The cold temperatures can do a number on both us and our lawns if we’re not appropriately prepared.

Are you wondering how to winterize your lawn? Or even what winterizing your lawn is?

You’re in the right place.

I’m going to explain what winterizing grass involves, when and why to do it.

Key Takeaways

Winterizing your lawn helps it to survive the winter so that it is healthy and ready to grow when spring comes.

The main lawn winterizing tasks include fertilizing, aerating, clearing fall leaves and mowing nice and short.

What is Winterizing?

Winterizing is a phrase used to describe tasks you might do in your yard in the fall to prepare your lawn and garden for winter.

Carrying out winterizing tasks helps to ensure that your lawn and garden are in the best shape to survive winter and be ready to thrive as soon as spring arrives.

Common winterizing tasks include:

Why Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

Winterizing the lawn and garden is a good idea for multiple reasons.

But what it boils down to is that taking a few steps to keep your garden (and equipment) healthy during the winter will mean that it can thrive come spring.

You don’t necessarily have to do everything on this list. For example, you may decide the fertilizing isn’t really necessary (if you already gave your lawn a good feed at the start of the growing season then that is likely the case).

When Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

When do you winterize your lawn? This depends on which winterizing tasks you’re carrying out, as they’ll vary in timing a bit.

Generally speaking, the most common winterizing tasks are carried out through fall in preparation for winter.

You ideally want to have all of your planned winterizing tasks completed by the time winter arrives.

Start thinking about what you’re going to do at the beginning of fall to give yourself a good amount of time.

How to Winterize: 10 Tasks

Fertilize

One of the more common winterizing tasks that people think of is fertilizing.

Fertilizer for winter generally includes higher levels of potassium in order to promote root health. It is also slow release to provide nutrients slowly over the course of the whole winter.

However, it pays to remember that only plants that are actively growing through winter, such as cool season grasses, should be fertilized. If you have warm season grasses, fertilizing while they are dormant will do more harm than good.

If your lawn is healthy and has already been fertilized in early fall, it likely won’t need another feed before winter, as even cool season grasses slow down their growth during the coldest months.

Are you up with the difference between granular and liquid fertilizer? Have you been wondering whether fertilizer goes bad? Be sure to check out my other handy guides if you have any more questions.

Aerate

Aerating is probably the most important winterizing job you can do for your lawn.

Aerating during the fall will help your lawn to survive winter without getting bogged down by all the rain, allowing for adequate movement of water, oxygen and nutrients.

Read about how to aerate in this guide and about the different types of lawn aerators.

Dethatching at the same time is also a good idea if its needed.

Overseed and Patch Repair

For cool season grasses, fall is a great time to overseed your lawn and carry out patch repairs on any dead or dying patches.

Overseeding can help to thicken up your lawn, reducing the space available for weeds to get comfortable. Overseeding in fall means that by the time spring arrives, your lawn should be lush and healthy.

First up, make sure you’re choosing the right type of grass seed for the job. Annual rye grass is a great option for keeping your lawn green through the winter if you live somewhere that doesn’t get snow and usually have warm season grasses that will go dormant.

Weed

Even though weeds don’t tend to grow much during winter, you still want to hand pull any of the really big, problematic ones before they release their seeds and create more problems for the future.

You’ll be reducing your spring work load a lot by weeding in the fall, and continuing to stay on top of any that might appear during winter too.

While hand pulling is always the best option, if you decide to use herbicides, be sure to use the right kind.

Put Away Irrigation Systems

Unless you live in a hot, dry climate, you likely won’t be irrigating during the winter.

Emptying and putting away your irrigation systems can help prevent damage from weather and freezing temperatures.

Adjust Mowing Height

Thinking about how you mow your lawn in the fall will definitely help to keep it healthy through the winter.

However, the last mow that you do before winter sets in should actually be much shorter, especially if you’re expecting snow to hang around for a while on your lawn. Cutting really short will help protect from winter diseases and rot.

If you’re going to be in the market for a new mower, I have a range of articles with different mowers to recommend, including commercial zero turn mowers.

Remove Fall Leaves

While fall leaves make amazing mulch once they’re shredded up, un-shredded leaves can stick together and form a mat that can suffocate your lawn (this is true of moss lawns too).

Top tip – run over them with your lawn mower catcher on and then use the shredded leaves and grass clippings on your garden beds!

Mulch/Sew Cover Crops

Mulching or sewing cover crops are great ways of keeping your garden beds happy for the winter. Mulching helps to regulate temperature and moisture levels while cover crops prevent weed growth.

Cover crops, known as green manure, or green crop, are actually designed to be tilled into the ground at the end of the season as a way of naturally fertilizing the ground.

Prepare Mower for Storage

If you live somewhere where your lawn will be under snow, or its cold enough that you’re going to be experiencing little to no grass growth, your mower is going to be out of action for a little while.

Key things to remember are to empty out the fuel tank (including the fuel lines), give the whole thing a clean, add some lube, an oil change, and possibly a filter change too.

If you have a battery powered lawnmower, make sure the battery is fully charged before storing it for winter.

You ideally want to store your lawn mower under cover in a garden shed or garage. But, if you don’t have space you use a custom made cover or simply wrap a durable, waterproof tarp over the mower with bungee cords.

Fall is also  great time to give your mower a once over and check for any repairs or maintenance work that might need to be carried out.

If you’re not sure where to start, have a read of this checklist.

Mark Out Pathways before Snow Arrives

Once your yard is covered in snow, you may not remember exactly where your lawn is, where the garden beds are and where your pathways are. This could cause you to be inadvertently walking across the lawn or garden beds, or worse, shoveling into them, causing damage.

Mapping out where your paths are with stakes and string makes clearing pathways easy and saves your grass from turning into a slushy mess of mud and melted snow.

Summary

All clear on how to winterize lawn?

It might seem like a lot of work, but the benefits of winterizing lawn work in the fall definitely pay off in the spring.

If you only choose one winterizing lawn task, choose aerating.

Do you agree? I’d love to know what you do to winterize the lawn in your yard. Please share your experience in the comments below!

Most homeowners do nothing more than cut the grass when it gets too high, but for others, it’s a dedicated mission to achieve a beautiful patch of green space to be proud of.

And it’s just as challenging as it is rewarding.

Of the many steps required, choosing between all the types of lawn fertilizers can be a daunting prospect.

In this article, we help to sort through all the fertilizer products available, so you know exactly what to use on your lawn.

Plus, there’s some extra advice on how and when to apply it, as well as plenty of general tips and tricks for boosting lawn health.

What Type of Fertilizer to Use? Too Long, Didn’t Read

Let’s get right to the point – for anyone who doesn’t have time to skim through the whole article.

Lawn fertilizers aren’t as confusing as you might think, and can be divided into the following general types:

Then, they can be subdivided into these types:

They might also be described as :

Finally, they can include a pre- / post-emergent weed killer as part of a weed and feed-type product, or they can be a dedicated lawn fertilizer on their own.

That’s it, in a nutshell, but there’s a lot more to it than that – including an explanation of the nutrients contained within each fertilizer, when to use it, how much to put down, and the dangers of overuse.

And, of course, how to choose the right one in the first place!

For all this and more, stay with us, and read on!

Do You Need Lawn Fertilizer?

It’s a great question – surely your lawn grass can grow on its own, so why do you need fertilizer in the first place?

Technically, you don’t. You can just let nature do its thing, and you’ll have an average patch of grass in your yard that does its job of looking like an average patch of grass.

But if you want to wow your guests and the BBQ, then you need to take action.

Last year, when overseeding, I applied fertilizer on my front lawn, and nothing on the lawn at the back – as a simple experiment.

My rear lawn was its regular, old, average self, and my front lawn was thick, carpet-like, and a vibrant shade of green.

And it’s not hard to see why.

While the soil provides some nutrients that growing grass requires – it’s not able to provide everything a lawn needs to really be the best it can be.

This is especially true during the growing season, and/or when you’re planting new seed.

New grass in particular needs as much help as possible to germinate, and grow into a lush, healthy lawn, as it takes a lot of energy to do so.

That’s where the right choice of lawn fertilizer comes in. You don’t need it, but boy is it going to make a visibly noticeable difference.

And that’s not to mention the benefits a lawn fertilizer can give you for keeping pests, weeds, and disease away.

Types of Fertilizer for Grass

When shopping for lawn fertilizer, you might be overwhelmed at the sheer number of products vying for your cold hard cash, and it can be intimidating if you’re totally new to lawn care.

How to know what fertilizer to use on your lawn?

We can start by breaking down the different types, which we can do like this:

Lawn fertilizer is available in either granular or liquid form. Below, you’ll find a more detailed explanation of the two and how they are applied.

From there, a fertilizer will either be an organic or synthetic product.

Organic Fertilizers

As the name suggests, is an all-natural fertilizer that is designed to break down in the soil and release nutrients to aid plant health and growth. Follow this link for some top organic gardening tips.

It usually consists of things like seaweed, blood meal, manure, fish bones and scales, and compost. They can help boost micronutrients in the soil, although they do have a lower “NPK” rating.

Keep reading for a full explanation of the NPK numbers.

It’s a good idea if you have access to a compost bin, and you can follow that link to find some excellent tumblers. You’re literally throwing money away if you’re not composting!

Synthetic Fertilizers

Synthetic fertilizers are man-made products designed to give your garden the best possible chance at health. They’re water-soluble, fast-acting, and used when you need to see more rapid results.

These fertilizers contain inorganic compounds and by-products, such as ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, and potassium sulfate.

A plant actually needs a total of 17 nutrients to thrive – not just the “NPK” that are more prominent in synthetic fertilizers.

This article on synthetic vs organic fertilizers has more information, but both certainly have their place when it comes to lawn care.

In general, however, I would choose a synthetic fertilizer for fast results, and an organic option for a long-term, slow-release feed and sustenance.

NPK Numbers Explained

You might have noticed a set of three numbers somewhere on the lawn fertilizer packaging, with (or often without) the abbreviation NPK.

Here we come to the dreaded sciency-bit. But fear not, for we here to bust the jargon, as checking a fertilizer’s nutrient content is an important part in the selection process.

For example, if the packaging or specifications read 10-20-10, then you have a fertilizer with 10% nitrogen, 20% phosphate, and 10% potassium.

The rest of the fertilizer will be made up of filler (which is why these numbers don’t add up to 100%).

Simple, right?

Of these, nitrogen is the most important, essential to the development and health of plants (and just about anything that lives). It helps build proteins and DNA in living organisms.

Plants that are starved of nitrogen will be visibly affected, and show signs of stunted growth, yellow/brown leaves, and appear to be withered and dry.

It could be one of the reasons your grass is discolored, and this article on fixing yellow grass might be able to help.

Phosphorus is considered second only to nitrogen when it comes to plant health, and it helps to promote photosynthesis – the plant’s ability to use sunlight to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water.

This, in turn, affects how a plant stores and uses energy. Without it, a plant will be weak, brittle, and show signs of discoloration – similar to blue/purple/red bruising.

Fruit, seeds, and flowers will also be deficient.

Finally, potassium is important in the general movement of nutrients, water, and carbohydrates through the organism.

It helps the plant to grow, resist drought, combat pests and disease, and provide a healthy yield of fruits and vegetables where relevant.

In a lawn, potash (as it’s often known) encourages deep roots and healthy green stems.

A potassium-deficient plant will show curled, yellow leaves, roots will not be strong and extensive, and yields will be low and of poor quality. The plant will be more vulnerable to pests and disease.

So, now you know what each mineral element does, how do you know how much of each your grass actually needs?

Different regions have different lawns. And different lawns require different amounts of nutrients – depending on what is and what isn’t already present in your soil.

To keep things simple, here’s a rough guide to choosing the right balance of lawn fertilizer nutrients:

For a damaged or stressed lawn – look for a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen and potassium, which can help give the grass the boost it needs to get stronger.

For a healthy existing lawn – a nitrogen-rich lawn fertilizer is the way to go, easing off on the P and K numbers.

For starting a new lawn – this is where phosphorus and potassiumnitrogen come into their own, in order to establish a strong root system. Keep the nitrogenpotassium to a minimum until the new life has had a chance to settle in.

And this article on when to fertilize new grass for the best possible results should help you if you’re taking the first steps in your quest for a backyard putting green.

However, if you’re genuinely serious about choosing the right type of fertilizer for your lawn, you can’t rely on a general, catch-all guide.

You might be able to ask a neighbor, do some research on the internet, or even make an educated guess.

But a dedicated soil test is the only way to be 100% sure.

Soil Testing and Grass Type

Oh, how we wish we’d paid more attention in biology class! But before you start freaking about conducting science experiments in your backyard, let us put your minds at ease.

Soil testing is as easy as purchasing a soil testing kit, and following the simple instructions – depending on the type of kit you’ve selected.

