You just spent the day getting your lawn in good condition. The next morning you wake up to patches and claw marks throughout your yard!

I think we’ve all experienced that deep sinking feeling in the pit of our stomachs. Where to begin and wondering how to stop skunks from digging up our lawn?

The truth is:

There is always hope and a successful way of keeping these furry critters under wraps.

Whether you’re new or experienced in the art of skunk-proofing, there’s always an effective trick up the sleeve to try out.

So keep reading my fellow-gardeners.

Let’s look at how best to stop skunks from digging up your precious lawn.

How to Tell if Skunks are Causing the Issue?

Skunks have a unique set of characteristics that are easy to identify.

They are highly adaptable and known as great opportunists.

It is often worthwhile looking into an animal’s unique biology, habits, and habitat, to help one understand them a little better.

Skunks are primarily nocturnal creatures, while some are crepuscular (a fancy word for being active at twilight).

These cute, yet annoying creatures are omnivorous and can shift their diet according to each season. In winter they mainly eat mice, while in summer and spring they prefer insects, plants, and other small animals.

Their favorite food items are grubs, worms, beetles, grasshoppers, bird eggs, rodents, frogs, berries, and mushrooms.

As they forage for some of these items in your lawn or garden beds, you will always come across the aftermath of their small, overactive noses and paws. This will appear as small, 3 to 4 inch, cone-shaped holes in your lawn, with tufts of grass lifted above the soil.

Not a pretty sight!

Skunk tracks are easy to identify on soil, with 5 toes on each foot and visible claws.

If you have vegetables such as corn, they generally go straight for them, leaving the lower ears of the corn damaged.

Skunks will also raid poultry houses and like to give a good rummage through your garbage bins.

Then it’s all in the stink.

Formerly known as its musk, this yellowish odor is released from a skunk’s overactive anal glands and can reach up to 20 feet (6 meters). The smell is a tenacious one. It can be smelt up to 1.5 miles away and adheres to anything in its path.

You also won’t go wrong if you see a skunk.

There are 11 different species of skunks worldwide, 9 of which reside in the western hemisphere.

The most common type is your Striped Skunk. This skunk is known for its black fur with two large white stripes down its back, and a narrow white bar between the eyes. Skunks can range in weight from 1.5 to 14 lbs and are similar in size to a domestic cat.

Why do Skunks Dig Up My Lawn?

Mmm…

Nothing beats the appeal of a big green lawn.

The main reason for skunks digging up a lawn is to look for food or shelter.

In most cases, they will be foraging for insects or grubs under the grass in the top layer of soil. Skunks don’t like wasting time or energy, so they will usually feed within the first inch.

Read our article on how to stop most animals from digging holes in the yard for an easy step-by-step guide.

How to Get Rid of Skunks From Digging in Yard (Step-by-Step)

Once you have identified the skunks as the culprits, then what should you do about it?

Step One: Identifying Where the Skunks Live

First things first.

Time to put your detective hat on.

Try to identify where the skunks have moved in. Are they living in your yard or your neighbor’s yard?

Look out for their unique footprints and foraging holes in the lawn or garden beds.

Hopefully, you won’t come across their actual den.

However, if you find a den, then it is likely the skunks have younglings with them. Tolerance is the best approach then, as you allow the younglings to reach a certain age. Younglings do not open their eyes until 3 weeks and are weaned at 6 to 7 weeks old. After this, they will leave the den.

To tell if they are living in the den, while they are asleep, place flour or chalk dust around the opening of the den during the day. As soon as the sun goes down or the following morning, you can check the area for tracks.

Step Two: Deterring the Skunks From Living in a Den

Focus on making the den or area around it inhospitable. This will force the mum to relocate her younglings.

This can be done without bringing any harm to the skunk family.

At nightfall, after you see tracks, you will know that they are out of the den. Then place either mothballs tied in a cloth bag or ammonia-soaked or bleach-soaked rags into the den to keep them from returning.

It is not recommended for skunks to be physically removed as this can cause great distress, which might result in death. Skunk removals should only be done by licensed professionals who know how to relocate animals safely.

If removal is the only solution, then be sure to contact your local animal control department or humane society. In most states, it is illegal to remove animals yourself, so these people will be able to help you out.

