Dethatching is essential to ensure a beautiful and healthy lawn. But, for you to achieve that, you need the best dethatcher for the job.

In this article, I have compiled the reviews of some of the top-rated dethatchers on the market.

I have also included a detailed buying guide for an easy selection process. You will also find answers to questions you might have on the use of lawn dethatchers.

TOP 11 Best Dethatchers for 2025

Greenworks 14-inch Corded Dethatcher

If you have a small lawn and looking for a reliable dethatcher, this 14-inch one from Greenworks is an excellent choice. It is not only compact for easy handling but also effective in removing thatch from your lawn.

The dethatcher features a 14-inch dethatching path, which is adequate for small lawns. It is paired with a powerful 10amp motor for consistent performance when dethatching. The best thing is that it has three-position adjustment levels allowing you to customize its functions to your lawn requirements.

Pros

Cons

Groundskeeper The II Rake

Is it possible to be in love with a garden rake? I never thought so until I met the Groundskeeper II, and now I’m considering leaving my wife.

I bought this one specifically for dethatching, and boy does it deliver. Made with a sturdy fiberglass handle that’s 55-inches long, its construction and design help prevent fatigue – no matter the job.

It’s lightweight, yet tough and durable, and I’ve been amazed at what it can rake up around the garden.

The tines keep their shape but offer excellent flexibility, and if you do manage to break one – it can easily be replaced.

Probably the best dethatching rake on the market – and yet so much more versatile besides – this thing needs to be in your shed.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Tine Tow Dethatcher 45-0294

Agri-Fab is known for its incredible gardening tools, and this dethatcher is no exception. It is designed to dethatch a large lawn without having to go over and over again one specific area. On this note, it comes with twenty durable spring tines that remove thatch from the base up.

The tines penetrate and turn up dried grass and weeds in 40-inch swatches. This path is significantly wide, making this dethatcher the best lawn dethatcher for a large lawn. The best part is that the spring tines are replaceable.

Pros

Cons

Brinly DT-48BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher

I understand that not all dethatchers fit all mowers, so I had to include this one for larger mowers. The Brinly DT-48BH has a 48-inch working width, which works well for a more extensive lawn.

It is fitted with flexing spring steel tines designed to comb through the lawn and lift thatch up and out of the yard. When it comes to the quality of this dethatcher, I find it one of the best on the list. It comes in all steel construction to withstand regular use without deteriorating in quality.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0295 Tow Dethatcher

If you are trying to find the best tow behind dethatcher for a large lawn, this Agri-Fab model should be top of your list. It comes with a 48-inch dethatching path that can help you dethatch a large area in a short time.

What’s more? It features a durable, heavy-duty steel deck and welded drawbar. This can last long while ensuring the utmost functionality of the dethatcher. For easy operation, the dethatcher has a cantilever transport handle, making it easy to raise and lower.

Pros

Cons

Brinly DT-40BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher

Another gem from Brinly, this model is ideal if you are looking for a balance between size and effectiveness. It comes with a 40-inch dethatching path, which is relatively functional for any size of the lawn. On this note, it works best with lawnmowers for small yards.

Does it hold up, though?

Quality is an essential factor to consider, and this dethatcher ticks all the boxes right. It is an all-steel model and fitted with a heavy-duty tray to hold up to 70lbs of additional weight. The tines are made from heavy-duty spring steel. You can catch the tines with the safety rod and prevent contact with mower blades and maintain quality.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman CMXGZBF7124315 Tow Dethatcher

Finding a dethatcher on a budget is not the easiest task. This is why I included this model from Craftsman. It comes at a relatively affordable price range and is designed to suit the different types of tractors. The universal hitch makes it compatible with most mowers too.

The dethatcher features automatic raking action and has a weight tray that holds up to 70pounds. With the cantilever transport handle, you can easily raise and lower for convenience. Additionally, it has 20 heat-treated tines that last long despite regular use.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0457 SmartLink Dethatcher

If you have the SmartLink Master Platform and looking for a compatible dethatcher, this Agri-Fab model is the best. It is specifically designed for that and works well at picking up thatch. The best thing is that it attaches in seconds, and you do not need any tools for assembly.

The thing I love most about this dethatcher is how little space it takes. With many tools in your garage, you need a space-saving model like this one. And, it does not take away from how functional it is when it comes to dethatching.

Pros

Cons

Earthwise DT71613 Corded Electric Dethatcher

If you are trying to find the best electric dethatcher, this one from Earthwise can be a great choice. It comes with a 13-amp motor with a bail wire switch for safe and easy starting. It is powerful and energy-efficient like that of a gas garden tiller.

The lawn dethatcher comes with a 16-inch working width hence suitable for a small garden. It is also fitted with a debris catcher that has a capacity of 4 gallons. I love that this dethatcher is eco-friendly, therefore a great choice if you are looking for a fume-free option.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0343 Dethatcher

I love that I can buy attachments to use with other tools instead of investing in an independent tool for a single job. This is why I had to include this dethatcher for lawn sweepers. If you are looking for one, this model from Agri-Fab is a perfect choice.

Like other Agri-Fab dethatchers, this one is built to fit most mowers, lawn sweepers, and tractors. It comes with a simple attachment hook to fit quickly on to your lawn sweeper. With the 14 heat-treated spring tines, the dethatcher does a good job picking up thatch and weeds.

Pros

Cons

VonHaus 2-in-1 Corded Electric Dethatcher

If you are searching for a dethatcher but could still make use of an aerator, I recommend this 2-in-1 model from Von Haus. It comes with separate dethatcher and aerator drums so you can use it for either task.

It runs on a 12.5 amp motor to lift organic debris from the lawn. What’s more? It features a 15-inch working width, which works great for small and medium. The good thing is that it features a thermal cut out and a 2-stage safety start to ensure you are safe.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Dethatcher for Your Lawn

Investing in a lawn dethatcher can place a dent in your account. This is why it is vital to keep some factors in mind before you acquire one. That way, you get the best value for your money by choosing a model that meets your needs. Here are the essential things to consider.

The Type of Dethatcher

Dethatchers come in two major types; electric and manual.

Electric

Electric dethatchers are generally lightweight and easy to use. Most brands on the market have push models. These work well for a small lawn where you can push it forward and back to dethatch.

Electric dethatchers are highly rated because they do not emit fumes, unlike gas-powered lawn power tools do. They run on motors, and with an accessible power source, electric models work well. Therefore, you should consider the type of motor it has.

The power of the motor varies from one model to the other and highly affects how well the dethatcher will work. Most models range between 8 to 15 amps motors, which do well in general.

You may be geared towards choosing a high power motor, say the 15 amp one. But in the world of motors, the power of the motor is not a significant consideration. You want to find one with a balance between power and effectiveness. No one wants a muscular dethatcher roaming around the lawn, making all the noise and potentially damaging your grass.

You would rather find one with lower power but one that maneuvers easily and is comfortable to handle. A 12 amp one can be a great choice; it provides adequate power but is still friendly on the surface of your lawn.

Lastly, when choosing electric dethatchers, consider the length of the cord. Most of the models available come with short cords but allow the use of an extension cord to cover a larger area. You can extend the cable up to 200 feet long but, you need to be careful while at it.

Why?

The Ohms law indicates that the voltage is equal to current plus resistance. On this note, the resistance in wires increases over long distances. Therefore, if you use an overly longer cord, the power of the dethatcher might not be the best.

A tip to solve this would be to increase the width of the cord. That will balance the length of the cord and the width to maintain the power consistency.

Manual

Manual dethatchers are designed to attach to other lawn maintenance tools such as zero-turn mowers, regular lawn mowers, and tractors. They come fitted with steel tines that reach down into the lawn to pull thatch and weeds. The best thing about having a manual dethatcher is that you can attach it to your mower and handle both tasks at a go.

This can be time-saving, and you do not have to worry about using two or more tools for the job. The only problem is that manual dethatchers only work well if you have a sit-down mower or sweeper. Otherwise, you would need to mow first then use a push dethatcher to clear.

Collection Bag

Most models of dethatchers, both electric and manual, come with a collection bag. Note that if yours does not come with one, you will likely spend more time raking up thatch after. Most people assume that a collection bag is unnecessary, but it saves so much time and effort during and after dethatching.

If a dethatcher does not have a collection bag, it pulls thatch from the lawn and dumps it right on the surface. This will then require you to use a rake or a lawn sweeper to collect the mess. But, if you enjoy raking, then a collection bag should not be a concern.

Tines

The power of the motor gets all the credit for the job done, but in essence, the tines do all the dirty work. Tines are metal fingers that reach down into the lawn to grab and hold on the thatch `

Most models have steel tines, but the quality varies from one model to the other. Ideally, the best tines should be made of high-quality steel with a rust-proof finish to withstand use in any conditions. It is important to understand that the wider the dethatcher, the more tines it should have.

Attachment/ Assembly

The design of the dethatcher you choose should be simple and easy to figure out. If you are conversant with assembling power tools, particularly gardening tools, you should be able to put together a dethatcher easily.

This factor comes across differently from one person to another, but I believe it is essential. No one wants to get stuck, putting together a dethatcher for hours. Before you buy, make sure the package comes with all the parts and necessary accessories. This will save you valuable money and effort, making the process even easier.

Also, pay attention to the type of attachment hook the dethatcher has. Some models are compatible with all tractors, mowers, and other tools, while others are designed for specific ones. If you do not understand the different attachments available, go for models that come with a universal hitch attachment.

Adjustable Height

Usually, dethatchers allow height adjustments to suit specific areas of your lawn when dethatching. But, the height levels vary from one design to the other. Most have three-position adjustment levels, and they work pretty well. But, there are few models with up to 5 adjustment points.

The height adjustment feature is crucial as it allows you to customize how deep the tines can get. For example, if you have longer grass in one area than another, you can adjust the height to ensure the tines reach the base of the long grass. You can then switch it back to the original position or change the height to suit a specific area.

Dethatcher Width

Dethatchers come with a different width to suit various sizes of lawns. The larger the width, the more surface the dethatcher will cover with one swatch. For example, if you get a 48-inch dethatcher, that means it will dethatch 48-inches wide in one path.

The width is not a significant concern, but if you are looking to save time dethatching your large lawn, you need to consider it. If you have a smaller, narrow yard with corners, a smaller width would be most appropriate.

FAQ

Is a dethatcher worth it?

The answer to whether dethatching is worth it or not depends on your overall goal for your lawn. If you are chasing the aesthetic and beauty of a green lawn, then you might need to dethatch every few months. But, if you are chasing the health of your yard, then leaving about ½-inch of thatch is beneficial to your lawn.

A thin layer of thatch can act as mulch and protect your lawn from soil temperature fluctuations. Also, it allows water, nutrients, and air to penetrate and can help retain soil moisture. But, if you notice a thick layer of thatch on the surface of the lawn, then it is time to dethatch.

Should you dethatch your yard every year?

It is advisable to dethatch your lawn at least once a year. Ideally, you should dethatch your yard if the thatch grows to more than ½-inch from the soil surface. You can use your fingers to check how thick the thatch is to evaluate if dethatching is necessary.

Is it better to dethatch in the spring or fall?

You should dethatch your lawn when it is actively growing as this is the time thatch tends to pile up. The best time to do this is the same as aerating, which is around early fall or early spring if you have cool-season grasses. If you have warm-season grasses, then late spring towards early summer is the best time to dethatch.

Should I aerate or dethatch my lawn?

It is best to dethatch your lawn first before you aerate the lawn. This helps to loosen the thatch and remove excess debris, which affects proper root development. Both practices are essential for the health of the lawn and should be done together.

For more on this, read our article on aerating vs dethatching.

Should I mow before dethatching?

You can mow before dethatching is you have long grass that you are to cut anyway. But, if your grass is of a desirable height, it is best to mow after dethatching. This ensures you have a uniform layer of grass after removing thatch. However, you have to be careful when mowing after dethatching.

A tip is to use the lowest mow settings just to level the surface.

Can you mow after dethatching?

Yes, you can mow after dethatching. This will ensure you achieve a leveled lawn surface. You also take care of overgrown parts of your lawn and clear any left-over thatch in the process. However, it is not always a requirement to mow after dethatching, especially if the grass is not long enough to cut.

Will dethatching remove weeds?

Dethatching can remove weeds; however, it is not the best practice to take care of weeds in your lawn. If you have weeds and tough grass such as Bermuda grass, you can first use a weed killer designed for Bermuda grass before dethatching. That way, you attack the problem from the source rather than fixing it temporarily.

If you have pets with access to your lawn, get pet safe weed killers for safety.

Should I fertilize after dethatching?

It is best to wait for a while before you can apply fertilizer after dethatching. This allows your lawn to green up and take shape. If you fertilize your lawn while the grass is in a dormant stage, you encourage weeds to grow and compete with the grass.

Should you water after dethatching?

Yes, you should water the lawn after dethatching. This will help the grass recover fast and prevent excessive drying. Be careful not to overwater as this would feed sprouting weeds that would eventually compete with the grass for nutrients.

Summary

A lawn dethatcher can come in handy to help you maintain your lawn in the best conditions. With the considerations above, you can bag a high-quality, effective dethatcher for your specific needs.

I love all the options above, but my favorite remains the Brinly DT-48BH Tow-Behind Dethatcher. It has high-quality components to last long while providing quality results each time. It is wide enough to work well for large lawns, and the strong tines pick up thatch well.

Green and healthy grass can seem like a dream out of reach for most gardeners and trust me, I’ve been there: you’re sick to death of those sneaky weeds that infiltrate your garden, popping up to say “hello” at the worst of times!

Before treating these bad boys, you need to be able to identify them as you need to find the right weedkiller – or organic method – that can tackle the job once and for all!

But how do we identify them, I hear you ask?

And how do we get rid of them?

Worry not my friends, because if you read on, you’ll find the most common lawn weeds that you probably find in your garden as well as how to treat them!

What are Weeds?

People don’t like to admit they have a weed problem in their garden, I know I don’t but the first step to combatting this issue is by admitting it and identifying them.

So, what is are weeds then?

There are three key terms used to identify the behavior and type of weed, these include the generic term: Common Weed, as well as other, more specific terms, Noxious Weed, and Invasive Weed.

Common Weed: “A wild plant growing where it is not wanted and in competition with cultivated plants.”

The keyword I take from that definition is “competition”.

Weeds are unwanted and pesky, and they can drain the life out of your other wanted plants, causing them to be a massive issue in the health and longevity of your garden!