When the results are in – which can be in minutes or a few days – depending on the type of test you use – you will have a better understanding of what your soil already has, and what it lacks.

You can then choose an appropriate fertilizer that can redress any imbalance. Furthermore, if you also intend on growing fruit or vegetables in your garden, then a soil test is essential to use in your plots.

As well as testing the soil, you should also pay attention to the type of grass you have in your yard – and identify if you have warm or cool-season grasses.

Warm-season grasses, such as St Augustine, Bermuda, and centipede, will need more treatment than cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and rye.

How and When Lawn Fertilizers Are Applied

Liquid fertilizers are dispensed by either using a tank or backpack sprayer, or, more commonly for large areas, hooking a spray bottle up to a garden hose. Try using a hose cart with wheels to make things easier.

Granular fertilizers will be distributed using a walk-behind broadcast spreader – or by hand. Just make sure for both practices you’re wearing a pair of good-quality gardening gloves.

Alternatively, if you have the means (and the lawn size) a granular fertilizer is best dispensed from one of these awesome tow-behind spreaders.

Granular fertilizers are more suitable for greater control over your lawn-care schedule, as they offer residual time-release formulas that prevent nutrients from washing away.

For a more detailed article on the liquid vs granular fertilizer debate, follow that link.

But when should lawn fertilizer be applied?

When it comes to lawns, it depends on the type of grass you have, and where you are on your current lawn care schedule.

The fall and spring are the best times, when the grass is growing, and you’ve already cut it a few times. This article on lawn care after winter, and this one on fall lawn care will tell you more.

Go here for more general information on how often you need to fertilize your garden, and this article offers a complete, month-by-month guide to lawn care.

But before we move on, here’s a pro-tip – when it comes to choosing season-specific lawn fertilizer – give them all a miss and save money.

Simply choose one, good-quality fertilizer that’s right for your type of soil and grass, and use it throughout each fertilizing season.

Remember, the vast majority of these “sensational” new lawn-care products are just clever marketing ploys. You don’t need a “fall” fertilizer, any more than you need a “spring” one.

However, I would choose a starter fertilizer if you’re specifically trying to establish new grass.

Over Fertilizing a Lawn

With all these nutrients packed into a lawn fertilizer, can’t you just dump bag after bag on your lawn for the best grass in the universe?

Unfortunately, no. When it comes to this type of product, you can have too much of a good thing.

Excess lawn fertilizer can “burn,” your grass. That’s to say, it won’t set it alight, but it will seriously raise the nitrogen and salt levels, which will turn your grass yellow and/or brown, eventually killing it off completely.

As such, it’s important you stick to the distribution guide of the particular fertilizer you’re using, and you resist the temptation to apply too much “feed” in the hope that more is going to mean more.

Soil Amendments

Soil amendments are not strictly classed as fertilizers, as they are designed to improve the quality of the soil itself, and not directly boost nutrient levels to the plant.

Otherwise known as soil conditioners, they help with the physical properties of the soil, and improve its overall fertility for plant life to grow.

This includes improved water and nutrient retention, permeability (which makes it easy to break down), and drainage.

Weed and Feed Fertilizers – Yes or No?

Finally, we should take a look at one of the most popular types of lawn fertilizer on the market – the hybrid weed and feeds, often manufactured by familiar household names.

These products are designed to stimulate grass growth and lay down either a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide at the same time. It is an extremely convenient two-birds-one-stone option.

But are they actually any good?

Yes and no is the short answer.

Some gardeners swear by them, as they’re supposed to save time and money.

Check out this article on if fertilizer actually kills weeds, or if you need to find another method with a better chance of success.

Alternatively, if you do have a weed problem, you might like to try to tackle weeds in your lawn without the use of chemicals, and you can follow that link for tips on how to do so.

FAQs

Does fertilizer go bad?

It’s a great question. You’ve spent a small fortune on lawn fertilizers, and for one reason or another, you’ve got a stack of it left. Can you use it again next season?

This article on fertilizer shelf life will tell you everything you need to know.

What tools do I need for lawn care?

Glad you asked! Aside from lawn-care products like fertilizers, if you’re going to strive for a beautiful lawn, you need to have a well-stocked tool shed.

This article offers an essential lawn-care tool guide for all the gear and equipment you need – as well as the stuff you don’t. Head on over to find out if you’re missing something crucial.

What is the best fertilizer for lawns?

If you’re still having a bit of trouble making the choice, watch the in-depth video below:

Summary

Now you understand the different types of lawn fertilizers, you should be in a better position to choose the one that is right for your garden.

Let us know in the comments which option you’ve gone for, or if you have any lawn fertilizing stories and experiences you’d like to share with other lawn-loving green thumbs.

Stay safe out there, and we wish you the very best of luck with your lawn!

Yet, in spite of trying just about everything, that perfect, healthy, lush-green turf still seems to be elusive.

There’s a good chance that aeration has been overlooked – which is basically poking holes in your lawn’s soil to allow water, oxygen, and nutrients to circulate.

We’ve already covered how often you should aerate your lawn – so check out that link for more detailed information about the process.

But what kind of tool do you use for the task when there are different lawn aerators to choose from? Well, look no further, as we explore the best lawn aerators on the market in 2025.

Keep reading for a buyer’s guide and FAQ section to answer any further quandaries or queries you might have.

Because aerating could be the difference between a good lawn and a great one.

TOP 9 Best Lawn Aerators in 2025

Ohuhu Lawn Aerator Shoes

Let’s get started with a pair of these lawn aerator shoes which seem to have flooded the market in recent years. This version from Ohuhu is one of the best versions, thanks to a new design that makes them super-easy to wear and start aerating in no time at all.

The one-size-fits-all sandals have hook and loop Velcro straps that are easy to wrap and secure around your existing footwear, with an anti-slip surface to ensure that the device stays in place while in use.

The two-inch spikes are tough and durable, and at this price point, it’s an option you should really consider for small to moderate-sized lawns. Aside from this, they’re actually a lot of fun to use.

Pros

Cons

True Temper 4-Tine Spading Digging Fork

Many gardeners opt for simply using a digging fork to aerate their lawns, so I’ve included this highly-rated model from True Temper. It features a forged spading forkhead with four, diamond pointed steel tines for maximum durability and soil penetration.

There’s a 30-inch hardwood shaft, at the top of which you’ll find a poly D-grip that offers the best leverage, comfort and control. Designed for digging, turning, and aerating even the toughest soil, this is a quality garden fork that contains True Temper’s 212 years of garden tool know-how.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0365 16-Inch Push Spike Aerator

Here we have the first of our push/walk-behind aerators, which is of the spiked variety (walk behind core aerators are few and far between – if they exist at all).

This model is 16-inches wide, with five rotating wheels that each feature seven-inch spikes for up to 2.5-inches of aeration depth. There’s a steel tray that holds a concrete block should you wish to weigh the tool down and achieve maximum depth as you wheel across your lawn.

Ideal for smaller lawns or hard to reach places in larger gardens, this heavy-duty aerator can take up to 35 lbs of additional weight to pressure the galvanized steel spikes deep into the ground.

Pros

Cons

Goplus 18-inch Rolling Lawn Aerator

Following up is another rotary push aerator – also of the spiked variety. This is a roller-style tool with a single handle that is made from durable steel.

The diameter is six inches, while the length of the handle runs to 50 – which has been specially designed to make the task easier and take less time. The shaft is wrapped with a rubberized grip for comfort and control, and it will work in any type of soil conditions with three rows of multiple steel spikes puncturing holes in your lawn.

There’s no need to use any extra weight, and it’s very easy to assemble right out of the box.

Pros

Cons

Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator

This best-selling core aerator tool from Yard Butler is perfect for smaller sized lawns. In fact, it should never really be attempted on anything bigger than that – unless you want to give yourself a heart attack.

Joking aside, I’ve used this device, and it works a treat – but very hard work it is, and you’ll feel like you’ve had a session at the gym afterwards.

Made from stainless steel with cushioned handle grips, it’s simple to use, and drives into the turf much easier than a garden fork, pulling out little plugs of soil in the process.

It’s possible to get a nice rhythm going, but you’ll need to make sure your soil is damp/wet otherwise you might constantly clog up the tines. Hard graft aside, this is highly recommended by yours truly.

Pros

Cons

LawnStar Liquid Soil Aerator

Now for something completely different. To give you an alternative option, I’ve included this liquid lawn aerator which sure beats hard labor. Applied by using a tank or hose sprayer, this compound loosens the soil and increases water uptake and drainage, as well as conditioning the soil as it seeps in.

Ideal for people with larger gardens, it can treat up to 120,000 square feet of land – which will certainly save you from a lot of backbreaking work. And as it’s environmentally friendly, you’ve no need to worry about children, plants or pets with the non-toxic formula. Easily the best alternative lawn aeration method on the market today.

Pros

Cons

Step ‘N Tilt Core Lawn Aerator

This is possibly the best walk-behind core aerator on the market (perhaps because it’s one of the few – given the nature of the task). It works using a move and step system, with four, clog-resistant tines with sharpened edges lifting soil plugs out of the earth. They have been case-hardened for extra durability, and are designed to be used by an operator between 4”-6.5” tall, and weighing no more than 150 lbs. The unit can also double as a garden trolley for shifting heavy loads, and it’s ideal for use in smaller yards or in areas that are hard to reach by a motorized machine.

Pros

Cons

VonHaus Electric Lawn Dethatcher Scarifier and Aerator

Now we come to our one and only electric aerator, which is actually a two-in-one machine that also dethatches – so you’re getting more bang for your buck here. The aerator is of the spiked variety, and you simply switch out the drums depending on what you need to use the unit for.

Powered with a 12.5 Amp motor, it offers a 15-inch working width that is suitable for small to mid-sized lawns. There are five adjustable heights, with a 45-liter collection box to collect any surface material when you dethatch.

As dethatching is often part of the aeration and overseeding process, this is the best electric lawn aerator available. The folding design is easy to store and transport, too.

Pros

Cons

Brinly PA-40BH Tow Behind Plug Aerator

For larger yards, we turn to tow-behind aerators, and this model is a 40-inch machine that features 24 heat-treated, 12-gauge steel tines that penetrate compact soil and can remove up to three inches of earth.

Each plugging spoon has been designed to be narrower than usual tines, with sharp tips to allow successful operation while carrying less weight. However, should you feel the need to add some extra muscle to sink the tines in, there is a weight tray included that will hold an extra 150 lbs.

A single pin hitch system ensures that it will attach to most garden tractors and ATVs with ease, and the simple assembly means you’ll be ready to go as soon as the conditions allow.

Pros

Cons

Buyer’s Guide to Choosing the Best Lawn Aerator

Below you’ll find an in-depth guide on what to look out for or consider before purchasing an aerator. An FAQ section will follow.

Size of Lawn

Lawn aerators come in all shapes and sizes and are used in a variety of ways and techniques (outlined below).

Which one you choose will largely depend on the size of the land you wish to aerate.

If you have a smaller yard, you might not need much more than a manual aerator.

But if you’re lucky enough to have a yard large enough for one of these awesome zero-turn lawnmowers, then you should probably choose a tow aerator.

And bear in mind you won’t see any industrial/commercial/professional aerators here – they’re far too expensive and overkill for most residential use.

Spike or Plug Aerators?

Aerators operate by using either a spike or a plug system.

A spike aerator offers exactly that – a number of spikes that are used to poke holes in the lawn or top surface.

They’re ideal as a quick, temporary solution to poor irrigation and useful for seeding purposes, and they can be used on most lawn types and in any conditions.

Plug aerators (sometimes called core aerators) work by actually removing a small plug of soil from your lawn, and then depositing it on the surface.

This can have numerous advantages. It’s ideal for clay-heavy soil that’s tightly compacted, where a spike aerator will be all but useless.

The soil plugs should be left to decompose and fertilize the lawn, and it’s a very effective method for seeding/overseeding.

However, you’ll find that plug aerators are more time-consuming, and they need a specific set of conditions to be most effective and not ruin your lawn.

Also, some people don’t like the aesthetic of nuggets of soil left on their lawn surface – they look a lot like animal droppings.

Type/Application

Aerators come in a variety of types depending on their application.

There are products that you strap to your feet to aerate your lawn as you walk over it – using your own body weight to sink the tines or spikes deep into the terrain.

Manual, hand-operated aerators are available that you use by walking over your land and physically digging them into the soil.

Electric models are also on the market – with the machines usually combining an aerator with a dethatcher or another useful gardening tool.

Liquid aerators have been developed, and they offer an excellent alternative to mechanical devices or other tools. Applied with garden sprayers, they break down the soil and improve drainage, while having a huge advantage when it comes to using the least effort.