Step Three: How to Seal a Vacant Den

Once you are sure the den has been vacated by your local skunk residents, it is important to seal the den right away.

This will keep skunks or other animals from taking residence in the future. And believe me, these critters won’t waste any time taking advantage of an open home!

Here’s how to do it:

Get a bag of large gravel and a separate pile of soil. Place some gravel in the hole, followed by some soil. Take a hosepipe and wash the dirt between the gravel. Now repeat this process several times until you reach 6 inches from the top of the hole.

Next, dig out a 12 to 18-inch circle around the entrance of the den, until you reach the same level as the gravel. Take a circular piece of chicken wire and place it over the entire hole that you dug. Cover the wire with gravel and fill in the hole with dirt.

Now wet the soil and stamp the area down until it is hard and level.

And there you have it:

A skunk home off the market.

Step Four: Getting Rid of Those Yummy Grubs

Our lawns or garden beds can offer skunks the most delicious food ever:

A literal grub buffet!

This is where prevention is key, and reducing the grub temptation is a great way of stopping skunks from digging holes in the lawn.

Grubs are the larvae of several types of beetles, such as June Bugs, Japanese Beetles, or May Beetles. These larvae feed on the roots of grass which diminishes the root mass, allowing much easier access for the skunks.

The solution:

Applying a combination of Nematodes and milky spores to the lawn.

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that eat grubs and can only be applied when new eggs have just hatched into larvae. Both nematodes and milky spores must be applied in late summer or early fall.

Milky spores are bacteria that cause disease among the larvae and are only effective for certain types of beetle larvae.

As it is difficult to identify which larvae you might have, it is most beneficial to use both of these methods.

There are also some good biodegradable products available, such as Anderson’s Organic Grub Control.

Here are some more helpful tips to try out when it comes to grub control:

Step Five: Catch Them Red-Handed!

One good way to stop skunks from digging up lawn, is to introduce a motion-detector light. For maximum results, you can install multiple light sources.

This is a great scare-tactic for keeping the skunks out but it won’t be a long-term solution, as they will soon learn that lights are harmless. Therefore it’s good to use other preventative methods with this tactic.

Motion-detected sprinklers, that will spray them with cold water as they cross its sensor are also useful.

If you’re looking for something different, then a mechanical scarecrow can be effective at scaring those furry bandits. These will often resemble common predators, such as owls, coyotes, and wolves.

Step Six: Out Stink the Skunks

Ironic, isn’t it?

Skunks have an acute sense of smell, so if you use some nifty home remedies to spray the perimeter of your yard, these will help reduce a lot of skunk activity.

Sprinkle spices such as paprika, cayenne pepper, or jalapeno pepper in key areas. And don’t be shy- a wide application will do wonders.

As the skunks dig, it will spread the spices into the soil.

Also, applications of soap or apple cider vinegar are known to deter skunks.

Many animals, including skunks, have a strong dislike for citrus. Simply peel and cut up lemons and sprinkle them around your garden and near your garbage containers.

Then you can make your own citrus spray. Place 2-3 drops of citrus essential oil into a spray bottle with one gallon of water.

Peppermint essential oil can be used similarly and works well at stopping skunks from burrowing under buildings.

Smells work by trial and error, so if you notice it’s not working then slightly increase the number of drops.

Step Seven: Remove Other Skunk Attractions

The best way to deter skunks from digging up your lawn is to remove other attractions from your yard.

Keep garbage sealed and inaccessible. Remove lumber and unnecessary junk piles. Skunks enjoy a good bite of your pet’s food, so be sure to store the food indoors or in a tightly-sealed storage container.

Seal any openings that a skunk may access under a shed, deck, or any other buildings. If given a small chance, you can count on them getting underneath anything!

If you have beehives, elevate the beehive about 3 feet and place a smooth metal sheet at the base.

Keep your yard cut back and tidy. Prune shrubs and trees as necessary and do not allow excessive amounts of nuts, berries, or acorns from remaining on the ground. Keep leaf litter low.

If you have a compost heap, make sure it is sealed off properly, as skunks love helping themselves to any veggie or fruit peels.

A big no-no: don’t add any meat or fish products into your compost.

These methods will also help keep other pests at bay, such as rats, mice, and rabbits.

Step Eight: Preparing a Skunk-Proof Fence

This works wonders, friends.