Noxious Weed: “A weed that has been designated by an agricultural or other governing authority as a plant that is injurious to agricultural or horticultural crops, natural habitats or ecosystems, or humans or livestock.”

Invasive Weed: “An alien species of plant that shows a tendency to spread out of control. The label “invasive” is generally reserved for plants that have been introduced from other regions and spread like wildfire in their new habitats.”

What Causes Weeds?

Weeds are opportunists, they grow when the conditions are right such as in moist or dry turf, and varying temperature levels. Many weeds are the product of poor lawn care and can thrive on this negligence.

When your garden is suffering from lawn disease, this causes dry and thin turf areas in which the weeds can take advantage of, if you want to prevent weeds you need to prevent lawn disease and there are many types that can affect the health of your grass.

Lawn disease is a factor that can create dry grass; however, weeds can also grow in the moist and warm grass, especially in those which have been overwatered creating a fungus and moss infliction.

Moss is desirable in the right setting; it is definitely not desirable on your lawn which can attract certain weeds as well as spread itself – not ideal!

You can easily get rid of moss in your lawn naturally with the right methods that will preserve the health of your grass.

Most Common Lawn Weeds in the USA

There are many species of weeds that can be found globally, however, for the purpose of this blog, I will be talking about the most common weeds that can be found in the USA.

These most popular weed species can be categorized into noxious weeds or invasive weeds, and common weeds.

Noxious Weeds

Noxious weeds are destructive and can pose a risk in your garden. These weeds are remarkably hard to get rid of when using regular weed killing methods.

These weeds, as stated above, can be injurious to agriculture, so imagine how they can impact your regular garden!

Field Bindweed

Field bindweed is a perennial vine that dies down only once a year and can be found throughout the US except for the most southern regions. It has many names allocated such as wild-morning glory; not to be confused with the ornamental ‘morning glory’ which is an annual plant.

Originating from Eurasia, field bindweed is of the hardiest and difficult to combat weeds. It can spread from roots as well as from seeds. These weeds’ roots are found to reach depths of 14 feet!

A single field bindweed plant can spread its roots more than 10 feet in a single growing season!

The leaves of this plant can be identified by their spiral arrangement and arrowhead shape. The flowers are a deep trumpet shape with colors of white and pale pink. These flowers blossom in the mid-to-late summer and produce fruits with two seeds in each, these seeds can be eaten by birds or can lay dormant in the soil for decades.

The feature that causes this weed to be considered ‘noxious’ is the way in which it spreads and survives.

The deep roots make it hard to kill completely meaning whilst on surface-level weed killer might do the job, the roots far extension means it can survive as well as reproduce in a matter of time!

Moreover, above ground level, the stems of this plant can twist around the stems of other plants, climbing in a counterclockwise direction. This can suffocate your beloved plants as it is essentially choking them!

How to Prevent and Kill Field Bindweed

This notorious weed is unfortunately fearless to many tilling and cultivation methods as this can sometimes cause it to spread even further! Leaving even an inch of the root can mean it will most likely resprout and surprise you next season.

On top of this, field bindweed is drought-resistant, and once established, commercial weed killers are not enough to get rid of these weeds.

The best way in which you can stop these plants is through early prevention.

Many weeds are tackled through this method and are known to be very effective if started at the right time. This method is very reliant on proper lawn care such as watering and using the right tools.

In partnership with this, you’ll need to extract the seedlings when they’re about 3-4 weeks old, as soon after that the buds start to form and it’s pretty much downhill from there.

A long-term prevention method that you can use is light exclusion.

Bindweed grows well in mulches through the loose gaps; therefore, you need to close these gaps by placing a landscaping fabric over the top of the soil and then apply mulch on top.

After around three years, this light exclusion method will be the most effective way of getting rid of bindweed but be aware that the roots and seeds can lay dormant for decades, so you’ll need to keep an eye out for early sprouts!

Ragweed

Ragweed is known to be the cause of hay fever during springtime. This noxious weed can be found in every state of America except Alaska and has even been introduced to Hawaii, however, the main environment where ragweed truly thrives is in the Midwest and Northeast regions.

This weed has an abundance of different variants and all of which are super annoying! These variants can grow in fields and even between cracks of pavement.

Ragweed season peaks in mid-September, however, the plants start pollinating as early as July. Every single plant during pollination can produce over one billion pollen grains causing some major hay fever as well as worsen asthma in the spring.

The behavior of this plant is what makes it noxious, its roots are called taproots and are extremely strong and hardy; if any of these roots are left behind in the soil it poses a risk of resprouting.

Alongside this, the seeds offer the biggest risk as they can spread like wildfire and can travel through bodies of water as well as wind.

This weed can be distinguished by its leaf shape with its spear-shaped blades that protrude outwardly into lobes. The flowers of this weed are stamens with white and purple florets. These florets contain seeds and are wind-pollinated.

How to Prevent Ragweed

Once spotted, ragweed can be killed with a broadleaf weed killer or other general commercial weed killers. For this to be effective, it needs to be done when the seedlings are young, and the roots aren’t established enough as that will cause the response to the weed killer to be better.

Another progressive preventative method is by mowing your lawn regularly. Mowing will aid against the ragweed sprouting flowers and spreading seeds.

If you want a more natural approach to killing weeds, ragweed is one of the more responsive to this method than other noxious weeds. Again, this needs to be done as early as possible to prevent further spread. These natural methods include using vinegar as well as boiling water.

Quack Grass

Quack grass is a creeping perennial weed that resembles closely to ryegrass and crabgrass, however, can be easily noticed through its thick stem and taller blades.

The areas in which this weed is most common include the northern portion of America and is extremely prominent in Ohio. It thrives mostly in crop fields, gardens, and roadsides.

This weed forms a heavy and matted formation that allows roots to spread and cultivate further, causing this plant to be considered invasive and noxious.

How to Kill and Prevent Quack Grass

Quack grass can be killed using a non-selective herbicide with the active ingredient being Glyphosate. This, however, can also kill traditional garden grass as well as ornamental plants so take care to only place it directly on the quack grass.

If you want pet-safe weed killers for your garden and weed problems, be sure to visit that post for more information!

Another way in which you can prevent and kill quack grass is by pulling it at the roots. You need to ensure that you do this effectively and with the right method so you don’t leave any of the roots leftover that could cause regrowth!

If you do use this method, you need to dispose of the plant in a waste bin as if you put it on a compost heap it can re-root and grow there.

Dandelion

Aaah the common dandelion.

This weed is dreaded in all gardens due to its deep taproot that extends over 15 feet! The puffball seed-head means that with and a gust of wind, the seeds will blow and germinate in any garden it lands in.

Dandelions grow in all areas of America; they don’t discriminate as they can thrive in pretty much all settings.

How to Prevent and Kill Dandelions

The most effective way to prevent dandelions from future sprouting is proper lawn care. Dandelions grow in loose and unrooted grass areas; many people experience dandelions growing in newly laid grass that has a weak root system.

To prevent this, you need to create a dense and healthy lawn through regular watering and mowing, as well as reseeding dry areas. This will be a long-term preventative method that you can use to extend the health of your lawn!

Aside from long-term methods, you can use weedkillers that are most suited for deep root extermination.

For more ways that you can use to get rid of dandelions, read my article here!

Pigweed

Pretty much every farmer in North America has had their struggle with pigweed. It wins the title as one of THE most troublesome common weed types that can affect basically any garden.

This weed thrives in summer and can be an exhausting issue throughout all of America – as well as globally! The pigweed name is actually a term that has several species attached, and all of which are a pain to get rid of.

These weeds love the summer heat. They emerge after spring and wreak havoc all summer in many gardens and crop fields, only to die in fall.

They can be distinguished by their leaf shape being broad and rounded with a pointed tip. Their flowers are similar to that of ragweed and carry seeds within their flowers.

How to Kill and Prevent Pigweed

Word of advice when dealing with this plant: pull it out before it flowers!

Another method that is tried and true in preventing the spread of pigweed is by applying a layer of winter mulch to your garden. The seeds of this weed need sunlight to germinate, so by covering this weed with mulch you are starving it of the nutrients it requires!

Purslane

Whilst purslane is considered noxious in one US state, it is actually a more common weed.

This weed can be identified through its succulent nature with rounded green and red leaves.

Why is this plant such a headache?

This plant is an issue due to its high spreadable nature for each plant can produce 2 million seeds!

Once these seeds have spread, this plant can flourish and grow in pretty much all environments. Aside from this, purslane can also grow through its leaves spreading the growth even further.

Purslane, due to its succulent-type behavior can survive in dry conditions, however, prefers moist soil and warm weather.

How to Prevent and Kill Purslane

Purslane can be eradicated through simple weed pulling. Unfortunately, purslane is most responsive to preventative measures rather than herbicide.

This plant can live in your soil for long periods of time and little seedlings can pop up unexpectedly, so the minute you see one pull it out ASAP!

Regular mulching and aeration of the soil will also prevent this weed from growing as it makes it hard to establish a deep root system. Using synthetic mulches will also help to filter out light, hence draining the plant of its nutrient source.

Summary

Weeds are a common issue that so many people face and can drive you to the brink of crazy – I’ve been there.

Now that you know the most common weeds, noxious and common, and how to identify them, you’ll be able to protect your garden from their future invasion!

Whilst they can be unavoidable, weeds are can be contained, so let me know in the comments if you’ve had any success with tackling your garden weed problem, and feel free to share this article with anyone suffering too!

One thing is clear – as there are many types of diseases and weeds, there are also a lot of weed killer types and disease treatments available.

Fighting more than just weeds in your lawn and old stumps are in the way to the perfect lawn? We have reviewed some of the best stump killers that will help you with this problem.

So, it’s understandable that keeping them out of your garden is preferable.

Unfortunately, snails are often unfairly lumped in with slugs and seen as something that should be eradicated. In reality, the damage they cause is usually fairly minimal.

But do they provide any benefits? Should we be rethinking how we see these little critters?

Read on to find out!

Benefits of Snails in the Garden

The primary benefits of snails in the garden, center around the fact that they are part of the natural ecosystem and have a role to play in keeping everything in balance.

Us humans are pretty arrogant when it comes to deciding what should be allowed to live, and what should be designated a pest and eradicated.

Often our efforts to ‘control’ one species, leads to an imbalance in the numbers of other species. This chain reaction can result in other animals becoming labeled as pests while others become threatened.

The best policy is always to try and support the natural balance of the environment and its ecosystems. And snails are a natural part of that ecosystem.

Benefits of Snails in the Garden Include:

Though they’re definitely less attractive and more damaging, slugs also play a role in the ecosystem. The benefits of slugs in the garden are actually very similar to snails.

They provide a food source for many animals higher up the food chain and they help to decompose decaying organic matter, creating fertilizer.

But, unlike slugs, snails don’t actually cause much damage.

The benefits may not blow you away, but snails are certainly not a cause for concern the way slugs might be, and there should be no reason to control their numbers unless something is very wrong in the balance of your garden’s ecosystem.

So, let’s talk about how to support that balance.

Supporting the Natural Balance of Your Garden

In the world of permaculture, there is no such thing as ‘too many slugs’, just ‘not enough ducks’ to eat them.

While keeping ducks in your garden as a means of slug and snail control is likely not a viable option, this sentiment highlights the fact that an abundance of slugs and snails represents an imbalance in your garden ecosystem.

Ironically, this imbalance could, in part, be caused by pest management strategies such as slug pellets which are also fatal to the very animals who feed on slugs and snails and would otherwise be helping to keep their numbers down.

Interestingly, the presence of snails may be seen differently in different places. In some parts of the world, for example, Germany, you can mail order certain species of snails to deliberately introduce into your garden for the benefits they bring.

So, What Can You Do to Keep the Peace?

Encourage Predatory Animals to Your Garden

This is a surefire way of keeping slugs and snails in check.

Building a small wildlife pond and putting out bird feeders are ways of doing this that help to support these animals when conditions are tough in the winter as well.

Keep Things Tidy, but Not Too Tidy

f you’re of the opinion that a well-maintained garden looks like you’ve gone over the lawn with a vacuum cleaner, you might be in for some trouble.

Fallen leaves break down to feed the soil as well as snails (meaning less work for you as you won’t need to fertilize!). A little bit of debris also creates homes for wildlife such as snails, insects, and the predatory animals that will eat said snails and insects.

Having a garden that is too perfectly manicured means there are limited places for animals to form their homes and find food sources.

On the other hand, a completely overgrown garden will provide ample places to call home and find food so may not be the best option if you’re trying to limit slug and snail numbers. So again, it comes down to balance.

Keep Things Light, Airy and Not Too Wet

Snails love dark and wet. As with the above point, you want to keep some snail-friendly habitat, but you can easily avoid their numbers growing if you keep your garden from getting too soggy.

Using drip feed irrigation rather than a sprinkler might help to target water where you want it without wetting a large area of foliage (which snails would prefer). Using a soaker hose is the best way of doing this.

Practice Companion Planting

Snails have a preference for some plants (lettuces, brassicas, cabbages, dahlias, hostas and marigolds) while disliking others (lavender, rosemary, hydrangeas, geraniums). Planting things that snails don’t like next to the things that they do can help prevent them from getting too excited.

There are also natural methods that you can use to discourage snails from vulnerable plants and avoid having to use toxic slug pellets.

Handpick After Dark

Snails are nocturnal, so going outside with your torch after dark and hand removing any snails that you find is the most favored management technique by many experienced gardeners.

You’ll probably want to wear garden gloves, especially if you’re going after slugs at the same time. Just be sure to toss them more than 40m away to overcome their homing instinct!

(If you’re not sure where to toss them, you could always add them to your compost heap – they’ll help with the decomposing and there’ll be plenty there to eat. If you don’t have a compost yet, have a read of this guide to the best compost tumblers to get started.)

Create a Barrier

Things like coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, diatomaceous earth, and ash can help to deter snails from a certain area as they’ll find it hard to slither over that surface.

Keeping plants that are popular with snails in raised beds or large plant pots is also a good option as it’s further for them to travel and easier to catch them in the act.

Set Up a Beer Trap

Snails and slugs love the smell of beer so setting up a beer trap is a great way to lure them away from your precious plants. Set a dish of beer in the soil, deep enough that once they fall in, they’ll drown.

Slug Pellets as a Last Resort

Slug pellets should only be an absolute last resort, if you have a serious, serious infestation, which, let’s face it, is unlikely. If you just don’t like the look of a few snails in your garden, then create an environment that doesn’t attract them rather than resorting to toxic pesticides.