Tow-behind aerators are best for folks with larger areas to cover (and if you have something to tow it with in the first place).

Finally, industrial aerators are available – and while they’re probably the best lawn aerator machines, they’re outrageously expensive, they weigh a ton, and are superfluous for most people who just wish to improve the irrigation of their yard a couple of times a year.

Cost

And speaking of expense, the price of aerators can vary significantly depending on the type.

Once you’ve figured out which one you need, you should be in a better place to understand what sort of ballpark figure you might be paying for the tool.

However, I will say this – remember that we’re talking about a job that doesn’t need to be done very often (depending on your soil type, region, and garden aspirations).

That alone is worth bearing in mind before you part with big money.

FAQs

Which is better – a plug or spike aerator?

The consensus is that plug/core aerators are better.

This is particularly true if you have clay-heavy soil that can become seriously compacted. A spike tool or machine isn’t going to be nearly as successful.

If you think about what you’re trying to achieve, a spike aerator does create holes in your lawn, but it also compacts soil around the initial entry point – which can defeat the whole purpose.

On the other hand, plug aerators actually remove soil and create holes, which will allow the earth to breathe and expand – filling those holes back up over time – and by the very action not continuing to pack the earth down.

Having said that, spike aerators have their place – especially if your soil is already somewhat loose, or you need a temporary solution.

They’re also great for preparing your lawn for overseeding.

Plug aerators require specific conditions to be successful, and they can be stressful to your lawn. A real mess can be made if it’s done at the wrong time.

Should I pick up plugs after aerating?

You can if you want to – many people believe that the biggest disadvantage of core aeration is the unsightly plugs that it leaves behind.

However, it’s only going to create more work for you to remove them – and you’ll just be taking away good soil.

Leave them where they are, and they will naturally breakdown and help to fertilize your lawn.

What should I put on my lawn after aerating?

First, as mentioned above, leave the plugs alone if you’ve used a core aerator.

Next, you need to overseed your lawn. Make sure you choose the correct seeds for the type of grass you currently have, or you can feel free to mix it up or change the species over time.

If you’re starting fresh, you should choose a grass that will thrive in your location.

If the clouds are not due to open, water your lawn thoroughly. You need to do this every day until the seeds germinate. The seeds need to be kept wet, without over-saturation.

For that, it might be a good idea you treat yourself to a new hose reel cart.

It is recommended you don’t mow the lawn until you’ve allowed plenty of time for new growth.

After a few days, apply a starter fertilizer that will provide essential nutrients right where the lawn needs it. Your new seeds should have had the chance to become established.

For more information and some great advice for the whole process of overseeding and rescuing your lawn, check out the video below.

Is there a bad time to aerate your lawn?

Yes. Never aerate your lawn when it’s been raining heavily, or it’s generally too wet – you’ll just turn it into the grounds of a music festival after a thunderstorm.

Also, the summer isn’t a good time as the turf is likely to already be stressed with hot weather.

Can I mow my lawn after aeration?

It is recommended that you wait at least a week before mowing your lawn after aeration and overseeding.

Remember that you want to protect the new seeds as much as possible, so if you go hacking at the lawn right away you’ll do the opposite.

Give the new growth time before you mow – and make sure that when you do, your blades are sharp and you spend as little time as possible on the lawn.

Here’s a great resource for lawnmower blade sharpeners – if your edge has been dulled.

How long should you wait to mow your lawn after aeration?

As long as possible – but sometimes this isn’t an option depending on the type of grass.

As mentioned above, you should wait for about a week at the very least. But with most grass species taking between 10 and 14 days to germinate, you really shouldn’t be touching it for a while.

However, don’t wait until the grass is so high that it’s crowding out your new growth and preventing sunlight from reaching it.

Play it by ear (or sight), but when in doubt you can ask a lawn care professional for their opinion.

Can I use a tiller to aerate my lawn?

No. A tiller is designed to turn the soil while an aerator punches holes in it.

If you use a tiller on your lawn you will either break your tiller, destroy your lawn, or possibly both.

However, it is possible to buy aeration attachments for certain tillers – so check with the manufacturer to see if this is an option.

What is the best month to aerate my lawn?

If you have cool season grasses, the best time to aerate your lawn is in the fall. For warm season grasses, you should be looking at late spring.

Should I seed right after aerating?

It is recommended that you seed within a day or two of aerating. If you’ve taken the trouble to aerate your lawn in the first place, you don’t want to waste this opportunity.

This is why liquid aerators are not ideal for the seeding process.

Of course, you don’t need to seed at all if you simply want to improve the drainage and overall health of your lawn.

Should I aerate or dethatch first?

You need to dethatch before you aerate or you risk pushing unwanted surface material deeper into your lawn.

For an at-a-glance guide, the process is as follows –

1. Mowing.
2. Dethatching.
3. Watering (until moist but not soaking, and only if it’s already too dry).
4. Aerating.
5. Overseed/seeding.
6. Watering.
7. Fertilizing.

Remember though – it’s not as simple as that – and you will need to pay attention at each stage so you know when, where, and how to achieve the most beautiful lawn in the neighborhood.

Should I rent an aerator?

Many people decide that renting an aerator is the way to go – but why bother doing that when you could have your own?

Granted, it’s not going to be a $4,000 industrial-class model, but it will still do the same job, albeit take a little longer.

And if you’ve got a large enough yard, a tow-behind aerator is every bit as good.

Don’t forget if you’re going this once a year, the cost of renting will soon add up – and hiring a professional to simply poke holes in your lawn is going to be even more expensive.

I say if you’re perfectly capable of doing it – you should do it yourself.

The exercise will do you good.

Summary

Lawn aeration is key to a healthy and happy lawn, ensuring that it has proper irrigation, while allowing oxygen and nutrients to do their work.

I hope this article has gone some way to helping you find the best lawn aerator for you and your needs.

As I have a moderate-sized yard, I’d be leaning towards trying a liquid aerator – but if I was to try overseeding, I’d probably choose the step-on core aerator and give myself a work-out in the process.

Let me know which aerator you would choose and why.

I wish you the best of luck in turning your lawn into the green of any 18th.

Before you leave. If you are really serious about getting your yard in the best possible killers, don’t forget to get rid of old stumps as well. A quality stump killer will come in handy when taking your yard to the next level.

Weed and feed, lawn starters, lawn food, turf builders, lawn boosters, organic feeds, super-duper-grow-tastic-all-lawn-can-eat-buffets…

And that’s just the fertilizers!

Which pretty much answers the question in the title of this article.

Lawn food vs fertilizer – what’s the difference?

There isn’t any.

But rather than make this the shortest article ever, I’m still going to include some useful information on  the relationship lawns have with fertilizers – and why you should be adding them to your yard.

Lawn Food vs Fertilizer – The Short Version

Is lawn food the same as fertilizer?

Yes.

That is, if we’re talking about products that are designed to stimulate the growth of your lawn, keep weeds at bay, and help prevent pests and disease.

Plants (including the grass in your lawn) actually make their own food – so it’s a bit of a misnomer anyway. Keep reading for more on this process.

So, why all the confusion? Let’s find out.

Lawn Food or Fertilizer?

Simply put, there is no difference between commercially available plant food and fertilizer – it’s just a clever marketing strategy by some companies, and it’s not actually “food” at all.

Here’s a description of both, in a nutshell:

Fertilizers are products that are designed to boost the nutrient levels in the soil, so grasses, vegetables, and other plants can draw what they need to grow into healthy, bountiful organisms.

Plant/Lawn food is just the name that some garden-care companies give to their fertilizer products.

However, actual plant food is something completely different – and you’ll find more on this topic coming up.

Simple, right?

Now that’s all cleared up, I can start telling you some really useful stuff.

Here’s a great article on all the different types of lawn fertilizer available, so you can figure out the exact product that your lawn needs – depending on what you’re trying to achieve.

And the advice at this link will tell you when you need to fertilize your garden in general – and how often.

Plant Food vs Lawn Food vs Flower Food

Just so there’s no confusion – the same description can be applied to commercially available “plant food.”

Like lawn food, it’s a fertilizer product that contains ingredients to help boost a plant’s growth, which might be tailored to a specific plant – depending on the product.

Here we can mention stereotypical lawn food from Scotts, for example, and plant food from Miracle-Gro.

Both of which, of course, are actually just fertilizers!

But those sachets of flower food you get when you buy a bunch of blooms are a little different.

They’re designed to help keep cut flowers fresh for longer, and generally contain three surprising ingredients – citric acid, sugar, and bleach.

Yes, you read that correctly!

In fact, it’s actually very easy to make your own cut flower food, with one teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of bleach, two teaspoons of lemon juice, and a quart of lukewarm water.

Do that the next time you buy flowers for your partner (or for yourself), and the flower food sachet is missing.

And speaking of doing things yourself, why not check out this article on DIY lawn fertilizers – which will tell you all you need to know to produce your own, money-saving batch of “lawn food!”

Real Lawn Food

Now we’ve dispelled the myths of lawn foods (as in – it’s not actually food at all), let’s take a look at where plants and grass actually get their real food from.

And then, if you keep reading, how fertilizers fit into this process.

How much did you pay attention in biology class?

This doesn’t need to be overly complex – and so here’s a quick refresher:

The key word (that most of us will remember) is photosynthesis.

In order to complete this fascinating process, plants need chlorophyll – the pigment that gives all plants their green color.

And in order to produce a healthy amount of chlorophyll (among other things), our green friends need at least 17 mineral nutrients drawn from the world around them.

That’s plant nutrition in its most basic, basic form.

Super basic.

These nutrients can be divided into macro and micro varieties, which I’ve organized into a helpful table, below:

Consider each nutrient a building block for an organism to be a healthy, well-adjusted, grounded, contributing member of plant society.

Remove one, and over time you will notice the effects, depending on the nutrient, the plant, the conditions, and how much it has been deprived.

And while each nutrient has its own part to play, the most important of these, are the three macronutrients at the top of the left-hand column.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – the “big three.”

The eagle-eyed among you will notice that their chemical symbols – N, P, and K, correspond to those numbers on the front/back of bags of fertilizer.

This tells you the percentage of each nutrient contained within that particular product. And we basically use such fertilizers to ensure optimum conditions so that a plant can create genuine “plant food.”

This leads us nicely onto our next chapter, but if you’d like to take a more detailed dive into how plants make their food, you can check out the highly educational video below:

How Fertilizers Work

There are many benefits to fertilizing your lawn and garden, including promoting vibrant colors, strong root systems, bountiful yields, and keeping weeds, pests, and disease under control.

But how do they actually work?

It helps to think of them as a sort of multivitamin for plants.

I take an effervescent vitamin supplement every morning, for example, to boost my immune system. Adding fertilizer/lawn food to the desirable plants in my garden is a similar practice.

The “Big Three”

Synthetic fertilizers contain a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The latter is often abbreviated to “potash.”

Nitrogen is used to promote healthy green leaves – boosting the production of chlorophyll, and is essential for growth.

Phosphorus promotes a strong and healthy root system, as well as helping to produce blooms, fruits, vegetables, and seeds.

Potassium is required for stress tolerance, and to help keep disease and pests at bay. Think of it as a general supplement for overall plant health.

Top-tip – you can easily remember the benefits of the “big three” using this simple trick. Nitrogen helps plants grow up, phosphorus helps them grow down, and potassium helps them all around.

Organic fertilizers are more useful for providing the micronutrients that plants need – something that synthetic fertilizers aren’t particularly useful for.

And while small amounts of macro and micronutrients are all found naturally in the soil and air around grass and plants, think of fertilizers as a helping leg up.

But how do you what the soil needs in the first place? What’s the best ratio of NPK numbers to use?

That’s quite straightforward, as you can conduct a simple soil test, which will tell you exactly where your soil has a deficit, and could do with some help.

I highly recommend doing this before you start throwing anything down, as what works for my soil might not work for yours – particularly when living in different parts of the country/world.

Don’t just head to the local big-box store and pick up the first “lawn food” you find. Make sure you’re getting the ratios right, and your lawn will benefit as a result.

Fertilizer/Lawn Food Fillers

You might be wondering what else is in these fertilizers, considering the percentage amounts of the NPK numbers don’t add up to 100.

The rest of the product contains “fillers,” which are inactive ingredients that are used to dilute the nutrients.

They’re not there to make up the numbers – fillers help prevent nutrients from “burning” the plant life, as you can have too much of a good thing.

For more information, you can check out the video below, which explains how fertilizers help plants grow.

And before we finish up with some frequently asked questions, here’s an article you don’t want to miss: Our complete, month-by-month lawn care calendar.

It has everything you need to know and do throughout the year for the best chance of a beautiful lawn – so don’t miss it!

FAQs

Should I use liquid or granular fertilizer?

