But did you know that it’s actually not great for the health of your garden, it doesn’t actually work that well and there are much better alternatives?

No?

Well, keep reading then! I’m going to introduce you to 11 landscape fabric alternatives that will do a better job at keeping weeds at bay and your garden healthy and happy!

Landscape Fabric Alternatives

You’re here because you’re wondering – what can I use instead of landscape fabric?

Luckily, there are some excellent alternatives:

These alternatives are all really affordable, maybe even free. And, many of them benefit the health of your garden through supporting soil health instead of making it worse like landscape fabric.

What’s not to love?

Let’s look at these options in a little more detail…

Cardboard

Cardboard is probably the best alternative to landscape fabric if you’re looking for something that you would use in the exact same way in your garden beds.

It is usually free and easy to source, it does an excellent job of preventing weeds from popping up from underneath, it allows air and moisture to pass through, and as it breaks down it provides food for worms and contributes to the organic matter of the soil.

To use cardboard as an alternative to landscape fabric, remove all of the inorganic materials that you don’t want polluting your garden (think staples, sticky labels and packing tape), then simply moisten the cardboard with your garden hose to soften it and lay it down in your preferred position, leaving holes for plants as required.

Like landscape fabric, you will want to cover up the cardboard with a layer of mulch of some kind. Aside from looking good, this will help to keep the cardboard in place as well as eventually break down to add further nourishment to your soil.

Newspaper

If you don’t have a good supply of cardboard, a newspaper is the next best thing. (If you have some cardboard but not enough, you can even do a mixture of the two).

Newspaper has all the same benefits of cardboard in terms of soil health and is used in exactly the same way. You’ll need to use around 8-10 sheets to make sure that sunlight doesn’t get through and promote weed growth.

Burlap

Burlap, also known as hessian or jute, is a natural fiber alternative to landscape fabric that functions in the same way but doesn’t harm soil health as landscape fabric does.

The main con to burlap is that it isn’t free like cardboard and newspaper; you’ll need to source it from somewhere. But, it’ll take longer to break down so may provide a slightly longer term solution to weed control.

Pine Needles

Pine needles are an excellent substitute for landscape fabric as they form a dense covering that prevents weed growth but still allows water and air to pass through. They break down relatively slowly meaning they don’t need to be replaced every season, and as they break down, they are feeding the soil.

Pine needles are a little too coarse for your vegetable garden but they are perfect in flower beds and even around larger trees and shrubs.

Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are usually something people have a lot of lying around. But rather than send them to the landfill (please, don’t do this!) grass clippings make the perfect mulch that will suppress weed growth when applied in a thick enough layer.

If you’re looking for more ideas on what to do with excess grass clippings, have a read of this article.

The only time you wouldn’t want to use grass clippings as mulch is if you had recently sprayed your grass with any kind of herbicide or synthetic fertilizer.

While we’re on the topic, I have more great articles that might interest you including the difference between granular and liquid lawn fertilizer, and whether fertilizer goes bad so you can brush up your knowledge!

Wood Chip

Wood chip is one of the best alternatives to landscape fabric because it replaces both the landscape fabric and the ground cover that you would put on top of it.

Wood chips also benefit soil health by retaining moisture and regulating soil temperature while slowly breaking down and adding nutrients. It’s not really suited for vegetable gardens as it takes a while to break down (years rather than a season), but around trees and shrubs, it is an excellent choice.

Bark Mulch

Bark mulch is really similar to wood chip but is made of bark instead of wood. It provides all the same benefits to your garden when used as an alternative to landscape fabric, it just provides a different aesthetic which might be the look you’re going for.

I wouldn’t recommend using bark mulch in your vegetable garden for the same reason as not using wood chip, but it’s an excellent option for almost everywhere else, including pathways between raised garden beds.

Shredded Leaves

A thick enough layer of shredded leaves will provide a barrier against weeds growing up from below while reducing soil compaction, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and helping to retain moisture.

There’s little sense in going out and sourcing leaves to use for this purpose, as some of the other options on this list are probably better and you may already have access to them. But if you have just raked up a whole pile of leaves from your garden and are wondering what to do with them, don’t add them to the landfill! Use them as mulch!

Note that the leaves do need to be shredded though. Simply run your lawnmower over them and then rake them back up into a pile or use a leaf vacuum mulcher.

Aged Compost

Aged compost is the best possible mulch for all areas of your garden when it comes to promoting soil health. A thick enough layer will prevent weeds from growing up from below, but as with some other ground cover options, weeds will eventually settle on top.

You can minimize this by combining two or more forms of ground cover. Some people recommend a layer of newspaper, followed by compost, followed by pea straw or wood chip.

Pea Straw

Pea straw is a really common choice for ground cover in garden beds. It creates a thick mesh of straw that weeds can’t penetrate from below. Once it starts to break down, you can get some determined weeds growing in the straw, but they generally have pretty weak roots and are really easy to pull up and remove simply by lifting up the mat of pea straw.

With pea straw, you also get the benefit of added organic matter once it breaks down. Simply top it up with another layer once per year and you’re good to go.

Ground Cover Plants

Last but definitely not least, ground cover plants are a fantastic substitute for landscape fabric, possibly requiring even less maintenance than the options above.

Organic ground covers will need topping up every year or so but ground cover plants continue to live on, and depending on the species, may require little to no maintenance.

Simply choose a plant that forms a nice dense mat of foliage that will prevent light from reaching the soil. The plant will outcompete weeds for light and space, preventing their growth.

Great options for ground cover plants include lily of the valley, creeping thyme and creeping juniper.

While you’re busy landscaping, do you have any old tree stumps that you need to be free of? Have a read of my guide to the best stump killers.

Disadvantages of Landscape Fabric

After reading all this, you still might be wondering why we would want to find a substitute for landscape fabric.

Let me explain in a little more detail why you don’t want landscape fabric on your garden beds.

It Isn’t Natural

Landscape fabric is a synthetic material made from polypropylene or plastic. Aside from the environmental and human health consequences of manufacturing plastic, over time it will fall apart and contribute to the world’s significant plastic pollution problem.

The breaking down of synthetic materials like landscape fabric is basically just a process of breaking into smaller and smaller pieces that leach chemicals, get eaten by animals, and end up in waterways. There is no decomposition in the way that biodegradable materials would break down.

It Doesn’t Support Soil Health

As a result of not being naturally biodegradable, landscape fabric does nothing to support soil health. It is designed to allow water and air to pass through, but this isn’t enough by itself to support soil health.

Scary stuff, right?

It Doesn’t Actually Work

What? I know, right?

Despite being so widely used, landscape fabric is not a surefire way of doing what it’s designed to do, which is prevent weed growth.

Landscape fabric will effectively prevent weeds from growing up from underneath the fabric  (although it’s arguably no better at doing this than any of the materials above). However, all weeds need to grow is a tiny bit of soil. Soil particles in the air will eventually land and accumulate on top of the landscape fabric and provide a growing medium for windblown seeds.

Consequently, while landscape fabric may appear to be the perfect solution, the benefits are short-lived and the area will still need regular maintenance to remove and control weeds that start to set up shop on top.

When Should I use Landscape Fabric?

In saying all this, there is one instance where landscape fabric is the preferred choice, and that is in pathways or areas where you are choosing to put down a surface material that won’t break down, like gravel or river stones.

If you were to use a biodegradable alternative to landscape fabric like one of the options listed above, eventually the stones would be exposed to the bare soil underneath and form a messy, muddy mix – not a good look for your pathway.

Landscape fabric is the better choice for gravel pathways where soil health is not the priority. But, for the rest of your garden beds, steer clear and choose one of the substitutes for landscape fabric listed above.

Summary

Hopefully, by now you’re brimming with possibilities for landscape fabric alternatives and understand the benefits that natural alternatives will bring for your garden.

Feel free to share with me the material you decided to use and how well it worked! I would love to hear what you’re up to!

You want the ultimate list of the best cheap lawnmowers for 2026?!

Well, we’ve got 19 for you!

It’s up to you to decide which one takes the crown – read on and see if you can pick the number one.

Please note that aside from one obvious exception, I’ve regarded “cheap” mowers as any that are under $400 (at the time of writing this article).

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow.

Beautiful lawns are achievable for all – even if you need to stick to a budget.

TOP 19 Best Budget-Friendly Lawn Mowers for 2026

American Lawn Mower Company Push Reel Lawn Mower

Let’s get chopping with one of the cheapest mowers on the market, a classic reel push mower from the American Lawn Mower Company.

It features four, 14-inch blades and two, 8.5-inch polymer composite wheels. Offering an adjustable cutting height of 0.5″-1.75″ for a clean, scissor-like cut every time, this is a quality alternative to gas or electric-powered mowers.

Ideal for smaller yards, this mower will handle all types of grass, no matter what you’re faced with.

Reward: The cheapest reel mower on the market.

Pros

Cons

Great States 14-Inch 5-Blade Push Reel Lawn Mower

We’ll stay with the manual reel mowers for the time being with this version from the brand Great States.

It offers an extra blade with five sharpened edges for cutting, 8.5-inch wheels, and variable cutting heights between 0.5″-1.75″. It’s a lean, green, oil and gas-free cutting machine, with a T-style handle with cushioned grip for comfortable use.

The blades are made of high-quality, heat-treated alloy to stay sharp for longer and provide excellent performance through the season.

Reward: Technically speaking, it’s a great but cheap “zero turn” mower.

Pros

Cons

If you want the real deal on zero-turn mowers, read our article on the best commercial zero-turn lawn mowers of 2026!

Black+Decker BESTA512CM Electric Lawn Mower

Now, this is a great little device from Black & Decker – a three-in-one electric lawnmower, trimmer, and edger.

It has a 6.5 amp motor and power drive transmission to offer great performance no matter the job. Featuring an automatic feed spool, you can keep working without having to ever stop and adjust the cutting line.

A handy cord retention system prevents disconnection, while variable cutting heights offer you control around your yard. It’s the perfect tool if you have a small plot of green to take care of.

Reward: One of the most versatile gardening tools on the market.

Pros

Cons

American Lawn Mower Company Corded Electric Lawn Mower

Another entry for the American Lawn Mower Company, this time it’s their highly-rated electric, corded mower.

It packs in a powerful 11-amp motor for cutting all types of grass, with a large 14-inch cutting width with five-position easy-change cutting height adjustment from 1″ to 2.5″.

There are options for multiple handle heights so you can adjust it to suit your needs, while the frame itself is lightweight and easy to fold and store.

A two-in-one bag or mulch function is very useful, and a push-button start will get you going in no time.

Reward: Hands down the most popular cheap corded lawnmower out there.

Pros

Cons

GreenWorks 16-Inch Reel Lawn Mower + Grass Catcher

The first of several entries from Greenworks is this classic push reel mower that also comes with a 7-amp blower. A generous 16-inch cutting path gets the job done faster, while the two-in-one feature offers both rear bag collection or mulching.

There are four positions of height adjustment to tackle all grass types, and the 10-inch rear wheels and two-inch front wheels make it super easy to comfortably negotiate your lawn. The leaf blower has an electric start and can reach a strength of 160 mph – perfect for clearing your yard of debris.

For this price, it’s not a bad combo to have in your tool shed.

Reward: A great lawnmower and leaf blower package.

Pros

Cons

Sun Joe MJ401E-PRO Electric Lawn Mower

This 14-inch, 13-amp electric mower from Sun Joe is an inexpensive, no-frills, simple machine that is ideal for inexperienced gardeners. It’s very easy to use but still offers plenty of power to get the job done.

The deck is adjustable to three cutting heights, and it comes complete with a side discharge chute to offer you a choice of mowing options.

It’s not going to turn any heads, but as a basic electric lawnmower with a hard-top collection bag, this is hard to beat.

Reward: Electric lawnmower for beginners.

Pros

Cons

Black+Decker BEMW472ES Electric Mower

Black & Decker have another entry now with this 15-inch electric mower that is designed to be as maneuverable as possible.

Its unique pivoting control handle allows you to swing the machine around obstacles with ease, while the 10 amp power is more than enough to tackle tougher conditions. The winged blade offers 30% better clipping collection, and the rugged wheels are specifically designed to negotiate longer grass.

Six cutting height adjustments between 1-3 inches are available so you get the finish you want across your lawn.

Reward: One of the most maneuverable lawnmowers with its pivot handle design.

Pros

Cons

Snapper HD 48V MAX Electric Cordless Lawnmower

Snapper has a long history in the garden maintenance market, inventing the first self-propelled rotary lawn mower back in 1951. Since then they’ve continued to grow from strength to strength, and this is a quality product at an outstanding value.

Featuring a 48 Volt cordless battery, you’ll get up to 90 minutes of run time on a full charge. The 20-inch steel deck is solidly built, and it offers 3-in-1 mulch, bag, or side-discharge options. The mower can be stored vertically, and it includes intelligent load sensing technology – allowing optimum power levels for maximum efficiency.

Reward: The great cheap push mower for the price and quality.

Pros

Cons

Sun Joe MJ404E-360 Electric Lawn Mower

This unusual looking beast is a unique three-wheeled mower that gives the user excellent maneuverability and control.

It offers a 360-degree turning radius that will allow you to easily skirt round garden obstacles and edges, potentially halving the time it takes you to mow your lawn.

Ideal for anyone who has to negotiate around flower beds, this corded mower has a 16-inch cutting deck and 12-amps of power, perfect for smaller gardens with some tricky areas.

Reward: The cheap lawnmower for garden obstacles.

Pros

Cons

Yard Machines 132cc Push Gas Lawn Mower

I scoured around for the cheapest possible gas mower and I think that this is it. This Yard Machines 20-inch push mower has a 132 CC gas-powered engine, while still being relatively compact and lightweight.

It’s ideal for mowing small to medium yards and has a side discharge chute so you never have to stop mowing until the job is done.

It offers three cutting heights, a sturdy handle, and durable 7-inch wheels front and rear for maximum maneuverability.