The main ingredient in conventional slug pellets, Metaldehyde, is currently being banned in the UK due to the harmful impact it has on wildlife. Metaldehyde has also been found in drinking water supplies. If you absolutely have to use slug pellets, look for versions that don’t contain Metaldehyde and that list themselves as safe for pets.

Just getting into gardening? Top Tip: One of the most useful but surprising items that you could set yourself up with is a garden kneeler. Save your knees and garden in comfort!

Summary

So, are snails good for the garden?

While the benefits listed don’t translate directly into benefits that you’ll see in terms of flourishing plants, in this day and age, with so many natural balances drastically upset by humans, keeping a bit more of a balance in your garden by allowing snails to cohabitate in reasonable numbers can only be a good thing.

So, I’m going to say yes. Snails are good for your garden. They have their place in the ecosystem, and removing them will definitely cause more harm than good.

What’s your experience?

And you certainly need to make sure you have the right tools and equipment for the job.

When you need to feed, seed, and weed, doing it by hand is going g to be a mammoth task.

That’s why we’re taking a look at the best tow behind spreaders for your lawn, so you can get the job done in no time, and let nature take care of the rest.

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow.

What is a Tow Behind Spreader?

A tow-behind spreader is a device that is used to distribute seeds and other products from a wheeled container that you attach to the back of a garden vehicle.

Most commonly made from a rugged poly material, they come in various sizes and weight capacities depending on the area you need to cover.

They are available in two distinct types – broadcast and drop. Keep reading for the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Tow Spreader Uses

Aside from the ability to spread seeds, tow-behind spreaders are actually a little more versatile than that.

They can also be used for distributing fertilizer or lawn feed, as well as granulated pesticides and herbicides.

This is often a preferred method of laying down such products, as granular weed and insect control tends to be less harsh than spray or liquid chemicals.

But if you are looking for a spray version, check out this article on the best tow-behind sprayers instead.

In the winter, spreaders can also be used to put down ice melt or salts, but care should be taken when and where you apply both – and only if it’s really necessary.

The 9 Best Tow Behind Spreaders 2025

Agri-Fab 45-0463 Tow Behind Broadcast Spreader

Based out of Illinois, Agri-Fab manufactures some excellent lawn and garden-maintenance tools and equipment, including some quality dump carts – and you can follow that link for more.

This is a highly-rated tow-behind broadcast spreader that has a 130 lbs weight capacity, which is ideal for larger areas and ensures you won’t need to be stopping all the time to fill it up. A universal hitch allows you to hook it up to just about any lawn vehicle, while the large, rugged, pneumatic tires can handle rough, uneven terrain.

The gearbox is enclosed to prevent damage and corrosion and promote long life, and an on/off rod is accessible from your driving position for precise, smooth control while you’re on the go.

Pros

Cons

Brinly-Hardy Tow-Behind Aerator-Spreader

Homedepot.com

Founded back in 1839, Brinly-Hardy has been manufacturing top-quality lawn-care products for well over a century, so they know a thing or two about broadcast seed spreaders.

This is a heavy-duty, versatile piece of equipment, given the fact that it’s actually a combination aerator and spreader. Use it to aerate your lawn before overseeding, so you have one tool that does two important lawn-care jobs.

The durable steel hopper has a 100 lbs weight capacity, and the calibrated flow control allows you to set the drop spread pattern in order to prevent unnecessary waste.

A transport lever raises the durable, rust-resistant steel tines for driving over walkways, and the 18-gauge steel construction reduces flexing and twisting when fully loaded.

Pros

Cons

Chapin 8620B Tow Behind Spreader

For those really large seeding or fertilizing spreading jobs, this Chapin product has one of the highest capacities in this review. Capable of holding up to 150 lbs worth of product, it features an auto-stop dual impeller that will stop spreading when not in motion – which is handy for reducing waste.

14-inch pneumatic tires can tackle just about any terrain, and the heavy-duty gearbox has been treated with oil and bronze bearings to improve performance and long life. The steel frame is solid and durable, while the trailer-hitch has been designed to be compatible with most lawn tractors.

And speaking of, why not take a look at this article on the best riding lawnmowers for rough terrain for something that will go hand-in-hand with the Chapin?

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Tow Behind Spreader

Homedepot.com

Here we have another Agri-Fab entry, this time a more compact version that’s capable of a maximum 85 lbs product capacity.

Made with heavy-duty polyethylene, the hopper is rust and corrosion-proof and can distribute its contents up to 10 feet away with a continuous flow that eliminates streaks.

Featuring an enclosed gearbox to prevent wear and tear, the tubular steel frame is tough and durable, with a flow control within reach, so you can manage just how much product you’re dispensing while driving your vehicle.

The easy-to-set controls also allow you to apply just the right amount of product to your lawn – whether it be seeds, fertilizer, or anything else you need.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel Drop Spreader

Homedepot.com

Ohio Steel was always going to have a product in this review, given the quality of their lawn and garden care output. This is a drop spreader, which makes it ideal for fine-tuning your product spread and not overstepping the mark.

The 36-inch, 20-gauge-steel hopper has a generous 100 lbs weight capacity and offers a precise distribution pattern between the wheels. The tires themselves are 12-inches in diameter and are of the “never flat” design, so they’ll never need filling up.

It fits all models of lawn vehicles with a rear pin hitch receiver, including some of these awesome commercial zero-turn mowers for the very best in large lawn maintenance and care.

Pros

Cons

Brinly BS36BH Tow-Behind Broadcast Spreader

One of the largest spreaders on the market, this giant offering from Brinly is also one of the most popular and highly rated. Offering an enormous 175 lbs capacity, you’ve got three and a half cubic feet of product at your disposal if you so choose.

And it’s solidly built, too, with a heavy-duty poly hopper, stainless steel hardware, spinner shaft and agitator. The one-piece tubular steel frame is as durable as they come, and the gearbox is fully enclosed to keep it operating at peak performance.

Large, 13-inch pneumatic tires have a grippy lug to handle all kinds of terrain, and the patented directional spread offers accurate control for product distribution.

Pros

Cons

John Deere Tow-Behind Broadcast Spreader

Homedepot.com

Outdoor power equipment specialists John Deere were not going to be outdone in this category, and this is their version of a 175 lbs tow-behind broadcast spreader.

Like the Brinly, it offers a 3.5 cubic feet capacity, inside a durable polyethylene hopper that is impervious to rust. Finished in the John Deere iconic green livery, it has a handy auto-flow function that stops spreading product when you stop, and the gearbox is enclosed to protect the inner workings and ensure a long life at peak performance.

Capable of a maximum spread of 12 feet, you’ll cover more ground and get the job done in no time with this option from the Illinois-based agriculture stalwarts.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Poly Pro Tow Drop Spreader

Homedepot.com

Designed for professional landscapers, this large drop spreader from Agri-Fab offers a 42-inch hopper that’s capable of carrying 175 lbs worth of product.

Cover as much as one acre with ease, with a universal hitch that is compatible with most brands of lawn tractor – as well as zero-turns. The heavy-duty poll hopper is rust-proof and won’t dent, while the galvanized steel agitator is also corrosion-resistant and easy-to-clean for longevity and peak performance.

The large, pneumatic tires provide a smooth transport solution, ensuring you can drive all over your property with an accurate product distribution.

Pros

Cons

Buyers Products UTV All Purpose Spreader

Something a little different to finish with now as I’ve decided to include this all-purpose spreader for use with UTVs. Technically not a “tow-behind” but more a “carry-behind,” it attaches to the back of your vehicle with the included receiver mount hardware.

It can carry up to 150 lbs worth of product and is capable of a spread width of 30 feet – which is pretty impressive when you think about the design.

Made from heavy-duty poly and steel, it’s also the only spreader to feature a built-in 12 Volt motor that powers the electric spinner. This is a great option for achieving a super-fast spread – providing you have the compatible machine to actually carry it.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Tow Behind Spreader

Below, you’ll find a few handy hints on what to look for when you’re in the market for a tow-behind spreader.

An FAQ section follows in case we’ve missed anything.

Do You Need a Tow-Behind Spreader?

Before firing in and purchasing a tow-behind spreader, it’s a good idea to figure out if you actually need one first.

Perhaps you can get away with using a push spreader.

Maybe simply looking to spot-treat a few small areas, and a handheld spreader will suffice?

As a rule of thumb, if you’re looking to cover more than half an acre with seed, fertilizer, or anything else, then a tow-behind spreader is likely your best bet.

And don’t forget – you need to have the right kind of vehicle to pull it.

Type of Spreader

There are commonly two types of tow-behind spreaders, and you’ll need to decide which one is right for you.

Broadcast spreaders are designed with an impeller that rotates as you move along. Depending on the spreader, you can set this to different increments to dispense more or less product over a wider range.

Some broadcast spreaders might even have an auto-stop feature, which means that it will only cast the product if you’re in motion.

This can seriously reduce waste as well as prevent lawn burning with fertilizers.

Broadcast spreaders are ideal for covering larger areas where you’re not too concerned about where the seeds or fertilizer actually ends up. You’re looking for a random distribution over an extensive space.

However, broadcast spreaders can be notorious for simply flinging products everywhere – including places you don’t want it to go.

Even with certain technology for guarding edges, this can cause problems if you’re trying to be accurate, and you can finish with a wasted product – particularly on walk and driveways.

On the other hand, drop spreaders are so-called because they simply drop the product straight down as they pass. There’s no spinning impeller, and so you get a more precise distribution.

Drop spreaders are useful for when you only want seed or fertilizer to go in a certain location – such as along borders, edges, or plot lines.

The last thing you want is grass growing in the garden beds – or anywhere else it’s not required. And you certainly don’t want to throw any product into a neighbor’s property.

The downside to drop spreaders is they can create lines of the product along with your lawn, so you need to be careful when making each pass.

And they’re not as good as broadcast spreaders for covering wider areas and are more restrictive when it comes to distribution rates.

Lawn/Garden Size

It’s not rocket science – the larger the area you need to cover, the bigger the hopper will need to be in your tow-behind spreader.

Of course, you’re more than welcome to use a smaller model if you’re looking to save a bit of money, but you’re certainly not going to save any time by constantly needing to stop and start to fill it up.

Here’s a rough guide to what you should be looking out for when it comes to spreader size:

For around 1/4-acre, an 85 lbs capacity spreader should suffice.

For 1/2-acre, a 100-130 lbs spreader should do.

And for one acre and over, look for spreaders that provide over 150 lbs worth of product capacity. The sweet spot being 175 lbs.

As well as the weight capacity, some spreaders also include how much product you can fill them with when it comes to cubic feet.

Sometimes, it’s more about space and less about weight.

Top tip – as an example, don’t try to fill a 50 lbs lawn spreader with 50 lbs worth of product, as you’ll run into all kinds of wasteful problems. Overfilling is always a recipe for a mess, so don’t get carried away just to try and save some time.

Flow Rate and Controls

Having a selection of flow rates with a spreader is important – particularly when it comes to overseeding or establishing new grass seeds.

Some lawn-care granular products/seeds will have a suggested flow rate written on the bag.

With others, you will have to do some math to figure out how much product you need in order to set the controls correctly and adequately cover the area. Or, it might well require a bit of trial and error to get right.

It’s very important that this calibration is accurate, as spreading too much or too little product can have seriously negative effects, including “burning” or damaging your existing turf.

While it might seem like the more options the better, you really don’t need a crazy amount of different increments. Just so long as you have a decent selection to do the job you should be fine.

And it’s a good idea to be able to reach these controls from the driving position – so pay attention to how you access them while you’re in motion.

Don’t be put off by the title of this post, but for more information on seeding and overseeding – including an in-depth guide on how to do it – check out this article on lawn care after winter.

The advice contained within can be used throughout the year – depending on your grass type.

Tires and Hardware

If you happen to have rough, uneven ground, then it might be a good idea to look for a spreader with larger pneumatic tires.

Something with a nice, grippy lug should do, with good clearance on the spreader, so you’re not likely to damage the undercarriage when going over lumps and bumps.

And make sure all other hardware on the spreader is up to scratch, durable, and treated for rust and corrosion.

Vehicle and Hitch Options

While most of the best tow behind fertilizer spreaders will come with a universal hitch designed to be compatible with the common makes of lawn tractor, it’s worth double-checking before purchase.

You certainly don’t want to get the thing home only to realize it can’t attach to your machine.

You’ll find the product’s compatibility in the specifications. For the most part, tow-behind spreaders can be used with lawn tractors, zero-turn mowers, and UTV/ATV vehicles.

Take a look at this article if you’re not sure what kind of mower you should have for your yard, and see if a ride-on machine is an answer. In order to use a tow-behind spreader, you need the right vehicle to actually tow it behind.

Cost

Cheap tow-behind spreaders aren’t going to be that good, but there are bargains to be had if you do your research well.

Most of the products I’ve included in this review aren’t going to break the bank, but you should consider how much use you’re going to get out of it before spending the big bucks.

Buy something quality if you’re going to be using it regularly – which will no doubt mean spending a little more.

And check out this review on the best budget zero-turn mowers – just in case you thought that technology was only available to the super-rich.

FAQs

What is the best tow-behind spreader?

That depends on your own circumstances. No two yards or gardens are the same, so the best spreader for my property might not be the best for yours.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of the products in this review, so take a look again and see if you can find the option that is most suitable for your needs.

Do Scotts make a tow-behind spreader?

You might think that the legendary lawn-care experts would make such a product, but at the time of writing, I could only find manual push/pull spreaders from Scotts.

Feel free to explore their website and prove me wrong, but perhaps they’ll design one in the future. After all, their broadcast spreaders are often the go-to choice for the homeowner.

Which is better: a drop spreader or a broadcast spreader?

They both have their advantages and disadvantages, which I’ve covered in more detail in the buyer’s guide above.

In a nutshell, a broadcast spreader is better for covering large areas, while a drop spreader is better if you need to be more accurate with the cast, such as along edges, borders, or anywhere you don’t want to drop the product.

How do you tow behind the broadcast spreader?

It’s pretty straightforward to set up your tow-behind spreader, providing you have the right hardware that is compatible with your vehicle.

Although the video below is geared towards Agri-Fab products, I think it’s useful as an overall guide for how to use a tow-behind spreader and get the best out of it, so give it a watch for some tips.

Who makes Brinly spreaders?