Easily one of the most common questions we get asked here at YardThyme – which is better – granular or liquid fertilizer?

It really depends on a number of factors, but a rule-of-thumb I like to remember is to use liquid for fast results, and granular for a slow-release formula.

Of course, it’s not always that black and white, and you can follow the link above for a full, in-depth article on the subject.

Does Fertilizer kill weeds?

It depends on the type of fertilizer – but to keep things simple, most fertilizers are designed to feed all plants – which includes undesirables like the six most common weeds you find in your lawn.

If you’re using a weed and feed product, however, it might be able to control weed growth with the inclusion of a pre-emergent herbicide mixed in with the fertilizer.

This article on fertilizers and weeds will tell you everything you need to know.

Should I use lawn food?

Yes. Next question.

Joking aside, you don’t need to use lawn food. Our lawns will be fine without – they just won’t ever reach their full potential without a bit of help.

But next time you’re driving around your neighborhood in the summer, make a note when you see a lush, thick, carpet of grass with a vibrant, deep green hue.

That’s the work of a fertilizer – among other lawn care practices.

If you’re serious about lawn care, then you need to be using a good quality fertilizer at least twice a year. And make sure you’ve got all these essential lawn care tools in your shed while you’re at it.

However, all that said, if you’re set against using any such formulas on your lawn, you can go the organic route.

Start a kitchen compost bin, with a compost tumbler outside – and you can create a super-charged topdressing that will benefit anything green in your garden.

Does fertilizer kill worms?

Earthworms are the gardener’s friend, and using lawn foods/fertilizer should be a concern for every gardener when it comes to protecting helpful species.

But fear not, for they should be fine with an application of most fertilizers – but you can check this article on worms and fertilizers for more info.

Does fertilizer go bad?

It’s a great question – as many gardeners have products sitting on the shelves in their sheds for several seasons.

And you can go here to find out if those fertilizers have a shelf life, including how long they last, when you should be using them, and if you can salvage that product that’s been stashed for X years.

Summary

I hope this article has cleared up any confusion about lawn food vs fertilizer, as they are actually one and the same thing!

It’s easy when you know, right?!

Let us know your thoughts in the comments, and/or if you have any fertilizing tips, tricks, and advice you’d like to share with your fellow green thumbs.

Stay safe out there, and happy gardening!

You might be surprised to hear that this is actually a pretty common question, especially in the spring after a cold winter.

Luckily there’s no need to worry; it’s often a natural process and also easy to fix.

I’m going to share the easiest ways to fix a bumpy lawn and how to help prevent it from happening again.

Quick Read

What Causes Bumps to Form on a Lawn?

Before deciding how to tackle your uneven lawn, you first need to establish the cause, or at least rule out a few. Some reasons for bumps can be easily remedied while others are a little trickier.

So, it pays to save some time and effort further down and line by asking yourself first:

What is causing bumps in my lawn?

Bumps in your lawn can appear for many different reasons.

Most of the time, a lawn becomes uneven over time if it has been exposed to too much traffic trauma in wet conditions when the soil is soft.

Bicycles, lawn furniture, football, pets and even the actual act of mowing, can all result in lumps and bumps if the lawn is subjected too often when it is vulnerable.

Other things that can result in a bumpy lawn include:

Do Bumps in Your Lawn Matter?

If you’re reading this article, then chances are you care about the lumps in your lawn. And if you care, then they matter.

But what if you don’t care? Should you still fix them?

The main things to think about are whether the bumps are a trip hazard, and whether any lower areas develop pooling water in wet weather.

If you have vulnerable people living on the property then making sure the lawn is even is important to prevent accidents. It’s also worth avoiding water pooling during wet weather as this can compromise grass health.

However, in saying all that, there’s nothing overtly wrong with having a lumpy lawn. After all, lumps and bumps are a part of nature. Provided you don’t cut your lawn short enough to scalp the higher areas, then it’s not the end of the world to leave some humps in your lawn.

How to Fix a Bumpy Lawn

If you’ve made it this far, chances are you’re still wondering how to fix a lumpy lawn. So, let’s get into it.

Top-Dress

The best way to fix a bumpy lawn that has occurred over time as a result of freezing and thawing is to top-dress it with fresh soil or compost.

What this means is spreading a layer of soil or compost over the whole of your yard and raking it out so that it fills in the holes and depressions. In these areas, where the soil ends up being a bit deeper, you can then reseed with fresh grass seed.

Just be sure to use the right kind of grass seed for your region and climate. I have an article dedicated to the different types of grass seed available and the conditions they’re best suited to if you’re not sure.

Replace Patches of Turf

Similar to top dressing and reseeding, another option is to remove the turf in places where there are obvious depressions, and fill in the depression with fresh soil.

Once the fresh soil is in place and leveled to match the surrounding lawn height, replace the turf with either the same piece of sod if it is healthy, or a new piece.

Re-Level

If your lawn is a complete disaster and the options above won’t cut it, then you always have the option of starting again. This would entail digging up the turf, leveling the ground, and either relaying new ready-to-go turf, or adding fresh soil and grass seed.

I have another guide to leveling your yard that might be helpful if you’re going to take this route.

Spot Fix

Lastly, if your lawn is suffering from bumps as a result of localized issues like tree roots, clumping grass species, or digging animals, then you only need to target that specific spot and the cause.

Tree roots shouldn’t be damaged so unless you can top dress the surrounding area to raise the level of the lawn, you may just have to make peace with them.

Clumping species of grass should be dug up and replaced with fresh sod with the grass species of your choice. It will take a bit of time for the lawn to look uniform again but it will get there eventually. Just be sure to water the new turf well while it gets established.

Lastly, if the mounds in your yard are caused by moles or voles then simply pushing them down with your foot when the soil is soft will suffice. If your lawn is healthy then the surrounding grass should spread over the bare patch quickly.

Should I Roll My Bumpy Lawn?

You might be wondering why I haven’t recommended simply rolling your lawn with a heavy lawn roller.

The truth is, there may be instances where it is appropriate to use a lawn roller. For example, if you know that the bumps in your lawn have been caused by an animal, like a mole or your pet having a dig, and your lawn doesn’t get easily compacted, then a quick roll might be appropriate.

However, often, a lawn roller might do more harm than good and leave you with a compacted lawn.

If you have decided that rolling is what your lawn needs, I have a guide to the best lawn rollers to help you out. Just be sure to aerate afterwards!

If you’re new to lawn care and not yet set up with the appropriate tools, have a read of my guide to lawn care tools here.

How to Prevent Your Lawn from Developing More Bumps in the Future

Since soil is full of living things, and living things naturally move and change form over time, maintaining a perfectly flat lawn is an unrealistic expectation.

However, there are things that you can do to reduce the chances of your lawn developing another serious bump problem.

These are:

Check for Insects and Diseases

Some pests and diseases can result in a lumpy lawn if they cause the grass to die in patches. These dead patches can then turn into depressions as the thatch and underlying soil is eroded away by wind and rain.

Keeping your lawn dense, healthy and disease-free will help to prevent bumps from forming.

Check for Clumping Grass and Weed Species

Some grass species, like clumping tall fescue, grow in clumps in a way that makes your lawn appear bumpy. The soil underneath is most likely flat, but as the clumps form and develop a thicker layer of thatch than the surrounding species, they can appear to be sitting higher on the lawn.

Some species of grass grow a darker green, or grow quicker than the surrounding grass, also creating the illusion of bumps.

The best way to manage this is to keep your lawn thick and lush with no space for opportunist invaders to set up shop. Overseeding at the start of the growing season is a good way to do this.

You can also manually dig up any clumps that have already established themselves and reseed those patches.

Check for Burrowing Animals like Moles

Moles and voles are notorious for creating lumpy lawns. Your options are to either manually flatten the hills as they appear, or find a humane way to discourage the animals from your property.

Aerate as Required

Aerating your lawn can help to prevent the appearance of bumps and depressions by promoting overall lawn health and helping to support drainage.

Aerating is just one lawn care task that should happen on a yearly basis for most lawns. Other lawn care tasks that can help to prevent a bumpy lawn, simply by keeping your lawn healthy and thick, are laid out in this calendar.

Use Correct Mowing Practices

Did you know that mowing your lawn in the same direction and pattern every time can create an uneven lawn? Repeatedly running the mower over the same patch of lawn will result in troughs and depressions where the wheels go.

Mix it up a bit and your lawn will thank you.

Check this article for more lawn mowing tips.

Avoid Using the Lawn when the Ground is Wet

Last but not least, one of the most important ways to look after your lawn is to avoid subjecting it to trauma while it is wet and vulnerable.

When the soil is wet, it is much more easily compacted and torn up. Wait until it’s dry before letting the pets and kids loose!

Summary

It appears that there are actually multiple causes for bumpy lawns, and just as many solutions.

Some of the causes are hard to avoid, like the natural settling of the ground during freezing and thawing cycles. Others, like using the lawn when it’s wet, are easier.

The solution you choose will depend on the cause of the bumps, but, most of the time, top dressing with fresh soil and seed is the best option for a healthy lawn.

I hope you’ve found this article helpful and are no longer wondering, why is my lawn so bumpy?

Let me know if you have any thoughts on what I’ve written here, I’d love to hear them!

And while the only real way to deal with them is to pull them up, root and stem – sometimes we just don’t have time for that.

So, we need to take care of them. If you know what I mean.

Y’know – whack ‘em.

No, I’m not talking about a mafia hit – I’m talking about using the best commercial weed eaters (or weed whackers) to cut back on the unruly foliage in the garden.

Whether you’re tidying up the edge of the lawn or taking down some serious jungle, the best choice is one of these powerful machines that the pros often use.

Read on to choose the one that’s right for you, and a buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow if you’re a rookie weed murderer.

Let’s go to work.

The 15 Best Commercial Weed Eater for 2025

Remington RM2560 Rustler String Trimmer

Starting us off we have this Remington 22cc gas-powered trimmer, which has a straight shaft and two-stroke engine. The design makes it easier to access hard to reach places, while the quick-change head allows you to convert from blade to bump head in seconds.

It offers you a 16-inch cutting width, quickstart technology that enables a faster, smoother start, and an adjustable handle providing multiple positions to reduce user fatigue.

It’s the perfect entry-level weed eater that’s well suited to handling small to medium-sized yards.

Reward: The best budget weed eater on the market.

Pros

Cons

Poulan Pro PR25CD String Trimmer

US company Poulan has been in the power tool game since 1946, and their Pro range products are definitely worth a look. This curved shaft string trimmer has a 23cc, two-stroke engine, with a 16-inch cutting swath at the dual-line, bump head.

The fuel tank is translucent so you always know where you are with range, while the sure-fire fuel delivery system of prime, choke, and pull ensures the machine starts with ease every time.

An attachment handle means you can adapt the tool up to five different ways for a variety of jobs, including a brush cutter, cultivator and pole pruner – among others.

Reward: The most versatile commercial weed eater.

Pros

Cons

Wild Badger Power WBP26BCI Brush Cutter

Another budget-friendly weed eater now with this offering from Wild Badger Power. It’s a straight shaft machine powered by a commercial-grade 26cc full crank two-stroke engine.

The easy, twist-n-load string trimmer makes replacing the line foolproof, while the ergonomic trigger set with auto on kill switch and soft-grip handle ensures safe and comfortable operation at all times.

The real bonus here is the fact it comes with a brushcutter head for the tougher undergrowth and groundcover, and a harness – so you can carry the machine with extra support until the big jobs are done.

Reward: The best weed eater and brushcutter combo for the price.

Pros

Cons

Blue Max 52623 Dual Line Trimmer

This Blue Max straight shaft weed eater is another machine that offers the two-in-one design, and you can switch the spool out for a heavy-duty brushcutter blade if required.

It features a powerful 42.7cc, two-stroke engine with a recoil starting system. There’s a dual-spool head for extra cutting efficiency, an anti-vibration handlebar configuration for additional comfort and control, and a 10-inch, heavy-duty brushcutter blade included.

A simple shoulder strap is part of the package for good measure.

Reward: One of the most powerful weed eaters at this price point.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman WS405 String Trimmer

The straight shaft design makes it easier to trim around bushes and hard to reach places with this Craftsman four-stroke string trimmer. The fixed-line head is designed for a 0.95-inch round line, which is a standard size and suitable for most jobs around the home.

It features a simplified, two-step starting process of prime and pull, while the engine is designed to offer quieter use*, and a multi-position handle to reduce vibration and operator fatigue.

The 29cc power is backed by a large 17-inch cutting swath, so you can trim more grass in less time and put your feet up well before sundown.

Reward: The best lightweight gas-powered weed eater.

Pros

Cons

GreenWorks ST80L210 String Trimmer

The second of our battery-operated weed eaters is this model from the hugely popular company Greenworks. It’s a powerful 80V beast with a rapid charger included, and it offers you around 45 minutes of run time when fully juiced – and that only takes half-an-hour to a maximum charge.

