grass.

Can check out this review of the best weed killers for Bermuda grass on the market.

Summary

Will grass grow back after Roundup? It depends on a number of factors, but so long as the plant hasn’t been exposed to too much of the chemical, and it’s given a chance to return, then you might get lucky.

Follow the advice and the steps above, and you won’t go too far wrong. Remember – it might look bleak, but with the right conditions, nature will find a way.

Let me know your lawn and herbicide experience in the comments, stay safe out there, and happy gardening!

Dethatching is essential to ensure a beautiful and healthy lawn. But, for you to achieve that, you need the best dethatcher for the job.

In this article, I have compiled the reviews of some of the top-rated dethatchers on the market.

I have also included a detailed buying guide for an easy selection process. You will also find answers to questions you might have on the use of lawn dethatchers.

TOP 11 Best Dethatchers for 2026

Greenworks 14-inch Corded Dethatcher

If you have a small lawn and looking for a reliable dethatcher, this 14-inch one from Greenworks is an excellent choice. It is not only compact for easy handling but also effective in removing thatch from your lawn.

The dethatcher features a 14-inch dethatching path, which is adequate for small lawns. It is paired with a powerful 10amp motor for consistent performance when dethatching. The best thing is that it has three-position adjustment levels allowing you to customize its functions to your lawn requirements.

Pros

Cons

Groundskeeper The II Rake

Is it possible to be in love with a garden rake? I never thought so until I met the Groundskeeper II, and now I’m considering leaving my wife.

I bought this one specifically for dethatching, and boy does it deliver. Made with a sturdy fiberglass handle that’s 55-inches long, its construction and design help prevent fatigue – no matter the job.

It’s lightweight, yet tough and durable, and I’ve been amazed at what it can rake up around the garden.

The tines keep their shape but offer excellent flexibility, and if you do manage to break one – it can easily be replaced.

Probably the best dethatching rake on the market – and yet so much more versatile besides – this thing needs to be in your shed.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Tine Tow Dethatcher 45-0294

Agri-Fab is known for its incredible gardening tools, and this dethatcher is no exception. It is designed to dethatch a large lawn without having to go over and over again one specific area. On this note, it comes with twenty durable spring tines that remove thatch from the base up.

The tines penetrate and turn up dried grass and weeds in 40-inch swatches. This path is significantly wide, making this dethatcher the best lawn dethatcher for a large lawn. The best part is that the spring tines are replaceable.

Pros

Cons

Brinly DT-48BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher

I understand that not all dethatchers fit all mowers, so I had to include this one for larger mowers. The Brinly DT-48BH has a 48-inch working width, which works well for a more extensive lawn.

It is fitted with flexing spring steel tines designed to comb through the lawn and lift thatch up and out of the yard. When it comes to the quality of this dethatcher, I find it one of the best on the list. It comes in all steel construction to withstand regular use without deteriorating in quality.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0295 Tow Dethatcher

If you are trying to find the best tow behind dethatcher for a large lawn, this Agri-Fab model should be top of your list. It comes with a 48-inch dethatching path that can help you dethatch a large area in a short time.

What’s more? It features a durable, heavy-duty steel deck and welded drawbar. This can last long while ensuring the utmost functionality of the dethatcher. For easy operation, the dethatcher has a cantilever transport handle, making it easy to raise and lower.

Pros

Cons

Brinly DT-40BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher

Another gem from Brinly, this model is ideal if you are looking for a balance between size and effectiveness. It comes with a 40-inch dethatching path, which is relatively functional for any size of the lawn. On this note, it works best with lawnmowers for small yards.

Does it hold up, though?

Quality is an essential factor to consider, and this dethatcher ticks all the boxes right. It is an all-steel model and fitted with a heavy-duty tray to hold up to 70lbs of additional weight. The tines are made from heavy-duty spring steel. You can catch the tines with the safety rod and prevent contact with mower blades and maintain quality.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman CMXGZBF7124315 Tow Dethatcher

Finding a dethatcher on a budget is not the easiest task. This is why I included this model from Craftsman. It comes at a relatively affordable price range and is designed to suit the different types of tractors. The universal hitch makes it compatible with most mowers too.

The dethatcher features automatic raking action and has a weight tray that holds up to 70pounds. With the cantilever transport handle, you can easily raise and lower for convenience. Additionally, it has 20 heat-treated tines that last long despite regular use.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0457 SmartLink Dethatcher

If you have the SmartLink Master Platform and looking for a compatible dethatcher, this Agri-Fab model is the best. It is specifically designed for that and works well at picking up thatch. The best thing is that it attaches in seconds, and you do not need any tools for assembly.

The thing I love most about this dethatcher is how little space it takes. With many tools in your garage, you need a space-saving model like this one. And, it does not take away from how functional it is when it comes to dethatching.

Pros

Cons

Earthwise DT71613 Corded Electric Dethatcher

If you are trying to find the best electric dethatcher, this one from Earthwise can be a great choice. It comes with a 13-amp motor with a bail wire switch for safe and easy starting. It is powerful and energy-efficient like that of a gas garden tiller.

The lawn dethatcher comes with a 16-inch working width hence suitable for a small garden. It is also fitted with a debris catcher that has a capacity of 4 gallons. I love that this dethatcher is eco-friendly, therefore a great choice if you are looking for a fume-free option.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0343 Dethatcher

I love that I can buy attachments to use with other tools instead of investing in an independent tool for a single job. This is why I had to include this dethatcher for lawn sweepers. If you are looking for one, this model from Agri-Fab is a perfect choice.

Like other Agri-Fab dethatchers, this one is built to fit most mowers, lawn sweepers, and tractors. It comes with a simple attachment hook to fit quickly on to your lawn sweeper. With the 14 heat-treated spring tines, the dethatcher does a good job picking up thatch and weeds.

Pros

Cons

VonHaus 2-in-1 Corded Electric Dethatcher

If you are searching for a dethatcher but could still make use of an aerator, I recommend this 2-in-1 model from Von Haus. It comes with separate dethatcher and aerator drums so you can use it for either task.

It runs on a 12.5 amp motor to lift organic debris from the lawn. What’s more? It features a 15-inch working width, which works great for small and medium. The good thing is that it features a thermal cut out and a 2-stage safety start to ensure you are safe.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Dethatcher for Your Lawn

Investing in a lawn dethatcher can place a dent in your account. This is why it is vital to keep some factors in mind before you acquire one. That way, you get the best value for your money by choosing a model that meets your needs. Here are the essential things to consider.

The Type of Dethatcher

Dethatchers come in two major types; electric and manual.

Electric

Electric dethatchers are generally lightweight and easy to use. Most brands on the market have push models. These work well for a small lawn where you can push it forward and back to dethatch.

Electric dethatchers are highly rated because they do not emit fumes, unlike gas-powered lawn power tools do. They run on motors, and with an accessible power source, electric models work well. Therefore, you should consider the type of motor it has.

The power of the motor varies from one model to the other and highly affects how well the dethatcher will work. Most models range between 8 to 15 amps motors, which do well in general.

You may be geared towards choosing a high power motor, say the 15 amp one. But in the world of motors, the power of the motor is not a significant consideration. You want to find one with a balance between power and effectiveness. No one wants a muscular dethatcher roaming around the lawn, making all the noise and potentially damaging your grass.

You would rather find one with lower power but one that maneuvers easily and is comfortable to handle. A 12 amp one can be a great choice; it provides adequate power but is still friendly on the surface of your lawn.

Lastly, when choosing electric dethatchers, consider the length of the cord. Most of the models available come with short cords but allow the use of an extension cord to cover a larger area. You can extend the cable up to 200 feet long but, you need to be careful while at it.

Why?

The Ohms law indicates that the voltage is equal to current plus resistance. On this note, the resistance in wires increases over long distances. Therefore, if you use an overly longer cord, the power of the dethatcher might not be the best.

A tip to solve this would be to increase the width of the cord. That will balance the length of the cord and the width to maintain the power consistency.

Manual

Manual dethatchers are designed to attach to other lawn maintenance tools such as zero-turn mowers, regular lawn mowers, and tractors. They come fitted with steel tines that reach down into the lawn to pull thatch and weeds. The best thing about having a manual dethatcher is that you can attach it to your mower and handle both tasks at a go.

This can be time-saving, and you do not have to worry about using two or more tools for the job. The only problem is that manual dethatchers only work well if you have a sit-down mower or sweeper. Otherwise, you would need to mow first then use a push dethatcher to clear.

Collection Bag

Most models of dethatchers, both electric and manual, come with a collection bag. Note that if yours does not come with one, you will likely spend more time raking up thatch after. Most people assume that a collection bag is unnecessary, but it saves so much time and effort during and after dethatching.