I have to admit I could find no information on why Brinly-Hardy products are now only labeled as Brinly, but the same company has been in operation for over 180 years.

As such they are still behind the Brinly spreaders, which are manufactured in Indiana, USA.

Summary

The best tow-behind spreaders will help you cover large areas of your property when your lawn needs rescuing, freshening up, treating for weeds and bugs, or a complete overhaul.

Let me know which product you’ve gone for and why, or if you have any tips and tricks for getting the best out of your lawn that you’d like to share with the community.

Best of luck, and happy spreading!

You’ve tried just about everything to destroy nuisance weeds and unwanted vegetation from your property, but it just doesn’t know when it’s beat.

It’s hunkered down and dug in like an Alabama tick.

And while you’ve shed blood, sweat, and tears on this mission, it’s time you radioed in for the big guns.

Enter the best commercial weed killers of 2025.

You’re not messing around anymore – the kid gloves are off. Reinforcements are about to rain liquid death down on your adversaries.

Read on to discover the most potent weed killers available on the market for residential use with a buyer’s guide thrown in as back up.

I love the smell of a dead weed in the morning.

TOP 13 Best Commercial Weed Killers 2025

Compare-N-Save Grass And Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Starting us off on our march towards freedom from weeds, is this budget-friendly herbicide concentrate from Compare N Save. Never too far away from “the best” reviews, this product has proven time and again that it can literally be compared to the brand names and still provide similar results.

Made with a high 41% glyphosate solution, it’s designed for use on patios, walkways, fence lines, and around the garden to give you visible results within two to four days.

This one-gallon container will mix up to 85 gallons of spray solution that can treat around 25,000 square feet. If you need a weed killer that will get the job done for just a bit more than a handful of loose change – this option is hard to beat.

Pros

Cons

Crossbow Concentrate Brush and Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Another commercial herbicide offered at an excellent price point, this option is a concentrated brush and weed killer for use anywhere you need to be completely clear of undesirable plant life. It’s a decent alternative to using a glyphosate solution, made with the active ingredient of 2,4-D acid.

Designed to control unwanted trees and brush, it will also tackle most broadleaf weeds across a range of non-crop areas and industrial sites.

Manufacturer Southern Ag is a reputable company when it comes to making high-quality herbicide, and this formula is no exception. It’s also a selective herbicide, having little effect on grasses if used correctly.

Pros

Cons

Sedge Ender Concentrate

This is a lawn-friendly weed killer that has been specifically designed to target sedge grasses and other nuisance lawn weeds. It will destroy yellow nutsedge and crabgrass, as well as numerous other pesky invaders, for use on warm and cool-season grasses.

Nutsedge is a particular nuisance and a troublesome adversary and often needs a dedicated herbicide to ensure it is kept at bay. With this product, Bonide offer results within a couple of days, so long as you use them as directed, and do your best to keep it away from desirable plants – even though it is a selective weed killer.

They also have some great options for killing Bermuda grass, so follow that link if you need some help with that troublesome menace.

Pros

Cons

Natural Armor Weed and Grass Killer

In an industry that’s often awash with harsh chemicals and formulas, it’s always nice to offer a milder option – especially if you’re looking for a strong weed killer and you have children and/or pets.

This offering from Natural Armour is 100% glyphosate free, made from all-natural ingredients to treat over 250 species of weeds and grass anywhere on your property. There’s no need to dilute or mix – you simply spray directly on to the plants and let the formula work its magic.

Probably the best commercial organic weed killer available.

Pros

Cons

Barren Weed Killer & Soil Sterilant

EPA registered, this non-selective herbicide is Barren by name and barren by nature.

Created to eliminate any vegetation it comes into contact with, the total kill formula takes no prisoners, and is designed for use around buildings, storage yards, and other industrial sites.

A soil sterilant, it offers long-lasting protection against weeds returning, and is recommended only for use on non-cropland areas and away from residential zones.

Extremely potent and powerful, I would advise great care when using this commercial weed killer – certainly nowhere near the prized roses.

Pros

Cons

Avenger Organic Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Designed for organic use, this concentrated herbicide is a post-emergent weed killer and safe to use around people and pets.

EPA approved, the non-toxic formula works in cool and cloudy conditions, and will not stain concrete, brick, or pavement patio finishes. You’ll see visible results inside two hours, and spray areas can be replanted not long after.

Made from citrus fruits, it has a pleasant aroma, and is capable of tackling most nuisance weeds around the home and garden.

This is a great option if you have large areas to cover, and you want to replant or use the soil in some way after the weeds have been eradicated.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

Here we have a classic example of a commercial total vegetation control product, that incorporates a powerful weed killer and preventer.

A persistent herbicide, RM43 will not only destroy all vegetation it comes into contact with, but it will keep any treated site weed-free for up to one year.

You’re guaranteed excellent coverage, too, as one gallon is capable of 17,297 square feet of weed control.

Ideal for use along fence rows, and around farm buildings and barns, this is an industrial-style herbicide that you can use in the home – just make sure you take great care when and where you dispense it.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Prodiamine Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Prodiamine 65 is a pre-emergent herbicide to provide you with excellent grass and broadleaf weed control. Ideal for use in both spring and fall, you can achieve season-long protection against crabgrass and other undesirable weeds in your desirable turfgrass.

A professional product, it’s best for use around nurseries, trees, established perennials, and wildflower plantings, and any non-crop region you wish to control annual bluegrass (poa annua), henbit, knotweed, chickweed, spurge, foxtail, and goosegrass.

One of the best commercial weed killers for lawns there is, and a solid alternative to more well-known brand names.

Pros

Cons

Round Up Pro Concentrate Systemic Herbicide

Now, this is interesting. This particular product is called Roundup Pro, and at 50.2% it has one of the highest amounts of glyphosate as the active ingredient in any commercially available weed killer (with Roundup Quik Pro being the only one higher).

However, it’s manufactured by Monsanto, a company that is actually no more, and one that has something of a checkered past – including controversies surrounding Roundup itself.

It seems this very potent, post-emergent herbicide is still readily available, so it’s up to you to decide if you’re happy using it on and around your property with a clear conscience.

Pros

Cons

Tenacity Turf Herbicide

Although this looks like it comes in such a small quantity (a syringe is included), this eight-ounce bottle is actually deceptively potent and will make up to 96 gallons of herbicide with 1/2 a teaspoon per gallon of water.

It should last you a long time with correct use.

Designed as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide for the selective contact and residual control of weeds in turf grasses, it will tackle over 46 nuisance broadleaf and grass species.

Tenacity’s active ingredient is 40% mesotrione, which is a naturally occurring compound – so you’re not using any harsh chemicals here. Very highly rated, this is a professional-grade product that will help you achieve excellent results for your lawns.

Pros

Cons

Milestone Specialty Herbicide

Milestone is another broad-spectrum weed killer for use on noxious and invasive species that appear in your lawn.

Best used to attack broadleaf weeds, like the Tenacity, it kills by both a post and pre-emergent effect, offering a super-fast knockdown within 24 hours, and long-lasting, residual control so weeds don’t come back.

No mixing is required, and it’s selective on most warm and cool-season grasses. Designed for commercial and agricultural use, it’s a potent weed killer that will also kill trees and shrubs should you require it to do that.

Another highly rated herbicide that will do the job it’s supposed to do – and then some. Just be careful you’re not spraying it on a windy day.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate

Homedepot.com

Here we have our last Roundup product which is their best concentrated weed killer for controlling widespread unwanted plant problems.

With a high percentage of glyphosate and designed for use in tank sprayers, you can cover a lot of ground and keep weeds at bay with one of Roundup’s most potent products available for residential use.

Ideal for use around flowers, shrubs, and trees, on patios, walkways, driveways, gravel areas, and mulch beds and along fences, edging and foundations, it’s rainproof within 30 minutes and you’ll see results in two to four days.

Cover 25,500 square feet and eradicate weeds from your property with this potent, post-emergent formula.

Pros

Cons

GrazonNext HL Herbicide

Grazon Next HL is a specialty herbicide that has been designed to kill more than 100 species of broadleaf weeds, including the hard-to-control perennials we all struggle with – such as nightshades, Canada thistle, horsenettle, and Texas bull nettle sharper.

Offers a fast burn-down all season long, and is safe to use on desirable grasses such as fescue, Bahia grass, and Bermuda grass – should it be required.

With no grazing restrictions regarding livestock, it’s designed for farm and agricultural use – but you can also have these benefits at home. Check out the very impressive reviews for this product and make your own mind up.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Commercial Weed Killer

There’s a lot to consider before you add your chosen commercial weed killer to the cart. Below, you’ll find a buyer’s guide that explains everything you should be looking out for.

Strength/Active Ingredients

Since we’re talking about commercial weed killers, perhaps the most important thing to consider is just how strong the product is.

Commercial herbicides are designed to be used by farmers, landscape professionals, around industrial and commercial sites, and at sport and leisure facilities – such as golf courses.

And these folks aren’t messing around – they want this nuisance vegetation dead.

With that in mind, you’ll find these products often contain some of the harshest chemicals and compounds – including the infamous glyphosate – which has been making headlines around the world in recent years.

There’s no doubt its ability to kill plants, but it’s the potential effects on humans and animals that are causing a stir.

When choosing a commercial herbicide for use around your home, check the active ingredients and their potency, and take great care when applying products of this strength.

Take into consideration water run-off, where you’re applying these chemicals, and if you have children or pets running around.

And if you prefer something a little milder, check out this review of the best pet-safe weed killers on the market.

For more information, and a short, crash-course in herbicide basics (including a word on the strength) check out the video below.

Selectivity

Another of the most important factors to consider when choosing a weed killer is in understanding what it is actually going to kill.

A selective weed killer will only attack certain plants and vegetation while leaving other species alone.

For residential purposes, perhaps the best use of a selective herbicide is on your lawn – where you certainly don’t want to kill off the desired grass, but you want to rid yourself of an invasive weed.

Of course, if you prefer not to use anything potentially harsh on your lawn, have a read of this article on how to remove weeds from your lawn without chemicals.

A non-selective weed killer will eliminate just about everything green that it comes into contact with.

They are the most potent of herbicides and should be used with great care, particularly around plants and vegetation that you want to keep.

Non-selective herbicides are ideal for use over larger areas where you simply want everything dead, and you’re not risking killing off anything desirable.

Aside from understanding selectivity, it’s also worth noting if the weed killer you’re interested in actually kills the species you want to remove.

Checking the label, reading online reviews, and listening to feedback from people who have actually been successful/unsuccessful with the product is an excellent way to figure out if it’s right for you.

For example, nettles can be an obnoxious, nuisance weed that are difficult to eradicate, so check out this dedicated article on how to get rid of nettles for more in-depth advice.

Pre/Post-Emergent

The life of a weed also needs to be understood (at least by the boffins in the chemical biology labs) in order to know how best to kill it.

With this in mind, three types of herbicides are readily available and are explained below.

Pre-plant herbicides will be used well before any weeds have had the chance to germinate, and in areas where a desirable crop is to be planted in the future.

Pre-emergent herbicides will kill the weed growth before germination, or before you see any vegetation breaking through the soil.

Post-emergent herbicides are specifically designed to destroy any existing and visible weeds that have sprouted and taken hold.

It should also be noted that post-emergent herbicides will either be ‘contact’ or ‘systemic.’ A contact herbicide will only kill what it touches, whereas a systemic herbicide will make its way through the plant and kill it from the root.

All commercial weed killers will fall under one of these categories, and it’s up to you to decide which you think will work best for your situation.

Persistence

When talking about the persistence of a weed killer, it’s simply referring to the length of time it will stay active in the soil after application. You will notice there are two types.

Persistent herbicides will prevent weeds from regrowing over a set period of time. This can vary from a few days or months, to up to a year and possibly more – depending on the strength.

Also called residual weed killers, they reside in the soil and are generally used in areas you want to keep clear of all plant life for as long as possible – without the need for further chemical application. Clearing weeds from driveways is a good example.

Non-persistent herbicides are exactly the opposite. They do not prevent any future regrowth, so plant life will come back to the treated area eventually.

While this might seem disadvantageous for weed killing, it’s more so that future crops can be planted in that soil.

Which type you choose will depend on what you want to achieve in certain areas around your garden over time.

Quantity

Commercial herbicides usually come in large quantities as more often than not they’re required to cover enormous areas.

Having said that, you can still purchase these formulas in smaller amounts, in spray or trigger guns, for example, to spot-treat, particularly stubborn weeds.

Remember, purchasing larger quantities will be more cost-effective in the long-run, but always choose the amount that suits your property and weed murdering requirements.

Application Methods

As well as coming in a variety of quantities, commercial weed killers are available in a variety of states and require suitable application methods to dispense destruction.

For smaller areas, trigger or spray guns will be suitable – especially if you just need to spot-treat one or two weeds.

If you need a step up from this, larger bottles are available that often come with their own spray applicator nozzle.

When treating lawns, granular weed killers are more common and are dispensed by using a lawn or seed spreader. They can also be useful around flower beds.

For larger areas, tank or backpack sprayers work best, usually with some kind of concentrate liquid herbicide that you need to dilute with water before applying.

And some herbicides require (or work best with) a surfactant – which changes the surface tension of the liquid and the target area it’s being applied to. This greatly helps it to penetrate the surface for more successful results.

A Note on Brand Names

If you were to ask anyone to name a weed killer, the chances are they would respond with “Roundup.”

While it’s the most famous brand name herbicide (certainly in the US and Canada), does it necessarily make a difference when it comes to actual results?

The answer is no.

Being the most well-known doesn’t always equate to being the best.

Having said that, there’s no doubting Roundup’s pedigree for weed massacre, it’s just that similar weed killers with almost identical ingredients also exist.

This is especially true after the glyphosate patent expired back in 2000 – and anyone can use that chemical formula in their weed killer products should they so wish.

In short, in the weed-killing world, although the brand name products have established themselves a loyal customer base – what works for one gardener might not work for you.

It might be worth a bit of trial and error – and you could end up discovering something that provides excellent results at a fraction of the cost.

Summary

Choosing the right herbicide for your needs isn’t as straightforward as you might think, as there are all kinds of products and formulas on the market, as the multiple gardening situations and scenarios that they cover.

But if you really just want to kill those pesky plants stone dead, then you need to add the best commercial weed killer to your ranks.

I hope this article has helped you discover the one that’s right for you, and let me know in the comments which product you have chosen and why.

Lawn care doesn’t completely stop during winter.