Skunk-proofing the perimeter of your yard sounds labor-intensive, but once done, your endless skunk problems will soon be a distant memory.

Check out this video for how to get the job done right:

Step Nine: Using Predator Urine

Say what?

You heard it. Urine seems to keep the skunks from digging up the lawn.

This is a very effective, natural control method. Skunks are afraid of foxes, coyotes, and both wild and domestic dogs. You can purchase coyote or fox urine from a local store and then spray it around the perimeter of your yard.

Some gardening stores provide flakes soaked in predator urine, that can be distributed where necessary.

If you have a dog, their urine can also be used to deter skunks. I’ll leave the task of collecting or distributing it, to your imagination!

Here are some carefully selected products that can help you keep those mischiefs under control:

Useful Skunk Repelling Products

YOFIT Horned Owl Scarecrow

This product seems to do the art of scaring very well.

This 15.7 by 6.7-inch bird can be placed on your patio overlooking the lawn or erected on a stake outside. It is solar-powered and will give anyone a big fright with its large, bright eyes.

Pros

Cons

Bonide Products Animal Repellent Granules

Here’s a very useful skunk repellent.

Apply the granules to your garden beds, lawn, or around any buildings and this will keep not only skunks but many other visitors at bay, such as raccoons, rabbits, beavers, chipmunks, squirrels, and mice.

Pros

Cons

Essentially KateS Peppermint Essential Oil

Here’s a benefit-rich product.

Not only does it smell nice and keep the skunks away, but it also helps with general hygiene around the home and garden.

The strong smell of the peppermint will irritate a skunk’s senses and will deter them from nesting in an area.

Pros

Cons

Aspectek Predator Eye Animal Repeller

Walmart.com

Wanting something even scarier?

This product is great at stopping skunks from digging up the lawn. With big flashing red eyes and the reflective icon, any intruders will want to stay far away.

This is a solar-powered repeller that goes on and off by itself and will last up to 7 days after a single charge.

Pros

Cons

The Next Big Step…

Getting out there and skunk-proofing your yard.

I hope you have found some useful tips and advice on how to stop skunks from digging up lawn.

It can take some trial and error, but soon you’ll come out on top.

We’d also love to hear from you.

If you have any comments or experiences to share with us about skunks, let us know in the comments section below.

You’ve got this.

Those skunks don’t know what’s coming their way!

Different species cultivars of turfgrasses have variable tolerance to environmental conditions, sun exposure, foot traffic and give a different feel and texture to the lawn. These are all very important elements to consider when choosing the perfect turf for your lawn.

However – I know what you’re about to say – turfgrass species are so numerous! And they all look the same! How to go about taking in and processing that amount of information on all superficially similar plants without getting everything mixed up in your mind?

In my experience, the best way to learn about turfgrasses is by comparing the two similar species.

This article represents a head-to-head – or blade-to-blade – battle of Bahia grass vs Bermuda grass, two very popular warm-season types of grass.

We will consider what is the difference between Bahia and Bermuda grass, what are the pros and cons of each species, and what conditions they require to thrive and create a beautiful lawn.

Bahia Grass Vs Bermuda Grass – Key Differences

When asking which one is better, Bahia grass or Bermuda grass, it is the easiest to first consider some key differences.

Both Bermuda and Bahia are perennial, warm-season, drought-tolerant grasses. However, there are a few subtle differences that may make a huge difference if you have specific conditions at the site. The difference between Bermuda grass and Bahia grass is reflected in the comparison below:

About Bahia Grass

There are a few kinds of grass that are as heat and drought tolerant as the Bahia grass. It is no wonder its main use in lawns is in the southeastern United States. Even in these harsh conditions, this species of grass produces a low-growing, quite durable, and low-maintenance turf.

The scientific name for Bahia grass is Paspalum notatum. Classified as tropical and subtropical grass, it is native to Mexico and South America, where it is primarily used as forage grass because of its nutritional value to cattle.

Bahia grass is low-growing and spreads via creeping above-ground stems called stolons, and plump rhizomes. The fact that stolons adhere to the ground firmly and that they root from the internodes allow Bahia grass to form a really dense turf. Outside of lawns and yards, these properties make it a good choice for stabilizing soil erosion.