Reward: It’s certainly one of the cheapest cheap gas lawnmowers!

Pros

Cons

GreenWorks 20-Inch 12 Amp Corded Electric Lawn Mower

Another Greenworks offering now (it won’t be the last) with this 20-inch 12 amp corded electric lawnmower.

The durable deck is made of steel and it offers 3-in-1 bagging, mulching or side discharge for the grass clippings. The 10-inch rear wheels can tackle even the toughest terrain, while the seven adjustable cutting heights offer you complete control over your mowing.

Foldable handles provide an easy storage solution, in an altogether superb little package for smaller lawns.

Reward: One of the highest-rated corded lawnmowers around.

Pros

Cons

GreenWorks 17-Inch 40V Cordless Lawn Mower

Why have corded when you can have cordless? Well, there are plenty of advantages and disadvantages to both, actually, but for a few bucks more you can have this battery-powered mower which is also in the Greenworks range.

It packs in a 40-volt lithium system, in a lightweight 17-inch cutting deck that has bagging and mulching capabilities. However, there is a slight downside here as this is the tool only – the battery will cost significantly extra.

Still, it’s a highly rated mower that has a lot going for it. Maybe you can get a power source for a bargain elsewhere – as it can power several tools in the same range.

Reward: The best lawnmower option for a multi-use battery pack.

Pros

Cons

Fiskars 362050-1001 StaySharp Max Reel Mower

Now, this might come as a surprise – a manual reel mower that’s more expensive than some cordless or even gas versions. That means there’s something to be said for this Fiskars mower, which is the Rolls Royce of reels.

It’s 60% easier to push than other models, with a useful reversible chute that can direct clippings either forward or backward depending on your preference.

The clever inset wheels allow you to mow across the whole length of the blades, which offer 18-inches of StaySharp cutting system that can tackle all types and lengths of grass.

Reward: Easily the most popular reel mower available today.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman M105 Gas Powered Push Lawn Mower

Now under the umbrella of Black & Decker, Craftsman has been making tools since 1927. This is their 21-inch, 140cc gas-powered engine lawnmower, with recoil and auto-choke.

It offers 3-in-1 capabilities of bagging, mulching, or side discharge of grass clippings, with durable, zag-treaded wheels for tough terrain and long grass.

The bagger is included, and the mower features a dual-lever height adjustment for up to six different cutting heights to suit your needs and the needs of your lawn.

Reward: One of the greatest cheap push gas mowers out there.

Pros

Cons

Lawn-Boy 17732 Self Propelled Lawn Mower

There’s a lot going for this Lawn-Boy lawnmower. For starters it’s a self-propelled model with rear-wheel drive – which makes it ideal for hilly terrain, or if you need a bit of extra help when working in the yard.

It offers a 21-inch cutting deck, with those all-important 3-in-1 grass clipping options. The two-point height adjustment system sets two wheels at the same time, ensuring you can set your cutting height super-fast and not lose time.

Reward: Good and cheap self-propelled lawnmower.

Pros

Cons

Black+Decker CM2043C Cordless Mower

Black & Decker’s cordless mower offering gives you two 40-volt batteries included for twice the run time. That’s pretty impressive considering the price.

The mower itself can bag, mulch or side discharge the clippings, while the EdgeMax design allows you to get right up close to borders with ease.

Ideal for lawns up to a ¼ of an acre, one lever can adjust the cutting height between one to four inches.

Like many battery-powered products, the power source can be used in several other Black & Decker machines.

Reward: The cheap cordless mower – at least at this price.

Pros

Cons

WORX WG751 Power Share 5.0 Ah Lawn Mower

Just when we have one mower including two battery packs we get another – albeit a bit more expensive.

This 20-inch lawnmower from Worx offers 40-volts of power and the 3-in-1 cutting disposal options that all mowers should have. The patented technology provides additional torque on demand and the ability to conserve battery when desired, while a single lever can adjust the height to your desire.

You can share the battery with other Worx products, too.

Reward: The best inexpensive lawnmower that’s both lightweight and powerful.

Pros

Cons

Greenworks PRO Cordless Lawn Mower

Highly rated, powerful, economical, and with a battery and charger included, this Greenworks model is simply the best affordable lawnmower you can buy.

It gives you an hour of run time on one charge, with an 80-volt lithium battery that will get the job done with ease.

The brushless motor provides the tool with longer run-time, more torque, and more power, while the versatile 3-in-1 discharge capabilities allow for rear discharge, mulching, and side discharge options.

You won’t get much better than this for the price.

Reward: Good cordless lawnmower for the power and price ratio.

Pros

Cons

Troy-Bilt Pony 42X Riding Lawn Mower

Now, I know what you’re thinking – this isn’t cheap. And you’re right – it isn’t. But I set myself a challenge to include the best affordable riding lawnmower and I think I’ve done it.

US company Troy-Bilt make some outstanding power tools for lawn care and this is no exception.

With a seven-speed transmission, 42-inch cutting deck with dual blades, mulch, and side discharge options, and a mow-in-reverse setting – this beast is a joy to use for anyone with a larger lawn.

Reward: Good “cheap” riding lawnmower available.

Pros

Cons

As I’ve mentioned previously, if you have a lawn anywhere over 1 acre, I highly recommend going only the ride-on route. If you need any great options, we also have an article specifically on riding lawn mowers!

How to Choose the Right Lawn Mower for The Money

It might not be quite as simple as opting for the product with the lowest price (although that does count for a lot), so here’s some advice on what you should be looking out for before adding a new toy to the cart.

Type of Mower/Power Source

“Cheap” mowers can come in all shapes and sizes. I’ve made it my mission to choose a selection of products from all kinds of jobs, so you can choose the mower that’s right for your circumstances.

So, you need to figure out what they are.

Reel Lawn Mowers

Reel lawn mowers need little maintenance. They’re very easy to set up and use, but they might take a little bit more effort to push than other mowing options.

That being said, they’re great for small patches of land, offer excellent maneuverability and cost nothing to run.

They’re also very environmentally friendly – which is a huge plus point in the age we live in.

Corded Lawn Mowers

These are a step up. They offer constant power supply and are very easy to use. They’re ideal as starter mowers, for small to medium yards where a power source is located close by.

The downsides are fairly obvious – you have to be attached via the cable. This can prove something of a problem for many users, and there is always a risk of injury from running over the mower cable.

They run much quieter than many other mowers, however, and are still very eco-friendly.

Cordless or Battery-Powered Lawn Mowers

Cordless or battery-powered mowers offer you more freedom. They’re ideal if your yard is medium to large, and you’re looking for a decent power to performance ratio.

They’re kinder to the environment than gas-powered mowers, but they can take time to charge. It’s well worth having a backup battery – but they can come almost as expensive as the tool itself.

Another advantage of battery-powered mowers is that with some manufacturers, the actual battery pack can be used in several products in that particular range.

So, if you also had a leaf blower, chainsaw, or trimmer, for example, you can interchange the battery pack and use it in those machines.

Gas-Powered Lawn Mowers

Gas-powered mowers will usually offer the most torque and as such, they are able to tackle tougher conditions over longer jobs.

However, they’re usually much more expensive and require regular maintenance. Along with ride-on mowers. They’re also the least environmentally friendly option out there.

Self-Propelled Lawn Mowers

These mowers can have a variety of power sources and they’re ideal for anyone who needs a bit of extra help with mowing the lawn or just to make the job easier in general.

Ride-On Lawn Mowers

Ride-on lawnmowers aren’t cheap – but as you can see I included one in the review as the “cheapest” I could find in this class.

They’re only suitable if you’re mowing lawns larger than an acre, so don’t even think about it if you have a small yard.

Choosing the right mower for your needs involves many factors.

But to keep it simple – so long as you choose the right size of mower for your yard, how it’s powered can be entirely up to your personal preference.

Lawn Size

I thought I should include a handy little table that will give you an idea of what kind of mower you should choose depending on your lawn size.

Of course, this is just an estimate – it’s down to you if you agree with it or not and are willing to take the advice.

If your land is a ¼ of an acre or less, you choose either a reel lawnmower or a corded electric model.

For land between ¼ of an acre and ½ an acre, go for a cordless or gas-powered mower.

Between ½ and acre and 1 acre, you choose a gas mower, or a more powerful cordless mower to ensure you’re finished without having to charge too often. An 80-volt battery is recommended, and a self-propelled machine highly advisable.

For anything over 1 acre of land, you should be considering a ride-on.

It’s also worth noting that hilly terrain and obstacles will play a part in choosing the right size of mower for your needs – so make sure you consider optimum maneuverability, too.

Remember, that the proper lawn mowing practices can result in healthier grass.

Grass Clippings

One of the most important things you have to consider before buying a new lawnmower – cheap or otherwise – is how does it dispose of the grass clippings.

Or, more to the point – how you want to dispose of the grass clippings.

Generally, you’re going to have one of three options.

Bagging – is where the grass is collected into a bag attached to the mower. It means you get a tidy yard but you might have to regularly stop to empty the load.

Mulching – is when the grass is more finely diced inside the cutting deck before being deposited back onto the lawn in an attempt to improve its overall health.

Side-discharge – is where the grass is ejected from the side of the mower which significantly improves mowing times, but can cause a mess.

For more information on the difference between the types of grass clippings, read this or this article.

They all have their advantages and disadvantages, but when choosing a cheap lawnmower make sure it has the cutting capabilities you need.

Your Physical Condition

The size of the lawn, access to power points, terrain, and time will all come into play when choosing a new cheap lawnmower.

But perhaps one of the most important factors is your own physical condition.

Most people don’t actually enjoy mowing the lawn (unless you’re weird like me who finds it strangely therapeutic) but we humans have come up with ways to make it as easy and as painless as possible.

That being said, it can still be a real effort to do the job – especially if you’re of advancing years, or you have particularly tough terrain to manage.

Choose a suitable lawnmower that you’re going to be able to control safely and comfortably.

Mowers with rear-wheel drive that are self-propelled are good for tackling hills.

Certain mowers are far more maneuverable than others – lookout for features that help you negotiate obstacles.

Price

You get what you pay for these days, and you should always try to get the best you can afford.

But there’s no reason you can’t achieve professional results without breaking the bank – many of these mowers offer excellent bang for the buck.

FAQs

Which Company Makes Good Budget-Friendly Lawn Mowers?

All the mowers included in this article come from quality manufacturers. It would be difficult to pick just one – as many times it comes down to personal preference.

However, based on the items I reviewed and my research, I would say that in this class – it would be hard to topple Greenworks as an excellent lawn care company that offers top-draw affordable lawnmowers.

It also depends on what you are looking for. There are different types of lawn mowers and each comes with its pros and cons in different price categories.

Let me know which lawn mower you think is the best in the comments below.

Will a Cheap Lawn Mower Actually Work?

Yes. You don’t have to spend a fortune to get this simple job done.

Having said that, you should thoroughly check the reviews and make up your own mind about which product you should try.

It’s not unheard of for things to break, or degrade over time. Go for something that is backed by a lot of good reviews and positive comments from genuine users – and you won’t go too far wrong.

How Long Will a Cheap Lawn Mower Last?

That depends on a number of factors.

How much you use it, how well you clean and care for it, and whether or not it is mistreated in any way will all contribute to the life of the lawnmower.

But there’s no reason a good-quality product won’t run for several seasons (at the very least) with the right care and proper use.

If you’re concerned about a lawnmower malfunctioning in it’s prime, make yourself aware of the manufacturer’s warranty and return options.

Are Parts Easy to Source for Cheap Lawn Mowers?

Usually, yes. Especially if you opt for a familiar brand with a household name.

Should you need to replace anything on the mower, simply contact the manufacturer directly and order a replacement.

Either that or your local hardware store should be able to point you in the right direction.

Just because they’re cheaper mowers doesn’t mean they’re not backed up with parts and service options.

Summary

I hope this article and the reviews contained within have helped you choose a budget-friendly lawnmower for the upcoming season.

If I was to choose one myself, I’d go with the Greenworks Pro 80-volt cordless model. It’s a beast of a machine that will do an acre of land in one charge – and probably the best budget-friendly mower you can buy.

Let me know which model you would choose and why.

Happy mowing!

Or maybe even all of it!

Either way, it’s not the most encouraging sight when you look out of your window – but does it mean the grass is dead or merely dormant?

Thankfully, it’s quite easy to tell them apart.

Read on to find out how to properly tell the difference between dormant and dead grass.

There’s no need to panic and do something drastic!

Quick Read

I can sympathize with anyone who has seen something wrong in their garden, and is in a frenzy to find out what’s gone wrong ASAP.

With that in mind, here’s a bite-sized guide to telling the difference between dormant and dead grass:

Of course, there are other tests you can do, which are explained in more detail below.

So, for a more in-depth analysis, including some top tips on how to rejuvenate your lawn in either case, stay tuned and keep reading.

Is My Grass Dead or Dormant?

You might have just returned from a vacation and found your yard a bit on the dry side.

Maybe you’re in the middle of a drought and noticed that your lawn has browned?

Or perhaps the snows have finally melted, and your grass is looking dull and lifeless.

And you’re left wondering, is my grass dormant or dead?

Thankfully, it’s easy to figure that out.

It’s common for cool-season grasses to go dormant for up to six weeks in the heat of summer, and for warm-season grasses to go dormant in colder temperatures.

Which is encouraging to know – as most of the time, there’s no need to panic, as your lawn is most definitely alive – but conserving energy to see it through the stresses of a particular season.

But how can we confirm this?

There are four main approaches we can take to find out if our grass is dead or dormant.

The Tug Test

Perhaps the easiest of the four methods is something you can do right now.

Go out into your yard, and try to lift a clump of grass with your hands.

If the grass comes away easily (including the root, and not just the layer of thatch that might be present), then it’s likely dead and needs to be replaced.

If you’re met with any kind of resistance, and the grass stays fixed in the soil, then it’s dormant, and should be given time to recover.

Patchy or Uniform?