If a dethatcher does not have a collection bag, it pulls thatch from the lawn and dumps it right on the surface. This will then require you to use a rake or a lawn sweeper to collect the mess. But, if you enjoy raking, then a collection bag should not be a concern.

Tines

The power of the motor gets all the credit for the job done, but in essence, the tines do all the dirty work. Tines are metal fingers that reach down into the lawn to grab and hold on the thatch `

Most models have steel tines, but the quality varies from one model to the other. Ideally, the best tines should be made of high-quality steel with a rust-proof finish to withstand use in any conditions. It is important to understand that the wider the dethatcher, the more tines it should have.

Attachment/ Assembly

The design of the dethatcher you choose should be simple and easy to figure out. If you are conversant with assembling power tools, particularly gardening tools, you should be able to put together a dethatcher easily.

This factor comes across differently from one person to another, but I believe it is essential. No one wants to get stuck, putting together a dethatcher for hours. Before you buy, make sure the package comes with all the parts and necessary accessories. This will save you valuable money and effort, making the process even easier.

Also, pay attention to the type of attachment hook the dethatcher has. Some models are compatible with all tractors, mowers, and other tools, while others are designed for specific ones. If you do not understand the different attachments available, go for models that come with a universal hitch attachment.

Adjustable Height

Usually, dethatchers allow height adjustments to suit specific areas of your lawn when dethatching. But, the height levels vary from one design to the other. Most have three-position adjustment levels, and they work pretty well. But, there are few models with up to 5 adjustment points.

The height adjustment feature is crucial as it allows you to customize how deep the tines can get. For example, if you have longer grass in one area than another, you can adjust the height to ensure the tines reach the base of the long grass. You can then switch it back to the original position or change the height to suit a specific area.

Dethatcher Width

Dethatchers come with a different width to suit various sizes of lawns. The larger the width, the more surface the dethatcher will cover with one swatch. For example, if you get a 48-inch dethatcher, that means it will dethatch 48-inches wide in one path.

The width is not a significant concern, but if you are looking to save time dethatching your large lawn, you need to consider it. If you have a smaller, narrow yard with corners, a smaller width would be most appropriate.

FAQ

Is a dethatcher worth it?

The answer to whether dethatching is worth it or not depends on your overall goal for your lawn. If you are chasing the aesthetic and beauty of a green lawn, then you might need to dethatch every few months. But, if you are chasing the health of your yard, then leaving about ½-inch of thatch is beneficial to your lawn.

A thin layer of thatch can act as mulch and protect your lawn from soil temperature fluctuations. Also, it allows water, nutrients, and air to penetrate and can help retain soil moisture. But, if you notice a thick layer of thatch on the surface of the lawn, then it is time to dethatch.

Should you dethatch your yard every year?

It is advisable to dethatch your lawn at least once a year. Ideally, you should dethatch your yard if the thatch grows to more than ½-inch from the soil surface. You can use your fingers to check how thick the thatch is to evaluate if dethatching is necessary.

Is it better to dethatch in the spring or fall?

You should dethatch your lawn when it is actively growing as this is the time thatch tends to pile up. The best time to do this is the same as aerating, which is around early fall or early spring if you have cool-season grasses. If you have warm-season grasses, then late spring towards early summer is the best time to dethatch.

Should I aerate or dethatch my lawn?

It is best to dethatch your lawn first before you aerate the lawn. This helps to loosen the thatch and remove excess debris, which affects proper root development. Both practices are essential for the health of the lawn and should be done together.

For more on this, read our article on aerating vs dethatching.

Should I mow before dethatching?

You can mow before dethatching is you have long grass that you are to cut anyway. But, if your grass is of a desirable height, it is best to mow after dethatching. This ensures you have a uniform layer of grass after removing thatch. However, you have to be careful when mowing after dethatching.

A tip is to use the lowest mow settings just to level the surface.

Can you mow after dethatching?

Yes, you can mow after dethatching. This will ensure you achieve a leveled lawn surface. You also take care of overgrown parts of your lawn and clear any left-over thatch in the process. However, it is not always a requirement to mow after dethatching, especially if the grass is not long enough to cut.

Will dethatching remove weeds?

Dethatching can remove weeds; however, it is not the best practice to take care of weeds in your lawn. If you have weeds and tough grass such as Bermuda grass, you can first use a weed killer designed for Bermuda grass before dethatching. That way, you attack the problem from the source rather than fixing it temporarily.

If you have pets with access to your lawn, get pet safe weed killers for safety.

Should I fertilize after dethatching?

It is best to wait for a while before you can apply fertilizer after dethatching. This allows your lawn to green up and take shape. If you fertilize your lawn while the grass is in a dormant stage, you encourage weeds to grow and compete with the grass.

Should you water after dethatching?

Yes, you should water the lawn after dethatching. This will help the grass recover fast and prevent excessive drying. Be careful not to overwater as this would feed sprouting weeds that would eventually compete with the grass for nutrients.

Summary

A lawn dethatcher can come in handy to help you maintain your lawn in the best conditions. With the considerations above, you can bag a high-quality, effective dethatcher for your specific needs.

I love all the options above, but my favorite remains the Brinly DT-48BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher. It has high-quality components to last long while providing quality results each time. It is wide enough to work well for large lawns, and the strong tines pick up thatch well.

Green and healthy grass can seem like a dream out of reach for most gardeners and trust me, I’ve been there: you’re sick to death of those sneaky weeds that infiltrate your garden, popping up to say “hello” at the worst of times!

Before treating these bad boys, you need to be able to identify them as you need to find the right weedkiller – or organic method – that can tackle the job once and for all!

But how do we identify them, I hear you ask?

And how do we get rid of them?

Worry not my friends, because if you read on, you’ll find the most common lawn weeds that you probably find in your garden as well as how to treat them!

What are Weeds?

People don’t like to admit they have a weed problem in their garden, I know I don’t but the first step to combatting this issue is by admitting it and identifying them.

So, what is are weeds then?

There are three key terms used to identify the behavior and type of weed, these include the generic term: Common Weed, as well as other, more specific terms, Noxious Weed, and Invasive Weed.

Common Weed: “A wild plant growing where it is not wanted and in competition with cultivated plants.”

The keyword I take from that definition is “competition”.

Weeds are unwanted and pesky, and they can drain the life out of your other wanted plants, causing them to be a massive issue in the health and longevity of your garden!

Noxious Weed: “A weed that has been designated by an agricultural or other governing authority as a plant that is injurious to agricultural or horticultural crops, natural habitats or ecosystems, or humans or livestock.”

Invasive Weed: “An alien species of plant that shows a tendency to spread out of control. The label “invasive” is generally reserved for plants that have been introduced from other regions and spread like wildfire in their new habitats.”

What Causes Weeds?

Weeds are opportunists, they grow when the conditions are right such as in moist or dry turf, and varying temperature levels. Many weeds are the product of poor lawn care and can thrive on this negligence.

When your garden is suffering from lawn disease, this causes dry and thin turf areas in which the weeds can take advantage of, if you want to prevent weeds you need to prevent lawn disease and there are many types that can affect the health of your grass.

Lawn disease is a factor that can create dry grass; however, weeds can also grow in the moist and warm grass, especially in those which have been overwatered creating a fungus and moss infliction.

Moss is desirable in the right setting; it is definitely not desirable on your lawn which can attract certain weeds as well as spread itself – not ideal!

You can easily get rid of moss in your lawn naturally with the right methods that will preserve the health of your grass.

Most Common Lawn Weeds in the USA

There are many species of weeds that can be found globally, however, for the purpose of this blog, I will be talking about the most common weeds that can be found in the USA.

These most popular weed species can be categorized into noxious weeds or invasive weeds, and common weeds.

Noxious Weeds

Noxious weeds are destructive and can pose a risk in your garden. These weeds are remarkably hard to get rid of when using regular weed killing methods.

These weeds, as stated above, can be injurious to agriculture, so imagine how they can impact your regular garden!

Field Bindweed

Field bindweed is a perennial vine that dies down only once a year and can be found throughout the US except for the most southern regions. It has many names allocated such as wild-morning glory; not to be confused with the ornamental ‘morning glory’ which is an annual plant.

Originating from Eurasia, field bindweed is of the hardiest and difficult to combat weeds. It can spread from roots as well as from seeds. These weeds’ roots are found to reach depths of 14 feet!

A single field bindweed plant can spread its roots more than 10 feet in a single growing season!

The leaves of this plant can be identified by their spiral arrangement and arrowhead shape. The flowers are a deep trumpet shape with colors of white and pale pink. These flowers blossom in the mid-to-late summer and produce fruits with two seeds in each, these seeds can be eaten by birds or can lay dormant in the soil for decades.

The feature that causes this weed to be considered ‘noxious’ is the way in which it spreads and survives.