Sure, the grass is dormant, there might be less to do, and you can generally take a well-deserved break from intensive garden maintenance.

But for a truly enviable patch of grass, you’re not quite done just yet.

By implementing the tips and tricks in this article, you can see your lawn safely and healthily through the colder months, so it comes up smiling in the spring.

And that’s the difference between a good lawn, and a great one.

Let’s get started.

Winter Lawn Care – Too Long, Didn’t Read

In a rush?

Here’s a brief summary of what’s included in this article if you don’t have the time to read the whole thing.

A good fall/winter lawn care regimen includes:

We still highly recommend reading through each point in more detail, as you’ll find a wealth of expert tips and advice on how to achieve the best results.

Furthermore, you won’t necessarily need to do everything in the list above from September through to March/April – so it’s a good idea to read on to properly learn what goes where.

It’s also beneficial to understand how grass behaves during the winter, so let’s take care of that right now.

Knowing Your Grass Type

Winter grass care depends highly on the type of grass you have growing on your lawn. If you live in Northern climates, you probably have cool season grass while those living in Southern climates are more likely to have warm season grass.

But what’s the difference?

Cool season grass is usually a type (or species) of turf grass, designed for decoration, to be mowed more often and growing best in warm weather in spring and summer.

This is the most widespread lawn grass in the US, so you are likely to have this type on your lawn. Cool season grass becomes dormant (inactive) during colder seasons yet looks beautifully green most of the time. Plus, it’s said to absorb pollutants so it’s great for air quality too!

Warm season grass usually includes different types that take their origins from tropical areas. This kind of grass is made to be resistant to drought and grow the most during the hottest times of summer.

If you live in the Southern area, take note of the humidity – not all types of warm season grass are suited for places that are very dry.

Knowing the type of grass on your lawn and the conditions you live in will determine how much watering is needed and what your lawn needs are during winter months. And if there is even such thing as winter where you live!

What Happens to Grass During Winter?

Just as with all things nature, the season of winter makes your lawn go… well, quiet.

It doesn’t mean it’s becoming completely inactive, but it’s minimizing its growth in order to withstand the harsh weather.

During this time, the grass is more fragile. It will stop growing sometime during late October or early November – or whenever the temperatures drop regularly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

That’s when you should be thinking about the last mow of the season – but more on this step is coming up, below.

After it stops growing, the grass is slowly going to turn brown (again, depending on your species. Some grasses – particularly warm season varieties, will stay green all year round).

Help! My grass is dying!

No, it’s not.

Grass turning brown is perfectly natural, and absolutely no reason to panic. It then enters a dormant state to prepare for the really cold weather.

Brown grass isn’t dead or dying, it’s simply focused on conserving water, nutrients, and the energy it needs to survive.

Think of it as hunkering down or hibernating when the Mercury plummets. Which is pretty much what I do during the frigid winters of the Midwest.

And it’s because of those freezing temperatures that your lawn needs a little extra TLC to see it through to the spring.

Preparing Your Lawn for Winter

Winter lawn care starts well before winter arrives, and you might find that your fall yard work schedule is just as busy as it was in the summer – if not more so.

Here’s what you need to do:

Cleaning Up

Winterizing your lawn starts with ensuring it’s completely cleared of debris and detritus. You need to:

Once the lawn is free from such material, you’re ready to dethatch and aerate – keep reading for more information on those two important practices.

For a more in-depth fall lawn care guide – including steps and advice on how to properly prepare your turf for winter – follow that link.

And don’t forget to practice composting with all that decaying matter you clean up – get it out of your gutters, off your lawns, and into a compost bin!

Check out the video below, which explains how you can continue to compost through the winter months.

Winter Mowing

I don’t think I know anyone that genuinely enjoys mowing their lawn. Unless, maybe, you’ve got one of these riding lawn mowers, that is.

Thankfully, mowing the grass isn’t required during winter. Grass has all but stopped growing, and it becomes brittle and weak – particularly after frost.

Which also means the neighborhood is now blissfully quiet – without the cacophony of lawnmower engines every weekend. (And one of the many reasons why I’m a fan of eco-friendly battery-powered machines).

As mentioned above, your last mow of the season should come when the temperature has dropped constantly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and/or when the grass has visibly stopped growing.

As a rule of thumb, this is usually sometime during late October to early November.

But does height matter? What setting should you apply to your lawnmower for this final cut?

A pre-winter mow should be a little shorter than usual, to help protect your grass against snow mold, and other such lawn diseases.

Never allow your grass to remain long through winter – as you’re asking for all kinds of trouble come the spring.

This article on proper mowing heights through the seasons will tell you more.

Aerating and Dethatching

Once you’re left with a visibly tidier lawn, you might think it’s been completely cleared.

But there’s still a bit of work to do.

Look closely, right on the soil surface, at the base of the grass blades.

It’s here you’ll find a layer or material called “thatch” – dead plant life, debris, and organic matter that accumulates just above the soil.

This layer can be detrimental to the health of your lawn, harboring weeds, pests, and unwanted critters, as well as choking out the grass itself.

It needs to be removed.

Check out this full guide on how to dethatch your lawn, including why, where, when, and how to do it successfully.

Once properly dethatched, you can move on to aeration.

After the stresses of the summer, including drought, foot traffic, and other factors, your lawn is likely to be fairly compact.

Aeration is the process that loosens up the soil, and allows your lawn to breathe.

Aside from encouraging healthy grass blades, it has numerous other benefits, all of which are discussed in this aeration article. The link also has tips on how to properly aerate your lawn.

Overseeding and Repair

If your lawn has bald/bare spots, or has suffered under heavy traffic, pet and animal urine, or any other stresses through the summer months, this is a good opportunity for some repair work.

Overseeding is the best way to bring back barren or damaged areas of grass on your lawn.

While it’s going to be of no use through winter itself, the fall is one of the best times of year to overseed, as it will help keep your grass healthy and strong as the temperature drops.

And, of course, it will patch up any problem areas where you see more brown than you do green.

Go here for a full guide on how to help your grass grow healthy and thick – including advice on the best overseeding practices.

Winter Fertilizing

Fertilizing isn’t necessary during winter. In fact, it would cause much more harm than good.

Imagine how crabby you would be if you were asleep and someone tried to force-feed you!

But you should still aim to fertilize one final time just before the first frost is due, and after you’ve mowed, dethatched, aerated, and overseeded of course.

Make sure you choose the right kind of fertilizer for your soil and lawn. The video below explains this in more depth.

Winter Watering

Much like mowing, your lawn isn’t going to need watering through the winter – with a couple of caveats.

If you find your region experiencing a warmer, drier winter than normal, then it is advisable to give your lawn a drink from time to time.

However, as in most cases, snow and rainfall will be more than enough to provide the moisture your lawn needs from November through April.

And remember – overwatering and too much moisture can damage a lawn, so only reach for the hose if absolutely necessary.

Observation and Action

Now, you might think to yourself – all of these steps have taken place before winter – how do I actually care for my lawn during winter?!

And it’s a great point to make.

Once your winter lawn care prep is finished (likely to be around early November for most people) you might think there’s little else to do.

But there are two more, very important steps in helping your lawn through the winter months.

Keep your eyes on it.

And keep your feet off it!

Winter lawns are brittle and weak, and if you’re trudging your size 11s all over the yard, you’re going to damage grass that’s already struggling enough.

So, observe from a distance, and note things like excess moisture build up (such as poor drainage), signs of pests or disease, and any weather-related effects in your region.

Plus any other unforeseen incidents that might cause your lawn unwanted grief.

Then, you can act accordingly, and give your turf what it needs – only when it needs it.

And when the snows finally start to clear, and a bit of color returns to the world, check out this article on how to properly care for your lawn after winter.

Because then the hard work really begins.

Again!

What if it Snows?

If it snows – build a snowman!

A blanket of snowfall can actually be beneficial to your grass, as it provides a nice boost of nitrogen to the soil, at the same time as protecting it from the cold and wind chill it had previously been suffering under.

It also acts as an insulator, warming the freezing surface a little, and giving the grass a much-needed drink from the moisture in the snow.

As such, you don’t need to be too concerned when the white stuff arrives. Your lawn should survive perfectly fine under it.

Tools and Maintenance

Now that your lawn has its winter coat on, you can sit back, relax, and reflect on your lawn care regimen.

How did you do?

What were your successes?

What could you have done better?

And do you have a heated garage?!

While you’re pondering the year’s gardening experience, you might also like to take a look at all your lawn care tools.

Because lawn care starts and ends with having the proper gear and equipment in your arsenal.

Sharp tools, and well-oiled machines. What needs to move can move, and what needs to be fixed stays fixed.

While yard work is all but over for the season, winter is a great time to maintain, repair, and replace any tools and yard machines you might have.

Providing, of course, you have a comfortable place in which to do it!

Personally, I don’t have a warm garage, so I wait until temperatures start to increase before maintaining my lawn care armory.

But do whatever you feel comfortable with.

Here’s a complete list of all the lawn care tools you’ll ever need, and don’t miss our complete annual lawn care guide – which shows you what to do on a month-by-month calendar basis.

FAQs

How do I keep my grass nice in winter?

There’s not a lot you can actually do during winter itself (except be observant and stay off your lawn), so winter grass care starts in the fall.

Follow the regimen above and your lawn should return green and healthy come the spring.

Should I do anything to my lawn before winter?

Yes. In fact, it’s during the last days of autumn that are perhaps most important for winter lawn care health.

It’s during these days that you should be undertaking your final mow, dethatching and aerating, overseeding (if required), and laying down a winter prep fertilizer.

Is it better to leave your grass longer for winter?

No. You might think that longer grass is going to protect it – as it does during the heat of the summer – but you actually need to cut your grass shorter for winter.

That’s so it doesn’t create a breeding ground for mold and other diseases – particularly when under a blanket of snow.

Do I need to fertilize my lawn before winter?

You don’t need to – your lawn should survive perfectly fine without it.

But if you really want to make sure it bounces back as healthily and green as possible, then it certainly won’t hurt to apply some fertilizer in the fall.

Just make sure you’re using the right type of fertilizer with the right balance of nutrients for your soil. When in doubt, use soil testing kits to be sure.

Should my grass be watered in the winter?

No, it’s not necessary. Snow and rainfall will take care of that.

That is, of course, unless you’re in a region that doesn’t get much snow or rain, and/or you experience a freakishly warm and dry winter.

In that case, feel free to break out the sprinkler as and when required. Just be careful not to overwater – which can cause more harm than good – particularly during the colder months.

Should I aerate my lawn in winter?

During winter it will be too late – the ground will be frozen solid, and aerating is a tough enough job as it is!

The fall is the best time to aerate your lawn – after the stresses of summer, and just before the first frost of the season.

Conclusion

Hopefully, these winter lawn tips will help you and your lawn prepare for the next winter – and stop you from feeling like grass is always greener elsewhere.

Now, do you have any tips of your own for lawn care in winter that you have found useful or even life-changing?

Do share them in the comment section!

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna, some of the leading brands in riding lawnmowers. We will then compare the pros and cons of each brand.

Don’t worry, I have put together a few FAQs to make things even more transparent, hopefully.

Best Models of Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna

I have taken 3 models of each of the 3 brands, which, after a lot of research, I consider to be the best on the market. So, without much further ado, let’s get into the finer details of these brands:

Husqvarna YTH24V48 Riding Lawn Mower

Size does matter when you are looking at acres of grass, begging to be mowed! This lawn tractor from Husqvarna shows its capability with an ample 48-inch cutting deck.

The 24 hp engine generates powerful torque thanks to the hydrostatic transmission. It also results in smoother operation and better fuel efficiency.

Despite its large engine and wide cutting deck, the mower itself is adequately compact, which ensures easy maneuverability.

It’s a powerful machine at a surprisingly reasonable price, striking a balance between performance and affordability.

A cruise control option allows you to use to maintain a constant speed, which is useful for tackling rough terrain and combating fatigue, and it offers a 16-inch turning circle for negotiating obstacles and tight spaces

It’s also an absolute joy to drive, and it’s well worth checking out for that reason alone.

Cub Cadet CC30H Riding Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

If you have space constraints, then this riding lawn mower could possibly be what you’re looking for. The mower has a rear engine.

It offers an in-between solution when your lawn is too large to use the walking model but too small for the larger, riding versions.

It has a powerful 382-cc engine with auto choke, with mow-in-reverse technology, so you can get the job done in no time. And the hydrostatic transmission offers a silky-smooth ride, with adjustable seating for all-day comfort.

But don’t expect to ride up steep hills on this one. With a cutting deck of just 30 inches, it doesn’t promise to cover vast tracts of lawn very fast.

Nevertheless, this lawn tractor offers significant maneuverability. You can mow up to one acre of lawn, comfortably. And you can do so even when the light starts to fade, with the inclusion of an LED headlamp, which is handy in all weather conditions.

The deck has a built-in high-pressure washing system, so you can be sure no material or debris remains, and the CC30H is ready to be taken on its next spin.

John Deere S140 Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Offering a 48-inch cutting deck with a 22 HP V-Twin engine, this John Deere lawn tractor is ideal for larger yards and gardens.

Powerful enough to tackle the toughest bagging and mulching tasks, it features a hydrostatic transmission for a smooth drive, as well as side-by-side foot pedals to control speed and direction of travel.

Three blades are in operation, with an edge cutting system that’s capable of lifting the grass for a superior cut. And the fully welded steel frame and cast iron front axle provides the strength to do it.

John Deere has left no stone unturned by way of comfort and convenience, with an ergonomic operation station that’s fully adjustable, with easy-to-use controls, and a 15-inch, heat-resistant open back seat.

The super-powerful battery is capable of first-time starts even after a period of no use, there’s even an app you can download to get fuel levels, engine hours and other performance-related data.

And with 13 different cutting heights, you can be sure to get the exact look you want for your yard. Check out this article for tips on how to achieve a professional striped lawn which should be no problem for this machine from such an iconic land maintenance company.

Husqvarna Z242F Zero-Turn Lawn Mower

When you have a big lawn but have to deal with tight corners, there’s nothing like a zero-turn riding lawnmower to get the job done.

If you have been using a regular riding mower and are considering an upgrade, this would make a good choice.

The Kawasaki gasoline engine delivers a respectable 21.5 hp, and the cutting deck has a width of 42 inches. It has a hydrostatic transmission to provide consistent torque and fuel-efficient operation.

High performance blades provide razor-sharp cut, aided by a superior air-flow system and deep deck that significantly improves bagging. And there’s a choice of three options when it comes to how you dispose of cut grass.