Another way to help determine whether you’re dealing with dormant vs dead grass is to take a look at your lawn as a whole and notice whether the browning is uniform or patchy.

If the whole lawn has slowly turned brown all at once, then it is likely dormant. It’s highly unlikely something has killed off the entire lawn.

On the other hand, if you have patches of brown grass (that can’t be accounted for by factors such as shade or varying water or nutrient availability), then those patches are likely dead.

These brown, inconsistent patches might have been caused by any number of factors, including pests, disease, herbicide misuse, pet urine, and heavy foot traffic/toys/garden furniture.

Keep reading for information on how to treat the area if you suspect that your grass is dead – and how to give it a boost if it’s simply dormant.

But first, here’s a couple more techniques you can use to confirm what condition your lawn is in.

Give it a Drink

The third way to determine whether your lawn is dormant or dead is to try and revive it with a little water and see if it recovers.

This process will take some time, and should only be attempted if your region is not experiencing water shortages.

It’s also a good idea to try it on a small patch first, so you can avoid wasting water on the entire lawn if it isn’t successful.

Give the patch of grass a good deep drink (around an inch) once per week for a couple of weeks and then wait to see whether it greens up.

For more information on how to water your lawn properly, read the article at that link, which covers everything you need to know, step-by-step.

However, if your lawn doesn’t respond to some hydration, there’s a good chance it’s dead, and will need to be reseeded.

Patience

There is, of course, one final way to check if your grass is dead or dormant – and that’s to wait it out.

The lazy-person’s approach is to allow it to recover by itself, without applying any products, or irrigation.

For cool-season grasses, wait until spring or fall to see if the grass recovers from the chill of winter or the heat of summer.

But if you have a warm-season lawn, and it is brown in the middle of summer, then this approach won’t work.

Warm-season grasses naturally go dormant in the cooler months, rather than in drought conditions. So, if it’s brown in the summer, then there’s a good chance it’s dead.

But now we’re getting into more complicated territory, so let’s look at the difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses in a bit more detail, and why grass goes dormant in the first place.

Why Does Grass Go Dormant?

Grass goes dormant when it is under stress and needs to conserve water and nutrients.

The water and nutrients will be conserved in the crown of the grass (the round, pale part of the stem near the soil surface) and the roots.

Since the green blade of the grass is not needed for survival when grass is in a dormant state, it can brown and die off, even when the crown and roots are still alive.

Things get more complicated when you take into account the difference between warm and cool-season grasses and their respective dormant seasons.

Cool Season Grasses Usually Go Dormant in Summer

Cool-season grasses are actively growing during spring and fall, and provided conditions aren’t freezing or under perma-snow, they will grow slowly in winter too.

Cool-season grasses get stressed by higher temperatures and droughts. They can survive 2-3 weeks without rain in hot temperatures before they will start to go dormant. After this, how long they can survive in a dormant state depends on the type of grass and how healthy and deep its root system is.

A healthy lawn with minimal weeds and a deep root system can happily go 6 weeks, maybe even a couple of months in a dormant state.

A less healthy lawn may struggle to go a month before starting to die.

Warm Season Grasses Usually Go Dormant in Winter

Just to keep things interesting, warm-season grasses are pretty much the opposite!

Warm-season grasses cope well with long, hot, dry spells, but go dormant when temperatures drop below 65 degrees Fahrenheit.

They will generally recover when the weather warms up again in the spring, but ‘winter kill’ is definitely a thing.

This happens when the winter is a little too harsh for even dormancy to pull your lawn through. You may end up with dead patches that take longer to recover in the spring.

So, regardless of whether your grass is dead or dormant – what can you do about it?

Let’s take a look.

What to do if Your Grass is Dormant

Ok, so you’ve gone through the steps above, and you’re pretty sure your grass is dormant.

What happens now?

If you have cool-season grass, and it has gone dormant in the summer because of an extended dry period, there are things you can do to help it.

The first thing to remember is not to fertilize dormant grass. (This goes for warm-season grass too.)

While it may seem like giving your lawn a feed when it is struggling is the right thing to do, what you’re actually doing is stressing it further.

Fertilizer encourages blade growth, often at the expense of roots. Grass that is dormant is deliberately suppressing leaf growth in order to prioritize the survival of the roots.

If you try to coax grass into growing more blades when it doesn’t have the energy, it’s going to get pretty stressed.

Imagine how upset you’d be if someone tried to force-feed you when you were tired and sleeping!

Instead, wait until it’s in full growth again before you add fertilizer, and be sure you’re using the right type of product for your lawn. (Learn more about fertilizer types here.)

Other things you can do include:

If you have warm-season grass, the tactics for caring for it while it is dormant are a little different.

With warm-season grass, you’re aiming to limit the stress that comes from cold temperatures rather than lack of water.

Warm-season grasses also benefit from limited foot traffic and a higher mowing height during their dormant season. However, less is more when it comes to watering, as too much water can promote fungal diseases.

Preparing your warm-season grass for winter includes aerating, dethatching, applying a thin top dressing of sand, and leaving the grass clippings on the lawn after mowing. All these things will help it to survive winter and flourish when spring comes.

Take a look at this article on preparing your lawn for winter.

If all this seems overwhelming, having a lawn care calendar can be a helpful way of reminding you what tasks you need to complete at certain times of year to help keep your lawn in top shape.

If aerating is on the agenda, read my guide to the different types of aerators before choosing which kind to go with. It also pays to brush up on the different types of lawnmowers to make sure you’re set up with the type most suited to your lawn.

What to do if Your Grass is Dead

Again, you’ve done the tests above, only this time you’ve discovered the worst-case scenario, and your grass is dead.

Is there anything you can do?

The bad news is that once grass is dead, there’s no bringing it back. Like most living things, really – that’s how the universe works.

But the good news is that you can start again, and bring your lawn back to the healthy patch of green it once was.

The first step you need to take is to figure out what killed it (so you can avoid a similar situation in the future).

There are many different scenarios that can result in dead grass. For example:

I’ll admit, that’s not a short list, but it should be fairly easy, through a process of elimination, to work out what is causing your lawn to suffer.

That is something only you can do, however, so consider each point individually to rule it out.

Case-in-point. I have a lovely, thriving lawn in my backyard, but to my horror I discovered a large patch of dead (or dying) grass during a recent mow.

The cause?

A newly built tree swing that was preventing sunlight and nutrients from getting to the surface.

But once this has been put away for winter, I can take steps to revitalize the grass/plant new seed, and then make sure that section gets what it needs next year.

So, how do I go about doing that?

Planting New Grass

Once you’ve established the culprit of your dying lawn and remedied the situation so that it won’t continue, you have a few options for repair:

Patch Repair

Patch repair is as it sounds. If you’re looking for a quick fix and minimal work, simply rake over the patch that is dead, sprinkle a little topsoil, and some grass seed and water well.

Don’t fertilize too soon – allow the new seeds to germinate before you give them something else to contend with.

A more thorough option is to dig up and remove the entire dead patch, roots and all, and to replace with fresh sod – but we’ll explore this in more detail, below.

Overseeding

Overseeding is a good way to revive a weedy or patchy lawn that could benefit from thickening up.

It doesn’t take a huge amount of work. Simply cut your lawn very short, water well, and sprinkle a fine layer of seed evenly over the whole lawn.

It definitely helps to mix the seed with a fine layer of topsoil or potting mix too, but this isn’t essential.

Check out this guide for tips on how to make your lawn thicker, greener, and fuller.

Reseeding

Reseeding is a little more dramatic and is only necessary if your lawn is genuinely past the point of return.

It involves removing all the dead turf, replacing the topsoil and then applying a fine layer of grass seed over the whole area.

Reseeding is also a good way of making sure that you are growing the right grass type for your region and climate, so that you can avoid issues with extended dormancy and stress that might result in lawn death in the future.

Learn more about the different types of grass seed and the conditions they are suited to in this article before you make your decision.

Whichever approach you decide to take to revive your lawn, you’ll need the right tools for the job. Check out my guide to lawn care tools before you get started.

Laying Sod/Grass Plugs

Finally, if all else fails, you want a total revamp, and/or you’re at the end of your tether – you can always try ripping it all up and starting again.

Laying new sod all but guarantees the lawn of your dreams, but it will take a lot of effort, and it can be very expensive.

Grass plugs are another option to rejuvenate dead areas.

Check out this article on the pros and cons of laying sod vs overseeding vs grass plugs for more information.

FAQs

Will watering dormant grass bring it back?

Yes. In fact, watering a lawn is a good way to tell if it’s dead or dormant. Dormant grass will turn green, and should revitalize, whereas dead grass will not.

What does grass look like when it goes dormant?

To some people, dormant grass might look like it’s dead or dying. It loses its lush green color, turns a shade of brown or tan, and looks lifeless.

If that’s what you’re seeing on your lawn – take the steps listed above to make sure it’s definitely dormant, and then you’ll know what course of action to take – if you need to take any at all.

Is grass dead or dormant in winter?

Trust in nature – it’s perfectly normal for grass to turn brown and go dormant through the winter. It’s simply protecting itself from the harsh conditions, and doing what it needs to in order to survive.

Of course, in the case of particularly harsh winters, your grass might actually be dead – and you can use the methods above to figure that out come springtime.

Be heartened, though, it’s made of sturdy stuff, and will typically survive on its own without any help at all.

How long does it take for dormant grass to go green?

It should take some time between two and four weeks for your grass to come back to its former glory.

Should you mow dormant grass?

No – there’s absolutely no need to mow dormant grass, as it isn’t growing, and nobody on your street is going to complain that those irresponsible people at number 43 have let their yard grow wild again…

Can brown grass come back?

That depends on if it’s dead or not. Most times, like when the grass has reached its dormancy, it will bounce back when it comes through the harsher seasons.

But if it’s dead, there’s nothing you can do to breathe life into it again, and you need to follow the steps above to start a patch anew, or a fresh lawn entirely.

Summary

Figuring out the difference between dormant grass vs dead grass in your lawn is actually easier than you might have thought.

I hope you found this article useful and feel confident that you’ll be able to identify and treat whatever problem your lawn might face in the future.

Please feel free to share this guide with anyone who might also find it helpful, and as always, feel free to leave your thoughts below.

But how do you tell them apart? At a glance, they can appear quite similar.

This article will show you how to tell them apart and explain some pointers on how to control them.

Key Differences Between Dallisgrass and Crabgrass

While some grass species are easy to tell apart, dallisgrass and crabgrass have enough similarities that unless you’ve got them side by side, it could be hard to tell what you’re looking at.

They both have broad leaves and grow in clumps, forming patches of coarse grass that stand out against your finer lawn species.

Luckily, there are some key differences between dallisgrass vs. crabgrass that will make identification easy once you know what to look for.

These are:

Let’s look at these differences in a bit more detail…

Dallisgrass vs Crabgrass

Dallisgrass and crabgrass both have the potential to be very invasive in your yard. But, how successful they are depends on the health of your lawn.

They are opportunistic and like bare patches of soil, so if you don’t have any bare patches, they are unlikely to become a serious problem. Regardless, many homeowners would still prefer not to have these unsightly clumps growing in their lawn.

When it comes to identification, the most distinctive difference between dallisgrass and crabgrass is in the seed head.

Dallisgrass seed heads are much thicker and grow out of the sides of the stem as well as the top, with little black protrusions.

Crabgrass seed heads on the other hand are much finer and usually just grow out of the top of the stem (see images below).

Another key difference is in their root structure. To tell them apart this way will require a little digging (excuse my pun).

Dallisgrass grows from a deep rhizomatous root system which is also how it spreads, while crabgrass roots are shallow and leaving some in the ground when you pull out a clump probably won’t result in a new plant.

So, how can you tell them apart if you haven’t dug them up or let them go to seed?

They have a slight difference in color and growth formation.

While they both grow in clumps, crabgrass forms clumps that are more distinctive with the stems branching out from the center in a star-like formation, or like the legs of a crab which is how it got its name.

Dallisgrass grows taller than crabgrass, while crabgrass typically grows along the ground below the height of a typical lawnmower (annoying, right?).

Finally, there is a slight difference in color. Dallisgrass has a slightly more blue tinge to its green while crabgrass is slightly more yellow.

Another easy way to tell apart dallisgrass versus crabgrass will depend on the time of year.

As crabgrass is an annual, it will die off in the winter and leave dead patches in your lawn, returning in the spring from the seed stock that it left behind at the end of the previous summer. Dallisgrass on the other hand is perennial and can grow all year round.

Not sure whether you have crabgrass or Bermuda grass? It’s not that hard if you know what to look for.

Or is it quackgrass you could be dealing with? We have an article explaining the differences between quackgrass and crabgrass so you’ll be sure you know what you’re dealing with.

How to Control Dallisgrass (Paspalum dilatatum)

Like any weed, the best method of control is to prevent it from establishing itself in your lawn in the first place. Once you have a thriving mat of dallisgrass, it will be very hard to get rid of!

Preventing the success of opportunist dallisgrass starts with keeping your lawn healthy and thick so you leave no room for invasive species to put down roots. Avoiding simple lawn care mistakes, mowing, watering, re-seeding bare spots and fertilizing appropriately, will give your lawn its best shot at fending off invaders.

Alternatively, you can use glyphosate to spot treat your lawn, but as glyphosate will also kill your lawn species, you need to be really careful to avoid spraying anything else except the dallisgrass. Due to the strength of the rhizomes underground, one application is unlikely to be enough and you may need to repeat the process.

As with any pesticide, glyphosate should only be used as a last resort and sparingly due the negative impacts it has on the surrounding environment and soil health.

Once the dallisgrass has died and left a bare spot, you need to spread more grass seed there and avoid leaving it bare or it’ll likely become the home of another invasive weed.

Dallisgrass can also be managed by mowing your lawn with a catcher to remove any seed heads before they get a chance to spread. Many people underestimate the power of lawn mowing in maintaining a healthy lawn and controlling weeds. If you’re interested in learning more about lawn mowing, check out our tips here.