The deep roots make it hard to kill completely meaning whilst on surface-level weed killer might do the job, the roots far extension means it can survive as well as reproduce in a matter of time!

Moreover, above ground level, the stems of this plant can twist around the stems of other plants, climbing in a counterclockwise direction. This can suffocate your beloved plants as it is essentially choking them!

How to Prevent and Kill Field Bindweed

This notorious weed is unfortunately fearless to many tilling and cultivation methods as this can sometimes cause it to spread even further! Leaving even an inch of the root can mean it will most likely resprout and surprise you next season.

On top of this, field bindweed is drought-resistant, and once established, commercial weed killers are not enough to get rid of these weeds.

The best way in which you can stop these plants is through early prevention.

Many weeds are tackled through this method and are known to be very effective if started at the right time. This method is very reliant on proper lawn care such as watering and using the right tools.

In partnership with this, you’ll need to extract the seedlings when they’re about 3-4 weeks old, as soon after that the buds start to form and it’s pretty much downhill from there.

A long-term prevention method that you can use is light exclusion.

Bindweed grows well in mulches through the loose gaps; therefore, you need to close these gaps by placing a landscaping fabric over the top of the soil and then apply mulch on top.

After around three years, this light exclusion method will be the most effective way of getting rid of bindweed but be aware that the roots and seeds can lay dormant for decades, so you’ll need to keep an eye out for early sprouts!

Ragweed

Ragweed is known to be the cause of hay fever during springtime. This noxious weed can be found in every state of America except Alaska and has even been introduced to Hawaii, however, the main environment where ragweed truly thrives is in the Midwest and Northeast regions.

This weed has an abundance of different variants and all of which are super annoying! These variants can grow in fields and even between cracks of pavement.

Ragweed season peaks in mid-September, however, the plants start pollinating as early as July. Every single plant during pollination can produce over one billion pollen grains causing some major hay fever as well as worsen asthma in the spring.

The behavior of this plant is what makes it noxious, its roots are called taproots and are extremely strong and hardy; if any of these roots are left behind in the soil it poses a risk of resprouting.

Alongside this, the seeds offer the biggest risk as they can spread like wildfire and can travel through bodies of water as well as wind.

This weed can be distinguished by its leaf shape with its spear-shaped blades that protrude outwardly into lobes. The flowers of this weed are stamens with white and purple florets. These florets contain seeds and are wind-pollinated.

How to Prevent Ragweed

Once spotted, ragweed can be killed with a broadleaf weed killer or other general commercial weed killers. For this to be effective, it needs to be done when the seedlings are young, and the roots aren’t established enough as that will cause the response to the weed killer to be better.

Another progressive preventative method is by mowing your lawn regularly. Mowing will aid against the ragweed sprouting flowers and spreading seeds.

If you want a more natural approach to killing weeds, ragweed is one of the more responsive to this method than other noxious weeds. Again, this needs to be done as early as possible to prevent further spread. These natural methods include using vinegar as well as boiling water.

Quack Grass

Quack grass is a creeping perennial weed that resembles closely to ryegrass and crabgrass, however, can be easily noticed through its thick stem and taller blades.

The areas in which this weed is most common include the northern portion of America and is extremely prominent in Ohio. It thrives mostly in crop fields, gardens, and roadsides.

This weed forms a heavy and matted formation that allows roots to spread and cultivate further, causing this plant to be considered invasive and noxious.

How to Kill and Prevent Quack Grass

Quack grass can be killed using a non-selective herbicide with the active ingredient being Glyphosate. This, however, can also kill traditional garden grass as well as ornamental plants so take care to only place it directly on the quack grass.

If you want pet-safe weed killers for your garden and weed problems, be sure to visit that post for more information!

Another way in which you can prevent and kill quack grass is by pulling it at the roots. You need to ensure that you do this effectively and with the right method so you don’t leave any of the roots leftover that could cause regrowth!

If you do use this method, you need to dispose of the plant in a waste bin as if you put it on a compost heap it can re-root and grow there.

Dandelion

Aaah the common dandelion.

This weed is dreaded in all gardens due to its deep taproot that extends over 15 feet! The puffball seed-head means that with and a gust of wind, the seeds will blow and germinate in any garden it lands in.

Dandelions grow in all areas of America; they don’t discriminate as they can thrive in pretty much all settings.

How to Prevent and Kill Dandelions

The most effective way to prevent dandelions from future sprouting is proper lawn care. Dandelions grow in loose and unrooted grass areas; many people experience dandelions growing in newly laid grass that has a weak root system.

To prevent this, you need to create a dense and healthy lawn through regular watering and mowing, as well as reseeding dry areas. This will be a long-term preventative method that you can use to extend the health of your lawn!

Aside from long-term methods, you can use weedkillers that are most suited for deep root extermination.

For more ways that you can use to get rid of dandelions, read my article here!

Pigweed

Pretty much every farmer in North America has had their struggle with pigweed. It wins the title as one of THE most troublesome common weed types that can affect basically any garden.

This weed thrives in summer and can be an exhausting issue throughout all of America – as well as globally! The pigweed name is actually a term that has several species attached, and all of which are a pain to get rid of.

These weeds love the summer heat. They emerge after spring and wreak havoc all summer in many gardens and crop fields, only to die in fall.

They can be distinguished by their leaf shape being broad and rounded with a pointed tip. Their flowers are similar to that of ragweed and carry seeds within their flowers.

How to Kill and Prevent Pigweed

Word of advice when dealing with this plant: pull it out before it flowers!

Another method that is tried and true in preventing the spread of pigweed is by applying a layer of winter mulch to your garden. The seeds of this weed need sunlight to germinate, so by covering this weed with mulch you are starving it of the nutrients it requires!

Purslane

Whilst purslane is considered noxious in one US state, it is actually a more common weed.

This weed can be identified through its succulent nature with rounded green and red leaves.

Why is this plant such a headache?

This plant is an issue due to its high spreadable nature for each plant can produce 2 million seeds!

Once these seeds have spread, this plant can flourish and grow in pretty much all environments. Aside from this, purslane can also grow through its leaves spreading the growth even further.

Purslane, due to its succulent-type behavior can survive in dry conditions, however, prefers moist soil and warm weather.

How to Prevent and Kill Purslane

Purslane can be eradicated through simple weed pulling. Unfortunately, purslane is most responsive to preventative measures rather than herbicide.

This plant can live in your soil for long periods of time and little seedlings can pop up unexpectedly, so the minute you see one pull it out ASAP!

Regular mulching and aeration of the soil will also prevent this weed from growing as it makes it hard to establish a deep root system. Using synthetic mulches will also help to filter out light, hence draining the plant of its nutrient source.

Summary

Weeds are a common issue that so many people face and can drive you to the brink of crazy – I’ve been there.

Now that you know the most common weeds, noxious and common, and how to identify them, you’ll be able to protect your garden from their future invasion!

Whilst they can be unavoidable, weeds are can be contained, so let me know in the comments if you’ve had any success with tackling your garden weed problem, and feel free to share this article with anyone suffering too!

One thing is clear – as there are many types of diseases and weeds, there are also a lot of weed killer types and disease treatments available.

Fighting more than just weeds in your lawn and old stumps are in the way to the perfect lawn? We have reviewed some of the best stump killers that will help you with this problem.

So, it’s understandable that keeping them out of your garden is preferable.

Unfortunately, snails are often unfairly lumped in with slugs and seen as something that should be eradicated. In reality, the damage they cause is usually fairly minimal.

But do they provide any benefits? Should we be rethinking how we see these little critters?

Read on to find out!

Benefits of Snails in the Garden

The primary benefits of snails in the garden, center around the fact that they are part of the natural ecosystem and have a role to play in keeping everything in balance.

Us humans are pretty arrogant when it comes to deciding what should be allowed to live, and what should be designated a pest and eradicated.

Often our efforts to ‘control’ one species, leads to an imbalance in the numbers of other species. This chain reaction can result in other animals becoming labeled as pests while others become threatened.

The best policy is always to try and support the natural balance of the environment and its ecosystems. And snails are a natural part of that ecosystem.

Benefits of Snails in the Garden Include:

Though they’re definitely less attractive and more damaging, slugs also play a role in the ecosystem. The benefits of slugs in the garden are actually very similar to snails.

They provide a food source for many animals higher up the food chain and they help to decompose decaying organic matter, creating fertilizer.

But, unlike slugs, snails don’t actually cause much damage.

The benefits may not blow you away, but snails are certainly not a cause for concern the way slugs might be, and there should be no reason to control their numbers unless something is very wrong in the balance of your garden’s ecosystem.

So, let’s talk about how to support that balance.