Capable of handling tricky terrain, the castors and wheels are tough and durable, and you can enjoy speeds of up to 6.5 MPH as you make short work of your unruly lawn.

In the driving position, you’ll find an ergonomic control panel, adjustable seating, and an anti-slip foot area for improved comfort and safety.

This particular model has been designed for residential use. Take a look at this article on the best commercial zero-turn mowers for more options in this class.

John Deere Z345R Zero-Turn Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

If you are looking for an alternative zero-turn riding mower within the same price bracket, you could go in for this one from John Deere.

The Z345R zero-turn mower has a powerful V-twin engine and is easy to control. The adjustable seat and armrests make for a comfortable drive, and there are even a couple of cup holders provided.

Zero turn mowers normally have a bad rep when it comes to handling hills and slopes, but this model offers enough power to tackle such terrain, with mowing speeds of up to seven miles per hour if you need it.

The floating deck also helps, as well as providing an improved cut quality when traveling at higher speeds, with dual EZT transmissions and large wheels to help achieve maximum performance.

And this zero-turn machine has certainly been designed for that, offering the fastest possible cut without sacrificing the finished aesthetic; while the three-gallon fuel tank lets you play all day.

An 18-inch seat back has thick foam padding for comfort, and the armrests provide additional support. A rubber floor mat offers a non-slip grip, while ensuring the foot deck remains clean and scratch-free.

Cub Cadet XT1 LT42 Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Again, this model by Cub Cadet uses hydrostatic transmission with an adjustable seat, so you can look forward to a comfortable ride. To add to the comfort is a cup holder, and you get a soft-grip steering wheel, as well.

There are some other optional multi-seasonal attachments, which let you use this versatile lawn tractor all year round.

This lawn tractor is suitable for any lawn space under two acres with its 18 hp gas front engine and the 42-inch mowing deck.

Boasting a 547 CC engine, the XT1 features intelligent technology that provides you with up to 20% more power when and where you need it. And you won’t even notice it happening.

When you’re attempting to negotiate tough and challenging conditions, the throttle will automatically adjust to suit the terrain, freeing the engine up, so it can tackle even wet grass.

Mowing the lawn while wet isn’t recommended, but if you’re going to do it, you might as well have the best machine to do it with. And check out this article for some tips on how to cut wet grass safely.

With built-in LED headlights, you can keep working into the dusk, and the three-liter gas tank certainly lets you stay out there for as long as you need.

John Deere S180 Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Backed with a 24 HP engine, the S180 from John Deere is a serious lawn tractor for serious lawn maintenance.

This is the premium model in the S-series range, with a whopping 54-inch deck to make short work of larger lawns and gardens, featuring an advanced air-filtration system for prolonged engine life.

Powerfully built and super strong, it handles mowing and hauling with ease, while the ergonomic seating area is designed for comfort, with straightforward controls that are simple to grasp.

Flexible forward and rear facing travel is available, with no less than 10 different driving positions, so you can find the one that’s right for you.

It has an easy-change oil system capable of a 30-second oil change, with an easy-to-read fuel gauge, ensuring you always know exactly how much is left in the tank.

As far as lawn tractors go, in the battle between these leading brands, the S180 makes a strong case for being the best.

Husqvarna MZ61 Briggs & Stratton Zero Turn Mower

If you’re looking for a next-level lawnmower, then you’ve come to the right place. This is an absolute beast of a machine, capable of a huge 54-inch cut, backed by a Briggs & Stratton engine that boasts 27 HP.

Along with the hydrostatic transmission, this monster can offer some seriously peppy ground speeds, ensuring that commercial-sized lawn cutting job isn’t as daunting as you first thought.

Especially considering its five gallon fuel tank – which should be enough for your football field of a backyard.

The fabricated 11-gauge steel deck has an ergonomically designed lifting system, so you can adjust the height from the comfort of the operating seat.

And the seat itself offers a high back, with foam-padded armrests and built-in vibration dampeners, so you won’t get the shakes when driving this for hours on end.

The only downside seems to be the enormous price tag – which is fair enough when you consider the size and specs of this professional-grade machine.

And it even has an hour meter with service reminder – so you know exactly when it needs a tune up.

Cub Cadet Ultima ZT2 60 Zero Turn Mower

Homedepot.com

Cub Cadet’s take on the commercial-grade zero turn mower is this beast, with a 24 HP V-twin Kawasaki engine under the hood.

While it won’t quite make the MotoGP, it still offers some seriously impressive speeds, with the 726 CC engine housed in a continuous tubular steel frame that offers unbeatable strength.

Designed for use on properties over five acres, it’s capable of tackling gentle slopes and multiple obstacles.

The AeroForce cutting system is purported to be best-in-class, while the operator cab is decked with features to make lawnmowing a joy.

That includes a foot-operated deck lift, a vibration-dampening rubber floor, an adjustable comfort seat, and plenty of legroom for you to stretch out and enjoy the mowing experience.

Dual LED headlights keep things illuminated in lower light conditions and bad weather, and there’s a hinged, removable floor hatch, so you can access the inner workings for easy maintenance.

There’s no wonder this is an award-winning zero turn mower from Cub Cadet.

The Stand-Off: Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna

Now, having covered the various models of these three brands, it’s time to compare each of them with each other.

I have highlighted the models of these particular brands based on their popularity in the riding lawn mower market. Each one is a good product, but then in different ways, one will always be better than the other.

Let’s Meet the Players

Cub Cadet

Founded in 1960 and headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Cub Cadet manufactures quality outdoor power equipment, including utility vehicles, lawn tractors, and snowblowers.

The baby of the group might not have quite the history of its peers, but they’ve certainly managed a lot within that time, and are a household name in their own right.

They are credited with inventing several “world firsts” including the hydrostatic transmission lawn tractor, three-stage snowblower, and robotic golf green mower.

And it was these guys who brought in the first mobile maintenance app – a technology that has been quickly replicated by other brands.

It’s fair to say that Cub Cadet has been at the forefront of innovation in the industry for over six decades.

John Deere

For farmers and forestry workers, seeing the iconic green and yellow livery of John Deere is like the equivalent of a comforting hug.

The US company was established in 1837, and they’ve grown to become the go-to choice for agriculture and construction professionals across the country.

“Nothing runs like a Deere” is their clever company slogan, and they’re not far wrong. Their tractors are built to last a lifetime.

Headquartered in Illinois, their legendary status has even made it into popular culture, including films and country songs.

They’re also a committed sustainability and climate leader in the industry, dedicated to producing more while using less.

Husqvarna

The world-famous Swedish brand is one of the oldest companies in the world, with roots back in 1689 as a rifle manufacturer.

In the years since, Husqvarna has made just about everything at one time or another.

Today, they’re more synonymous with their chainsaws, designing and building some of the best foresting machines in the world. You can take a look at some excellent examples in this review.

They’re the go-to choice for many foresters and arborists in the 43 countries they currently operate in.

They also cover every other garden power tool you can think of, and they have an extensive and wide-reaching dedicated fan base across the globe.

Power

The first concern you may have about a riding lawn mower is power.

The Cub Cadet models featured in this list are not as powerful as the other two brands. However, these are smaller versions, meant for smaller lawn space.

Hence, if you are looking for a bigger and more powerful machine, you need to go for a Husqvarna or John Deere lawn tractor. This is especially applicable if your surrounding terrain is hilly.

Don’t worry, if the above models didn’t interest you, we’ve put together a separate article on the best lawn mowers for hills.

Price Tag

An essential aspect of any product is its cost.

However, excellent a product may be, we are always interested in how much we need to spend on it. However big your property may be, you will always have budget considerations.

From the budget point of view, I find the Cub Cadet models the most cost-effective. But if money isn’t a constraint, then either of the other brands, Husqvarna or John Deere, fall within a similar price range.

Ease of Use

I feel that this is a tricky issue. The winner here, of course, goes to the Cub Cadet models with their small, compact machines.

The bigger and heavier machines from Husqvarna and John Deere are relatively more challenging to handle.

I must say here, that the John Deere Z345R Zero-Turn lawn tractor is easy to handle due to its lightweight controls and easy maneuverability. Hence if you are looking for a lighter vehicle, either of the Cub Cadet models is easy to use.

However, if you are to get a heavier model, then you would be looking at the John Deere models in terms of ease of use.

Overall Efficiency

Having sifted through the information regarding the performance of the models of these three brands, I chose the John Deere Z345R zero-turn gas riding lawn mower as the clear overall winner.

When you are looking for efficiency, it means that you want the maximum output from the minimum effort you put in. And that is what you get from this model by John Deere.

When you want a machine that gets your work done effortlessly, no matter what volume of work is involved, you don’t look at things like price or size. You need to get the job done fast and efficiently.

Hence, with all its useful features, and a top speed of seven miles per hour, you’ve got a clear winner! This puts the Husqvarna and Cub Cadet models in the second and third place, respectively.

FAQs

I have tried to cover as many features as possible with these riding lawn mower models. However, after reading all this, you might still have a few questions in light of the information I have provided.

So, here are answers to some frequently asked questions (FAQs) should you have them.

Is Husqvarna better than John Deere?

John Deere has its fair share of complaints. But it has been pointed out that none of these have been consistent and most complaints tend to be minor.

On the other hand, Husqvarna has received a dose of bad publicity about expensive repairs and misleading warranty information. Further, consider the long-term performance of John Deer Vs Husqvarna, after about say, four years.

The percentage of John Deere lawn tractors breaking down is relatively less than that of the Husqvarna machines of the same category.

Is Cub Cadet better than John Deere?

When it comes to consistent quality, John Deere always wins hands down.

The Cub Cadet riding lawn mowers are quite versatile in their operation, and even slightly cheaper than the John Deere ones in the same class. And, you get a relatively equal cutting performance.

However, if you put both brands side-by-side, John Deere has a lower failure rate.

Does John Deere make their own engines?

Here, the answer is yes, and no. John Deere makes their own engines of higher-power capacity, like 100 hp and above. They have a diesel engine manufacturing plant in Waterloo, Iowa.

However, for smaller engines of less than 100 hp, the company uses other brands like Kawasaki, Briggs & Stratton, and Yanmar Diesels.

How many hours does a John Deere lawn tractor last?

The durability of any lawn tractor has a lot to do with how you handle the preventive maintenance schedules. If you follow the guidelines provided in the service manual, you can get the most extended life out of your lawn tractor.

However, there is a consensus among users that you can get about 500 hours to 1,000 hours out of the smaller models, and the bigger models will give you from 1,500 hours to 2,000 hours.

But, as long as the spare parts of your lawn tractor are available, it can last almost forever!

How to deal with a lawn tractor that won’t start?

There are several reasons for the engine not starting. To begin with, check if there is sufficient fuel in the tank. Now turn the blades manually to check if they are free or if they’ve jammed for any reason.

The most common reason for a lawn tractor to have starting problems is a faulty spark plug. Check to see if the spark plug is fitted tightly enough and that the cables are in place and not damaged.

You can clean the plug or change it if it seems to be damaged. You could also check the choke/cable to see everything is functioning correctly.

If you’ve left your lawn tractor outside and idle in the winter months, then you probably need to replace the fuel.

Why does a lawn tractor stop working on wet grass?

Wet grass is sticky because it tends to get pulled up by the mower blades along with a considerable quantity of mud. This clogs up the blades and the internal parts.

Also, the soil becomes soft, and the tractor’s wheels start to sink into the dirt, which can cause the cutting deck almost to touch the surface.

Ultimately, the blades get jammed with mud and the engine stalls. This is extremely dangerous for electric-powered machines because unless equipped with an overload protector, the motor could quickly burn out.

How can you make a lawnmower engine be less noisy?

Since these engines are mostly rather basic, two-stroke engines, they are inherently noisier than their more refined counterparts.

Also, they are air-cooled and not water-cooled. Air-cooled engines are louder. The mufflers of water-cooled engines are covered by a water jacket, which cuts down the noise considerably.

However, you can modify the muffler, but the more you stifle the exhaust, the more chance is there to compromise on the power of the engine.

But, be aware that a poorly-maintained engine is likely to be noisier. So, ensure to maintain your engine regularly and see that it is properly tuned.

What is the speed of the blades of a riding lawn mower?

Many factors decide the speed of a riding lawnmower. For example, the engine tends to slow down a bit while the mower is climbing a hill.

However, the average speed of riding lawn mower blades is usually between 2,800 RPM to 3,200 RPM. The rotational speed of the blades at the tips can be between 200 MPH to 250 MPH.

How can I sharpen my lawnmower blade?

Dismantle the blade carefully noting the location. Hold the blade in a vise and use a file to sharpen the dull edges at a 45-degree angle. Take care not to sharpen excessively.

Once done, replace the blade and repeat with all the other blades.

If you don’t have a file, not to worry, check out this article on the best lawn mower blade sharpeners. Yes, there are other options out there!

Conclusion

I hope that you found this article useful. By now, you should have a better idea about the pros and cons of these three models of riding lawnmowers.

The one thing I think we can take away after looking at these three brands is that there really isn’t a best or worst in these products. Each person has a unique user experience, with their individual requirements.

Hence, if you are looking for a suitable riding lawn mower, you need to be aware of what your needs are and your circumstances. The information in this comparative review of Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna should help you make a suitable choice for yourself.

Happy mowing!

Ground hornets are almost impossible to miss since they have large bodies. Their physique helps them catch other bugs, and they have a very predatory nature. If you notice these imposing bees flying around your home, it is best to learn how to get rid of ground hornets in case they are living close by.

The Basics of Ground Hornets

Hornets are larger than ground bees and have a more dangerous sting. There is no difference between ground hornets and tree hornets when it comes to size. They choose a different place to build their nest, and that’s it.

Ground hornets can inhabit walls as well as old tree stumps. However, their favorite place is dry or loose soil.

Just like every animal that digs holes in the yard, hornets don’t like obstacles. They could also live in flowerbeds. Considering their nests are underground, the removal is a bit tricky but not impossible.

If you want to know when are ground hornets least active so you could remove the nest, the answer is at night. They have poor sight and usually don’t come out after dark.

Of course, wearing protective gear such as thick landscaping gloves is recommended because some hornets might get out of the nest and try to deal with the attacker, and that’s you. Seek immediate ground hornets sting treatment in case of an allergy.