You can also use the same pre-emergent pesticides that are used for crabgrass seeds to kill any dallisgrass seed that might be in your lawn, but keeping your lawn short to prevent the growth of seed heads is the first choice.

New to lawn care? Have a read of our guide to lawn care tools before you get started.

And don’t forget to take care of the lawn once the grass starts to grow. Take a look at the different types of lawn mowers to find the one that fits your needs the most.

How to Control Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis)

Assuming you’ve already done your best to maintain a healthy lawn and reduce the risk of crabgrass making itself at home, what can you do to remove it once it has arrived?

The management of crabgrass is actually pretty similar to dallisgrass, but easier in some ways. Crabgrass is really easy to dig out because it has shallow roots, and you don’t have to worry too much if you leave some behind – they’re not rhizomes so they can’t grow new plants.

The hard part about crabgrass is all the seeds they leave behind. So, regardless of which approach you choose to take, it’s going to be a multi-season mission.

You can dig up the plants that you can see, but then there could be many seeds still in the soil that could stay dormant for a number of years and pop up when you least expect it.

The easiest way to take care of all the seeds is to use a pre-emergent herbicide to make them non-viable at the beginning of spring. Unfortunately, this will mean that all seeds, including seeds you want, will be rendered useless. So in order to complete the job, you’ll need to sprinkle the lawn with fresh grass seed afterward to keep your lawn as dense and healthy as possible.

There are also certain lawn management practices you can use that will be less favorable to crabgrass.

These include:

It is actually possible to fight crabgrass without the use of pesticides if you learn how to manage crabgrass naturally.

Summary

Hopefully, you feel confident in identifying crabgrass and dallisgrass now. They are similar, but once you’re aware of their differences, you’ll have no trouble telling them apart. If in doubt, have a little dig and check out the roots!

Remember that the most effective control is preventing them from establishing themselves in the first place. Keep a close eye on your lawn, spot weed small patches of both dallisgrass and crabgrass if it arrives, and keep your lawn healthy and dense to limit the possibility of more invasions.

Have you had either of these grasses on your lawn? How did you get rid of them? Did it work?

There are all sorts of methods you can use, but the humble lawn roller has been a go-to choice for decades.

And it can also be used for pressing new grass seed into the soil, installing fresh turf, and creating attractive stripes after mowing.

So, read on to discover the best lawn rollers currently on the market, with a buyer’s guide and FAQ section to follow.

Ready? Let’s let the good times roll…

The 7 Best Lawn Rollers for 2026

Agri-Fab Poly Tow Lawn Roller

First up we have this popular 36-inch poly tow-behind lawn roller from Agri-Fab. It’s also available in a 48-inch width, which is ideal if you have a larger area to cover.

The poly roller drum is internally reinforced, and weighs 50 lbs without water, ensuring it’s manageable when it comes to relocating to where it’s needed. When full, it will reach a maximum weight of 400 lbs, with the 48-inch version able to achieve 550 lbs in weight.

An integrated scroller bar prevents soil build-up and clogging, while a central baffler offers additional stability when towing, and metal bars are powder-coated for corrosion resistance. The convenient drain plug fills easily from any normal garden hose.

Pros

Cons

Brinly-Hardy Combination Push/Tow Poly Lawn Roller

Homedepot.com

Brinly-Hardy have been manufacturing quality lawn-care tools and equipment since 1839, and so of course their range extends to some of the best lawn rollers on the market.

The 8×24-inch poly roller is an excellent example, highly versatile in the fact that it converts between a push and a tow roller to suit your needs. The drum offers a 28-gallon capacity, which can hold sand or water up to a weight of 270 lbs.

The poly drum is durable enough so that it won’t rust or dent, while the rounded ends ensure you won’t accidentally damage your lawn – especially on the turns.

It can easily attach to one of these awesome riding lawnmowers – or any tractor or ATV with the universal hitch pin, and there’s even a video guide to help you with assembly.

Pros

Cons

Goplus Tow Behind Water Filled Lawn Roller

Although this lawn roller from Goplus claims to be a push and tow product – do bear in mind that it’s referring to manual pushing and towing only.

Still, it offers a little versatility depending on how you want to work, and it can be useful for getting in and out of tricky corners.

A 24-inch and 36-inch options are available, and the durable steel cylinder has been finished with an anti-rust coating to encourage long life and prevent corrosion. The 36-inch version offers a maximum weight of 165 lbs filled with water and 240 lbs filled with sand, while the smaller option gives you 105 lbs and 180 lbs with water and sand respectively.

I would suggest sand is a better option in this particular drum if you’re using it for leveling, but it’s certainly a good all-rounder for most lawn roller needs.

Pros

Cons

Vingli Water Filled Pull Behind Lawn Roller

This Vingli lawn roller is one of the more budget-friendly offerings on the market, which is ideal if you want to try this method of lawn care without breaking the bank.

Available in a choice of sizes, the largest of which is 36-inches, it’s a manageable little unit that’s ideal for smaller areas – or spot treatment in larger gardens.

Capable of holding up to 16 gallons of water or sand with the removable drain plug, you’re looking at around 140-200 lbs of weight depending on your choice of filler.

The steel drum is sturdy and durable, with rounded edges to protect your lawn on turns, and the comfortable U-shaped handle makes it easy to push or pull the drum around your yard.

Pros

Cons

Winado Iron Lawn Roller

Homedepot.com

Here we have an iron lawn roller that’s finished in an attractive green coating, giving it an old-school vintage lawn-care vibe. And it’s not just for aesthetics, as it’s designed to prevent corrosion and rust in order to improve the longevity of the roller.

The large, U-shaped handle allows it to be pushed or pulled, and the drum is capable of taking up to 17 gallons of water – which by my calculation is roughly 141.78 lbs – not including the weight of the drum itself.

However, the manufacturer claims it only takes 120 lbs – so perhaps you can let me know which is right.

The rounded edges help to keep lawn damage to a minimum, while the drain plug can be filled and emptied easily – making the drum storage-friendly when out of season.

Pros

Cons

Tacklife Lawn Roller

A well-designed and sturdy roller from Tacklife, this steel drum roller is backed by a high-quality, durable frame that has been powder-coated to protect it from rust and corrosion.

It provides a 20-inch rolling width, making it ideal for smaller yards and gardens, and it is particularly adept as a lawn-striping tool.

It will take 16 gallons of water that allows it to provide 155lbs of weight, which is more than enough for pressing new seed and sod into the ground – but might struggle when it comes to larger lumps and bumps.

Weighing just 25 lbs without water, it’s easy to move and store, and the well-designed, U-shaped handle ensures you can push or pull the tool with minimum fuss. It’s also capable of holding up to 230 lbs if you fill it with sand.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel Steel Lawn Roller

Homedepot.com

Now we’re talking. This giant 60-inch lawn roller has been made from professional-grade steel and is one for seriously beat-up lawns only.

Capable of a whopping 1150 lbs in weight, you’d better make sure it’s not going to do more harm than good. Designed for commercial use, lawn-care professionals, or anyone with a lawn disaster on their hands, if this behemoth can’t flatten molehills, anthills, or any other lumps and bumps – then you might well give it up altogether.

Able to hold up to 117 gallons of water, you might be filling it up for a while, but it certainly offers the most weight out of any drum in this review.

Rounded edges offer those all-important easy turns, while the black, powder-coated finish will keep this tool looking and performing as it should for years to come. And well it needs to – considering how much it costs.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Roller for Your Lawn

Below, you’ll find a handy guide on all the things you should be looking out for when choosing the best lawn roller for your needs.

Why Use a Lawn Roller?

There always seems to be some confusion with most homeowners when it comes to what a lawn roller is actually used for.

So, let’s clear it up right now.

A lawn roller has four main purposes in life:

First, it’s used in an attempt to flatten a bumpy or uneven lawn – which may have occurred after the freeze/thaw cycle of the winter, or as a result of unwanted critters and creatures digging holes and hills.

It’s also useful for pressing new seeds into the ground and away from the attentions of hungry birds or the elements.

Rolling freshly broadcast grass seed can keep it protected and help it to germinate, much more successfully than simply leaving it on the surface to be blown away or eaten.

Lawn rolling is highly recommended after you’ve laid fresh sod, and the roller weight can press the new material down and help it take root in its unfamiliar surroundings.

Finally – and arguably the most successful lawn roller use – is that it can be used to create attractive stripes on your lawn.

Lawn rolling kits are also available – but we haven’t covered such products in this article, given the fact that they’re rather limited in what they can do.

If you want to know more about how to make your lawn striped and look like a stunning striped baseball field, we have you covered.

And you should check out this article for a more detailed look at the benefits of lawn rolling – including some of the downsides, as well as tips and tricks on how to do it successfully.

Roller Size and Weight

Does size matter? It certainly does when it comes to lawn rollers.

When we’re talking about size, we’re referring to the width of the roller and not the overall bulk of the product. And the wider the roller, the faster you can get the job done in fewer passes across your lawn.

So, it stands to reason that if you have a large area to cover, you need a wider roller to tackle it.

When it comes to how heavy the roller is, “what’s the best weight for a lawn roller?” is a common question.

Professionals estimate that somewhere between 300-400 lbs are a good ball-park figure, with around 300 lbs being suitable for most residential homeowners.

Experts advise against anything much heavier than that (usually reserved for commercial purposes), as you can risk seriously damaging your turf if you’re not careful.

Of course, the maximum weight of a roller is only going to be achieved once you’ve filled the tool with water – and the more gallons it can hold – the heavier it’s going to be.

Be aware that filling a larger roller can take a fair bit of time and use a lot of water – so have a plan for what to do with it when you’re done.

However, sand might be a better option, as the roller will be heavier and likely more successful in flattening uneven terrain.

The trade-off is sand can be notoriously difficult to remove from the drum – should you need to for whatever reason – which might make storing and/or transporting the tool a bit of a headache.

Materials

Polyethylene (or other plastics), steel, and iron are common lawn roller materials, each with its advantages and disadvantages.

You’ll find poly rollers to be cheaper and more lightweight (without water) – which can be a bonus when you’re trying to transport them.

Plastic products are also resistant to rust, which means you don’t need to freak when you’ve left them outside all night in the rain.

However, metal rollers tend to be heavier when it comes to actually perform the job they’re supposed to do. And even though they’re prone to rust and corrosion – they will last longer – particularly those that have been powder-coated.

Push or Tow?

Lawn rollers are available in two distinct types.

Push rollers are designed to be used by hand, and you manually push them across your lawn – similar to the way you would use a lawnmower (only requiring much more effort).

Tow lawn rollers are designed to be used with a lawn tractor – like some of these awesome beasts from Husqvarna, John Deere, and Cub Cadet.

(They can also be used with a zero-turn lawnmower – and you can follow that link if you need a machine that can spin on a dime.)

So, which do you choose? Thankfully, it’s not rocket science.

For smaller yards and gardens – choose a push roller, and if you have a larger area to cover (and you have the vehicle to pull it) choose a tow version.

You can also get lawn rollers that convert between the two, which is a great option if you have a big lawn but with harder-to-reach areas that a tractor won’t be able to access.

Extra Features

There’s not a lot of bells and whistles that come with a lawn roller – it’s a fairly simple concept, really, like when we invented the wheel.

You certainly don’t need LED lighting, laser guides, safety locks, or other such technology. Although if someone could invent a self-propelling roller that would be nice.

But if there’s one extra feature you should be looking out for – it’s the inclusion of a scraper bar.

This is commonly positioned above the roller drum itself and is designed to prevent the wheel from getting bogged up with soil and other yard debris.

Make sure your roller has this small but vital feature, and you should have smooth rolling all day long.

Cost

Most lawn rollers aren’t going to break the bank, however, there is one major factor you need to consider before parting with your hard-earned cash.

How much use are you actually going to get out of it?

It seems that anyone who purchases their own lawn roller (as opposed to hiring one) does so because they’re going to get plenty of mileage out of it.

So, just make sure it’s not going to be collecting dust and taking up space in your shed, and spend your budget accordingly.

And always make sure to choose the right tool for the job – like when deciding which type of lawnmower is right for your yard.

FAQs

Do lawn rollers really work?

Yes and no. Some people might experience the benefits, others not so much. It just depends on what you need it for and/or how bad your problem is.

For seeding, lawn striping, and turf installation – a lawn roller can be very effective if used correctly.

But for flattening a bumpy lawn after a long winter – the jury is out on how useful it actually is – especially if your lawn is like a whack-a-mole game.

And don’t even think about trying it on clay soil.

Do I need a lawn roller?

No. Considering you will use a lawn roller less than once a year, or only when you’re putting down new grass seed, you don’t actually need one.

However, if you’re one of those homeowners who desires beautiful stripes like a sports pitch – then a lawn roller is the best way to achieve this.

And if you have regular unwanted visitors under and on your turf, then keeping a roller on hand might not be such a bad idea to get rid of their creations.

Either way, consider how much you’d use it and how useful it will be overtime before making a purchase.

What is a lawn roller used for?

A lawn roller has four main uses:

If you’re someone who needs to do any of those things with regularity, then picking up a quality lawn roller should be on your to-do list.

What’s the best lawn roller?

Everyone’s needs are different, so there’s no right answer to this question. The best lawn roller for me might not be the best for you.

That’s why I’ve included a good selection in the review above – any one of which could easily take the crown. Let me know in the comments which model you think is the best and why.

Will a roller flatten my lawn?

Possibly. It depends on the condition of your lawn. If it’s particularly bad, you’re welcome to try lawn rolling – but just don’t expect miracles. There are other methods at your disposal, however.

Try watching the video below for some more information, tips, and tricks for leveling a bumpy lawn.

Summary

If you’re going to attempt to level a lawn with a roller, then at least try it with one of the best lawn rollers on the market.

I’m keen to know how you get on, so drop me a line in the comments with your lawn rolling experience, if you’ve been successful or not, and which product you’ve gone with to try it.

I wish you the best of luck – and happy rolling!