Supporting the Natural Balance of Your Garden

In the world of permaculture, there is no such thing as ‘too many slugs’, just ‘not enough ducks’ to eat them.

While keeping ducks in your garden as a means of slug and snail control is likely not a viable option, this sentiment highlights the fact that an abundance of slugs and snails represents an imbalance in your garden ecosystem.

Ironically, this imbalance could, in part, be caused by pest management strategies such as slug pellets which are also fatal to the very animals who feed on slugs and snails and would otherwise be helping to keep their numbers down.

Interestingly, the presence of snails may be seen differently in different places. In some parts of the world, for example, Germany, you can mail order certain species of snails to deliberately introduce into your garden for the benefits they bring.

So, What Can You Do to Keep the Peace?

Encourage Predatory Animals to Your Garden

This is a surefire way of keeping slugs and snails in check.

Building a small wildlife pond and putting out bird feeders are ways of doing this that help to support these animals when conditions are tough in the winter as well.

Keep Things Tidy, but Not Too Tidy

f you’re of the opinion that a well-maintained garden looks like you’ve gone over the lawn with a vacuum cleaner, you might be in for some trouble.

Fallen leaves break down to feed the soil as well as snails (meaning less work for you as you won’t need to fertilize!). A little bit of debris also creates homes for wildlife such as snails, insects, and the predatory animals that will eat said snails and insects.

Having a garden that is too perfectly manicured means there are limited places for animals to form their homes and find food sources.

On the other hand, a completely overgrown garden will provide ample places to call home and find food so may not be the best option if you’re trying to limit slug and snail numbers. So again, it comes down to balance.

Keep Things Light, Airy and Not Too Wet

Snails love dark and wet. As with the above point, you want to keep some snail-friendly habitat, but you can easily avoid their numbers growing if you keep your garden from getting too soggy.

Using drip feed irrigation rather than a sprinkler might help to target water where you want it without wetting a large area of foliage (which snails would prefer). Using a soaker hose is the best way of doing this.

Practice Companion Planting

Snails have a preference for some plants (lettuces, brassicas, cabbages, dahlias, hostas and marigolds) while disliking others (lavender, rosemary, hydrangeas, geraniums). Planting things that snails don’t like next to the things that they do can help prevent them from getting too excited.

There are also natural methods that you can use to discourage snails from vulnerable plants and avoid having to use toxic slug pellets.

Handpick After Dark

Snails are nocturnal, so going outside with your torch after dark and hand removing any snails that you find is the most favored management technique by many experienced gardeners.

You’ll probably want to wear garden gloves, especially if you’re going after slugs at the same time. Just be sure to toss them more than 40m away to overcome their homing instinct!

(If you’re not sure where to toss them, you could always add them to your compost heap – they’ll help with the decomposing and there’ll be plenty there to eat. If you don’t have a compost yet, have a read of this guide to the best compost tumblers to get started.)

Create a Barrier

Things like coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, diatomaceous earth, and ash can help to deter snails from a certain area as they’ll find it hard to slither over that surface.

Keeping plants that are popular with snails in raised beds or large plant pots is also a good option as it’s further for them to travel and easier to catch them in the act.

Set Up a Beer Trap

Snails and slugs love the smell of beer so setting up a beer trap is a great way to lure them away from your precious plants. Set a dish of beer in the soil, deep enough that once they fall in, they’ll drown.

Slug Pellets as a Last Resort

Slug pellets should only be an absolute last resort, if you have a serious, serious infestation, which, let’s face it, is unlikely. If you just don’t like the look of a few snails in your garden, then create an environment that doesn’t attract them rather than resorting to toxic pesticides.

The main ingredient in conventional slug pellets, Metaldehyde, is currently being banned in the UK due to the harmful impact it has on wildlife. Metaldehyde has also been found in drinking water supplies. If you absolutely have to use slug pellets, look for versions that don’t contain Metaldehyde and that list themselves as safe for pets.

Just getting into gardening? Top Tip: One of the most useful but surprising items that you could set yourself up with is a garden kneeler. Save your knees and garden in comfort!

Summary

So, are snails good for the garden?

While the benefits listed don’t translate directly into benefits that you’ll see in terms of flourishing plants, in this day and age, with so many natural balances drastically upset by humans, keeping a bit more of a balance in your garden by allowing snails to cohabitate in reasonable numbers can only be a good thing.

So, I’m going to say yes. Snails are good for your garden. They have their place in the ecosystem, and removing them will definitely cause more harm than good.

What’s your experience?

And you certainly need to make sure you have the right tools and equipment for the job.

When you need to feed, seed, and weed, doing it by hand is going g to be a mammoth task.

That’s why we’re taking a look at the best tow behind spreaders for your lawn, so you can get the job done in no time, and let nature take care of the rest.

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow.

What is a Tow Behind Spreader?

A tow-behind spreader is a device that is used to distribute seeds and other products from a wheeled container that you attach to the back of a garden vehicle.

Most commonly made from a rugged poly material, they come in various sizes and weight capacities depending on the area you need to cover.

They are available in two distinct types – broadcast and drop. Keep reading for the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Tow Spreader Uses

Aside from the ability to spread seeds, tow-behind spreaders are actually a little more versatile than that.

They can also be used for distributing fertilizer or lawn feed, as well as granulated pesticides and herbicides.

This is often a preferred method of laying down such products, as granular weed and insect control tends to be less harsh than spray or liquid chemicals.

But if you are looking for a spray version, check out this article on the best tow-behind sprayers instead.

In the winter, spreaders can also be used to put down ice melt or salts, but care should be taken when and where you apply both – and only if it’s really necessary.

The 9 Best Tow Behind Spreaders 2026

Agri-Fab 45-0463 Tow Behind Broadcast Spreader

Based out of Illinois, Agri-Fab manufactures some excellent lawn and garden-maintenance tools and equipment, including some quality dump carts – and you can follow that link for more.

This is a highly-rated tow-behind broadcast spreader that has a 130 lbs weight capacity, which is ideal for larger areas and ensures you won’t need to be stopping all the time to fill it up. A universal hitch allows you to hook it up to just about any lawn vehicle, while the large, rugged, pneumatic tires can handle rough, uneven terrain.

The gearbox is enclosed to prevent damage and corrosion and promote long life, and an on/off rod is accessible from your driving position for precise, smooth control while you’re on the go.

Pros

Cons

Brinly-Hardy Tow-Behind Aerator-Spreader

Homedepot.com

Founded back in 1839, Brinly-Hardy has been manufacturing top-quality lawn-care products for well over a century, so they know a thing or two about broadcast seed spreaders.

This is a heavy-duty, versatile piece of equipment, given the fact that it’s actually a combination aerator and spreader. Use it to aerate your lawn before overseeding, so you have one tool that does two important lawn-care jobs.

The durable steel hopper has a 100 lbs weight capacity, and the calibrated flow control allows you to set the drop spread pattern in order to prevent unnecessary waste.

A transport lever raises the durable, rust-resistant steel tines for driving over walkways, and the 18-gauge steel construction reduces flexing and twisting when fully loaded.

Pros

Cons

Chapin 8620B Tow Behind Spreader

For those really large seeding or fertilizing spreading jobs, this Chapin product has one of the highest capacities in this review. Capable of holding up to 150 lbs worth of product, it features an auto-stop dual impeller that will stop spreading when not in motion – which is handy for reducing waste.

14-inch pneumatic tires can tackle just about any terrain, and the heavy-duty gearbox has been treated with oil and bronze bearings to improve performance and long life. The steel frame is solid and durable, while the trailer-hitch has been designed to be compatible with most lawn tractors.

And speaking of, why not take a look at this article on the best riding lawnmowers for rough terrain for something that will go hand-in-hand with the Chapin?

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Tow Behind Spreader

Homedepot.com

Here we have another Agri-Fab entry, this time a more compact version that’s capable of a maximum 85 lbs product capacity.

Made with heavy-duty polyethylene, the hopper is rust and corrosion-proof and can distribute its contents up to 10 feet away with a continuous flow that eliminates streaks.

Featuring an enclosed gearbox to prevent wear and tear, the tubular steel frame is tough and durable, with a flow control within reach, so you can manage just how much product you’re dispensing while driving your vehicle.

The easy-to-set controls also allow you to apply just the right amount of product to your lawn – whether it be seeds, fertilizer, or anything else you need.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel Drop Spreader

Homedepot.com

Ohio Steel was always going to have a product in this review, given the quality of their lawn and garden care output. This is a drop spreader, which makes it ideal for fine-tuning your product spread and not overstepping the mark.

The 36-inch, 20-gauge-steel hopper has a generous 100 lbs weight capacity and offers a precise distribution pattern between the wheels. The tires themselves are 12-inches in diameter and are of the “never flat” design, so they’ll never need filling up.