The brushless motor provides a lot of power, performance, and durability, with a generous 16-inch cutting path to get the job done in double-quick time.

The variable speed trigger is extremely useful for conserving power and spool line, ensuring you have a more efficient operation while reducing the need to stop and start.

Reward: The best battery weed eater for the super-fast charger.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna Gas String Trimmer 128LD

Swedish manufacturer Husqvarna produces some outstanding power tools, including some top-quality zero-turn lawnmowers. This straight shaft string trimmer joins that line-up, with their distinctive and recognizable orange livery.

It features a 28cc, two-stroke engine that provides plenty of power to the large, 17-inch cutting head with a tap-n-go release design.

The translucent fuel tank allows you to visually monitor your fuel level as you work, and the machine is fully adaptable with three other click-on attachments, including an edger to keep your walkways razor sharp.

Reward: One of the best selling commercial weed eaters on the market.

Pros

Cons

Southland Outdoor Power Equipment SWSTM4317 Trimmer

Our first walk-behind weed eater is this beast from Southland Outdoor Power Equipment. It features a whopping 43cc engine, which easily offers you up to 35% more torque than a hand-held trimmer right off the bat.

The multi-streaming trimmer head accepts 0.095-inch and 0.105-inch trimmer line, so you can choose the string that is right for your task. Heavy-duty 12-inch wheels with ball bearings provide maximum maneuverability across any terrain.

The adjustable head itself can swivel and bevel to offer you excellent directional control, while the on-board cutter ensures you get a perfect 17-inch cut diameter every single time.

Reward: The best walk-behind weed eater for the price.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna 129R String Trimmer

The handlebar/bullhorn design is a popular choice among landscaping professionals, as it offers excellent control when used in conjunction with a harness. This is one of Husqvarna’s versions, a 27.6cc, two-stroke engine with a straight shaft.

The stop switch automatically resets to the on position for easy re-start, and the air-purge requires less pulling to get the engine going in the first place, with the cord giving up to 40% less resistance.

The translucent fuel tank lets you keep tabs on your range, and a brushcutter blade is also included for those really stubborn areas.

Reward: The best easy-start commercial weed eater.

Pros

Cons

Tanaka TCG24EBSP Commercial String Trimmer

Japanese company Tanaka has been around since 1918 making innovative combustion engines. This is their commercial-grade, two-stroke, gas-powered weed eater, with a 23.9cc engine and aluminum clutch housing to prevent overheating.

The lined, solid steel drive shaft drastically reduces vibration for maximum comfort, while the built-in spindle lock eliminates the need for using tools when replacing the bump cutting head – or switching it out with a brushcutter blade.

It’s very lightweight, too, making it an ideal professional-grade tool for anyone who can’t use heavy equipment.

Reward: One of the best lightweight commercial weed eaters available.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna 967055801 String Trimmer

Speaking of Husqvarna, we’ve not had one for a while, so let’s add this 25cc, four-stroke version with a straight shaft.

It features a large cutting swath at 18-inches, translucent fuel tank, and tap-n-go bump head for easy line feed. As it’s a four-stroke, it doesn’t need that fiddly oil/fuel mixture and runs solely on unleaded gas for a longer-lasting and more durable machine.

The T25 trimmer line is easily replaced and reloaded, and the smart-start technology ensures you’ll get going in no time with as little effort as possible. Professional performance in your backyard.

Reward: One of the most durable weed eaters on the market.

Pros

Cons

Dewalt DCST990H1 String Trimmer

As far as battery-powered commercial weed eaters are concerned, this is probably the best one money can buy. What else would you expect from DeWalt?

A 40V string trimmer that will handle the toughest jobs, this machine comes with excellent feedback from others.

Featuring a patented gear drive design housed in a metal gear case for durability, a variable trigger for control over the speed and noise, and a 15-inch cutting swath, with a dual-line, bump-feed head.

Gas performance guaranteed, this is a serious piece of kit from the iconic US company.

Reward: Easily the best battery-powered weed eater there is.

Pros

Cons

Remington RM1159 String Trimmer

Never mind weed eating, let’s try weed devouring. This beast has an enormous 22-inch cutting swath, while the unique head shape makes trimming edges, flower beds, and other obstacles a breeze.

It also helps that it’s a commercial, walk-behind weed eater with a 159cc, four-stroke, gas-powered engine that will destroy any foolish foliage that dares to stand in its way.

Large, 14-inch ball-bearing wheels help you move easily over all kinds of terrain, and it’s finished with a comfortable folding handle for convenient storage and transportation.

Reward: The highest-rated walk-behind weed eater.

Pros

Cons

Makita XRU09PT1 String Trimmer

Another innovative Japanese company now with this cordless string trimmer from Makita. This is a really good value for money kit as it comes with four batteries included, offering a total of 36V of power through the brushless motor.

The direct drive system increases power and torque, while the variable speed option allows the user to match the RPMs to the task at hand. It comes ready equipped with the bump head loaded with 0.080-inch twisted line – which is the best for keeping noise to a minimum.

Aside from all that, it’s also one of the lightest weed eaters in this lineup – which is great if you’ve got a lot of ground to cover and you’re working long hours.

Reward: The best light commercial weed eater for a large property.

Pros

Cons

Swisher STP4422HO String Trimmer

First of all, and at the time of writing, if you’ve heard someone saying this is an overall bad trimmer, don’t be put off, as it’s probably unjust due to some misunderstandings on the buyer’s part. Swisher manufactures some seriously high-end commercial power equipment and this is no exception.

This walk-behind weed eater is a beast of a machine, featuring a super-strong, 4.4 horsepower, 160cc Honda engine. The off-set trimmer head is maintenance-free and will make it easy for you to negotiate those tricky spots in your (hopefully large) yard.

It offers you a merciless four-string/eight cutting line head, that will make short work of even the toughest weeds and grass. And to cap it all, it’s self-propelled, which will save you so much time and energy – especially if you’re trimming hilly terrain.

Reward: The most powerful walk-behind weed eater there is.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Commercial Weed Eater

There’s a lot to take into consideration before parting with your cash on a pricey power tool – especially if it’s your first one.

Let’s take a look at the things you should be looking out for in your new commercial weed eater.

Power Source

When it comes to commercial weed eaters, you generally have two types of power sources. They’re either going to be gas-powered, or they’re going to be a cordless rechargeable.

Corded battery-powered machines have no place on a list of the best commercial weed eaters and are only useful for smaller residential plots.

While it’s long been considered that gas versions offer the most power, in recent years the advancement of battery technology has begged to differ.

There are some particularly strong battery-powered weed eaters available that claim to offer the same torque of that of a gas trimmer.

Rechargeable Trimmers

These trimmers have numerous advantages. They need virtually no maintenance, they’re very easy to start with no priming or cord pulling required, they give off zero emissions, are super-quiet to operate, and they weigh considerably less than their gas counterparts.

However, that being said, they still can’t really compete with the sheer power you get from a quality gas engine.

They also have the obvious constraint of running out of juice eventually. They won’t be able to come close to gas-powered trimmers when it comes to range and run time.

Hence why for commercial purposes, the vast majority of weed eaters here are gas-powered.

Gas-Powered Trimmers

They have either a two-stroke or four-stroke engine (or two-cycle/four-cycle engine).

Two-stroke engines offer the most power for their engine size. They’re often the go-to choice for professional weed whackers (landscapers).

They’re not without their drawbacks, however, as they need a measured oil and gas cocktail to run, can often be very difficult to start, and are considerably noisier than four-stroke engines.

Four-stroke engines don’t quite have the oomph that the two-stroke offers, but they are easier to start, only require gas to operate, and don’t spew out nearly as many fumes. This is advantageous in certain states where strict emission regulations are in place.

Regardless of which type of engine you choose, gas power tools are still noisy, they require a lot of maintenance and upkeep, and they’re not very kind to the environment.

Whether it be a rechargeable trimmer, a gas two-stroke model or a four-stroke version, It’s up to you which one you choose, but do take into consideration these points before you make the call.

It might also depend on the following factor, too.

Size of the Job

This is really quite simple – but it still needs addressing from time to time, especially as people are often prone to purchasing power tools that are serious overkill.

Suit the selection of weed eater to the size of the job it’s being bought to do.

If you’ve got a tiny piece of land, picking up a commercial-class trimmer is going overboard. Even if you really want it.

Likewise, if you’re lucky enough to own vast acres, a lightweight, corded trimmer you could use on your mustache or legs isn’t going to be up to the task.

Use your common sense here. It will save you time and money if your power tool is perfect for the job it needs to do.

Please note, I do not advocate using a garden string trimmer on facial or body hair.

Straight and Curved Weed Eaters

The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice that some weed eaters have a curved shaft, while others come with a straight shaft. What’s the difference? It’s much more than simply cosmetic.

Curved-Shaft Trimmers

These are generally more lightweight than straight shaft versions. They can be easier to handle depending on your personal preference. They’re also a lot cheaper.

Straight-Shaft Trimmers

These are more durable than curved shafts. They allow the user to access difficult areas and provide excellent reach and control. They’re more suitable for taller users, and/or if you’re cutting weeds for extended periods of time – which is why they’re generally favored commercially.

For a more detailed explanation of curved and straight-shaft trimmers, see the relevant question in the FAQ section below.

Cutting Swath

The size of your cutting head can make a big difference in the type of weed eater you choose.

As you might expect with commercial-class weed eaters, the larger the head, the better it is.

This simply means that you will cover more ground and get the job done faster.

Look for a trimmer that has a cutting head of at least 17-inches if you’re undertaking a commercially sized job.

Type of Cutting Head

How the cutting line is extended in the trimmer’s cutting head is another thing to consider before making your purchase. Generally speaking, you’ll find there are three types of cutting head.

The Fixed Head

This is the most common type in residential-class tools.

You start by feeding the line into the spool and cut the grass until it’s worn away and needs to be replaced. It’s the most time-consuming option and you won’t find it on a good commercial trimmer.

The Bump Head

It’s exactly what you think – you bump the head of the cutter on the ground to feed more cutting string through the spool. You replace the line only when it runs out, but it can get stuck and weld together if it’s not well designed and performing.

It’s also known as a bump-n-go and can save a lot of time if used correctly.

The Automatic Head

This head features a spinning motor that keeps the cutting string at a consistent length during the job. Excellent in theory, but it does come with its own limitations and can malfunction.

For commercial-standard trimming, I prefer using a bump-head as it offers you much more control and allows you to keep going by limiting the need to stop.

Again, it’s up to your personal preference and I’m open to having my mind changed.

Type of String

The market is awash with different types of trimmer string, and rather than extend this article for several pages, head on over to check out the best string trimmer line replacement spools of 2025.

You should find all the answers you need and the right type of string you should be using in your machine.

Weight

While it might at first seem like a string trimmer is lightweight, try lugging it around for a few hours and get back to me.

After even just a few minutes, these machines can start to become very heavy.

With that in mind, it’s important to select a weed eater you’re comfortable with and you can handle throughout the length of the job.

To be honest, most professionals will use a harness with the power tool, especially if in control of a gas-powered model.

There are lightweight trimmers available, but if you’ve got a lot of ground to cover you should consider investing in a good harness to shoulder some of the load.

Trust me – it makes all the difference.

Cost

Commercial weed eaters don’t come cheap – although there are certainly bargains to be had.

Again, I must stress that you should spend what you can afford, and only on something that fits the task it is required to do.

A $900 Swisher model is a waste of money on a backyard with not enough room to swing a cat.

FAQs

What Is a String Trimmer Used For?

A string trimmer is mostly used to cut back on unwanted undergrowth in your garden or yard.

Its main purpose is to tidy up after you have mowed your lawn – as your lawnmower won’t be able to reach all the areas in your garden.

String trimmers are perfect for cutting vegetation around obstacles, close to brick, concrete or woodwork, or simply anywhere your lawnmower can’t venture.

String trimmers can also be used to edge a lawn – keeping a nice neat edge along walkways, flower beds, water features, or anything else you might have in your yard.

Do I Need a String Trimmer?

I always say that you don’t need one – especially if your yard is on the smaller side. For smaller plots of land, it’s much better to use a manual edger or long-handled shears to keep the weeds at bay and keep the grass in order.

However, if your yard or garden is much larger, then a string trimmer is highly recommended as it will make the job much easier and halve the time it takes to do it.

They’re also a big help for anyone who can’t do manual garden work – as using hand shears will seriously take it out of you.

What Is a Weed Eater?

Exactly the same as a string trimmer, trimmer, weed whacker, strimmer, or any other strange name they might be known by all around the world.