This is particularly true when it comes to laying down fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides over sizable acreage.

You’re certainly not going to get very far with a manual spray bottle while on foot.

You need something a bit more industrial, and that’s where tow-behind sprayers come in.

Essential for the upkeep of large lawns, vegetable patches, crops, and more – along with your garden vehicle of choice they will help you get the job done.

Read on for our review of the best tow-behind sprayers on the market, with a buyer’s guide to follow.

What is a Tow Behind Sprayer?

We’ve already covered the best tow-behind spreaders for your lawn and garden, which are used to distribute dry, granular products and seeds around your property.

Essentially, tow-behind sprayers are the same – but for liquids.

When you need to use liquid fertilizers and feeds to cover large areas, a tow-behind sprayer is the perfect choice.

It can also be used for controlling weeds and pests, by using liquid herbicides and pesticides.

In the winter, sprayers can be used to dispense de-icer over large areas to help keep you moving and avoid the big freeze.

And of course, you can simply fill it with water to give thirsty lawns and plants some much-needed hydration through a hot summer.

The unit comes on a trailer and hitches to the back of a lawn vehicle, such as one of these awesome riding mowers for rough terrain.

And the best models come with a spray wand and hose, so you can spot treat areas around your property without the need to carry heavy backpacks or tank bottles by hand.

Tow Behind Sprayers – What to Look Out For

Before diving into the reviews and our more detailed buyer’s guide below, let’s take a brief look at the things you should be considering when you’re in the market for a tow-behind sprayer.

First – do you need one? Tow-behind sprayers are best suited for covering areas over half an acre. If you already have a utility vehicle, lawn tractor or similar machine – it’s likely you could benefit from a pull sprayer, too.

Do you need a spot or broadcast sprayer? Choose a broadcast option if you need to cover a large area, and a spot sprayer if you need to accurately treat specific areas. Good tow-behind sprayers will offer both.

Next, you should decide on the capacity. How much product is it capable of holding and is that going to be efficient for the size of area it needs to cover?

Consider the spray boom, wands, hose length, and nozzles. What is going to meet your needs?

The hitch hardware and tires are important – make sure everything is compatible with your vehicle, and capable of tackling your terrain.

Finally, consider your budget – as these units are surprisingly expensive. Make sure your purchase matches how much you’re going to use it.

The 8 Best Tow Behind Sprayers for 2026

Ironton Tow-Behind Trailer Broadcast and Spot Sprayer

Considering this is classed as a budget-friendly tow-behind sprayer, Ironton have made a quality piece of equipment here that is more than capable of getting the job done.

It offers a 13-gallon capacity, with a pump that is capable of spraying one gallon per minute, with a 12 Volt DC motor. Designed with chemical-resistant components for long life and performance, you can enjoy both broadcast and spot spraying functions to cover lawns, fence lines, and tree tops, with a 40-inch spray width.

The oversized opening makes it easy to fill, while the drain filter makes it easy to empty. And the rugged tank is UV resistant, so it’s not going to suffer sun damage when out there all day long.

Pros

Cons

Chapin Mixes On Exit Tow Behind Sprayer

Homedepot.com

Here’s an ingenious solution if – like many gardeners – you’re concerned with mixing chemicals and water, contaminating tanks, and/or spraying the wrong thing in the wrong place.

Mixes on Exit is Chapin’s clever spray system – which does exactly that, keeping water and chemical concentrate separate, saving on waste, and preventing cross-contamination.

You can even purchase additional tanks, so you only ever have to keep one concentrate in one tank and switch them out when required. Capable of a two gallon concentrate and 25 gallon water capacity, it offers a 2.2 GPM rate, with a switchable boom and spot spray function.

A drain cap allows an easy empty, while in tank filters prevent clogging, and it’s towable on most yard vehicles.

Pros

Cons

NorthStar ATV Broadcast and Spot Sprayer

Not necessarily a “tow-behind” sprayer, this Northstar product is for use with an ATV or similar utility vehicle. It offers a 26-gallon capacity, with a 12 Volt motor capable of 2.2 GPM flow, with an “on-demand” pump that generates an impressive 70 PSI.

The motor itself is oversized and consistent, with no downtime necessary for cooling. Valves are manufactured from a chemical-resistant material called Viton, so you can be sure of long life operating at peak performance, while the santoprene diaphragm is also highly durable and effective.

And the deluxe trigger spray gun and pressure gauge allow you to fine tune whatever you’re dispensing for sweeping coverage or accurate spot treatment.

Pros

Cons

Precision Products TCS25 Spot Sprayer

If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly spraying option, then this ATV tank is worth your consideration. With a 25-gallon capacity, this spot sprayer has a 12 Volt motor and pump that offers 60 PSI and 1.8 gallons per minute.

Also available in a more compact 15-gallon version, it comes with a 12-inch spray wand with thumb control, which helps prevent fatigue compared to some trigger sprayers.

A drain plug is built into the tank for easy clean up, and the heavy-duty poly tank and sprayer comes fully assembled – so you’ll be setup and working in no time.

Compatible with any cart or tractor with a 12 Volt battery, this offers accurate, isolated distribution of water, fertilizer, herbicides, and pesticides.

Pros

Cons

Brinly-Hardy Tow-Behind Self-Storing Lawn Sprayer

Homedepot.com

Brinly-Hardy began manufacturing lawn care equipment over 180 years ago, so you would expect them to get a few things right by now.

And they certainly do with this 15-gallon tow-behind lawn spreader, which features extendable booms with dual nozzles for a versatile spray pattern and a swath of up to 70-inches. Never-flat 10-inch tires can tackle most terrain, while the included spray wand comes with a 12-foot hose for those hard-to-reach areas.

It’s also a self-storing unit, designed to make the most out of limited space, and doesn’t take up much room when not in use.

The high performance 40 PSI pump offers one gallon per minute distribution, so you can get the job done faster, and there’s a dual filtration system for longevity.

Pros

Cons

John Deere LP19479 Tow Behind Sprayer

From one iconic brand to another, this 25 gallon, tow-behind sprayer comes from one of the top names in agriculture, farming, and forestry equipment. John Deere introduce this unit that’s particularly suitable for covering residential and small commercial properties.

A 60-inch folding spray boom offers a generous 90-inch spray swath – which is one of the widest coverages of any tow behind sprayer in its class. Three spray nozzles are included for adjustable patterns, and the 19-foot-long hose with wand allows you to cover trees, shrubs, and bushes with ease.

Streams of up to 30 feet are achievable, while the heavy-duty tires and low profile ensures it’s super-stable when traversing uneven terrain.

Pros

Cons

Workhorse Trailer Sprayer for Lawn Tractors

Homedepot.com

If you need to cover an acre of land and above, then you’re going to need a commercial-sized tow-behind sprayer to handle it. This Workhorse trailer option carries a huge 60 gallons of product, and can be towed behind any yard vehicle.

It has a spray coverage of 140-inches, and can achieve an impressive five gallons per minute distribution with its 12 Volt motor. The boom has seven nozzles and can be folded for storage or to negotiate obstacles, and the spray wand has a pistol grip for comfort and comes with a 25-foot hose for those hard-to-reach areas.

Built like a tank, this is a seriously heavy-duty piece of equipment for heavy-duty landscaping maintenance.

Pros

Cons

NorthStar Tow-Behind Trailer Boom Sprayer

Just to give you another behemoth option, we finish the review with this 61-gallon tow-behind sprayer from Northstar. As one of the most reputable companies for sprayers, you would expect them to have a commercial-grade product in their locker.

The heavy-duty tank has extra thick walls and is both chemical and UV resistant, so it should operate at peak performance for many seasons to come. With a maximum 60 PSI and a 5.5 GPM, it’s one of the most powerful sprayers in the review, and capable of an 11.7 foot broadcast pattern.

The wand can eject product up to 22 feet vertically and 33 feet horizontally, and the inner diaphragm and valves have been fully treated to withstand just about any chemical you care to put in it. Within reason, of course.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Pull Behind Sprayers – A Buyer’s Guide

There are plenty of bells and whistles on pull-behind sprayers that you should understand before adding to cart.

Let’s explore what you should be looking out for.

Type of Sprayer

I’ve included tow-behind and vehicle mounted sprayers in this review, and the type you choose depends on your own circumstances, and the kind of machine you’ll be using.

If, for example, you have something like one of these awesome commercial zero-turn mowers (and you should check them out at that link) then a tow-behind sprayer with compatible hardware would be best.

For ATVs and smaller utility vehicles, you can use a tow-behind option, but you can also consider a vehicle-mounted sprayer for your loadout.

Vehicle-mounted sprayers have the advantage of not requiring an extra set of wheels or tow frame, but they typically don’t hold as much product as the larger, more heavy-duty tow-behind models.

Additionally, you should consider if you need a broadcast or a spot sprayer – or a two-in-one option.

Broadcast sprayers are for covering larger areas with product – which is ideal for blanketing lawns or crops with whatever liquid is required.

Spot sprayers target specific plants and areas, and are essential if you need to treat a problem while keeping the chemicals away from desirable vegetation.

Capacity

The size of your spray tank is important when it comes to how much ground you’re able to cover – without the need to refill.

Obviously, the larger the tank, the more you can get done in one sitting.

One gallon of liquid will cover about 1000 square feet, so it would take 44 gallons of product to cover one acre without a refill.

Of course, this depends on how fast you’re traveling, and the pressure and spray capabilities of the device you’re using.

Figuring all this out can be a bit of a headache (especially if – like me – you’re not very good at math).

But you can use this extremely helpful resource from the US Department of Agriculture for the calibrations, calculations, and conversions for all your spraying needs.

Booms and Wands

Booms are the bars that broadcast product from the back of your vehicle. The longer the boom, the wider the swath of product and the more ground you’ll cover with each pass.

Look for booms that have adjustable nozzles, so you can not only cover a lot of ground, but tailor the spray pattern to suit.

Wands are devices that you use to spot treat areas for targeted product distribution. They’re designed for use in areas you need to be highly accurate – such as around flower beds or vegetable patches.

You can purchase tow-behind and vehicle mounted spreaders with booms, with wands, and with both features.

I would suggest choosing a sprayer with the versatility of both, as even if you don’t need one or the other – at least you have the option.

Hose Length and Nozzles

Good sprayers will come with a selection of nozzles, or you can purchase add-ons aftermarket if you need something that will offer a different spray pattern.

At the very least, look for a nozzle that offers a dual spray of mist and jet, but the following nozzle types are also available.

Fan tips are for general spraying flat areas, such as along pavements and walkways.

Mist nozzles use air to spray a fine mist from the wand, which is ideal for controlled distribution over a medium-sized area.

Jet stream shoots an accurate liquid jet and is more suitable for when you’re cleaning up, or if you need to hit something that’s out of reach.

And speaking of clean up, try these lawn sweepers for keeping your yard nice and tidy.

Don’t forget about wand and hose length. The longer the hose, the further your reach, and longer wands are good for reaching into nooks and crannies if need be.

Choose long hoses and wands if you have areas that are a challenge to get to, such as when you’re climbing a ladder to dispense product at height.

Pumps and Pressure

Tow-behind sprayers come with on-board pumps that you hook up to a battery. The higher the PSI, the more powerful the sprayer will be in distributing liquid product.

Some sprayers will come with a pressure gauge, which is handy for keeping tabs on how the sprayer is operating, and if you need to fine tune it to suit your needs.

Sprayers that have a lower pressure will not be as accurate as high pressure models. A dip in pressure will mean a reduced spray power.

A diaphragm might also be present inside the tank sprayer itself, which is used to pressurize the container and eject the product.

Pumps and diaphragms should have some kind of protective coating that prevents chemical wear and tear.

Tires and Hitch Hardware

If you’re using a tow-behind sprayer rather than a vehicle-mounted option, you should make sure that the tires are suitable for your terrain.

Look for no-flat versions that don’t require air if you’re concerned about maintenance and upkeep. Tires with good tread are preferable if you have hilly terrain to negotiate.

While most sprayers will come with universal hitch hardware, it’s always worth checking to see if it’s compatible with your machine.

Tow-behind sprayers are suitable for lawn tractors, ATVs, UTVs, and even zero-turns, so you should check out this article on the best budget-friendly zero-turn mowers for a pleasant surprise.

Cost

Quality tow-behind sprayers are surprisingly expensive – which just goes to show that there’s more to these products than simply a plastic tank and a spray wand.

Sprayers with 60 gallon tanks and above are particularly pricey, which matches their commercial-grade capabilities and hardware.

Always buy the best you can afford, and make sure you choose the right size tow-behind sprayer for your particular needs.

There’s no point having an expensive 60 gallon unit if you’re not going to use it, or if you only have a small yard to cover.

FAQ

Who makes the best tow-behind sprayer?

There are plenty of reputable brands out there manufacturing quality tow-behind sprayers – and it’s difficult to choose the best one.

Remember, what might be good for me might not work for you.

Just about all the brands in this review could lay claim to making the best product, but I would say John Deere, Brinly-Hanly,

Northern Star, and Workhorse are all vying for the top spot.

And that Mixes-on-Exit sprayer from Chapin would also be a worthy winner. I think that would be my personal choice if I had the land.

How many gallons does it take to spray one acre?

If we go with the tried and trusted equation that one gallon will cover 1000 square feet, then you will need 44 gallons to cover an acre.

Check out this video below for tips and advice on how best to calibrate a tow-behind sprayer, and ensure you’re not wasting any product or coming up short.

What type of vehicle do I need for a tow-behind sprayer?

You can pretty much use any yard vehicle with a tow-behind spreader, providing it has the right hitch hardware – which they should all come with.

Lawn tractors, ATVs, UTVS, and zero-turn mowers can all pull tow-behind sprayers, while some machines can carry the tank on the back of the vehicle.

Look for products that have a universal hitch pin or attachment if you’re in any doubt, or the relevant hardware to secure a spray tank onboard.