It fits all models of lawn vehicles with a rear pin hitch receiver, including some of these awesome commercial zero-turn mowers for the very best in large lawn maintenance and care.

Pros

Cons

Brinly BS36BH Tow-Behind Broadcast Spreader

One of the largest spreaders on the market, this giant offering from Brinly is also one of the most popular and highly rated. Offering an enormous 175 lbs capacity, you’ve got three and a half cubic feet of product at your disposal if you so choose.

And it’s solidly built, too, with a heavy-duty poly hopper, stainless steel hardware, spinner shaft and agitator. The one-piece tubular steel frame is as durable as they come, and the gearbox is fully enclosed to keep it operating at peak performance.

Large, 13-inch pneumatic tires have a grippy lug to handle all kinds of terrain, and the patented directional spread offers accurate control for product distribution.

Pros

Cons

John Deere Tow-Behind Broadcast Spreader

Homedepot.com

Outdoor power equipment specialists John Deere were not going to be outdone in this category, and this is their version of a 175 lbs tow-behind broadcast spreader.

Like the Brinly, it offers a 3.5 cubic feet capacity, inside a durable polyethylene hopper that is impervious to rust. Finished in the John Deere iconic green livery, it has a handy auto-flow function that stops spreading product when you stop, and the gearbox is enclosed to protect the inner workings and ensure a long life at peak performance.

Capable of a maximum spread of 12 feet, you’ll cover more ground and get the job done in no time with this option from the Illinois-based agriculture stalwarts.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Poly Pro Tow Drop Spreader

Homedepot.com

Designed for professional landscapers, this large drop spreader from Agri-Fab offers a 42-inch hopper that’s capable of carrying 175 lbs worth of product.

Cover as much as one acre with ease, with a universal hitch that is compatible with most brands of lawn tractor – as well as zero-turns. The heavy-duty poll hopper is rust-proof and won’t dent, while the galvanized steel agitator is also corrosion-resistant and easy-to-clean for longevity and peak performance.

The large, pneumatic tires provide a smooth transport solution, ensuring you can drive all over your property with an accurate product distribution.

Pros

Cons

Buyers Products UTV All Purpose Spreader

Something a little different to finish with now as I’ve decided to include this all-purpose spreader for use with UTVs. Technically not a “tow-behind” but more a “carry-behind,” it attaches to the back of your vehicle with the included receiver mount hardware.

It can carry up to 150 lbs worth of product and is capable of a spread width of 30 feet – which is pretty impressive when you think about the design.

Made from heavy-duty poly and steel, it’s also the only spreader to feature a built-in 12 Volt motor that powers the electric spinner. This is a great option for achieving a super-fast spread – providing you have the compatible machine to actually carry it.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Tow Behind Spreader

Below, you’ll find a few handy hints on what to look for when you’re in the market for a tow-behind spreader.

An FAQ section follows in case we’ve missed anything.

Do You Need a Tow-Behind Spreader?

Before firing in and purchasing a tow-behind spreader, it’s a good idea to figure out if you actually need one first.

Perhaps you can get away with using a push spreader.

Maybe simply looking to spot-treat a few small areas, and a handheld spreader will suffice?

As a rule of thumb, if you’re looking to cover more than half an acre with seed, fertilizer, or anything else, then a tow-behind spreader is likely your best bet.

And don’t forget – you need to have the right kind of vehicle to pull it.

Type of Spreader

There are commonly two types of tow-behind spreaders, and you’ll need to decide which one is right for you.

Broadcast spreaders are designed with an impeller that rotates as you move along. Depending on the spreader, you can set this to different increments to dispense more or less product over a wider range.

Some broadcast spreaders might even have an auto-stop feature, which means that it will only cast the product if you’re in motion.

This can seriously reduce waste as well as prevent lawn burning with fertilizers.

Broadcast spreaders are ideal for covering larger areas where you’re not too concerned about where the seeds or fertilizer actually ends up. You’re looking for a random distribution over an extensive space.

However, broadcast spreaders can be notorious for simply flinging products everywhere – including places you don’t want it to go.

Even with certain technology for guarding edges, this can cause problems if you’re trying to be accurate, and you can finish with a wasted product – particularly on walk and driveways.

On the other hand, drop spreaders are so-called because they simply drop the product straight down as they pass. There’s no spinning impeller, and so you get a more precise distribution.

Drop spreaders are useful for when you only want seed or fertilizer to go in a certain location – such as along borders, edges, or plot lines.

The last thing you want is grass growing in the garden beds – or anywhere else it’s not required. And you certainly don’t want to throw any product into a neighbor’s property.

The downside to drop spreaders is they can create lines of the product along with your lawn, so you need to be careful when making each pass.

And they’re not as good as broadcast spreaders for covering wider areas and are more restrictive when it comes to distribution rates.

Lawn/Garden Size

It’s not rocket science – the larger the area you need to cover, the bigger the hopper will need to be in your tow-behind spreader.

Of course, you’re more than welcome to use a smaller model if you’re looking to save a bit of money, but you’re certainly not going to save any time by constantly needing to stop and start to fill it up.

Here’s a rough guide to what you should be looking out for when it comes to spreader size:

For around 1/4-acre, an 85 lbs capacity spreader should suffice.

For 1/2-acre, a 100-130 lbs spreader should do.

And for one acre and over, look for spreaders that provide over 150 lbs worth of product capacity. The sweet spot being 175 lbs.

As well as the weight capacity, some spreaders also include how much product you can fill them with when it comes to cubic feet.

Sometimes, it’s more about space and less about weight.

Top tip – as an example, don’t try to fill a 50 lbs lawn spreader with 50 lbs worth of product, as you’ll run into all kinds of wasteful problems. Overfilling is always a recipe for a mess, so don’t get carried away just to try and save some time.

Flow Rate and Controls

Having a selection of flow rates with a spreader is important – particularly when it comes to overseeding or establishing new grass seeds.

Some lawn-care granular products/seeds will have a suggested flow rate written on the bag.

With others, you will have to do some math to figure out how much product you need in order to set the controls correctly and adequately cover the area. Or, it might well require a bit of trial and error to get right.

It’s very important that this calibration is accurate, as spreading too much or too little product can have seriously negative effects, including “burning” or damaging your existing turf.

While it might seem like the more options the better, you really don’t need a crazy amount of different increments. Just so long as you have a decent selection to do the job you should be fine.

And it’s a good idea to be able to reach these controls from the driving position – so pay attention to how you access them while you’re in motion.

Don’t be put off by the title of this post, but for more information on seeding and overseeding – including an in-depth guide on how to do it – check out this article on lawn care after winter.

The advice contained within can be used throughout the year – depending on your grass type.

Tires and Hardware

If you happen to have rough, uneven ground, then it might be a good idea to look for a spreader with larger pneumatic tires.

Something with a nice, grippy lug should do, with good clearance on the spreader, so you’re not likely to damage the undercarriage when going over lumps and bumps.

And make sure all other hardware on the spreader is up to scratch, durable, and treated for rust and corrosion.

Vehicle and Hitch Options

While most of the best tow behind fertilizer spreaders will come with a universal hitch designed to be compatible with the common makes of lawn tractor, it’s worth double-checking before purchase.

You certainly don’t want to get the thing home only to realize it can’t attach to your machine.

You’ll find the product’s compatibility in the specifications. For the most part, tow-behind spreaders can be used with lawn tractors, zero-turn mowers, and UTV/ATV vehicles.

Take a look at this article if you’re not sure what kind of mower you should have for your yard, and see if a ride-on machine is an answer. In order to use a tow-behind spreader, you need the right vehicle to actually tow it behind.

Cost

Cheap tow-behind spreaders aren’t going to be that good, but there are bargains to be had if you do your research well.

Most of the products I’ve included in this review aren’t going to break the bank, but you should consider how much use you’re going to get out of it before spending the big bucks.

Buy something quality if you’re going to be using it regularly – which will no doubt mean spending a little more.

And check out this review on the best budget zero-turn mowers – just in case you thought that technology was only available to the super-rich.

FAQs

What is the best tow-behind spreader?

That depends on your own circumstances. No two yards or gardens are the same, so the best spreader for my property might not be the best for yours.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of the products in this review, so take a look again and see if you can find the option that is most suitable for your needs.

Do Scotts make a tow-behind spreader?

You might think that the legendary lawn-care experts would make such a product, but at the time of writing, I could only find manual push/pull spreaders from Scotts.

Feel free to explore their website and prove me wrong, but perhaps they’ll design one in the future. After all, their broadcast spreaders are often the go-to choice for the homeowner.

Which is better: a drop spreader or a broadcast spreader?

They both have their advantages and disadvantages, which I’ve covered in more detail in the buyer’s guide above.