How to Get Rid of Ground Hornets: 3 Methods

Soap and Water Mixture

If you ever had to deal with ground wasps, you already know that soap and water mixture is the easiest way to get rid of them. The same method can be applied to ground hornets.

First, you need to locate the nest and cover the entrance with a fabric. Secure it in place, so it doesn’t move. Then pour the mixture of soap and water into the hole.

Water should drown the hornets that are in the nest as the fabric prevents them from swarming out. Soap will immobilize their wings and make flying impossible. Leave the nest overnight with the covering and remove it in the morning.

A DIY Hornet Trap

You haven’t located the nest yet, but hornets are making you uncomfortable? A DIY trap might be the best solution. It is the most effective way of minimizing the number of hornets in your vicinity without applying insecticides.

Pet owners and people who don’t like using chemicals in their yard often choose this method.

You will need a soda bottle for this, the larger, the better. Cut it at the neck and put some olive oil or something sweet on the inside. Pour some water in as well. Turn the piece you have just cut off, remove the cap, and place it back into the bottle.

You could also make holes on the side if you plan to hang the trap.

Hornets will be attracted to whatever you choose to put inside. Don’t neglect the trap and empty it as often as possible. You could also add a couple of drops of soap if you are worried that ground hornets might not drown right away.

Insecticide Dust

Insecticide dust is the best way to get rid of ground hornets around plants. Contrary to popular belief, these chemicals will not affect flowers in your garden.

When you purchase the insecticide dust, make sure you get the additional equipment as well. It includes a duster with a long pole that will help you spray the nest without getting too close.

You also need to use insecticide dust at a specific time. Ground hornets should be in the nest when you spray, so do it during the night or before dawn. The dust should be applied directly into the opening.

After that, wait for two to three days before getting close to the nest to inspect the results.

The Prevention

Now that you have removed the colony from your garden, it might be the perfect time to learn how to prevent ground hornets from building nests again.

If you have used poison or any other chemical, hornets will know that returning to their previous nest is out of the question, especially if the queen is dead.

You can also make your yard unliveable for them. This is quite simple because hornets love dry and quiet places. So take good care of your lawn by mowing it regularly and keeping the ground moist. Focus on flowerbeds as well.

FAQs

Is it safe to mow the yard if I have ground hornets?

Ground hornets are not aggressive unless they sense danger. Coming super close to their nest with a lawnmower is considered a threat, and the chances are you will be attacked.

The entrance to the nest is small and almost invisible so you might bump into it by accident. Those of you who have noticed a lot of hornets flying around your garden lately should locate the nest first. Then mow the lawn and keep a safe distance from the hornets.

Are ground hornets aggressive?

Hornets are overly protective but will not sting a human without being provoked. Guarding the nest is their number one priority, and anyone who comes close to it could be attacked by these bees.

Each nest has a “team” that stays close to the entrance of the nest. Once they sense something is up, the guards will alert the rest of the colony. It is also important to mention that hornets can sting several times since their stinger doesn’t fall off.

Does killing a hornet attract more?

The short answer is yes. If you kill a hornet close to its nest, the chances are you will summon the entire colony to come after you. A dead hornet releases a pheromone that immediately attracts other nearby hornets.

Remember that a couple of stings may not be deadly, but if a colony attacks you, the aftermath could be horrible.

Where do hornets go when their nest is destroyed?

Do you want to learn how to destroy an in-ground hornets’ nest, but curious about where they will go afterward?

Some hornets will return to the site and hang around for a couple of days, trying to communicate with other surviving members of the colony.

They could try to rebuild it in another location if the queen is alive. If not, hornets will try to get accepted to another nest or die on their own.

What smells do hornets hate?

Both wasps and hornets are repulsed by the smell of peppermint. You can keep them away from your garden by planting some peppermint in the flowerbeds.

Optionally, use peppermint oil and spray your yard now and then. It is completely natural and pet-safe.

They are also not fond of wormwood, citronella, eucalyptus, and spearmint.

Summary

Learning how to kill ground hornets can come in handy if you want to spend a lot of time in your yard without constantly thinking you might get stung. Ground hornets are not solitary bees, and they create large colonies.

There are several methods you could use against them, and some require things you already have in the household, such as water and soap.

If you want to know what kills ground hornets most effectively, the answer would be insecticide dust because it is a type of poison. It works quickly and can destroy an entire colony without putting you and your family at risk.

But whatever option you choose, make sure you are well protected when you go out there to deal with ground hornets.

There are various models on the market today, and your choice depends on the needs at hand and personal preferences. In this article, I have compiled reviews of some top-rated lawn sweepers and a comprehensive buying guide for an easy selection process.

The 12 Best Lawn Sweepers in 2025

Agri-Fab 42-Inch Tow Lawn Sweeper

One of the things you should keep in mind when looking for a lawn sweeper is the overall design. This particular model from Agri-Fab comes in a simple yet functional design. It is super easy to use and works great if you tend to clean up regularly.

One thing I love about the design is the adjustable brush height. If you have various lengths of grass on your lawn, this is a feature to keep in mind. With this, you only need to set it above the ground to your preferred height.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Inc 52-Inch Lawn Sweeper

It is important to note that not all models are compatible with the type of tractor you have when looking for a lawn sweeper. Luckily, this 52-inch model from Agri- Fab is designed to match most tractors for secure attachment and use.

It is quite versatile, and considering the size, it does an excellent job of clearing a vast lawn. What’s more, the lawn sweeper has an infinite height adjustment feature. This ensures it works well for different needs allowing you to customize it for desirable results.

Pros

Cons

Brinly STS-42BHDK Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

If your sole purpose of getting a lawn sweeper is to clear the lawn after dethatching, I recommend getting this one. It comes with a dethatcher, which cuts the job time in half. It allows you to dethatch your grass and sweep simultaneously, which is great for large lawns.

But, what if you do not need the dethatcher?

Well, you might need to dethatch your grass once in a while, but if that is not a regular need for you, then you can still use this model solely as a sweeper. The good thing is that you can raise the tines using the adjustment handle to use it as a sweeper. You do not have to struggle to remove the dethatcher, and you still keep it handy if you need it at some point.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman 42-inch Tow Lawn Sweeper

Craftsman has some of the best garden tools and equipment. This tow lawn sweeper, in particular, is designed for easy use, ensuring you have better control all through. It is the best lawn sweeper for pine needles, thanks to the reinforced brushes.

Finding a balance in the functionality and quality of lawn sweepers can be quite a challenge. Luckily, this design seems to have it all figured out. The large hopper, stable wheels, and quality brushes all add up to its long-lasting quality.

Pros

Cons

Yard Commander 42-inch Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

I will admit I was a little skeptical about adding this lawn sweeper to the list. But, it has so much potential and can be the perfect choice for beginners in lawn care. The design is simple, seamless, and easy to figure out. On this note, it is less of a hassle putting up and setting it in place to sweep.

This 42-inch tow-behind lawn sweeper is ideal for clearing twigs, grass clippings, and leaves. It comes with a 12.9 cubic foot nylon hopper that is super easy to empty as you go. If you are worried about the quality, this lawn sweeper will prove you wrong and stand the test of time, thanks to the rust-resistant powder coating on the metal parts.

Pros

Cons

Brinly STS-427LXH Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

If I were to choose between the different types of lawn sweepers, I would go for the tow-behind design. This, like this model, is easy to use and works well for different sizes of lawns. The Brinly 42-inch is the best lawn sweeper for grass clippings and pine needles. It also works well for old grass after dethatching, leaving your lawn in the best condition.

How about the design?

The sweeper features easy height adjustment allowing you to choose the most appropriate height. Additionally, the twist-lock feature ensures the height remains consistent even when sweeping over uneven terrain. The 20-cubic foot hamper is large enough, and together with the 42-inch sweep, this model is efficient and time-saving.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 42SWP22 Sweeper

This lawn sweeper from Ohio Steel is quite unique from others on the list. But that does not mean it is any challenging or hectic to operate. In fact, it is one of the simplest designs on the market and ultimately one of the best for regular sweeping.

Why?

It features a long 42-inch sweeper, which is excellent for a medium to a large lawn. With this one, you will only need a few rounds to sweep the entire yard. I also love that it comes with a comprehensive guide on how to use it, including a set of assembly instructions. On this note, I recommend it if you are a beginner and looking for a simple option.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 50SWP26 PRO Sweeper

I love to see the different models brands have, just to compare and see the best features of each. This is why I included this model from Ohio Steel. It is a little different from the 42-inch, but the functionality and efficiency are the same.

It looks like an advancement from the 42-inch and comes in a more robust and stable form. It features solid steel for all metal components to ensure it lasts long and works well each time. It features a 26 cubic foot bag, which is larger than most other options. On this note, the sweeper is ideal for large lawns where you need to clear a whole lot of things.

Pros

Cons

Agri Fab 45-0492 Lawn Sweeper

This Agri Fab model had to make it to the list. It is one of the best in terms of quality and a perfect choice for a regular user. The 44-inch lawn sweeper works well for any size of the lawn. It features a 25 cubic foot hopper, which empties pretty quickly as you go.

Additionally, it comes with a height adjustment lever fitted with an easy-to-use indicator. This feature ensures it never slips and provides optimum performance at any height. More to this, the improved dump lever works seamlessly to operate without you leaving the tractor seat.

Pros

Cons

Earthwise LSW70021 Lawn Sweeper

Most lawn sweepers on the market are tow-behind models, but I found this push lawn sweeper. It is the perfect choice for a beginner that does not have a tractor and works well for small lawn maintenance.

How well does it perform, though?

It comes with a 21-inch brush-width which, although smaller from most designs, works well for regular use. It features a spinning rake-like action to sweep clippings and leaves off the lawn surface into a collection bag. The best thing is that the height is adjustable, allowing you to customize it to match your needs.

Pros

Cons

Scotts LSW70026S Push Lawn Sweeper

Another option if you are looking for a push lawn sweeper is this model from Scotts. It is designed for regular use and features a 26-inch sweeping width- a few inches more than the Earthwise model. On this note, it provides the perfect balance of size and effectiveness.

How?

The body is made of lightweight yet high-strength ABS plastic. This material is weather-resistant and suits regular use outdoors. Additionally, it ensures the lawn sweeper is lightweight enough to maneuver and reach every part of your lawn. The model is small but covers quite a distance when sweeping.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 4222V2 Lawn Sweeper

Ohio Steel has quite a number of lawn sweepers. But, this one, in particular, caught my eye. It is simple yet functional to suit different needs as far as lawn sweeping is concerned. On this note, it comes with an 11-inch spiraled polypropylene brush that sweeps efficiently even at low speeds.

One outstanding feature is the solid tension tube. It holds the collection bag in an open position, which saves you the hassle of installing tension rods. Also, the sweeper has numbered brush height settings on the size, making it easy for you to monitor while adjusting the height.

Pros

Cons

Buyer’s Guide: Choosing the Best Lawn Sweeper

What is a Lawn Sweeper?

Starting in the gardening world and have no idea what a lawn sweeper is? It is a gardening tool, just like a lawnmower designed to sweep and collect debris, leaves, and grass clipping from the lawn’s surface.

When you trim your grass using either a zero turn lawn mower or a simple slasher, the loose grass chipping, together with leaves and twigs from your garden, need to be removed. This is where a lawn sweeper comes to play.

A lawn sweeper features brushes that are connected to a rotating shaft. In a rotating action, the brushes comb through the lawn to collect debris. The debris, leaves, and other materials are then collected in an attached hopper or collection bag; that you can quickly empty after sweeping.

The Different Types of Lawn Sweepers

Lawn sweepers come in various types, and if you are buying one for the first time, the different styles can be confusing. Here are the types available.

Tow-Behind Lawn Sweepers

Tow behind lawn sweepers are the most common ones on the market. They are convenient to use, and you only need to hook to a riding lawn mower, ATV, or a side-to-side. Additionally, this type is designed to suit different needs with the large capacity of the collection bag.

This design makes them suitable for large lawns where you do not have to empty the bag after each stroll. Talking of emptying, some models of tow-behind lawn sweepers come with unique features for easy emptying.

Most models have a lever or handle that you lift to empty the contents of the bag. After emptying, you only need to return the handle to the original position and continue sweeping.

This type of lawn sweeper is excellent for more extensive lawns. However, they might not work well if a section of the yard tends to hold water. In such a case, the sweeper can easily clog with mud, needing a lot of work to clean.

Push Lawn Sweepers

This type is relatively common, but there are not that many models on the market. Push-style sweepers are great for small properties where cleaning is not extensive.

If you have a lawn with few or no trees, a push lawn sweeper would be the best choice. It works well to collect grass clippings and leaves but requires a bit more effort than tow-behind models.

It is important to note that push models do not hold as much material as tow-behind ones. On this note, they require frequent emptying, especially if your lawn is large. Also, they need pushing as the name suggests, which, although a good workout, can be time-consuming.

Power Sweepers

These are designed for large properties where cleaning needs to be completed in a short time. The sweepers come in push style and tow-behind style that you can hook to a tractor. If you have a sizeable hilly lawn, attaching a power sweeper to your lawnmower can be convenient, less stressful, and quick.

Speaking of lawnmowers and hills, here are great lawnmowers for hills, if you have that type of terrain.

Power sweepers are different from the other two types in that they run on gasoline engines. Like the push and tow-behind models, they have brushes that comb the surface of the lawn to sweep. However, the brushes spin faster, which means they clear a small patch of grass thoroughly in a short time.

Factors to Consider when Buying a Sweeping Lawn Sweeper

A lawn sweeper can save you valuable time and clean up your property thoroughly. But, you need to find one that works great for your needs to ensure quality results all through. Regardless of how much money you spend on a model, understanding the features ensures you get the best value for your money. Here are the factors to consider.

Sweeping Path

The sweeping path width varies from one model to another. This number refers to the amount of ground the brushes can cover in one pass. For example, most push-style lawn sweepers have sweeping paths between 21 and 26 inches. This is why they take longer to clean a large lawn as they cover a small distance in one pass.

Tow-behind sweepers, on the other hand, have much wider paths going as wide as 50 inches. This means they take fewer passes and complete the job quicker than push ones. Ultimately, you will not need to empty the bag as often.

Lawn Size

How much space do you intend to sweep? If you have a small lawn with a tiny patch of grass, then a push-style lawn sweeper can work well. If you have an extensive yard, entirely covered in grass, then you might want to consider a tow-behind or a power sweeper. You might have to invest more, but the convenience of cleaning your lawn in less time will not compare to the price.