And while you’re at it, check out this article on the different types of lawnmower you can use for your property – you might find you’re using the wrong one, and could easily upgrade to a new, versatile vehicle.

What is the best tow-behind spreader?

If you’re looking for a unit that distributes dry product, then you’re in the wrong place.

Thankfully, you can find the best tow-behind spreaders at that link, so head on over there if that’s what you’re in the market for.

How do you clean a tow-behind sprayer?

Good question. It’s very important that you thoroughly clean your spray tanks after use – unless you’re intending to store one product in it until it’s been used.

The video below focuses on handheld and backpack sprayers, but the same information can easily be applied to tow-behind tanks as well.

Do I need to wear PPE when using a tow-behind spreader?

Whenever you’re handling dangerous chemicals and liquids, it’s important you pay attention to safety.

While it’s not necessary to deck yourself out in a Hazmat suit for tow-behind spraying, I would suggest you at least wear a pair of suitable gloves, long-sleeved shirts and pants, and close-toed shoes.

Eye protection is also a good idea – especially when filling the tank and using open chemical containers. Even the slightest accidental splash might cause some serious damage.

Follow all instructions to the letter, and remember to keep pets and children indoors until safe to be let back out into the yard.

Summary

Maintaining a large garden is certainly not without its challenges, but with the right tools and equipment, you can create a beautiful outdoor space for everyone to enjoy.

Let me know which of the best tow-behind sprayers you’ve decided to try, or feel free to spread your own general gardening wisdom and experience with the community in the comments below.

Happy spraying!

The cold temperatures can do a number on both us and our lawns if we’re not appropriately prepared.

Are you wondering how to winterize your lawn? Or even what winterizing your lawn is?

You’re in the right place.

I’m going to explain what winterizing grass involves, when and why to do it.

Key Takeaways

Winterizing your lawn helps it to survive the winter so that it is healthy and ready to grow when spring comes.

The main lawn winterizing tasks include fertilizing, aerating, clearing fall leaves and mowing nice and short.

What is Winterizing?

Winterizing is a phrase used to describe tasks you might do in your yard in the fall to prepare your lawn and garden for winter.

Carrying out winterizing tasks helps to ensure that your lawn and garden are in the best shape to survive winter and be ready to thrive as soon as spring arrives.

Common winterizing tasks include:

Why Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

Winterizing the lawn and garden is a good idea for multiple reasons.

But what it boils down to is that taking a few steps to keep your garden (and equipment) healthy during the winter will mean that it can thrive come spring.

You don’t necessarily have to do everything on this list. For example, you may decide the fertilizing isn’t really necessary (if you already gave your lawn a good feed at the start of the growing season then that is likely the case).

When Should You Winterize Your Lawn?

When do you winterize your lawn? This depends on which winterizing tasks you’re carrying out, as they’ll vary in timing a bit.

Generally speaking, the most common winterizing tasks are carried out through fall in preparation for winter.

You ideally want to have all of your planned winterizing tasks completed by the time winter arrives.

Start thinking about what you’re going to do at the beginning of fall to give yourself a good amount of time.

How to Winterize: 10 Tasks

Fertilize

One of the more common winterizing tasks that people think of is fertilizing.

Fertilizer for winter generally includes higher levels of potassium in order to promote root health. It is also slow release to provide nutrients slowly over the course of the whole winter.

However, it pays to remember that only plants that are actively growing through winter, such as cool season grasses, should be fertilized. If you have warm season grasses, fertilizing while they are dormant will do more harm than good.

If your lawn is healthy and has already been fertilized in early fall, it likely won’t need another feed before winter, as even cool season grasses slow down their growth during the coldest months.

Are you up with the difference between granular and liquid fertilizer? Have you been wondering whether fertilizer goes bad? Be sure to check out my other handy guides if you have any more questions.

Aerate

Aerating is probably the most important winterizing job you can do for your lawn.

Aerating during the fall will help your lawn to survive winter without getting bogged down by all the rain, allowing for adequate movement of water, oxygen and nutrients.

Read about how to aerate in this guide and about the different types of lawn aerators.

Dethatching at the same time is also a good idea if its needed.

Overseed and Patch Repair

For cool season grasses, fall is a great time to overseed your lawn and carry out patch repairs on any dead or dying patches.

Overseeding can help to thicken up your lawn, reducing the space available for weeds to get comfortable. Overseeding in fall means that by the time spring arrives, your lawn should be lush and healthy.

First up, make sure you’re choosing the right type of grass seed for the job. Annual rye grass is a great option for keeping your lawn green through the winter if you live somewhere that doesn’t get snow and usually have warm season grasses that will go dormant.

Weed

Even though weeds don’t tend to grow much during winter, you still want to hand pull any of the really big, problematic ones before they release their seeds and create more problems for the future.

You’ll be reducing your spring work load a lot by weeding in the fall, and continuing to stay on top of any that might appear during winter too.

While hand pulling is always the best option, if you decide to use herbicides, be sure to use the right kind.

Put Away Irrigation Systems

Unless you live in a hot, dry climate, you likely won’t be irrigating during the winter.

Emptying and putting away your irrigation systems can help prevent damage from weather and freezing temperatures.

Adjust Mowing Height

Thinking about how you mow your lawn in the fall will definitely help to keep it healthy through the winter.

However, the last mow that you do before winter sets in should actually be much shorter, especially if you’re expecting snow to hang around for a while on your lawn. Cutting really short will help protect from winter diseases and rot.

If you’re going to be in the market for a new mower, I have a range of articles with different mowers to recommend, including commercial zero turn mowers.

Remove Fall Leaves

While fall leaves make amazing mulch once they’re shredded up, un-shredded leaves can stick together and form a mat that can suffocate your lawn (this is true of moss lawns too).

Top tip – run over them with your lawn mower catcher on and then use the shredded leaves and grass clippings on your garden beds!

Mulch/Sew Cover Crops

Mulching or sewing cover crops are great ways of keeping your garden beds happy for the winter. Mulching helps to regulate temperature and moisture levels while cover crops prevent weed growth.

Cover crops, known as green manure, or green crop, are actually designed to be tilled into the ground at the end of the season as a way of naturally fertilizing the ground.

Prepare Mower for Storage

If you live somewhere where your lawn will be under snow, or its cold enough that you’re going to be experiencing little to no grass growth, your mower is going to be out of action for a little while.

Key things to remember are to empty out the fuel tank (including the fuel lines), give the whole thing a clean, add some lube, an oil change, and possibly a filter change too.

If you have a battery powered lawnmower, make sure the battery is fully charged before storing it for winter.

You ideally want to store your lawn mower under cover in a garden shed or garage. But, if you don’t have space you use a custom made cover or simply wrap a durable, waterproof tarp over the mower with bungee cords.

Fall is also  great time to give your mower a once over and check for any repairs or maintenance work that might need to be carried out.

If you’re not sure where to start, have a read of this checklist.

Mark Out Pathways before Snow Arrives

Once your yard is covered in snow, you may not remember exactly where your lawn is, where the garden beds are and where your pathways are. This could cause you to be inadvertently walking across the lawn or garden beds, or worse, shoveling into them, causing damage.

Mapping out where your paths are with stakes and string makes clearing pathways easy and saves your grass from turning into a slushy mess of mud and melted snow.

Summary

All clear on how to winterize lawn?

It might seem like a lot of work, but the benefits of winterizing lawn work in the fall definitely pay off in the spring.

If you only choose one winterizing lawn task, choose aerating.

Do you agree? I’d love to know what you do to winterize the lawn in your yard. Please share your experience in the comments below!

Most homeowners do nothing more than cut the grass when it gets too high, but for others, it’s a dedicated mission to achieve a beautiful patch of green space to be proud of.

And it’s just as challenging as it is rewarding.

Of the many steps required, choosing between all the types of lawn fertilizers can be a daunting prospect.

In this article, we help to sort through all the fertilizer products available, so you know exactly what to use on your lawn.

Plus, there’s some extra advice on how and when to apply it, as well as plenty of general tips and tricks for boosting lawn health.

What Type of Fertilizer to Use? Too Long, Didn’t Read

Let’s get right to the point – for anyone who doesn’t have time to skim through the whole article.

Lawn fertilizers aren’t as confusing as you might think, and can be divided into the following general types:

Then, they can be subdivided into these types:

They might also be described as :

Finally, they can include a pre- / post-emergent weed killer as part of a weed and feed-type product, or they can be a dedicated lawn fertilizer on their own.

That’s it, in a nutshell, but there’s a lot more to it than that – including an explanation of the nutrients contained within each fertilizer, when to use it, how much to put down, and the dangers of overuse.

And, of course, how to choose the right one in the first place!

For all this and more, stay with us, and read on!

Do You Need Lawn Fertilizer?

It’s a great question – surely your lawn grass can grow on its own, so why do you need fertilizer in the first place?

Technically, you don’t. You can just let nature do its thing, and you’ll have an average patch of grass in your yard that does its job of looking like an average patch of grass.

But if you want to wow your guests and the BBQ, then you need to take action.

Last year, when overseeding, I applied fertilizer on my front lawn, and nothing on the lawn at the back – as a simple experiment.

My rear lawn was its regular, old, average self, and my front lawn was thick, carpet-like, and a vibrant shade of green.

And it’s not hard to see why.

While the soil provides some nutrients that growing grass requires – it’s not able to provide everything a lawn needs to really be the best it can be.

This is especially true during the growing season, and/or when you’re planting new seed.

New grass in particular needs as much help as possible to germinate, and grow into a lush, healthy lawn, as it takes a lot of energy to do so.

That’s where the right choice of lawn fertilizer comes in. You don’t need it, but boy is it going to make a visibly noticeable difference.

And that’s not to mention the benefits a lawn fertilizer can give you for keeping pests, weeds, and disease away.

Types of Fertilizer for Grass

When shopping for lawn fertilizer, you might be overwhelmed at the sheer number of products vying for your cold hard cash, and it can be intimidating if you’re totally new to lawn care.

How to know what fertilizer to use on your lawn?

We can start by breaking down the different types, which we can do like this:

Lawn fertilizer is available in either granular or liquid form. Below, you’ll find a more detailed explanation of the two and how they are applied.

From there, a fertilizer will either be an organic or synthetic product.

Organic Fertilizers

As the name suggests, is an all-natural fertilizer that is designed to break down in the soil and release nutrients to aid plant health and growth. Follow this link for some top organic gardening tips.

It usually consists of things like seaweed, blood meal, manure, fish bones and scales, and compost. They can help boost micronutrients in the soil, although they do have a lower “NPK” rating.

Keep reading for a full explanation of the NPK numbers.

It’s a good idea if you have access to a compost bin, and you can follow that link to find some excellent tumblers. You’re literally throwing money away if you’re not composting!

Synthetic Fertilizers

Synthetic fertilizers are man-made products designed to give your garden the best possible chance at health. They’re water-soluble, fast-acting, and used when you need to see more rapid results.

These fertilizers contain inorganic compounds and by-products, such as ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, and potassium sulfate.

A plant actually needs a total of 17 nutrients to thrive – not just the “NPK” that are more prominent in synthetic fertilizers.

This article on synthetic vs organic fertilizers has more information, but both certainly have their place when it comes to lawn care.

In general, however, I would choose a synthetic fertilizer for fast results, and an organic option for a long-term, slow-release feed and sustenance.

NPK Numbers Explained

You might have noticed a set of three numbers somewhere on the lawn fertilizer packaging, with (or often without) the abbreviation NPK.

Here we come to the dreaded sciency-bit. But fear not, for we here to bust the jargon, as checking a fertilizer’s nutrient content is an important part in the selection process.

For example, if the packaging or specifications read 10-20-10, then you have a fertilizer with 10% nitrogen, 20% phosphate, and 10% potassium.

The rest of the fertilizer will be made up of filler (which is why these numbers don’t add up to 100%).

Simple, right?

Of these, nitrogen is the most important, essential to the development and health of plants (and just about anything that lives). It helps build proteins and DNA in living organisms.

Plants that are starved of nitrogen will be visibly affected, and show signs of stunted growth, yellow/brown leaves, and appear to be withered and dry.

It could be one of the reasons your grass is discolored, and this article on fixing yellow grass might be able to help.

Phosphorus is considered second only to nitrogen when it comes to plant health, and it helps to promote photosynthesis – the plant’s ability to use sunlight to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water.

This, in turn, affects how a plant stores and uses energy. Without it, a plant will be weak, brittle, and show signs of discoloration – similar to blue/purple/red bruising.

Fruit, seeds, and flowers will also be deficient.

Finally, potassium is important in the general movement of nutrients, water, and carbohydrates through the organism.

It helps the plant to grow, resist drought, combat pests and disease, and provide a healthy yield of fruits and vegetables where relevant.

In a lawn, potash (as it’s often known) encourages deep roots and healthy green stems.

A potassium-deficient plant will show curled, yellow leaves, roots will not be strong and extensive, and yields will be low and of poor quality. The plant will be more vulnerable to pests and disease.

So, now you know what each mineral element does, how do you know how much of each your grass actually needs?

Different regions have different lawns. And different lawns require different amounts of nutrients – depending on what is and what isn’t already present in your soil.

To keep things simple, here’s a rough guide to choosing the right balance of lawn fertilizer nutrients:

For a damaged or stressed lawn – look for a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen and potassium, which can help give the grass the boost it needs to get stronger.

For a healthy existing lawn – a nitrogen-rich lawn fertilizer is the way to go, easing off on the P and K numbers.

For starting a new lawn – this is where phosphorus and potassiumnitrogen come into their own, in order to establish a strong root system. Keep the nitrogenpotassium to a minimum until the new life has had a chance to settle in.

And this article on when to fertilize new grass for the best possible results should help you if you’re taking the first steps in your quest for a backyard putting green.

However, if you’re genuinely serious about choosing the right type of fertilizer for your lawn, you can’t rely on a general, catch-all guide.

You might be able to ask a neighbor, do some research on the internet, or even make an educated guess.

But a dedicated soil test is the only way to be 100% sure.