In a nutshell, a broadcast spreader is better for covering large areas, while a drop spreader is better if you need to be more accurate with the cast, such as along edges, borders, or anywhere you don’t want to drop the product.

How do you tow behind the broadcast spreader?

It’s pretty straightforward to set up your tow-behind spreader, providing you have the right hardware that is compatible with your vehicle.

Although the video below is geared towards Agri-Fab products, I think it’s useful as an overall guide for how to use a tow-behind spreader and get the best out of it, so give it a watch for some tips.

Who makes Brinly spreaders?

I have to admit I could find no information on why Brinly-Hardy products are now only labeled as Brinly, but the same company has been in operation for over 180 years.

As such they are still behind the Brinly spreaders, which are manufactured in Indiana, USA.

Summary

The best tow-behind spreaders will help you cover large areas of your property when your lawn needs rescuing, freshening up, treating for weeds and bugs, or a complete overhaul.

Let me know which product you’ve gone for and why, or if you have any tips and tricks for getting the best out of your lawn that you’d like to share with the community.

Best of luck, and happy spreading!

You’ve tried just about everything to destroy nuisance weeds and unwanted vegetation from your property, but it just doesn’t know when it’s beat.

It’s hunkered down and dug in like an Alabama tick.

And while you’ve shed blood, sweat, and tears on this mission, it’s time you radioed in for the big guns.

Enter the best commercial weed killers of 2026.

You’re not messing around anymore – the kid gloves are off. Reinforcements are about to rain liquid death down on your adversaries.

Read on to discover the most potent weed killers available on the market for residential use with a buyer’s guide thrown in as back up.

I love the smell of a dead weed in the morning.

TOP 13 Best Commercial Weed Killers 2026

Compare-N-Save Grass And Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Starting us off on our march towards freedom from weeds, is this budget-friendly herbicide concentrate from Compare N Save. Never too far away from “the best” reviews, this product has proven time and again that it can literally be compared to the brand names and still provide similar results.

Made with a high 41% glyphosate solution, it’s designed for use on patios, walkways, fence lines, and around the garden to give you visible results within two to four days.

This one-gallon container will mix up to 85 gallons of spray solution that can treat around 25,000 square feet. If you need a weed killer that will get the job done for just a bit more than a handful of loose change – this option is hard to beat.

Pros

Cons

Crossbow Concentrate Brush and Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Another commercial herbicide offered at an excellent price point, this option is a concentrated brush and weed killer for use anywhere you need to be completely clear of undesirable plant life. It’s a decent alternative to using a glyphosate solution, made with the active ingredient of 2,4-D acid.

Designed to control unwanted trees and brush, it will also tackle most broadleaf weeds across a range of non-crop areas and industrial sites.

Manufacturer Southern Ag is a reputable company when it comes to making high-quality herbicide, and this formula is no exception. It’s also a selective herbicide, having little effect on grasses if used correctly.

Pros

Cons

Sedge Ender Concentrate

This is a lawn-friendly weed killer that has been specifically designed to target sedge grasses and other nuisance lawn weeds. It will destroy yellow nutsedge and crabgrass, as well as numerous other pesky invaders, for use on warm and cool-season grasses.

Nutsedge is a particular nuisance and a troublesome adversary and often needs a dedicated herbicide to ensure it is kept at bay. With this product, Bonide offer results within a couple of days, so long as you use them as directed, and do your best to keep it away from desirable plants – even though it is a selective weed killer.

They also have some great options for killing Bermuda grass, so follow that link if you need some help with that troublesome menace.

Pros

Cons

Natural Armor Weed and Grass Killer

In an industry that’s often awash with harsh chemicals and formulas, it’s always nice to offer a milder option – especially if you’re looking for a strong weed killer and you have children and/or pets.

This offering from Natural Armour is 100% glyphosate free, made from all-natural ingredients to treat over 250 species of weeds and grass anywhere on your property. There’s no need to dilute or mix – you simply spray directly on to the plants and let the formula work its magic.

Probably the best commercial organic weed killer available.

Pros

Cons

Barren Weed Killer & Soil Sterilant

EPA registered, this non-selective herbicide is Barren by name and barren by nature.

Created to eliminate any vegetation it comes into contact with, the total kill formula takes no prisoners, and is designed for use around buildings, storage yards, and other industrial sites.

A soil sterilant, it offers long-lasting protection against weeds returning, and is recommended only for use on non-cropland areas and away from residential zones.

Extremely potent and powerful, I would advise great care when using this commercial weed killer – certainly nowhere near the prized roses.

Pros

Cons

Avenger Organic Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Designed for organic use, this concentrated herbicide is a post-emergent weed killer and safe to use around people and pets.

EPA approved, the non-toxic formula works in cool and cloudy conditions, and will not stain concrete, brick, or pavement patio finishes. You’ll see visible results inside two hours, and spray areas can be replanted not long after.

Made from citrus fruits, it has a pleasant aroma, and is capable of tackling most nuisance weeds around the home and garden.

This is a great option if you have large areas to cover, and you want to replant or use the soil in some way after the weeds have been eradicated.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

Here we have a classic example of a commercial total vegetation control product, that incorporates a powerful weed killer and preventer.

A persistent herbicide, RM43 will not only destroy all vegetation it comes into contact with, but it will keep any treated site weed-free for up to one year.

You’re guaranteed excellent coverage, too, as one gallon is capable of 17,297 square feet of weed control.

Ideal for use along fence rows, and around farm buildings and barns, this is an industrial-style herbicide that you can use in the home – just make sure you take great care when and where you dispense it.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Prodiamine Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Prodiamine 65 is a pre-emergent herbicide to provide you with excellent grass and broadleaf weed control. Ideal for use in both spring and fall, you can achieve season-long protection against crabgrass and other undesirable weeds in your desirable turfgrass.

A professional product, it’s best for use around nurseries, trees, established perennials, and wildflower plantings, and any non-crop region you wish to control annual bluegrass (poa annua), henbit, knotweed, chickweed, spurge, foxtail, and goosegrass.

One of the best commercial weed killers for lawns there is, and a solid alternative to more well-known brand names.

Pros

Cons

Round Up Pro Concentrate Systemic Herbicide

Now, this is interesting. This particular product is called Roundup Pro, and at 50.2% it has one of the highest amounts of glyphosate as the active ingredient in any commercially available weed killer (with Roundup Quik Pro being the only one higher).

However, it’s manufactured by Monsanto, a company that is actually no more, and one that has something of a checkered past – including controversies surrounding Roundup itself.

It seems this very potent, post-emergent herbicide is still readily available, so it’s up to you to decide if you’re happy using it on and around your property with a clear conscience.

Pros

Cons

Tenacity Turf Herbicide

Although this looks like it comes in such a small quantity (a syringe is included), this eight-ounce bottle is actually deceptively potent and will make up to 96 gallons of herbicide with 1/2 a teaspoon per gallon of water.

It should last you a long time with correct use.

Designed as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide for the selective contact and residual control of weeds in turf grasses, it will tackle over 46 nuisance broadleaf and grass species.

Tenacity’s active ingredient is 40% mesotrione, which is a naturally occurring compound – so you’re not using any harsh chemicals here. Very highly rated, this is a professional-grade product that will help you achieve excellent results for your lawns.

Pros

Cons

Milestone Specialty Herbicide

Milestone is another broad-spectrum weed killer for use on noxious and invasive species that appear in your lawn.

Best used to attack broadleaf weeds, like the Tenacity, it kills by both a post and pre-emergent effect, offering a super-fast knockdown within 24 hours, and long-lasting, residual control so weeds don’t come back.

No mixing is required, and it’s selective on most warm and cool-season grasses. Designed for commercial and agricultural use, it’s a potent weed killer that will also kill trees and shrubs should you require it to do that.

Another highly rated herbicide that will do the job it’s supposed to do – and then some. Just be careful you’re not spraying it on a windy day.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate

Homedepot.com

Here we have our last Roundup product which is their best concentrated weed killer for controlling widespread unwanted plant problems.

With a high percentage of glyphosate and designed for use in tank sprayers, you can cover a lot of ground and keep weeds at bay with one of Roundup’s most potent products available for residential use.

Ideal for use around flowers, shrubs, and trees, on patios, walkways, driveways, gravel areas, and mulch beds and along fences, edging and foundations, it’s rainproof within 30 minutes and you’ll see results in two to four days.

Cover 25,500 square feet and eradicate weeds from your property with this potent, post-emergent formula.

Pros

Cons

GrazonNext HL Herbicide

Grazon Next HL is a specialty herbicide that has been designed to kill more than 100 species of broadleaf weeds, including the hard-to-control perennials we all struggle with – such as nightshades, Canada thistle, horsenettle, and Texas bull nettle sharper.