Capacity of the Hopper

The capacity of the hopper depends on the size of the lawn sweepers. As much as it is different for different models, it is still an essential factor to keep in mind. If you do not want to keep emptying it every few feet, finding a sweeper with a large-capacity hopper will save you the hassle.

Large-capacity hoppers measure up to 25 cubic feet. Keep in mind, though; 25 cubic feet of grass clipping can weigh quite a lot, so you should consider sweepers with a dump feature. This will save your back and arms from the strain of tipping the hopper.

Brush to Wheel Ratio

Lawn sweepers come with cylindrical brushes that sweep clippings, grass, and debris from the lawn into the hopper. The wheels of the sweeper drive the brushes to spin faster than the wheels turn.

This happens through a transmission that multiplies the times the brushes run in relation to the wheels. How is this important to note? The higher the ratio, the more times the brushes will spin per the times the wheels rotate.

Overall Quality

This is a no-brainer but certainly one of the most important factors to keep in mind. Like any other tool, you should consider the quality in terms of materials, features, and overall functionality. You want to get the best value for your money by checking how each element adds to the sweeper’s functionality.

You do not need a top-rated industrial model, but you might need to spend quite a bit for quality that will last. High-end models often withstand regular use and are easy to use in the long run.

When it comes to quality, consider the type of material used. Plastic ones work well, but they might not hold up well if you use the sweeper regularly. Instead, go for those with heavy-duty steel components that can withstand the impact.

Also, like lawnmower blades, a little mishap in the quality of brushes can damage your lawn. Consider the quality and evaluate what other users have to say about the effectiveness of the brushes. Also, I recommend finding lawn sweepers with adjustable height to allow customization while in use.

FAQs

Should I leave grass clippings on the lawn?

Well, this is a question of what your end goal is? Removing grass clippings from the lawn will bring about your lawn’s aesthetic look and keep it tidy. Leaving the clippings on the lawn will give them a chance to decompose and release nutrients back to the soil. The process will take quite some time, so if you do not mind an unkempt lawn for a few days, then this is an option.

Which is better; lawn sweeper or bagger?

The choice between a lawn sweeper and bagger depends on the size and condition of your lawn. If you have a large yard, a sweeper would be the best bet for the job, thanks to the capacity and efficiency.

If the grass is wet, a lawn bagger might not be the best option. Although sweepers also have difficulties on wet grass, they do a much better job than baggers. Baggers are great at cleaning dry leaves, pine needles, and dry grass but not suitable for cones.

Can you use a lawn sweeper while mowing?

Yes. But, this is only possible if you have a tow-behind lawn sweeper and a riding lawnmower. On this note, you can hook the sweeper onto the mower and collect the clippings as you go. For other types of sweepers, you will have to finish clipping first then sweep later.

Will a lawn sweeper pick up apples?

Lawn sweepers are designed to collect loose materials on the surface of the lawn. If it comes across a heavier item such as a branch, stone, or in this case an apple, it will most likely push it forward or tip it backward.

Will a lawn sweeper pick up thatch?

A lawn sweeper can pick up thatch after dethatching. They are designed to pick up any loose material on the surface, hence ideal for sweeping thatch. Some models come with a dethatching kit that pulls thatch while the sweeper collects it.

How long should you let the grass grow before cutting?

Ideally, the grass should attain a minimum height of about 3.5 inches from the ground before cutting it for the first time. This can take anywhere between 8 t0 10 weeks, depending on the conditions. When you are ready to cut, be sure to follow proper cutting techniques to preserve the grass’s quality.

A good idea is to get blade sharpeners for your lawnmower blades and ensure they are in the best state for a clean cut.

How should I maintain a lawn sweeper?

While using the sweeper, ensure you empty the hopper as often as possible. Ideally, you should empty the contents before it fills up to the top to prevent weighing it down. Also, ensure you clean up the hopper after use to avoid mold and mildew buildup.

Before using the sweeper, chop, or mulch, cut the debris in your yard. This will reduce the amount of work it has to do, adding to its quality in the long run. It will also save you much valuable time and will prevent clogging on the brushes.

Summary

It is no doubt that a lawn sweeper is essential for regular lawn maintenance. It not only saves you valuable time but also ensures your lawn is clean and tidy. The options above are a great starting point if you are looking for a lawn sweeper.

My favorite turns out to be the Agri Fab 42-inch Tow Lawn Sweeper. It is sturdy, easy to assemble, and effective. It provides excellent value for money, and although the instructions seem quite inadequate, the design is pretty simple to figure out. Find your favorite, and enjoy the convenience while keeping your lawn in order.

Different grass seeds will act completely differently in different regions, and with different amounts of water and foot traffic.

It pays to get it right!

I’m going to help you get it right first time so that you can be rewarded with a healthy lawn.

Keep reading to learn all about the different types of grass seed and how to choose between them.

How to Choose Grass Seed

Different types of grass seed are suited to different climates and growing conditions. Some grass seed types can handle a drought while others need regular watering. Different grass seed options also vary in their hardiness when it comes to foot traffic.

It’s also not usually best practice to buy just once species of grass seed. Usually, you’ll buy a mix in order to provide a bit of resilience and balance out the pros and cons of different varieties.

It can all sound a bit overwhelming and many people are left wondering – what type of grass seed do I need?

Luckily, if you know the answers to a few basic questions surrounding the temperature, water availability, shade and soil type of your yard, the choice should be fairly straightforward.

 (If you already have a bag of seed that you’d like to use and you’re wondering whether grass seed goes bad, have a read of this article to learn all about the shelf life of grass seed and how to maximize it.)

The table below will sum up the main differences between the most common grass seed options. I’ll go into more detail afterward if you want to know more.

Growing Conditions

The growing conditions that your region and your individual yard will provide for your lawn are the deciding factors in which type of grass seed to choose.

Generally speaking, first you’ll narrow down the choices to either cool season or warm season varieties based on the region you live in. Then you’ll look at how much sun and foot traffic your individual lawn will be exposed to and what your water availability is.

Sun Versus Shade

The number of hours of sun versus shade that your lawn will get is a pretty key factor in deciding what type of grass to go with. Some grasses need a lot of sun while some are happy with being in the shade for most of the day.

Generally speaking, warm-season grasses are less tolerant of shade than cool-season grasses.

Water

Water is a big deal. There isn’t enough of it in many parts of the world so using it on our lawns is not the most responsible choice.

Most of the time, when people are wondering ‘what grass seed should I use for a low maintenance lawn?’, they’re thinking in terms of water usage.

So, if you live in a region prone to droughts or hot, dry summers, choosing grasses that are drought-tolerant, or combining varieties, can ensure you have a green lawn without needing to irrigate.

Temperature

The temperature may be the biggest factor in deciding between cool season and warm-season grasses.

Cool-season grasses typically grow during fall and spring and go dormant in the summer, while warm-season grasses go dormant in winter.

Cool-season grasses typically do better in the northern regions, while warm season grasses do better in the south.

Foot Traffic

Different grasses cope with different amounts of foot traffic and general wear and tear.

But if your lawn is going to be exposed to heavy foot traffic, then you’ll want to choose a grass type that can handle it.

Soil Type

There are a wide range of different soil types depending on pH, texture, nutrient density and proximity to the coast (salt exposure).

Knowing what kind of soil you have and matching it to the type of grass that is suited for that soil is helpful for ensuring the success of your lawn.

You can do a simple at-home soil test to work this out.

Cool Season Grasses

Choosing grass seed might seem overwhelming. But really once you figure out the main criteria for your yard based on the factors above, there won’t be too many options to choose from!

These cool-season grasses are all popular throughout the northern regions of the U.S.

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky Bluegrass is well suited to the temperate summers, cool springs and falls, and cold winters of the Northeast. However, despite its temperate preferences, it likes a lot of sun so is well suited to large parks and playing fields.

It is an attractive deep green color when it is well watered, but goes dormant and loses its color if left without water during a hot summer. For this reason it is well suited to combining with ryegrass which helps with greening things up a little quicker.

Kentucky Bluegrass is also popular with young families or people who know their lawn will get a lot of foot traffic. It is more durable than the fescues and self-mending, so a dead spot will recover by itself without needing re-seeding.

Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial Ryegrass likes similar conditions to Kentucky Bluegrass and does well throughout the Northeast and Midwest. It is an attractive deep green grass with a fine texture that is surprisingly durable, coping well with foot traffic.

It will go dormant during a drought but recover easily in the fall once water comes on the scene again.

Ryegrass is also a popular species to patch repair and overseed an already established lawn that needs some improvement. However, make sure you are using perennial ryegrass and not annual ryegrass, or your repairs will only last one season!

If you’re interested in learning more about overseeding, I have an article all about overseeding weedy lawns that will be helpful.

Read more about Kentucky Bluegrass versus Perennial Ryegrass here.

Tall Fescue

Tall Fescues are a popular choice in the dryer areas of the Pacific Northwest as well as through the transition zone (the central strip of states from Kansas to the Atlantic Coast).

Despite being cool-season grasses, they are relatively heat-tolerant owing to deep roots.

Durable Tall Fescue can be mixed successfully with Kentucky Bluegrass and Perennial Ryegrass for year-round color.

Read more on Fescues versus St Augustine here.

Fine Fescue

Fine Fescues are popular throughout the northern regions, though not as common as the Ryegrasses, Kentucky Bluegrass, and Tall Fescue.

Fine Fescue copes well with shade and cold conditions and like ryegrass, is relatively disease resistant. But it’s not as hard-wearing so won’t cope with as much foot traffic as other varieties.

There are a few different varieties of Fine Fescue grass, including Sheep Fescue, Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, and Hard Fescue.

Warm Season Grasses

If you’re wondering how to choose grass seed for the southern regions of the U.S., one of these warm-season grasses will likely tick the right boxes.

Bermuda

Bermuda grass is the most popular lawn grass in the hot and humid Southeast. It doesn’t mind salt or droughts making it great for coastal locations too.

While Bermuda grass does require some water, it requires a lot less than most species making it still the most commonly used variety in the hot and dry Southwest region as well.

Bermuda grass goes dormant in the winter if temperatures remain below 40˚F for too long, which means it will go a little brown. But, it has a deep root system and will recover easily in the spring and return to its dense, dark green state as soon as a little water is on the scene.

Combining Bermuda grass with Ryegrass can be a good option for year-round color as the cool season Ryegrass will be green while the Bermuda grass is dormant, and then as the Ryegrass dyes off for summer, the Bermuda grass will already be green.

Read up more on Bermuda grass and Bahia grass here.

Bahia Grass and Centipede Grass

Bahia grass and Centipede grass reign in the hot and humid deep south and gulf coast regions. They are quite coarse grasses compared to cool-season varieties.

Bahia grass in particular is very hardy as well, resistant to most pests and disease and copes pretty well with foot traffic.

Centipede grass is very low maintenance. It out-competes weeds and copes well with poor soil quality, not requiring fertilizer or regular mowing.

Read more about Centipede versus Bermuda grass here.

St Augustine

St Augustine likes heat and humidity making it great for the southern regions. It has a reasonable drought tolerance but is not quite as good as Bahia grass or Centipede grass in this respect.

It has quite a coarse texture and grows quickly but doesn’t tolerate too much shade.

Read more about Bahia grass versus St Augustine here.

Zoysia

Zoysia is a warm-season grass but copes well with cooler temperatures and can be popular in a range of regions, particularly in the transition zone.

It is deep-rooted so can cope well with periods of drought and also copes really well with foot traffic despite its finer texture.  Zoysia does go dormant at cooler temperatures but holds on to more of its color than other warm-season grasses and recovers faster, making it a popular choice.

Read more about Centipede Grass versus Zoysia here.

Clover – The Sustainable Alternative

You might be surprised to see this as an option here. Many people think of clover as a weed that they need to eliminate from their lawn. But in times gone by, clover was deliberately included in lawn seed mixes for its evergreen and nitrogen fixing properties.

Including some clover in your lawn reduces the need for fertilization and helps your lawn to stay green year-round.

Clover is hardy, low maintenance, and soft underfoot. Its only real con is that the flowers can attract bees which may be a hazard for small children – but bear in mind our pollinators need all the help they can get so this is only a con if there are small children around. If this is the case, simply mow the lawn to remove the flowers before letting the kids outside.

If you’d like to read more about clover lawns, I have an entire article dedicated to it here.

What about Seed Treatments?

Most grass seed comes pre-coated in bird repellent and anti-fungal treatments. Whether this is entirely necessary is a debate for another day. Ultimately it comes down to personal choice and an understanding of whether your region or the grass variety you have chosen is prone to many fungal diseases.

Some of the wetter parts of the country, particularly in the Pacific Northwest, and Northeast, might be more disease prone.

If you have small children, then going the organic route is always preferable. You may lose a few seeds to the birds, but if you keep the lawn well-watered and set up some bird scarers, you are unlikely to lose enough to make a noticeable difference to the success of your lawn.

Seed versus Turf

As you can see there are a lot of factors that can affect your grass seed choice! By now you might be wondering whether you should just buy some ready-to-roll turf, or maybe even veer away from living grass altogether and get some artificial turf for your yard.

If that’s the case, weigh up the pros and cons of sod versus turf in this article before you make your decision.

There are multiple pros and cons to both seeding a lawn and buying ready-to-roll turf.

A ready-to-roll lawn will give you an instant lush green lawn after the initial labor of laying it out and trimming it to size. Seeding a lawn requires labor over a longer period of time as you will likely have to wait a couple of months for the lawn to really establish itself, and depending on the quality of your soil, you may need to do some aerating first.

Both need a consistent supply of water to establish successfully, but, once established, a seeded lawn will be more durable than a ready-to-roll turf which may take longer for the roots to really grow deep enough to cope with short periods of drought.

If a ready-to-roll turf doesn’t get enough water, whole sections can die, leaving you with an ugly, shriveled lawn. If a seeded lawn doesn’t get enough water, the results will be a lot less dramatic with lower germination rates that can be fairly easily rectified with a little more seed and water.

Lastly, ready-to-roll turf is much more expensive than seed so if you have a large yard, ready-to-roll is not the most cost-effective solution.

Summary

As you can see, there are quite a few factors to consider when it comes to choosing the best types of grass seed for your lawn.

Whether overseeding an already established lawn that needs some help, or freshly seeding a new lawn, choosing the right kind of seed will go a long way towards helping your lawn flourish.

Are you about to sew some grass seed? Which type of grass seed did you choose? Feel free to share your experiences below and let me know how it worked out!