Soil Testing and Grass Type

Oh, how we wish we’d paid more attention in biology class! But before you start freaking about conducting science experiments in your backyard, let us put your minds at ease.

Soil testing is as easy as purchasing a soil testing kit, and following the simple instructions – depending on the type of kit you’ve selected.

When the results are in – which can be in minutes or a few days – depending on the type of test you use – you will have a better understanding of what your soil already has, and what it lacks.

You can then choose an appropriate fertilizer that can redress any imbalance. Furthermore, if you also intend on growing fruit or vegetables in your garden, then a soil test is essential to use in your plots.

As well as testing the soil, you should also pay attention to the type of grass you have in your yard – and identify if you have warm or cool-season grasses.

Warm-season grasses, such as St Augustine, Bermuda, and centipede, will need more treatment than cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and rye.

How and When Lawn Fertilizers Are Applied

Liquid fertilizers are dispensed by either using a tank or backpack sprayer, or, more commonly for large areas, hooking a spray bottle up to a garden hose. Try using a hose cart with wheels to make things easier.

Granular fertilizers will be distributed using a walk-behind broadcast spreader – or by hand. Just make sure for both practices you’re wearing a pair of good-quality gardening gloves.

Alternatively, if you have the means (and the lawn size) a granular fertilizer is best dispensed from one of these awesome tow-behind spreaders.

Granular fertilizers are more suitable for greater control over your lawn-care schedule, as they offer residual time-release formulas that prevent nutrients from washing away.

For a more detailed article on the liquid vs granular fertilizer debate, follow that link.

But when should lawn fertilizer be applied?

When it comes to lawns, it depends on the type of grass you have, and where you are on your current lawn care schedule.

The fall and spring are the best times, when the grass is growing, and you’ve already cut it a few times. This article on lawn care after winter, and this one on fall lawn care will tell you more.

Go here for more general information on how often you need to fertilize your garden, and this article offers a complete, month-by-month guide to lawn care.

But before we move on, here’s a pro-tip – when it comes to choosing season-specific lawn fertilizer – give them all a miss and save money.

Simply choose one, good-quality fertilizer that’s right for your type of soil and grass, and use it throughout each fertilizing season.

Remember, the vast majority of these “sensational” new lawn-care products are just clever marketing ploys. You don’t need a “fall” fertilizer, any more than you need a “spring” one.

However, I would choose a starter fertilizer if you’re specifically trying to establish new grass.

Over Fertilizing a Lawn

With all these nutrients packed into a lawn fertilizer, can’t you just dump bag after bag on your lawn for the best grass in the universe?

Unfortunately, no. When it comes to this type of product, you can have too much of a good thing.

Excess lawn fertilizer can “burn,” your grass. That’s to say, it won’t set it alight, but it will seriously raise the nitrogen and salt levels, which will turn your grass yellow and/or brown, eventually killing it off completely.

As such, it’s important you stick to the distribution guide of the particular fertilizer you’re using, and you resist the temptation to apply too much “feed” in the hope that more is going to mean more.

Soil Amendments

Soil amendments are not strictly classed as fertilizers, as they are designed to improve the quality of the soil itself, and not directly boost nutrient levels to the plant.

Otherwise known as soil conditioners, they help with the physical properties of the soil, and improve its overall fertility for plant life to grow.

This includes improved water and nutrient retention, permeability (which makes it easy to break down), and drainage.

Weed and Feed Fertilizers – Yes or No?

Finally, we should take a look at one of the most popular types of lawn fertilizer on the market – the hybrid weed and feeds, often manufactured by familiar household names.

These products are designed to stimulate grass growth and lay down either a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide at the same time. It is an extremely convenient two-birds-one-stone option.

But are they actually any good?

Yes and no is the short answer.

Some gardeners swear by them, as they’re supposed to save time and money.

Check out this article on if fertilizer actually kills weeds, or if you need to find another method with a better chance of success.

Alternatively, if you do have a weed problem, you might like to try to tackle weeds in your lawn without the use of chemicals, and you can follow that link for tips on how to do so.

FAQs

Does fertilizer go bad?

It’s a great question. You’ve spent a small fortune on lawn fertilizers, and for one reason or another, you’ve got a stack of it left. Can you use it again next season?

This article on fertilizer shelf life will tell you everything you need to know.

What tools do I need for lawn care?

Glad you asked! Aside from lawn-care products like fertilizers, if you’re going to strive for a beautiful lawn, you need to have a well-stocked tool shed.

This article offers an essential lawn-care tool guide for all the gear and equipment you need – as well as the stuff you don’t. Head on over to find out if you’re missing something crucial.

What is the best fertilizer for lawns?

If you’re still having a bit of trouble making the choice, watch the in-depth video below:

Summary

Now you understand the different types of lawn fertilizers, you should be in a better position to choose the one that is right for your garden.

Let us know in the comments which option you’ve gone for, or if you have any lawn fertilizing stories and experiences you’d like to share with other lawn-loving green thumbs.

Stay safe out there, and we wish you the very best of luck with your lawn!

Yet, in spite of trying just about everything, that perfect, healthy, lush-green turf still seems to be elusive.

There’s a good chance that aeration has been overlooked – which is basically poking holes in your lawn’s soil to allow water, oxygen, and nutrients to circulate.

We’ve already covered how often you should aerate your lawn – so check out that link for more detailed information about the process.

But what kind of tool do you use for the task when there are different lawn aerators to choose from? Well, look no further, as we explore the best lawn aerators on the market in 2026.

Keep reading for a buyer’s guide and FAQ section to answer any further quandaries or queries you might have.

Because aerating could be the difference between a good lawn and a great one.

TOP 9 Best Lawn Aerators in 2026

Ohuhu Lawn Aerator Shoes

Let’s get started with a pair of these lawn aerator shoes which seem to have flooded the market in recent years. This version from Ohuhu is one of the best versions, thanks to a new design that makes them super-easy to wear and start aerating in no time at all.

The one-size-fits-all sandals have hook and loop Velcro straps that are easy to wrap and secure around your existing footwear, with an anti-slip surface to ensure that the device stays in place while in use.

The two-inch spikes are tough and durable, and at this price point, it’s an option you should really consider for small to moderate-sized lawns. Aside from this, they’re actually a lot of fun to use.

Pros

Cons

True Temper 4-Tine Spading Digging Fork

Many gardeners opt for simply using a digging fork to aerate their lawns, so I’ve included this highly-rated model from True Temper. It features a forged spading forkhead with four, diamond pointed steel tines for maximum durability and soil penetration.

There’s a 30-inch hardwood shaft, at the top of which you’ll find a poly D-grip that offers the best leverage, comfort and control. Designed for digging, turning, and aerating even the toughest soil, this is a quality garden fork that contains True Temper’s 212 years of garden tool know-how.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab 45-0365 16-Inch Push Spike Aerator

Here we have the first of our push/walk-behind aerators, which is of the spiked variety (walk behind core aerators are few and far between – if they exist at all).

This model is 16-inches wide, with five rotating wheels that each feature seven-inch spikes for up to 2.5-inches of aeration depth. There’s a steel tray that holds a concrete block should you wish to weigh the tool down and achieve maximum depth as you wheel across your lawn.

Ideal for smaller lawns or hard to reach places in larger gardens, this heavy-duty aerator can take up to 35 lbs of additional weight to pressure the galvanized steel spikes deep into the ground.

Pros

Cons

Goplus 18-inch Rolling Lawn Aerator

Following up is another rotary push aerator – also of the spiked variety. This is a roller-style tool with a single handle that is made from durable steel.

The diameter is six inches, while the length of the handle runs to 50 – which has been specially designed to make the task easier and take less time. The shaft is wrapped with a rubberized grip for comfort and control, and it will work in any type of soil conditions with three rows of multiple steel spikes puncturing holes in your lawn.

There’s no need to use any extra weight, and it’s very easy to assemble right out of the box.

Pros

Cons

Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator

This best-selling core aerator tool from Yard Butler is perfect for smaller sized lawns. In fact, it should never really be attempted on anything bigger than that – unless you want to give yourself a heart attack.

Joking aside, I’ve used this device, and it works a treat – but very hard work it is, and you’ll feel like you’ve had a session at the gym afterwards.

Made from stainless steel with cushioned handle grips, it’s simple to use, and drives into the turf much easier than a garden fork, pulling out little plugs of soil in the process.

It’s possible to get a nice rhythm going, but you’ll need to make sure your soil is damp/wet otherwise you might constantly clog up the tines. Hard graft aside, this is highly recommended by yours truly.

Pros

Cons

LawnStar Liquid Soil Aerator

Now for something completely different. To give you an alternative option, I’ve included this liquid lawn aerator which sure beats hard labor. Applied by using a tank or hose sprayer, this compound loosens the soil and increases water uptake and drainage, as well as conditioning the soil as it seeps in.

Ideal for people with larger gardens, it can treat up to 120,000 square feet of land – which will certainly save you from a lot of backbreaking work. And as it’s environmentally friendly, you’ve no need to worry about children, plants or pets with the non-toxic formula. Easily the best alternative lawn aeration method on the market today.

Pros

Cons

Step ‘N Tilt Core Lawn Aerator

This is possibly the best walk-behind core aerator on the market (perhaps because it’s one of the few – given the nature of the task). It works using a move and step system, with four, clog-resistant tines with sharpened edges lifting soil plugs out of the earth. They have been case-hardened for extra durability, and are designed to be used by an operator between 4”-6.5” tall, and weighing no more than 150 lbs. The unit can also double as a garden trolley for shifting heavy loads, and it’s ideal for use in smaller yards or in areas that are hard to reach by a motorized machine.

Pros

Cons

VonHaus Electric Lawn Dethatcher Scarifier and Aerator

Now we come to our one and only electric aerator, which is actually a two-in-one machine that also dethatches – so you’re getting more bang for your buck here. The aerator is of the spiked variety, and you simply switch out the drums depending on what you need to use the unit for.

Powered with a 12.5 Amp motor, it offers a 15-inch working width that is suitable for small to mid-sized lawns. There are five adjustable heights, with a 45-liter collection box to collect any surface material when you dethatch.

As dethatching is often part of the aeration and overseeding process, this is the best electric lawn aerator available. The folding design is easy to store and transport, too.

Pros

Cons

Brinly PA-40BH Tow Behind Plug Aerator

For larger yards, we turn to tow-behind aerators, and this model is a 40-inch machine that features 24 heat-treated, 12-gauge steel tines that penetrate compact soil and can remove up to three inches of earth.

Each plugging spoon has been designed to be narrower than usual tines, with sharp tips to allow successful operation while carrying less weight. However, should you feel the need to add some extra muscle to sink the tines in, there is a weight tray included that will hold an extra 150 lbs.

A single pin hitch system ensures that it will attach to most garden tractors and ATVs with ease, and the simple assembly means you’ll be ready to go as soon as the conditions allow.

Pros

Cons

Buyer’s Guide to Choosing the Best Lawn Aerator

Below you’ll find an in-depth guide on what to look out for or consider before purchasing an aerator. An FAQ section will follow.

Size of Lawn

Lawn aerators come in all shapes and sizes and are used in a variety of ways and techniques (outlined below).

Which one you choose will largely depend on the size of the land you wish to aerate.

If you have a smaller yard, you might not need much more than a manual aerator.

But if you’re lucky enough to have a yard large enough for one of these awesome zero-turn lawnmowers, then you should probably choose a tow aerator.

And bear in mind you won’t see any industrial/commercial/professional aerators here – they’re far too expensive and overkill for most residential use.

Spike or Plug Aerators?

Aerators operate by using either a spike or a plug system.

A spike aerator offers exactly that – a number of spikes that are used to poke holes in the lawn or top surface.

They’re ideal as a quick, temporary solution to poor irrigation and useful for seeding purposes, and they can be used on most lawn types and in any conditions.

Plug aerators (sometimes called core aerators) work by actually removing a small plug of soil from your lawn, and then depositing it on the surface.

This can have numerous advantages. It’s ideal for clay-heavy soil that’s tightly compacted, where a spike aerator will be all but useless.

The soil plugs should be left to decompose and fertilize the lawn, and it’s a very effective method for seeding/overseeding.

However, you’ll find that plug aerators are more time-consuming, and they need a specific set of conditions to be most effective and not ruin your lawn.

Also, some people don’t like the aesthetic of nuggets of soil left on their lawn surface – they look a lot like animal droppings.

Type/Application

Aerators come in a variety of types depending on their application.

There are products that you strap to your feet to aerate your lawn as you walk over it – using your own body weight to sink the tines or spikes deep into the terrain.

Manual, hand-operated aerators are available that you use by walking over your land and physically digging them into the soil.

Electric models are also on the market – with the machines usually combining an aerator with a dethatcher or another useful gardening tool.

Liquid aerators have been developed, and they offer an excellent alternative to mechanical devices or other tools. Applied with garden sprayers, they break down the soil and improve drainage, while having a huge advantage when it comes to using the least effort.

Tow-behind aerators are best for folks with larger areas to cover (and if you have something to tow it with in the first place).

Finally, industrial aerators are available – and while they’re probably the best lawn aerator machines, they’re outrageously expensive, they weigh a ton, and are superfluous for most people who just wish to improve the irrigation of their yard a couple of times a year.

Cost

And speaking of expense, the price of aerators can vary significantly depending on the type.

Once you’ve figured out which one you need, you should be in a better place to understand what sort of ballpark figure you might be paying for the tool.

However, I will say this – remember that we’re talking about a job that doesn’t need to be done very often (depending on your soil type, region, and garden aspirations).

That alone is worth bearing in mind before you part with big money.

FAQs

Which is better – a plug or spike aerator?

The consensus is that plug/core aerators are better.

This is particularly true if you have clay-heavy soil that can become seriously compacted. A spike tool or machine isn’t going to be nearly as successful.

If you think about what you’re trying to achieve, a spike aerator does create holes in your lawn, but it also compacts soil around the initial entry point – which can defeat the whole purpose.