Offers a fast burn-down all season long, and is safe to use on desirable grasses such as fescue, Bahia grass, and Bermuda grass – should it be required.

With no grazing restrictions regarding livestock, it’s designed for farm and agricultural use – but you can also have these benefits at home. Check out the very impressive reviews for this product and make your own mind up.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Commercial Weed Killer

There’s a lot to consider before you add your chosen commercial weed killer to the cart. Below, you’ll find a buyer’s guide that explains everything you should be looking out for.

Strength/Active Ingredients

Since we’re talking about commercial weed killers, perhaps the most important thing to consider is just how strong the product is.

Commercial herbicides are designed to be used by farmers, landscape professionals, around industrial and commercial sites, and at sport and leisure facilities – such as golf courses.

And these folks aren’t messing around – they want this nuisance vegetation dead.

With that in mind, you’ll find these products often contain some of the harshest chemicals and compounds – including the infamous glyphosate – which has been making headlines around the world in recent years.

There’s no doubt its ability to kill plants, but it’s the potential effects on humans and animals that are causing a stir.

When choosing a commercial herbicide for use around your home, check the active ingredients and their potency, and take great care when applying products of this strength.

Take into consideration water run-off, where you’re applying these chemicals, and if you have children or pets running around.

And if you prefer something a little milder, check out this review of the best pet-safe weed killers on the market.

For more information, and a short, crash-course in herbicide basics (including a word on the strength) check out the video below.

Selectivity

Another of the most important factors to consider when choosing a weed killer is in understanding what it is actually going to kill.

A selective weed killer will only attack certain plants and vegetation while leaving other species alone.

For residential purposes, perhaps the best use of a selective herbicide is on your lawn – where you certainly don’t want to kill off the desired grass, but you want to rid yourself of an invasive weed.

Of course, if you prefer not to use anything potentially harsh on your lawn, have a read of this article on how to remove weeds from your lawn without chemicals.

A non-selective weed killer will eliminate just about everything green that it comes into contact with.

They are the most potent of herbicides and should be used with great care, particularly around plants and vegetation that you want to keep.

Non-selective herbicides are ideal for use over larger areas where you simply want everything dead, and you’re not risking killing off anything desirable.

Aside from understanding selectivity, it’s also worth noting if the weed killer you’re interested in actually kills the species you want to remove.

Checking the label, reading online reviews, and listening to feedback from people who have actually been successful/unsuccessful with the product is an excellent way to figure out if it’s right for you.

For example, nettles can be an obnoxious, nuisance weed that are difficult to eradicate, so check out this dedicated article on how to get rid of nettles for more in-depth advice.

Pre/Post-Emergent

The life of a weed also needs to be understood (at least by the boffins in the chemical biology labs) in order to know how best to kill it.

With this in mind, three types of herbicides are readily available and are explained below.

Pre-plant herbicides will be used well before any weeds have had the chance to germinate, and in areas where a desirable crop is to be planted in the future.

Pre-emergent herbicides will kill the weed growth before germination, or before you see any vegetation breaking through the soil.

Post-emergent herbicides are specifically designed to destroy any existing and visible weeds that have sprouted and taken hold.

It should also be noted that post-emergent herbicides will either be ‘contact’ or ‘systemic.’ A contact herbicide will only kill what it touches, whereas a systemic herbicide will make its way through the plant and kill it from the root.

All commercial weed killers will fall under one of these categories, and it’s up to you to decide which you think will work best for your situation.

Persistence

When talking about the persistence of a weed killer, it’s simply referring to the length of time it will stay active in the soil after application. You will notice there are two types.

Persistent herbicides will prevent weeds from regrowing over a set period of time. This can vary from a few days or months, to up to a year and possibly more – depending on the strength.

Also called residual weed killers, they reside in the soil and are generally used in areas you want to keep clear of all plant life for as long as possible – without the need for further chemical application. Clearing weeds from driveways is a good example.

Non-persistent herbicides are exactly the opposite. They do not prevent any future regrowth, so plant life will come back to the treated area eventually.

While this might seem disadvantageous for weed killing, it’s more so that future crops can be planted in that soil.

Which type you choose will depend on what you want to achieve in certain areas around your garden over time.

Quantity

Commercial herbicides usually come in large quantities as more often than not they’re required to cover enormous areas.

Having said that, you can still purchase these formulas in smaller amounts, in spray or trigger guns, for example, to spot-treat, particularly stubborn weeds.

Remember, purchasing larger quantities will be more cost-effective in the long-run, but always choose the amount that suits your property and weed murdering requirements.

Application Methods

As well as coming in a variety of quantities, commercial weed killers are available in a variety of states and require suitable application methods to dispense destruction.

For smaller areas, trigger or spray guns will be suitable – especially if you just need to spot-treat one or two weeds.

If you need a step up from this, larger bottles are available that often come with their own spray applicator nozzle.

When treating lawns, granular weed killers are more common and are dispensed by using a lawn or seed spreader. They can also be useful around flower beds.

For larger areas, tank or backpack sprayers work best, usually with some kind of concentrate liquid herbicide that you need to dilute with water before applying.

And some herbicides require (or work best with) a surfactant – which changes the surface tension of the liquid and the target area it’s being applied to. This greatly helps it to penetrate the surface for more successful results.

A Note on Brand Names

If you were to ask anyone to name a weed killer, the chances are they would respond with “Roundup.”

While it’s the most famous brand name herbicide (certainly in the US and Canada), does it necessarily make a difference when it comes to actual results?

The answer is no.

Being the most well-known doesn’t always equate to being the best.

Having said that, there’s no doubting Roundup’s pedigree for weed massacre, it’s just that similar weed killers with almost identical ingredients also exist.

This is especially true after the glyphosate patent expired back in 2000 – and anyone can use that chemical formula in their weed killer products should they so wish.

In short, in the weed-killing world, although the brand name products have established themselves a loyal customer base – what works for one gardener might not work for you.

It might be worth a bit of trial and error – and you could end up discovering something that provides excellent results at a fraction of the cost.

Summary

Choosing the right herbicide for your needs isn’t as straightforward as you might think, as there are all kinds of products and formulas on the market, as the multiple gardening situations and scenarios that they cover.

But if you really just want to kill those pesky plants stone dead, then you need to add the best commercial weed killer to your ranks.

I hope this article has helped you discover the one that’s right for you, and let me know in the comments which product you have chosen and why.

Lawn care doesn’t completely stop during winter.

Sure, the grass is dormant, there might be less to do, and you can generally take a well-deserved break from intensive garden maintenance.

But for a truly enviable patch of grass, you’re not quite done just yet.

By implementing the tips and tricks in this article, you can see your lawn safely and healthily through the colder months, so it comes up smiling in the spring.

And that’s the difference between a good lawn, and a great one.

Let’s get started.

Winter Lawn Care – Too Long, Didn’t Read

In a rush?

Here’s a brief summary of what’s included in this article if you don’t have the time to read the whole thing.

A good fall/winter lawn care regimen includes:

We still highly recommend reading through each point in more detail, as you’ll find a wealth of expert tips and advice on how to achieve the best results.

Furthermore, you won’t necessarily need to do everything in the list above from September through to March/April – so it’s a good idea to read on to properly learn what goes where.

It’s also beneficial to understand how grass behaves during the winter, so let’s take care of that right now.

Knowing Your Grass Type

Winter grass care depends highly on the type of grass you have growing on your lawn. If you live in Northern climates, you probably have cool season grass while those living in Southern climates are more likely to have warm season grass.

But what’s the difference?

Cool season grass is usually a type (or species) of turf grass, designed for decoration, to be mowed more often and growing best in warm weather in spring and summer.

This is the most widespread lawn grass in the US, so you are likely to have this type on your lawn. Cool season grass becomes dormant (inactive) during colder seasons yet looks beautifully green most of the time. Plus, it’s said to absorb pollutants so it’s great for air quality too!

Warm season grass usually includes different types that take their origins from tropical areas. This kind of grass is made to be resistant to drought and grow the most during the hottest times of summer.

If you live in the Southern area, take note of the humidity – not all types of warm season grass are suited for places that are very dry.

Knowing the type of grass on your lawn and the conditions you live in will determine how much watering is needed and what your lawn needs are during winter months. And if there is even such thing as winter where you live!

What Happens to Grass During Winter?

Just as with all things nature, the season of winter makes your lawn go… well, quiet.

It doesn’t mean it’s becoming completely inactive, but it’s minimizing its growth in order to withstand the harsh weather.

During this time, the grass is more fragile. It will stop growing sometime during late October or early November – or whenever the temperatures drop regularly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

That’s when you should be thinking about the last mow of the season – but more on this step is coming up, below.