It’s a garden tool for cutting grass and groundcover that uses a flexible, monofilament line to chop down unwanted foliage.

Don’t confuse this machine with a brushcutter – which uses a rotating blade or chain and is a much more powerful machine.

They’re used for seriously heavy-duty jobs that include clearing denser grass, very tough weeds, and even small trees and shrubs.

Most residential homeowners will have no need for a brush cutter on their property. They should only be handled by someone who really knows what they’re doing.

How Do I Clean and Maintain My Weed Eater?

Weed eaters – particularly gas-powered models – need regular maintenance to ensure they’re performing at maximum capacity and last as long as possible.

You should clean your machine immediately after using it to cut grass or weeds, as if the debris is left to dry out it can be harder to remove. Use a stiff brush to clean anything off that shouldn’t be there.

Regularly check (and replace – if required) fuel and air filters if you’re using a gas-powered machine.

Air filters should be washed in detergent and hot water after every 10 hours of use. Rinse well and let it dry. Lightly soak with clean motor oil to prevent anything from getting sucked into the engine.

Fuel lines and primer/purge valves should be in good working order, with no cracks or leakages.

Replace the spark plug roughly every 25-30 hours of use. If it’s damaged, eroded, or blackened in any way – replace it immediately.

The throttle cable should be in good working order, with nothing impeding its operation. Tighten the handle and guard to ensure continued safe and comfortable use.

Replace the string line if required. See the article on replacing the string line for detailed information

Warning: remember to switch the machine completely off, empty the gas tank and remove the spark plug (if present) before attempting any maintenance on your weed eater.

What Is The Best Gas String Trimmer For The Money?

Without trying and testing them all, it’s difficult to say. Everyone has their personal favorites, and opinions differ wildly between professional landscapers.

If I was backed into a corner and had to choose the best gas-powered string trimmer – I would almost certainly go with a Honda.

They are more expensive than other models, but you get what you pay for.

Which Company Makes The Best Weed Eaters?

Take your pick between Honda, Husqvarna, DeWalt, Greenworks, Poulan Pro, and Black & Decker to name a small, inexhaustive list.

My personal favorites are Honda, DeWalt, and Greenworks. Let me know which you prefer and why.

Why Are Curved Shaft Trimmers Cheaper? What’s The Difference?

I touched on this debate in the buyer’s guide above, but for more information and an in-depth look at the differences between straight and curved-shaft trimmers (and why one is more expensive than the other) refer to the video below.

How Often Should I Use My Weed Eater?

Remember that all weed eaters are dispersing microplastic into the environment, so even if it’s not a gas-powered model it’s still having an impact on mother earth.

With that in mind, you should try to limit how often you use your trimmer – and always do your best to clean up after yourself when you do.

This is why it’s useful to purchase brightly-colored line, so you have a better chance of locating and disposing of as much of it as possible when the job is done.

It’s actually up to you and your lawn when you use your trimmer. Mowing and trimming tend to go hand in hand, so whenever your patch of land is becoming unruly, perhaps it’s time to bring out the big guns and cut it down to size?

What’s The Difference Between A Trimmer And An Edger?

A very good question and I’m glad you asked. However, instead of me opening that can of worms here, might I direct you to this rather informative article on that very subject.

Read my article about Edger vs Trimmer and you will find out exactly what you’re looking for.

In short – there is a big difference, and you should get one of each.

What Safety Equipment Do I Need To Use With a String Trimmer?

Another very good question and one I always like to touch on when talking about any kind of power tool.

Weed eaters – particularly the gas variety – tend to be very loud indeed. Especially two-stroke engines, or engines with a lot of power.

Ear Protectors

Are absolutely essential. There’s no ifs or buts about this – if you’re using a loud trimmer, you need to protect your ears.

Even if you can stand the noise for a while, you’re doing lasting damage to your hearing. This is particularly true of landscapers or regular trimmers.

Eye Protectors

Also, imperative. Even with a cutting guard, the very nature of these machines ensures that debris is going to be constantly flying everywhere.

Sharp objects, stones, glass, and even grass clippings can all cause serious damage and injury when launched through the air at high speed, and there have been fatalities. Wearing eye goggles is the very least you should do.

Harness

A harness is highly recommended for long periods of weed whacking. Don’t overlook the damage this job can do to your back.

When using a heavy machine, or tackling a large job, you’re going to need all the help you can get.

High-Visibility Jacket

This could be needed for those of you working anywhere that’s public – especially if its along roadways. Most homeowners won’t need to go that far, but if you need to maintain a stretch of lawn along a busy thoroughfare – it’s not a bad idea to be clearly seen.

Work Gloves

Protective gloves should always be worn – commercially cutting or not. The vibrations these machines give off can be very uncomfortable and can seriously damage and chafe your hands. The added grip they offer is also very advantageous.

For a more detailed look at all the protective things you should consider, read this article.

Summary

A beast of an article to cover these beast machines. Finding the best commercial weed eaters has not been an easy task, but I hope this piece has gone someway to pointing you in the right direction.

As for me, if I was forced to choose between them, I’d go for the DeWalt battery-powered model.

Yes, it’s not gas and purists would say it’s not commercial, but I think it’s a top-quality tool that will suit most homeowners right down to the ground they’re going to be cutting.

Let me know which machine you prefer and why.

Happy weed eating/trimming/strimming/weed whacking/whipper snipping!

I get it. We all are.

And the last thing you want to be doing when there aren’t enough hours in the day – is taking an age to mow your lawn.

Especially if you happen to have quite a lot of it.

Enter – the zero-turn lawnmower.

If you’ve got anything above half an acre of land and you don’t have one of these babies – you’re doing it wrong.

Invented in 1949, the ingenious 360-degree turning system has developed over the years, but it’s still enabling gardeners to get the job done in double-quick time.

So, read on to discover the best commercial zero-turn mowers for use on your land.

Let’s “turn on a dime and save time.”

The 9 Best Commercial Zero-Turn Mowers for 2025

Troy-Bilt Mustang Fit Riding Lawn Mower

Founded in 1937 and revolutionizing the rototiller, Ohio-based Troy-Bilt continue to break new ground with their line of lawn care power tools.

This is a relatively compact zero-turn mower with a cutting deck of 34-inches, but the 452cc engine with EZT hydrostatic transmission packs enough power to mow large areas of rough grass.

There’s an operator-controlled, mow-in-reverse capability, all from the comfort of a high-backed seat with suspension springs and extra room in the footwell.

Featuring an extra-wide side discharge, durable wheels for tough terrain, and lap-bar steering, the Troy-Bilt Mustang is perfect for taking your mowing game to the next level.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman Zero Turn Riding Lawn Mower

Now under the umbrella of Stanley Black & Decker, Craftsman has been in the game since 1927 manufacturing tools, lawn and garden equipment, and workwear.

This machine offers a 24 horsepower, Briggs & Stratton engine, which utilizes ReadyStart technology for a fast efficient start. The generous, 54-inch cutting deck has an integrated deck wash and is one of the largest decks available at this price point.

Durable 11-inch front and 20-inch rear wheels are built to last and provide greater clearance for your mow while being able to handle tougher terrain, and the dual hydro-gear drive system offers the power and control you need to get the job done.

Pros

Cons

Snapper Riding Zero Turn Mower

Founded way back in 1890, Snapper built the first self-propelled rotary lawn mower in 1951. This particular model is packed with features, making it one of the finest commercial-grade zero-turn mowers you can buy.

With a 48-inch cutting deck and 23 horsepower engine, it’s certainly got the power and size to breeze through the toughest jobs.

A fully-welded steel frame, thick-walled front axle, durable mower deck, and ball bearings in the caster spindles ensure durability and a great cut across the board.

The foot-operated height adjustment gives you an excellent 13 different height options for total control, while the integrated rear cargo bed offers unrivaled versatility in this class.

Pros

Cons

Troy-Bilt Mustang 54-Inch Zero-Turn Mower

A step up from the previous Troy-Bilt Mustang, this 54-inch zero-turn mower is ideal if you need a bit more from your machine.

It’s powered by 25 horsepower Briggs & Stratton Intek twin-cylinder engine with an added oil filter and a dual hydro-static transmission for ultimate performance and control.

The wide-deck has four castor wheels and a rear roller added for extra efficiency and smooth performance over your terrain. A dual deck wash is built to help with clean up, and you can have a top forward speed of 7 mph and a reverse speed of 2.5 mph.

It’s finished with a comfortable high-backed seat and dual suspension springs that make this Mustang a joy to ride.

Pros

Cons

Beast 62ZBBM20 Zero Turn Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

The Beast 62ZBBM20 is a zero-turn mower that is faster than most comparable mowers out there. Its 25hp engine makes sure that you can blaze through the grass at a consistent 12 mph.

A powerful engine also requires lots of fuel. Thankfully, the Beast 62ZBBM20 can hold 7.5 gallons of gas.

Finally, the mower is incredibly safe to drive thanks to the built-in roll cage and seat belt.

So, be it a lawn or a golf course, the Beast 62ZBBM20 will spell doom for the grass, while keeping you safe.

Pros

Cons

John Deere Z345M Zero Turn Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

For mowing medium to large lawns, the John Deere Z345M is a perfect choice. It has a 22HP engine with a top speed of 7mph.

The deck is 42 inches with 3 large blades ensuring that you can cut more grass. The cutting height is also adjustable.

And to make the deal even sweeter, John Deere sensibly made the engine able to start like a car rather than a mower. Eliminating pull-to-start is great because a lot of people struggle with the pulling mechanism.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna Briggs & Stratton Hydrostatic Zero-Turn Mower

Swedish company Husqvarna is something of a household name when it comes to zero-turn mowers, and they’re never too far away from reviews such as this one.

Powered by a Briggs & Stratton engine with 27 horsepower and a hydrostatic transmission, this is one of their top-rated zero-turn lawnmowers and a great addition to any tool shed.

It offers a reliable start and excellent ground speed, cutting the lawn with a 61-inch deck that features an ergonomically designed deck-lifting system so you can raise and lower the cutting height from your driving position.

Clippings can be discharged, mulched or bagged with a nine-bushel triple bag collection system, while the high-backed seat has armrests, foam-padded handgrips, and vibration dampeners.

Over any kind of terrain, this zero-turn, ride-on lawnmower is one of the very best on the market.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna Kawasaki Hydrostatic Zero-Turn Mower

This version is slightly adapted from the previous Husqvarna model, notable for a few key differences. This time it’s a Kawasaki motor on board, offering 24 horsepower which provides excellent speed in both forward and reverse.

It also incorporates the Roll Over Protection System (ROPS) which is a very advisable safety feature if you’re mowing hills or tough terrain and you need extra peace of mind.

Aside from that, it’s got all the same quality features you would come to expect from a 61-inch zero-turn mower from one of the world’s leading power tool brands.

Pros

Cons

RYOBI RY48ZTR100 Zero Turn Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

The RYOBI RY48ZTR100 is an electric lawnmower. You charge it and use it. And although it is less powerful than comparable gasoline-powered offerings, the benefits more than make up for it.

First up, you don’t have to worry about the maintenance and cleanup costs that are inevitable when dealing with gasoline mowers. You only need to charge a battery.

Second, while riding you can also charge your phone. In a world where we are always browsing Facebook, this is a neat feature to have.

Finally, the 42-inch deck is wide enough to cut a large area, making the RYOBI RY48ZTR100 a nice option for mowing a large lawn.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Right Commercial Zero-Turn Mower

There’s quite a lot to consider before you click the “add to cart” button, especially if you’re new to zero-turn mowers.

With that in mind, I’ve put together this short guide to help you make a decision. Here are some of the things you should be looking out for.

Deck Size

Perhaps the most important consideration when choosing a ride-on lawnmower of any kind, is how large you need the cutting deck to be.

The larger the lawn or yard, the more inches of deck you’re going to need to get the job done in double-quick time.

Below, I’ve added a simple explanation to help you pick the correct deck size for your land.

Less than ½ acre – 40-inch deck or less.

½ acre-2 acres – 40-50 inch deck.

2 acres and above – 50-inch deck and above.

Remember, having a larger deck might not always mean a faster mowing time. It will also depend on other factors, such as the machine’s horsepower, and any obstacles you might encounter during the job.

The Brand

You’ll notice I’ve included a little background info on all the brands in this review.

That’s because, when you’re spending this much money, it’s nice to know you’re buying something from a quality, reputable company.

When choosing your new commercial zero-turn lawnmower, it really comes down to your personal preference as to which brand comes out on top.

You might have had previous experience with one more than the other – and this will help inform your decision.

Also, carefully read the reviews, as customers who are more familiar with certain companies will waste no time in telling you what they think of them – good or bad – while speaking from valuable experience.

Transmission

With riding lawnmowers, there are usually three types of transmission. Manual, automatic, and hydrostatic.