Bahia Grass Requirements

A great perk of Bahia grass is that it makes a very resilient, problem-free, and low-maintenance turf. It even can’t stand overfertilization or overwatering, which can kill it. The lawn routine suitable for other, more delicate (but, to be honest, more attractive) turfgrasses St. Augustine will not do well with Bahia grass – meaning you can relax a bit.

Besides being tolerant of heat, drought, and some shade, Bahia is also tolerant of saline and sandy soils. It is suitable for southern locations where few kinds of grass can create a lush cover.

Also, Bahiagrass is well-suited for less maintained, scarcely irrigated areas of your property since it is a negligence-tolerant and easy-maintenance turf species. In the case of dry spells, it will recover quickly as soon as water becomes available again.

Bahia Grass – Possible Problems

Despite the tough and dense cover, it provides when it matures, Bahiagrass has a sluggish start, because it germinates slowly. It can take up to two years before the lawn is fully mature.

However, it establishes well, so it is a good choice when you want to start a lawn by seeding. Because it grows slowly and openly in the beginning, you will need to keep an eye out for weeds.

The weeds won’t be a problem later on, however, as the Bahiagrass will create an almost weed-proof cover, provided that the lawn remains healthy and well-maintained.

As I’ve mentioned before, Bahiagrass will remain green only during the active growth phase in spring and summer. As the autumn sets in, like all warm-season grasses, Bahia will enter a resting period called dormancy. Dormancy is for grasses what hibernation is for bears. The grass will become lively and green again the next spring, but until then, your lawn will be dull tan.

The good news is that you can overseed Bahia in autumn with some cool-season ryegrasses. That will give your lawn a wintergreen color – but there’s no need to bother if your lawn is covered in snow during most of the winter.

If you are still unsure if Bahia grass is the best choice for your yard circumstances here’s a final quick overview of Bahia grass pros and cons.

Pros of Bahia Grass

Cons of Bahia Grass

Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass, known in scientific classification as Cynodon dactylon, is a warm-season perennial grass that shares many of its traits with Bahia grass.

Ironically, Bermuda grass is not native to the Bermudas but is actually an invasive species there. Instead, its natural range includes vast tracts of Africa, Asia, Europe, and Australia; it has been naturalized in North America.

Bermuda Grass Requirements

Bermuda grass is one of the most drought-resistant and sun-tolerant grasses. It thrives in sunny positions and shade will stunt its growth. The resilience in the face of heat comes from a deep root system, which can grow to be as deep as 6.6 feet (2 meters) if the soil allows it.

Also, this species of grass is one of the fastest-growing turf grasses. Like Bahia grass, Bermuda grass grows in a creeping fashion, spreading via stolons that can root at any node that touches the ground. In time, it forms thick growth all over the available soil.

The turf’s thickness also has an important role in its drought resilience.

Optimum growth temperatures for Bermuda grass confirm that it’s a warmth-loving species – ideal temps range between 75 and 99 °F (24 and 37 °C), while growth begins at 59 °F (15 °C). When the temperature gets lower, it will stop growing, and in winter it will turn tan-brown.

It is more cold-sensitive than some other warm-season grasses such as Zoysia grass and Bahia grass, and that is also the reason why its dormancy period starts earlier and ends later.

Besides drought and heat, Bermuda grass is great at tolerating salt and humidity, making it one of the favorite lawn grasses for southern US states on both of its coasts.

However, Bermuda grass has a few extra requirements – plenty of direct sunshine, good drainage, and a bit of additional lawn care.

Bermuda Grass – Possible Problems

Bermudagrass will require both extra mowing and extra fertilizing because of its vigorous and fast growth. Usually, the grasses that grow quickly have higher nutritional needs. Also, it is only logical that because it grows so fast, you will need to mow more often, perhaps twice per week.

If you like to walk barefoot, be aware that it is less comfortable underneath bare feet than the softer Kentucky bluegrass.

Besides being quick, the Bermuda grass growth can also be quite aggressive, so you will probably need to apply control techniques such as edging.

While it prefers neutral and tolerates alkaline soils, Bermuda grass will not do well in acidic environments. If your soil is acidic, you may need to regularly add lime. Centipede grass, which is tolerant of low pH and shares some properties with Bermuda grass can be a good alternative in these circumstances.