After it stops growing, the grass is slowly going to turn brown (again, depending on your species. Some grasses – particularly warm season varieties, will stay green all year round).

Help! My grass is dying!

No, it’s not.

Grass turning brown is perfectly natural, and absolutely no reason to panic. It then enters a dormant state to prepare for the really cold weather.

Brown grass isn’t dead or dying, it’s simply focused on conserving water, nutrients, and the energy it needs to survive.

Think of it as hunkering down or hibernating when the Mercury plummets. Which is pretty much what I do during the frigid winters of the Midwest.

And it’s because of those freezing temperatures that your lawn needs a little extra TLC to see it through to the spring.

Preparing Your Lawn for Winter

Winter lawn care starts well before winter arrives, and you might find that your fall yard work schedule is just as busy as it was in the summer – if not more so.

Here’s what you need to do:

Cleaning Up

Winterizing your lawn starts with ensuring it’s completely cleared of debris and detritus. You need to:

Once the lawn is free from such material, you’re ready to dethatch and aerate – keep reading for more information on those two important practices.

For a more in-depth fall lawn care guide – including steps and advice on how to properly prepare your turf for winter – follow that link.

And don’t forget to practice composting with all that decaying matter you clean up – get it out of your gutters, off your lawns, and into a compost bin!

Check out the video below, which explains how you can continue to compost through the winter months.

Winter Mowing

I don’t think I know anyone that genuinely enjoys mowing their lawn. Unless, maybe, you’ve got one of these riding lawn mowers, that is.

Thankfully, mowing the grass isn’t required during winter. Grass has all but stopped growing, and it becomes brittle and weak – particularly after frost.

Which also means the neighborhood is now blissfully quiet – without the cacophony of lawnmower engines every weekend. (And one of the many reasons why I’m a fan of eco-friendly battery-powered machines).

As mentioned above, your last mow of the season should come when the temperature has dropped constantly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and/or when the grass has visibly stopped growing.

As a rule of thumb, this is usually sometime during late October to early November.

But does height matter? What setting should you apply to your lawnmower for this final cut?

A pre-winter mow should be a little shorter than usual, to help protect your grass against snow mold, and other such lawn diseases.

Never allow your grass to remain long through winter – as you’re asking for all kinds of trouble come the spring.

This article on proper mowing heights through the seasons will tell you more.

Aerating and Dethatching

Once you’re left with a visibly tidier lawn, you might think it’s been completely cleared.

But there’s still a bit of work to do.

Look closely, right on the soil surface, at the base of the grass blades.

It’s here you’ll find a layer or material called “thatch” – dead plant life, debris, and organic matter that accumulates just above the soil.

This layer can be detrimental to the health of your lawn, harboring weeds, pests, and unwanted critters, as well as choking out the grass itself.

It needs to be removed.

Check out this full guide on how to dethatch your lawn, including why, where, when, and how to do it successfully.

Once properly dethatched, you can move on to aeration.

After the stresses of the summer, including drought, foot traffic, and other factors, your lawn is likely to be fairly compact.

Aeration is the process that loosens up the soil, and allows your lawn to breathe.

Aside from encouraging healthy grass blades, it has numerous other benefits, all of which are discussed in this aeration article. The link also has tips on how to properly aerate your lawn.

Overseeding and Repair

If your lawn has bald/bare spots, or has suffered under heavy traffic, pet and animal urine, or any other stresses through the summer months, this is a good opportunity for some repair work.

Overseeding is the best way to bring back barren or damaged areas of grass on your lawn.

While it’s going to be of no use through winter itself, the fall is one of the best times of year to overseed, as it will help keep your grass healthy and strong as the temperature drops.

And, of course, it will patch up any problem areas where you see more brown than you do green.

Go here for a full guide on how to help your grass grow healthy and thick – including advice on the best overseeding practices.

Winter Fertilizing

Fertilizing isn’t necessary during winter. In fact, it would cause much more harm than good.

Imagine how crabby you would be if you were asleep and someone tried to force-feed you!

But you should still aim to fertilize one final time just before the first frost is due, and after you’ve mowed, dethatched, aerated, and overseeded of course.

Make sure you choose the right kind of fertilizer for your soil and lawn. The video below explains this in more depth.

Winter Watering

Much like mowing, your lawn isn’t going to need watering through the winter – with a couple of caveats.

If you find your region experiencing a warmer, drier winter than normal, then it is advisable to give your lawn a drink from time to time.

However, as in most cases, snow and rainfall will be more than enough to provide the moisture your lawn needs from November through April.

And remember – overwatering and too much moisture can damage a lawn, so only reach for the hose if absolutely necessary.

Observation and Action

Now, you might think to yourself – all of these steps have taken place before winter – how do I actually care for my lawn during winter?!

And it’s a great point to make.

Once your winter lawn care prep is finished (likely to be around early November for most people) you might think there’s little else to do.

But there are two more, very important steps in helping your lawn through the winter months.

Keep your eyes on it.

And keep your feet off it!

Winter lawns are brittle and weak, and if you’re trudging your size 11s all over the yard, you’re going to damage grass that’s already struggling enough.

So, observe from a distance, and note things like excess moisture build up (such as poor drainage), signs of pests or disease, and any weather-related effects in your region.

Plus any other unforeseen incidents that might cause your lawn unwanted grief.

Then, you can act accordingly, and give your turf what it needs – only when it needs it.

And when the snows finally start to clear, and a bit of color returns to the world, check out this article on how to properly care for your lawn after winter.

Because then the hard work really begins.

Again!

What if it Snows?

If it snows – build a snowman!

A blanket of snowfall can actually be beneficial to your grass, as it provides a nice boost of nitrogen to the soil, at the same time as protecting it from the cold and wind chill it had previously been suffering under.

It also acts as an insulator, warming the freezing surface a little, and giving the grass a much-needed drink from the moisture in the snow.

As such, you don’t need to be too concerned when the white stuff arrives. Your lawn should survive perfectly fine under it.

Tools and Maintenance

Now that your lawn has its winter coat on, you can sit back, relax, and reflect on your lawn care regimen.

How did you do?

What were your successes?

What could you have done better?

And do you have a heated garage?!

While you’re pondering the year’s gardening experience, you might also like to take a look at all your lawn care tools.

Because lawn care starts and ends with having the proper gear and equipment in your arsenal.

Sharp tools, and well-oiled machines. What needs to move can move, and what needs to be fixed stays fixed.

While yard work is all but over for the season, winter is a great time to maintain, repair, and replace any tools and yard machines you might have.

Providing, of course, you have a comfortable place in which to do it!

Personally, I don’t have a warm garage, so I wait until temperatures start to increase before maintaining my lawn care armory.

But do whatever you feel comfortable with.

Here’s a complete list of all the lawn care tools you’ll ever need, and don’t miss our complete annual lawn care guide – which shows you what to do on a month-by-month calendar basis.

FAQs

How do I keep my grass nice in winter?

There’s not a lot you can actually do during winter itself (except be observant and stay off your lawn), so winter grass care starts in the fall.

Follow the regimen above and your lawn should return green and healthy come the spring.

Should I do anything to my lawn before winter?

Yes. In fact, it’s during the last days of autumn that are perhaps most important for winter lawn care health.

It’s during these days that you should be undertaking your final mow, dethatching and aerating, overseeding (if required), and laying down a winter prep fertilizer.

Is it better to leave your grass longer for winter?

No. You might think that longer grass is going to protect it – as it does during the heat of the summer – but you actually need to cut your grass shorter for winter.

That’s so it doesn’t create a breeding ground for mold and other diseases – particularly when under a blanket of snow.

Do I need to fertilize my lawn before winter?

You don’t need to – your lawn should survive perfectly fine without it.

But if you really want to make sure it bounces back as healthily and green as possible, then it certainly won’t hurt to apply some fertilizer in the fall.

Just make sure you’re using the right type of fertilizer with the right balance of nutrients for your soil. When in doubt, use soil testing kits to be sure.

Should my grass be watered in the winter?

No, it’s not necessary. Snow and rainfall will take care of that.

That is, of course, unless you’re in a region that doesn’t get much snow or rain, and/or you experience a freakishly warm and dry winter.

In that case, feel free to break out the sprinkler as and when required. Just be careful not to overwater – which can cause more harm than good – particularly during the colder months.

Should I aerate my lawn in winter?

During winter it will be too late – the ground will be frozen solid, and aerating is a tough enough job as it is!

The fall is the best time to aerate your lawn – after the stresses of summer, and just before the first frost of the season.

Conclusion

Hopefully, these winter lawn tips will help you and your lawn prepare for the next winter – and stop you from feeling like grass is always greener elsewhere.

Now, do you have any tips of your own for lawn care in winter that you have found useful or even life-changing?

Do share them in the comment section!