There’s no need to go into a detailed explanation on manual and automatic because, with zero-turn mowers, nearly all of them offer hydrostatic transmission.

The hydrostatic transmission does away with pulley and belt systems, instead opting to use variable displacement pumps which use fluid flow to power a motor.

The pump uses pressurized oil to move pistons in the drive system. The pistons power the hydrostatic motor, which then turns the wheels on the lawnmower.

As such, you get more power and more maneuverability than any other form of transmission. The response time is also much faster, so it allows you to change direction and speed easily.

You can see how this would be an advantage on a zero-turn lawnmower. Many also include the option of cruise control, so you can let the machine do even more of the work for you.

Horsepower

The more horsepower you have under the hood of a zero-turn lawnmower (or any engine for that matter) the faster it will go.

How much you need will depend on the size of your land, and/or how long you’re willing to spend maintaining it.

Opt for the most power you can afford – but remember to make sure you’re also buying a mower with the correct cutting deck size, too.

Faster doesn’t always mean better – for you or your garden. Choose something you’re also comfortable controlling.

Fuel Capacity

Another factor that’s often overlooked, a lawnmower’s fuel capacity might make or break your decision.

As with a lot of these points, it all comes down to the size of the land you want to mow. Nobody wants to be stopping to top up the fuel tank midway through the job. At least, if you don’t actually have to.

How much fuel it’s going to take to cut your lawn can be tricky to calculate.

It will depend on the type of mower, its horsepower/speed, weight, the weight of the occupant, the weight of any accessories attached, the quality of the terrain, and the length of the grass – just to name a few variables.

When in doubt, try and opt for the largest fuel tank you can. At the end of the day, you’ll spend less time filling it up – and that’s more money in your pocket.

FAQs

What is a Zero-Turn Lawn Mower?

A zero-turn lawn mower is a grass-cutting power tool that doesn’t have a turning circle.

Basically, it can pivot 360 degrees on the spot. “Turns on a dime to save time” is the common catchphrase.

While there are walk-behind zero-turn mowers available, for the most part (and in the case of this review) they are ride-on machines.

You’ll notice that they don’t have steering wheels, instead, they utilize two levers to control direction, speed, forward and reverse. And, of course, braking.

For more information on how they work and how to operate one, keep reading!

How Do I Drive a Zero-Turn Mower?

They’re not as complex as you might think, but it does take a little bit of practice getting used to the system.

Especially if you’re only used to driving with a steering wheel.

It’s important you do get a feel for the mower before you begin cutting your grass, however, as you can damage your yard if you don’t know what you’re doing.

There have been a number of reviews that discredit the mower itself, blaming the machine for a poor job.

This is not the case – a bad workperson always blames their tools and with the correct application and use, a zero-turn mower should not be damaging anything.

With that in mind, check out the informative video below which is packed full of useful tips for how to operate a zero-turn lawnmower successfully.

Very useful if you’re a total noob.

Do I Really Need a Zero-Turn Lawn Mower?

It depends on the size of your yard and if you’re willing to pay extra for the technology as opposed to simply using a walk-behind or ride-on.

There’s no doubt they save loads of time, but they don’t come cheap and can set you back a fair bit of coin.

They’re also not ideal if you have particularly hilly terrain to cover – zero-turn mowers are only really suitable for flat surfaces.

It’s up to you if you think you need a zero-turn mower. If your land is big enough, you have the space for storage, and you can afford one, then it makes a sound investment that will save you time and money in the long run.

What are the Advantages of a Zero-Turn Lawn Mower?

There are several advantages to using a zero-turn lawnmower.

They’re easy to handle, highly maneuverable, and can shave hours off the time it would usually take you to do a big lawn care job.

They can also negotiate obstacles with ease – providing your cutting deck isn’t too large.

And with the time you save cutting the grass, a world of possibilities might open up for you for doing other things.

(You’ll also save a stack of money.)

What are the Disadvantages of a Zero-Turn Lawn Mower?

There aren’t many, but the downsides of a zero-turn lawnmower will be significant to some potential users.

First of all – they’re expensive. Exorbitantly expensive. This is a luxury, so think carefully if you really need to spend 5K on something that could do the same job for under a grand.

They’re also not ideal for hills. There is a danger that you can flip a zero-turn mower if you’re not careful. This is why some models come with roll bars as standard.

Furthermore, they can be a little too much to handle for some people. There is certainly a steeper learning curve with a zero-turn mower than there is with any other garden power tool.

Summary

There you have it, folks, the most popular commercial zero-turn mowers available today. I hope this review has gone some way to helping you choose the right model for your needs.

As for me, if I were in the market for such a beast, I would go for the Troy-Bilt Mustang with a cargo bed.

I think it’s one of the most versatile mowers around, powerful enough, still at an affordable price, and with plenty of options to accessorize.

If you are interested in other types of lawn mowers we have you covered as well.

Let me know which model you would choose and why.

Happy zero-turning!

How can you change that?

It turns out that mowing weeds can help to control them, but it can also help to spread them if it’s not done correctly. With the correct mowing practices, you can get your weed problem under control.

And it’s easier than you think!

In this post, you’ll find out if mowing weeds spreads them and what you can do about it.

In Short

To Mow or Not to Mow? Is it a Good Idea to Mow Weeds?

News flash!

Mowing weeds is actually an effective form of weed control.

Here’s the catch, though. It’s only highly effective when mowing weeds that are still young plants and only spreads through seed propagation. The idea is that if you trim them back before they can spread their seeds, they will eventually die out. Then, the spread will be over!

But wait, there’s more to the story!

You can’t just whip out the mower and go wild! If you’re mowing weeds, you must ensure that there’s a clippings bag attached to your mower. This is to trap any pesky seeds so that they can’t spread.

Does Mowing Weeds Really Spread Them, and How?

Weeds that spread by means of seeding can be a hassle to get under control, but it’s not impossible.

Here’s the honest truth…

Weed seeds have a nasty habit of being stored in the earth for many years and slowly reappearing over time. Mowing can be used to get rid of weeds over the long term.

It’s a process that requires time and consistent effort, but the payoff is well worth it.

When Mowing Won’t Work as Effective Weed Control

Sadly, mowing isn’t the sole solution to a weed problem. Mowing may help control seed-spreading weeds, but it’s an entirely new ball game regarding weeds that spread through stolons or runners. These weeds will continue to spread even if you mow them.

What’s the solution?

Herbicide, aka weed killer, made specifically for weeds, should be applied to the affected area.

There’s more bad news…

Certain weeds, such as the infamous Bindiis, grow super-low to the ground, making it impossible for a mower to reach them. In this instance, a weed specific herbicide is the answer.

Lastly, another scenario where mowing won’t work is if you’ve left it too late and the weeds have matured. In this case, some of the seeds may have already dropped and be spreading, so they won’t be trapped in your clippings bag.

Is Pulling Weeds Before Mowing an Option?

If you’re worried that your mowing schedule won’t be enough to keep weeds at bay, you may start to think of innovative control techniques, such as pulling weeds out before you mow the lawn.

When considering if mowing spreads weeds, it’s only natural to think that pulling weeds will help the problem.

And the clincher is this…

Pulling weeds out before mowing is undoubtedly the best course of action. In fact, if you manage to pull out the weeds when they are small and haven’t had a chance to bloom, you stand a better chance of getting rid of them completely than just by mowing them.

Tips to Consider when Pulling Weeds Before Mowing

Do This One Thing if You’ve Already Mowed Mature Weeds with Seeds

If you’ve already mowed mature weeds and started the spread of seeds, you may be worried that the weed problem will soon become insurmountable.

Don’t fret! There’s a solution, and it’s called a pre-emergent!

Pre-emergent is a granular herbicide that is typically sprinkled on the surface of the lawn in the affected area. It stops weed seeds from germinating.

How does it work?

With watering, the pre-emergent dissolves and soaks into the soil where it forms a barrier around the seeds. You can reapply pre-emergent every 12 weeks to keep seed germination at bay.

Something to be aware of…

Pre-emergent doesn’t discriminate. So, if you’ve applied to the soil in a specific area, the weed seeds won’t germinate, but other seeds (even beneficial ones) won’t germinate there either.

How Do You Stop Your Mower From Spreading Seeds?

It may feel like your mower is working against you, and you may want to drop to your knees and wail, “Why is my mower spreading seeds?”?” but the reality is that your mower is just a mower, and it’s up to you to take precautions to stop weed seed spread.

Does mowing weeds spread them? We’ve come to the conclusion that it can.

But here are some tips to follow to stop your mower from spreading weeds:

In Summary

In closing, does mowing seeds spread them? Mowing doesn’t necessarily have to spread weeds in your lawn if it is done correctly.

That said, if you don’t take the necessary precautions, mowing weeds can spread them. Use the tips above to get a better handle on your mowing when dealing with a weed problem.

Do you have any tips and tricks for managing weeds in lawn that you’d like to share? Leave your comments below.

You think you are doing everything right – mowing, watering, fertilizing – but all of a sudden, you start noticing unsightly yellow or brown patches or weird white dust-like substance. If you are really unlucky, these begin to spread – and you don’t have a clue what happened.

That’s just one of the scenarios when you find yourself face to face with lawn diseases.

What can we do to prevent and combat lawn disease?

In this article, I will teach you a few things about common lawn diseases. We will look at some of the trickiest and most dangerous turf grass diseases, the reasons for their occurrence, and what you can do to stop them. When you’re done with reading, you’ll be skilled in identifying lawn problems.

Identifying the disease is the key to defeating it, so pay special attention to the Lawn Disease Identification section.

What is Turf Disease?

Just like when we talk about human or animal disease, lawn turf disease can also be caused by various pathogens. While bacteria and viruses are the most common causes of animal disease, fungus (molds) rank high on the pathogen list in the plant world, especially among turf grasses.

There are many species of fungus that can attack your lawn under right (or should I say wrong) conditions. All of them have a signature look, and later we will learn to identify them.

Another type of lawn “disease” is pest attack. While it may look like a disease, it is mechanical damage by insects or other critters that leads to growth irregularities and wilting.

Why Lawn Diseases Occur?

Turf diseases usually don’t strike at random. Fungi and their spores are everywhere and are a natural part of every lawn.

When all the biological factors are in balance, they don’t cause disease.

However, when something in the environment or within the plant itself is out of order, fungi can proliferate and become a problem.

Three main factors contribute to the actual manifestation of the disease.

Below the leading causes, I’ll list reasons for their presentation:

Weather conditions that favor the proliferation of the fungus

Weak or feeble turf

Aggressive or inadequate management practices

Another reason why a classic lawn is vulnerable to plant diseases is that it is a monoculture.

That means that a typical lawn consists of one grass species only. When a pathogen becomes adapted to a particular grass species, it can quickly spread to all neighboring plants with no barrier.

It wasn’t always like that. In the old days – 19th and early 20th century – lawn seeds were sold as mixes rather than seeds of a single species.

Relative severity of selected diseases on five cool-season turf species.

— = rare; no symptoms, not susceptible.
+ = sporadic; damage is mostly cosmetic and has a short duration.
++ = sporadic; cosmetic damage is of major concern, and structural injury will lead to thin, poor quality turf.
+++ = sporadic; cosmetic damage and serious structural injury to turf depending on the extent and duration of the outbreak.
++++ = chronic; potential for severe structural injury that will affect appearance and playability for unacceptable periods.

Lawn Disease Identification

Let’s look at some of the most dangerous, treatment-resistant, but also most common lawn diseases.

The type of infection you can expect to appear on the lawn depends on the climate, current weather, and the time of the year.

As you will see with each disease, management (also called cultural) practices can either increase or decrease disease susceptibility.

Pythium Blight and Other Pythium Turf Diseases

Pythium is a genus of fungi that causes various diseases in turfgrasses and other plants. Pythium blight of turfgrass is the best known of all of them, infamous for its quick spread, high mortality of affected plants, and extensive turf loss.

If you don’t try to stop the disease and the weather conditions don’t become less favorable for Pythium spread, large turf areas can completely die off in only a few days.

At the onset of the disease, you will notice relatively small round patches of water-soaked, dark, “greased” grass in short-mown turfs. During dew hours early in the morning, you may also see cottony white mycelium. When turf dies, it becomes matted.

Cause of Pythium Blight on Lawns

The disease is of fungal origin, with Pythium fungi being the cause. Although several Pythium species can cause blight, Pythium aphanidermatum is most commonly to blame.

However, weather plays a vital role in the spread of the disease. Pythium aphanidermatum outbreaks occur during summer days with long dew periods (lasting 14 hours or more), late afternoon rains, and evening temperatures are at least 68°F.

They are most common in low areas where dew forms early in the evening and remains until the morning.