If you are still undecided if Bermuda grass is the right one for you – here’s a final quick overview of Bermuda grass pros and cons.

Pros of Bermuda Grass

Cons of Bermuda Grass

Summary

From these descriptions, it is easy to conclude that both Bahia and Bermuda are awesome grasses that are tough and can thrive in exceptionally warm and dry conditions. Indeed, there is only a slight variance between the two species and if you are looking for a resilient drought-resistant lawn, both choices are valid.

Still, I hope that this article has helped you learn the difference and decide your personal favorite in the tight Bahia grass vs Bermuda grass competition.

Do you have experience with these turfgrasses? How do they compare in your area and which one do you prefer? Let us know in the comments!

Did you know that there are actually 3000 different kinds of earthworms?

If you’re passionate about gardening, at some point you’re going to wonder about the difference between compost worms versus earthworms in general.

How do you tell them apart, what are their key differences and why do you want them in your life?

I’m going to tell you!

Earthworm Basics

Earthworms are segmented annelids that live in the soil and feed on decaying organic matter like leaf litter and dead roots. They require a moist environment so they don’t dry out and will often burrow deeper into the ground in dry conditions.

When we say earthworm, we’re most often referring to the most common earthworm species that you’d find in your backyard. But what you may not have realized is that there is more than one species populating the soil in your garden.

Most earthworms in the United States were introduced with the arrival of Europeans in the 1600s. Prior to the last ice age, there were native species of earthworms throughout the continent. There remain around 100 species of native earthworms today, though they are often outcompeted by their European counterparts.

The most common earthworms that you’ll find in your backyard in the U.S. are the Lumbricidae family which includes Lumbicus Rubellus, or red worms, and Lumbicus Terrestris, or the nightcrawler. Some Lumbricids are endemic to North America but most are not.

There are three categories of earthworms, divided according to where they live and how they form tunnels.

Compost Worm Basics

Compost worms are a kind of earthworm.

But while there are many, many different kinds of earthworms, there are only a few that work well for composting.

The most common species of worms for compost use are the Eisenia Fetida and Eisenia Andrei, or red wigglers. But Lumbicus Rubellus, or red worms, are also suitable.

Are red worms and red wigglers the same? Be careful not to be confused between the common names of red worms and red wigglers. They are two very different species, though both can be used for composting.

Why?

The reason red wigglers and red worms are great for composting is where they hang out.

Most earthworms burrow deeper into the soil with their food which isn’t ideal in a worm farm situation. Red wigglers and red worms, as explained above, are epigeic, meaning they hang out near the surface, constantly traveling upwards towards new food sources as you add more layers.

They regularly eat about half of their body weight in food per day, quickly breaking down waste into nutrient-dense excreta. And they reproduce very quickly, meaning that as long as conditions are ideal (temperature, humidity, acidity, and food supply), you will have a thriving population of worms in your compost.

In saying that, they typically tolerate a wider range of temperatures than other earthworms. This means they are better able to survive in a worm farm which may experience a greater variation in temperature than the ground.

What Are the Main Differences: Compost Worms vs Earthworms

The most obvious differences when it comes to telling apart compost worms from other earthworms are their size, color, where they live, and what they feed on.

Size

Red wigglers are generally smaller than other earthworms. While many earthworms can grow to around 6 inches long, red wigglers are typically 3 – 4 inches when fully grown.

Color

Like their name, red wigglers are redder in color than other earthworms which tend to be a more purple, grey color.

Where They Live

As mentioned above, where they hang out is the defining difference between red wigglers and other earthworms.

Red wigglers prefer to hang out near the surface, traveling upwards to find more food. Other earthworms prefer to be deeper in the soil, burrowing downwards and living on the organic matter than is already underground.

What They Eat

Red wigglers eat a wide range of organic matter (and a lot of it), including most household vegetable waste, newspaper, coffee grounds, compostable tea bags (be sure to check that your tea bags don’t contain plastic), leaves, and cardboard.

Most earthworms on the other hand have a preferred diet of leaf litter, decaying plant matter, fungi that live on the roots of plants, and even the soil itself.

How to Identify Red Wigglers and Red Worms

Since you can’t find them in your garden, it’s unlikely that you’ll need to know how to identify red wigglers.