On the other hand, plug aerators actually remove soil and create holes, which will allow the earth to breathe and expand – filling those holes back up over time – and by the very action not continuing to pack the earth down.

Having said that, spike aerators have their place – especially if your soil is already somewhat loose, or you need a temporary solution.

They’re also great for preparing your lawn for overseeding.

Plug aerators require specific conditions to be successful, and they can be stressful to your lawn. A real mess can be made if it’s done at the wrong time.

Should I pick up plugs after aerating?

You can if you want to – many people believe that the biggest disadvantage of core aeration is the unsightly plugs that it leaves behind.

However, it’s only going to create more work for you to remove them – and you’ll just be taking away good soil.

Leave them where they are, and they will naturally breakdown and help to fertilize your lawn.

What should I put on my lawn after aerating?

First, as mentioned above, leave the plugs alone if you’ve used a core aerator.

Next, you need to overseed your lawn. Make sure you choose the correct seeds for the type of grass you currently have, or you can feel free to mix it up or change the species over time.

If you’re starting fresh, you should choose a grass that will thrive in your location.

If the clouds are not due to open, water your lawn thoroughly. You need to do this every day until the seeds germinate. The seeds need to be kept wet, without over-saturation.

For that, it might be a good idea you treat yourself to a new hose reel cart.

It is recommended you don’t mow the lawn until you’ve allowed plenty of time for new growth.

After a few days, apply a starter fertilizer that will provide essential nutrients right where the lawn needs it. Your new seeds should have had the chance to become established.

For more information and some great advice for the whole process of overseeding and rescuing your lawn, check out the video below.

Is there a bad time to aerate your lawn?

Yes. Never aerate your lawn when it’s been raining heavily, or it’s generally too wet – you’ll just turn it into the grounds of a music festival after a thunderstorm.

Also, the summer isn’t a good time as the turf is likely to already be stressed with hot weather.

Can I mow my lawn after aeration?

It is recommended that you wait at least a week before mowing your lawn after aeration and overseeding.

Remember that you want to protect the new seeds as much as possible, so if you go hacking at the lawn right away you’ll do the opposite.

Give the new growth time before you mow – and make sure that when you do, your blades are sharp and you spend as little time as possible on the lawn.

Here’s a great resource for lawnmower blade sharpeners – if your edge has been dulled.

How long should you wait to mow your lawn after aeration?

As long as possible – but sometimes this isn’t an option depending on the type of grass.

As mentioned above, you should wait for about a week at the very least. But with most grass species taking between 10 and 14 days to germinate, you really shouldn’t be touching it for a while.

However, don’t wait until the grass is so high that it’s crowding out your new growth and preventing sunlight from reaching it.

Play it by ear (or sight), but when in doubt you can ask a lawn care professional for their opinion.

Can I use a tiller to aerate my lawn?

No. A tiller is designed to turn the soil while an aerator punches holes in it.

If you use a tiller on your lawn you will either break your tiller, destroy your lawn, or possibly both.

However, it is possible to buy aeration attachments for certain tillers – so check with the manufacturer to see if this is an option.

What is the best month to aerate my lawn?

If you have cool season grasses, the best time to aerate your lawn is in the fall. For warm season grasses, you should be looking at late spring.

Should I seed right after aerating?

It is recommended that you seed within a day or two of aerating. If you’ve taken the trouble to aerate your lawn in the first place, you don’t want to waste this opportunity.

This is why liquid aerators are not ideal for the seeding process.

Of course, you don’t need to seed at all if you simply want to improve the drainage and overall health of your lawn.

Should I aerate or dethatch first?

You need to dethatch before you aerate or you risk pushing unwanted surface material deeper into your lawn.

For an at-a-glance guide, the process is as follows –

1. Mowing.
2. Dethatching.
3. Watering (until moist but not soaking, and only if it’s already too dry).
4. Aerating.
5. Overseed/seeding.
6. Watering.
7. Fertilizing.

Remember though – it’s not as simple as that – and you will need to pay attention at each stage so you know when, where, and how to achieve the most beautiful lawn in the neighborhood.

Should I rent an aerator?

Many people decide that renting an aerator is the way to go – but why bother doing that when you could have your own?

Granted, it’s not going to be a $4,000 industrial-class model, but it will still do the same job, albeit take a little longer.

And if you’ve got a large enough yard, a tow-behind aerator is every bit as good.

Don’t forget if you’re going this once a year, the cost of renting will soon add up – and hiring a professional to simply poke holes in your lawn is going to be even more expensive.

I say if you’re perfectly capable of doing it – you should do it yourself.

The exercise will do you good.

Summary

Lawn aeration is key to a healthy and happy lawn, ensuring that it has proper irrigation, while allowing oxygen and nutrients to do their work.

I hope this article has gone some way to helping you find the best lawn aerator for you and your needs.

As I have a moderate-sized yard, I’d be leaning towards trying a liquid aerator – but if I was to try overseeding, I’d probably choose the step-on core aerator and give myself a work-out in the process.

Let me know which aerator you would choose and why.

I wish you the best of luck in turning your lawn into the green of any 18th.

Before you leave. If you are really serious about getting your yard in the best possible killers, don’t forget to get rid of old stumps as well. A quality stump killer will come in handy when taking your yard to the next level.

Weed and feed, lawn starters, lawn food, turf builders, lawn boosters, organic feeds, super-duper-grow-tastic-all-lawn-can-eat-buffets…

And that’s just the fertilizers!

Which pretty much answers the question in the title of this article.

Lawn food vs fertilizer – what’s the difference?

There isn’t any.

But rather than make this the shortest article ever, I’m still going to include some useful information on  the relationship lawns have with fertilizers – and why you should be adding them to your yard.

Lawn Food vs Fertilizer – The Short Version

Is lawn food the same as fertilizer?

Yes.

That is, if we’re talking about products that are designed to stimulate the growth of your lawn, keep weeds at bay, and help prevent pests and disease.

Plants (including the grass in your lawn) actually make their own food – so it’s a bit of a misnomer anyway. Keep reading for more on this process.

So, why all the confusion? Let’s find out.

Lawn Food or Fertilizer?

Simply put, there is no difference between commercially available plant food and fertilizer – it’s just a clever marketing strategy by some companies, and it’s not actually “food” at all.

Here’s a description of both, in a nutshell:

Fertilizers are products that are designed to boost the nutrient levels in the soil, so grasses, vegetables, and other plants can draw what they need to grow into healthy, bountiful organisms.

Plant/Lawn food is just the name that some garden-care companies give to their fertilizer products.

However, actual plant food is something completely different – and you’ll find more on this topic coming up.

Simple, right?

Now that’s all cleared up, I can start telling you some really useful stuff.

Here’s a great article on all the different types of lawn fertilizer available, so you can figure out the exact product that your lawn needs – depending on what you’re trying to achieve.

And the advice at this link will tell you when you need to fertilize your garden in general – and how often.

Plant Food vs Lawn Food vs Flower Food

Just so there’s no confusion – the same description can be applied to commercially available “plant food.”

Like lawn food, it’s a fertilizer product that contains ingredients to help boost a plant’s growth, which might be tailored to a specific plant – depending on the product.

Here we can mention stereotypical lawn food from Scotts, for example, and plant food from Miracle-Gro.

Both of which, of course, are actually just fertilizers!

But those sachets of flower food you get when you buy a bunch of blooms are a little different.

They’re designed to help keep cut flowers fresh for longer, and generally contain three surprising ingredients – citric acid, sugar, and bleach.

Yes, you read that correctly!

In fact, it’s actually very easy to make your own cut flower food, with one teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of bleach, two teaspoons of lemon juice, and a quart of lukewarm water.

Do that the next time you buy flowers for your partner (or for yourself), and the flower food sachet is missing.

And speaking of doing things yourself, why not check out this article on DIY lawn fertilizers – which will tell you all you need to know to produce your own, money-saving batch of “lawn food!”

Real Lawn Food

Now we’ve dispelled the myths of lawn foods (as in – it’s not actually food at all), let’s take a look at where plants and grass actually get their real food from.

And then, if you keep reading, how fertilizers fit into this process.

How much did you pay attention in biology class?

This doesn’t need to be overly complex – and so here’s a quick refresher:

The key word (that most of us will remember) is photosynthesis.

In order to complete this fascinating process, plants need chlorophyll – the pigment that gives all plants their green color.

And in order to produce a healthy amount of chlorophyll (among other things), our green friends need at least 17 mineral nutrients drawn from the world around them.

That’s plant nutrition in its most basic, basic form.

Super basic.

These nutrients can be divided into macro and micro varieties, which I’ve organized into a helpful table, below:

Consider each nutrient a building block for an organism to be a healthy, well-adjusted, grounded, contributing member of plant society.

Remove one, and over time you will notice the effects, depending on the nutrient, the plant, the conditions, and how much it has been deprived.

And while each nutrient has its own part to play, the most important of these, are the three macronutrients at the top of the left-hand column.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – the “big three.”

The eagle-eyed among you will notice that their chemical symbols – N, P, and K, correspond to those numbers on the front/back of bags of fertilizer.

This tells you the percentage of each nutrient contained within that particular product. And we basically use such fertilizers to ensure optimum conditions so that a plant can create genuine “plant food.”

This leads us nicely onto our next chapter, but if you’d like to take a more detailed dive into how plants make their food, you can check out the highly educational video below:

How Fertilizers Work

There are many benefits to fertilizing your lawn and garden, including promoting vibrant colors, strong root systems, bountiful yields, and keeping weeds, pests, and disease under control.

But how do they actually work?

It helps to think of them as a sort of multivitamin for plants.

I take an effervescent vitamin supplement every morning, for example, to boost my immune system. Adding fertilizer/lawn food to the desirable plants in my garden is a similar practice.

The “Big Three”

Synthetic fertilizers contain a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The latter is often abbreviated to “potash.”

Nitrogen is used to promote healthy green leaves – boosting the production of chlorophyll, and is essential for growth.

Phosphorus promotes a strong and healthy root system, as well as helping to produce blooms, fruits, vegetables, and seeds.

Potassium is required for stress tolerance, and to help keep disease and pests at bay. Think of it as a general supplement for overall plant health.

Top-tip – you can easily remember the benefits of the “big three” using this simple trick. Nitrogen helps plants grow up, phosphorus helps them grow down, and potassium helps them all around.

Organic fertilizers are more useful for providing the micronutrients that plants need – something that synthetic fertilizers aren’t particularly useful for.

And while small amounts of macro and micronutrients are all found naturally in the soil and air around grass and plants, think of fertilizers as a helping leg up.

But how do you what the soil needs in the first place? What’s the best ratio of NPK numbers to use?

That’s quite straightforward, as you can conduct a simple soil test, which will tell you exactly where your soil has a deficit, and could do with some help.

I highly recommend doing this before you start throwing anything down, as what works for my soil might not work for yours – particularly when living in different parts of the country/world.

Don’t just head to the local big-box store and pick up the first “lawn food” you find. Make sure you’re getting the ratios right, and your lawn will benefit as a result.

Fertilizer/Lawn Food Fillers

You might be wondering what else is in these fertilizers, considering the percentage amounts of the NPK numbers don’t add up to 100.

The rest of the product contains “fillers,” which are inactive ingredients that are used to dilute the nutrients.

They’re not there to make up the numbers – fillers help prevent nutrients from “burning” the plant life, as you can have too much of a good thing.

For more information, you can check out the video below, which explains how fertilizers help plants grow.

And before we finish up with some frequently asked questions, here’s an article you don’t want to miss: Our complete, month-by-month lawn care calendar.

It has everything you need to know and do throughout the year for the best chance of a beautiful lawn – so don’t miss it!

FAQs

Should I use liquid or granular fertilizer?

Easily one of the most common questions we get asked here at YardThyme – which is better – granular or liquid fertilizer?

It really depends on a number of factors, but a rule-of-thumb I like to remember is to use liquid for fast results, and granular for a slow-release formula.

Of course, it’s not always that black and white, and you can follow the link above for a full, in-depth article on the subject.

Does Fertilizer kill weeds?

It depends on the type of fertilizer – but to keep things simple, most fertilizers are designed to feed all plants – which includes undesirables like the six most common weeds you find in your lawn.

If you’re using a weed and feed product, however, it might be able to control weed growth with the inclusion of a pre-emergent herbicide mixed in with the fertilizer.

This article on fertilizers and weeds will tell you everything you need to know.

Should I use lawn food?

Yes. Next question.

Joking aside, you don’t need to use lawn food. Our lawns will be fine without – they just won’t ever reach their full potential without a bit of help.

But next time you’re driving around your neighborhood in the summer, make a note when you see a lush, thick, carpet of grass with a vibrant, deep green hue.

That’s the work of a fertilizer – among other lawn care practices.

If you’re serious about lawn care, then you need to be using a good quality fertilizer at least twice a year. And make sure you’ve got all these essential lawn care tools in your shed while you’re at it.

However, all that said, if you’re set against using any such formulas on your lawn, you can go the organic route.

Start a kitchen compost bin, with a compost tumbler outside – and you can create a super-charged topdressing that will benefit anything green in your garden.

Does fertilizer kill worms?

Earthworms are the gardener’s friend, and using lawn foods/fertilizer should be a concern for every gardener when it comes to protecting helpful species.

But fear not, for they should be fine with an application of most fertilizers – but you can check this article on worms and fertilizers for more info.

Does fertilizer go bad?

It’s a great question – as many gardeners have products sitting on the shelves in their sheds for several seasons.

And you can go here to find out if those fertilizers have a shelf life, including how long they last, when you should be using them, and if you can salvage that product that’s been stashed for X years.

Summary

I hope this article has cleared up any confusion about lawn food vs fertilizer, as they are actually one and the same thing!

It’s easy when you know, right?!

Let us know your thoughts in the comments, and/or if you have any fertilizing tips, tricks, and advice you’d like to share with your fellow green thumbs.

Stay safe out there, and happy gardening!