Unlike some other diseases which thrive in low-fertility soils, Pythium loves to attack lush turfs with high or excessive nitrogen in the ground.

Affected Grass Species

How To Fight Pythium Blight

Applying fungicides to fight Pythium is tricky and is best left to professionals. The fungicides efficient against Pythium are used in recommended tank mixes.

They must be rotated among Further Resistance Management Recommendations for Modes of Action (FRAC) groups because it’s the only way to prevent fungicide resistance development.

Management Practices to Fight Pythium Blight

Dollar Spot Disease in Grass

Dollar spot is a fungal turf disease that got its name from its beginning manifestation – straw-colored or whitish circles the size of a silver dollar, 1-3 inches in diameter.

In time, they can spread to be 6 inches wide. In severe cases, circles will merge, forming large irregularly-shaped blocks of affected grass, usually sunken.

On humid nights or in the dew-rich mornings when the fungus is active, you may be able to notice cotton-like or cobweb-like growth too.

When you look at the grass blades, you will see small white-to-straw-colored patches, often with brown or reddish-brown hourglass-shaped margins.

Cause of Dollar Spot Disease on Lawns

The pathogen behind the dollar spot disease is the fungus Clarireedia jacksonii, although, in literature, you will also find it under its former name, Sclerotinia homoeocarpa.

It is active from May to October and appearing in temperatures ranging from 60 to 90°F. It prefers the weather pattern with warm days, cool nights, and heavy dew.

Beyond weather, C. jacksonii also prefers a particular type of soil. It gets most severe in dry soils with low nitrogen. Also, it stays dormant and survives unfavorable periods in the thatch, so having a thatch-filled lawn is also a contributing factor to the fungus survival and proliferation.

The fungus can be spread by mowers, golf carts, shoes, and by wind and water. Because of that, and because of frequent chemical treatments, golf courses are especially susceptible.

Affected Species of Grass

How to Combat Dollar Spot Disease

The dollar spot disease is notoriously fungicide-resistant, especially in the case of frequent and heavy treatments of the lawn.

Unfortunately, if you want to rely on fungicide treatment as a sole way of controlling the disease, you are in for a lot of work with an uncertain result.

Preventive treatments during the favorable season, changing and using fungicide of different fungicide classes, and avoiding fungicide that the C. jacksonii has the most resistance to are some basic instructions. However, you may benefit from professional advice.

Everyone agrees that using cultural practices that sabotage the fungus, with or without chemical management, is the central pillar of fighting dollar spot disease.

Anthracnose Lawn Disease in Grass

Anthracnose is a fungal disease that appears in two forms:

Foliar blight symptoms look like yellow and brown, irregular patches on turf at the beginning. Soon, the patches turn tan, and the grass dies.

A look under the magnifying glass can reveal black, hair-like structures representing the fungus’ flowering. It can look similar to extreme drought stress, but the main difference is that the symptoms are made worse instead of less severe with watering.

Basal root symptoms include yellowing of the leaves, the brick red color of the youngest blades, and black root at the blades’ base. When the fungus infects the growing part of the plant, the recovery is slow and uncertain.

Cause of Anthracnose Disease on Lawns

Anthracnose is caused by the fungus called Colletotrichum cereale. The disease has become much more aggressive in recent years in places of intensive turf management such as golf courses.

Anthracnose lives and survives in plant debris, living as a saprophyte – an organism that feeds on dead matter.

However, when the grass is stressed from heat, low mowing, poor drainage, heavy foot traffic, too much thatch, and nutrient deficiency, the fungus can turn on the living plants.

Affected Species of Grass

The disease commonly strikes at golf courses.

How to Combat Anthracnose Lawn Disease

As with the dollar spot disease, Anthracnose is hard to treat with fungicides. It responds better to preventive treatments rather than curative ones.

If the treatment is needed and unavoidable, it is best to get anthracnose while it is in its foliar stage.

The weapon of choice is a multi-site fungicide protectant such as chlorothalonil, plus a systemic penetrant fungicide.

As with other hard-to-treat diseases, it is much better to try to work on anthracnose prevention via good lawn management practices.

Bacterial Diseases of Turfgrass

Here’s something to add to the variety. Besides fungal diseases, turfgrass can also be affected by harmful bacteria.

While similar in appearance, there is one major difference between bacterial and fungal diseases. While fungi can attack otherwise healthy turf if the weather conditions are right, turf bacterial infections occur almost exclusively due to stress and aggressive management practices.

Causes of Lawn Bacterial Disease

Bacteria called Xanthomonas translucens pv. poae causes bacterial wilt in annual bluegrass, while Acidovorax avenae subsp. avenae causes paleness and a general decline in bentgrass.

Because the causes and the symptoms are similar, the two diseases are often described as one. Also, other diseases can occur along with bacterial infection.

The first symptoms are small, yellow spots; soo, thinning of turf begins to show, especially in high-traffic areas. Another characteristic symptom is etiolation – pale-yellowing and elongation of the leaves as if the plant was growing without sunlight. Collapse and death may also occur.

As for the weather conditions, bacterial turf decline usually occurs in high humidity when daytime temperatures are in mid-80s F.

The bacterial turf diseases develop in places of high turf stress – intense grooming, heat and drought, low nitrogen levels, and increased traffic.

Another significant factor is mowing. Mowers can transmit bacteria between different lawn segments, and mowing cuts on the leaves serve as an entry point for the microorganisms.

That is how contaminated mowers can disseminate the disease. Low mowing also contributes to the general susceptibility of the lawn to stress and diseases.

How to Fight Bacterial Wilt

Unfortunately, conventional bacteria-killing treatments don’t exist for this disease. The most you can do in chemical management is to use plant growth regulators (PGRs).

However, it is sort of a gamble because PGRs can make the situation better or worse. The effects depend on many factors such as the active ingredient in question, concentration, and environmental conditions.

On the other hand, management practices can do no damage. Here’s what to do to curb the spread of turf bacteriosis.

Other Lawn Diseases (and What to do About Them)

The lawn disease list is really long (and many of them have pretty vivid names). I’ll just name a few: Fairy Ring, Powdery Mildew, Slime Mold, Gray Snow Mold, Pink Snow Mold, Brown Patch, Take All Patch, Summer Patch, Necrotic Ring Spot, and so on.

Although the exact treatment for each may vary, there are several steps that work in stopping all lawn diseases.

If you analyze the previously mentioned management practices, you could draw out the conclusion yourself, but here is the “best-of” list for your convenience.

Conclusion

While different pathogens prefer different hosts (grass species) and variable climatic conditions, the golden rule with all lawn diseases is that prevention is better than the cure.

Using best management practices is the most efficient way to prevent lawn disease.

If the disease does occur, make sure that chemical treatments are also according to the best available techniques, and make sure to get it fast – diseases like Pythium blight can kill a large chunk of your lawn in only a few days.

Do you have any problems with lawn diseases? What was the worst one to strike your turf? How do you manage? Help others by sharing your precious experience in the comments.

But I’m sure you’d agree that it’s better to achieve that without the use of harmful chemicals.

So, if you’re wondering whether there is a safe alternative to Roundup, then you’re in the right place!

It is definitely possible to maintain your garden without resorting to harmful chemicals. Keep reading to find out the best alternatives to Roundup and other chemical herbicides.

Key Points

Why Should I Consider an Alternative to Roundup?

There are many reasons to think seriously about finding an alternative to Roundup for your weed control.

The main reasons for concern surround the environmental and human health risks of glyphosate, the active ingredient. The World Health Organization has listed it as a probable human carcinogen while a host of other health risks, including fertility and immunity issues, are suspected.

However, since the entire ingredient list is not disclosed and legally is allowed to be kept a trade secret, scientists have been unable to study what else might be included in the mixture. Some have proposed that the cocktail of chemicals together once the whole solution is considered might actually be more harmful than glyphosate by itself. Scary, right?

Consequences for the environment include impacts on the local ecosystem and its waterways. Studies have found traces of glyphosate in many waterways throughout the United States, including rainwater!

But even if these risks don’t concern you, there are significant ethical issues in supporting a large multi-national corporation that has the power to win almost any legal battle that it’s threatened with through sheer money-power and is therefore rarely held accountable for its actions. Monsanto, now owned by Bayer, is still facing millions of dollars worth of lawsuits in the US.

What are the Best Alternatives to Roundup?

Aside from the organic alternatives that should be available in your local garden store, there are also some DIY options that can be safe and effective.

Hand Pull Regularly

In most parts of your garden, but especially your vegetable garden, the safest and most reliable form of weed control is regular manual removal. If you can stay on top of the weed population by removing weeds as they arrive, while they’re still small and before they establish themselves and spread seeds, then weed management will never be a huge issue for you.

Giving the top inch of soil a quick hoe once per week is enough to dislodge any small weeds that are starting to grow. Often you don’t even need to remove them with this method.

Boiling Water

Boiling water works really well in places like the edge of a driveway or cracks between paving slabs. Simply pull up what you can and then pour boiling water on the remaining stems.

You can also simply pour boiling water on the leaves of smaller weeds but for bigger weeds, it may not successfully kill the roots if you do this.

If you’re looking for more options for managing weeds on your driveway, I have an article dedicated to that here.

Vinegar

Vinegar, ideally at 20-30% acetic acid concentration, makes for an excellent homemade weed spray. Mix it up in a spray bottle with a little dish soap and a pinch of table salt and then spray on the leaves of the weeds that you want to remove.

Borax

Borax, or sodium borate, is a naturally occurring substance that dissolves in water. Mix about 10 ounces of the powder in 2.5 gallons of water and spray on weeds as required.

Salt

Salt is a highly effective weed killer. It will happily kill all but the most resilient coastal plant species so you will need to be really careful how and where you apply it. It is not good for soil health or for surrounding plants when used in excess.

To make a spray solution, mix 1 part salt with 8 parts warm water and a little cooking oil or dish soap. Spray the leaves of the plant that you want to kill.

Corn Gluten

Corn gluten works as a preventative measure for weeds that haven’t arrived yet, though it doesn’t do anything for weeds that are already established. The application prevents seeds from germinating while not having any effect on surrounding plants. It can be a good option in rock beds or gravel paths.

Flame Weeder

Flame weeding is an excellent chemical-free option for killing weeds while not compromising soil health in any way. You do need to be careful about not hitting any plants that you want to keep alive, but flame weeding is easy and effective and a great option for places like rock beds and pathways.

Weed Eater

Last but not least, another great non-chemical option for weed removal is a trimmer or weed eater. They won’t kill the weeds down to their roots but semi-regular trimming can keep everything under control to the point where a few weeds aren’t really an issue.

Note: Even though these methods are much safer than using Roundup, you still want to protect yourself and be careful not to get the mixtures on your skin or near your eyes, especially with borax and high concentration vinegar.

If you choose to go for the weed eater, you could also be interested in learning more about different types of lawn mowers, that could allow you take care of your lawn in different situations.

A Few Tips for Maximum Effectiveness

Once you decide on the natural Roundup alternative that you want to use, there are still things you can do to maximize its effectiveness.

Hot and Dry Works Best

Choosing a hot day is a good idea, the plant will already be a little stressed from the heat and generally speaking, adding heat to any scenario makes the results more dramatic.

Waiting until the morning dew has dried out and applying your Roundup alternative to dry leaves will also make it more effective. If you’re wondering whether this rule applies to the grass too, I have an article about whether you can spray weed killer on wet grass that will answer all of your questions.

Mix Up Your Approaches

It pays to be flexible in your approach and use a combination of methods depending on your situation. Boiling water and salt is an excellent option for pathways and driveways and places where you don’t want anything to grow.

Meanwhile, manual removal is a better option in vegetable gardens or flower beds, and using a weed whacker or flame weeder is a great choice if you have a large patch of overgrown weeds.

Know Your Weeds

It also helps to know what weeds you’re dealing when deciding how to approach them. Some weeds, like crabgrass, spread underground via their root system so manual removal will not be possible. There are still natural ways to control crabgrass though!

Other weeds you may find yourself facing include dollar weed and Bermuda grass. I have a guide to the 6 most common lawn weeds here if you’re still not sure, and a guide to proven ways to rid your lawn of weeds without chemicals here.

Prevention is Always the Best Solution

Last but not least, preventing weeds from becoming an issue in the first place is always the easiest approach!

There are many things you can do to limit the weed load of your garden.

These include:

Also, remember that there besides RoundUp there are other types of weed killers that can provide great results.

Summary

Are you relieved to find there are lots of options when choosing a roundup weed killer alternative?

It pays to be flexible in your approach and maybe experiment with different options in different parts of your garden. One safe alternative to Roundup may work better in one situation than another. For example, flame weeding is excellent for rock gardens but not so much in an area of dense vegetation with lots of plants that you want to keep.

What option did you find worked best for your situation? I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments below!