Red worms, on the other hand, you might be able to find hanging out near your compost heap or under a rotting log. But, in saying that, you’ll still probably be hard pushed to tell them apart from other earthworms.

Red wrigglers are usually 3-4 inches long, red, as their name suggests, sometimes with slightly lighter red or yellow tip on their tail, and when they stretch out, their segmented body appears striped with a lighter pink color. In fact, in some countries, these worms are known as tiger worms instead of red wrigglers.

Red wrigglers also have a clitellum, or saddle, a segment of their body near their head, that is noticeably wider than the rest of the body. Other worms’ clitellum is more likely to be the same width as their bodies.

Red worms are very similar, although they may have a slightly more brown tinge to their color, though, as mentioned above, it can be very hard to tell these worms apart!

If you want some red wigglers for your worm farm, you’ll need to get some from a friend (you don’t need many as they reproduce quickly) or purchase them since you won’t find them in your garden.

Benefits of Red Wigglers

As you’ve probably guessed by now, the main benefits of red wigglers are their use in vermicomposting.
They speed up the composting process by breaking down organic waste at a faster rate than microbes in a regular compost heap.

They also eliminate the need to turn compost heaps, and they leave behind vermicast, or worm feces, which make some of the best fertilizer in existence.

Keeping a worm farm is one of the most impactful things you can do if your aim is to live more sustainably.

Food waste accounts for a huge amount of landfill in the U.S. which contributes significantly to greenhouse gasses in the atmosphere, so using worms to help turn this waste into nutrient dense compost for your garden is hugely beneficial on many levels.

Benefits of Earthworms

The benefits of other species of earthworms in your garden mostly come from their burrowing habit which aerates the soil, keeping it loose and healthy.

Nutrients, water and plant roots are better able to travel through loose soil, resulting in healthier plants.

Earthworms also break down organic matter, fertilizing the soil with their excreta which is an essential role.

The presence of a good number of earthworms in your garden is a reflection on the health of your soil. If you don’t find any worms in your garden, your soil probably needs some help!

Cons of Earthworms

Are There Any Cons?

Surprisingly, yes. Though not for your garden.

The cons of earthworms in North America come about when earthworms enter the native forest. The very things we love them for in our gardens – their ability to aerate and loosen the soil, and making nutrients more available – favors invasive plant species over native and has the potential to increase erosion.

You can help to prevent the spread of introduced earthworms in native ecosystems by choosing non-invasive species of worms to use for bait if you’re fishing, and being careful where you dispose of unused bait.

In your garden, earthworms are only good!

Worm Farm Tips

Surely after all of this worm talk, you’ll be itching to get your own worm farm started?

It’s easier than you might think to get started. Have a watch of a video like this to get the basics sorted.

Make sure you have some understanding of the conditions that your worms prefer and how to keep them happy.

This includes moisture, temperature, pH, amounts, and types of food.

Worms like it moist, but not too moist! They prefer moderate temperatures, a fairly neutral pH (6-7 is ideal), and just enough food to keep them munching but not so much that other critters are attracted to the uneaten waste. (There are some handy tools available to help with this!)

They love to eat most fruit and vegetable scraps, paper, cardboard and some grass clippings, but things to avoid are greasy/fatty foods, animal products, grains, onion, tomato and citrus. (If this is a lot remember, stick a poster like this one up on your fridge so that you and other family members can easily double check.)

A great tip is to use rainwater to splash on your worm farm to keep things nice and moist and protect the worms from the chemical and mineral content of tap water.

It’s also worth remembering that you shouldn’t handle worms with your bare hands. Instead, use gloves to protect the worms from the oils on your skin.

If you’re not quite ready to delve into the world of worm farms, using a compost tumbler is one of the easiest ways of keeping a home compost.

Summary

As you can see there’s a little more to it than a simple compost worm vs. earthworms comparison.

Compost worms are a kind of earthworm, they are just a species of earthworm that behave in a way that make them well suited to helping us out with our composting needs.

If you’re just getting into the garden game, have a read of our intro to lawn care tools and ensure you’ve got all bases covered. If you’re on the veggie garden train, a soaker hose is one of the best investments you can make for effective irrigation while conserving water.

Have you got a worm farm? Are you loving it? Feel free to tell us all about it in the comments!

And yet it can be the difference between an average garden, and a great one, helping to encourage healthy growth, improve drainage, and keep diseases at bay.

But what are lawn aerators? How do they work? Do you know how to use one? Why are they important?

In this article, we take a look at the different types of lawn aerators on the market, and help you decide which one is right for your needs.

Let’s get stuck in.

Types of Aerators – Too Long, Didn’t Read

Life can be pretty fast-paced, and not everyone has the time to read a full article – however short. With that in mind, here’s a brief summary of what’s to come:

Other gardening websites might try to tell you otherwise, but there are, essentially, only three types of lawn aerators:

And within those three types, there are several more “subdivisions” of aerators:

But they will all fall under at least one of the main three types of aerator.

That’s the basic gist of it, but if you want to learn more – including the pros and cons of each, some top tips on how to use them, and if you actually need an aerator at all, I suggest reading on!

What is Lawn Aeration?

For all you rookie green thumbs out there, lawn aeration simply means a process that is designed to loosen compact soil in a lawn and allow the earth to breathe.

And it typically involves using some kind of tool or machine to poke holes in the surface or to remove/break down the material.

While this might sound like a somewhat strange practice to the uninitiated (my neighbor wondered what on earth I was doing), it comes with several benefits that are essential to the life of a healthy lawn.

This includes improving drainage, reducing thatch, encouraging nutrients, air and water to flow into the soil, and more.

This article on the differences between aerating and dethatching explains what sets them apart.

And for a more in-depth explanation of the advantages of lawn aeration – and why you should do it – follow that link.

Does My Lawn Need Aeration?

Before we get stuck into explaining the different types of aerators, it might be a good idea to ascertain if your lawn needs to be aerated in the first place.

In which case, you need to stick something into it.

Grab a pen or a screwdriver, and push it into the soil on your lawn. If you meet with any kind of resistance, then there’s a good chance you need to aerate the area.

Another key tell happens during/after rainfall.

Keep an eye out when the clouds open, and if you have any puddles or patches of water left on your lawn for any length of time, then it could probably benefit from some drainage assistance.

And if you happen to live in a region with heavily clay-based soil, then you don’t even need to do the screwdriver test – your lawn is definitely going to need aerating at least once a year.

Aerator Types

As mentioned in the introduction, aerators will fall into three main categories – spike, core, and liquid. Each is explained in more detail, below.

Spike Aerators

A spike aerator is any tool or device used to poke a hole in the surface of a lawn. Simply put, they use metal tines to drive into the soil, creating as many holes as there are spikes with each pass.

So, you can use anything that pokes holes?

Pretty much. A standard garden fork can be used as a spike aerator, by walking on your lawn, and then driving the tines into the turf every few feet.

In fact, the humble garden fork has so many uses, it’s easily included in the most essential garden tools list.

But this sounds so simple – why would anyone need any other kind of grass aerator?

Well, apart from it being backbreaking work (believe me – I’ve tried), spiked aerators have significant disadvantages from other types.

As the tines drive into the surface, the soil underneath is only being compacted downwards, as each hit with the spike simply compresses the material, rather than removing it completely.

Which kind of defeats the object, doesn’t it?

Technically, the soil is still going to have the same volume, so has there really been any decompacting at all?

They’re also the cheapest of all the options available, and they don’t leave soil or material on the surface, like core aerators do.

This can look like animal droppings until it decomposes, and – although it’s actually beneficial for the grass – some gardeners don’t like this aesthetic strewn across their lawns.

Core Aerators

Next up, we’ve got core aerators, which, as you might have guessed, actually removes material from the lawn, using hollow tines.

Think about when you core an apple – and you’ll get the idea.

Otherwise known as plug aerators, they work in a similar fashion to spikes, but instead of driving the soil down, the tines actually collect material, bringing it up to the surface, and then depositing it on top of the lawn.

This can be done by hand, or with gas-powered machines, or tow-behind aerators for use with a lawn tractor or ATV (more on this, below).

The major advantage that core aerators have over every other type, is the fact that they genuinely do the job they’re being asked to do – removing material, and allowing the soil to decompact.

However, their one main disadvantage is that they leave little plugs of soil deposits all over the yard – which can look unsightly, and take a while to break down.

But if you don’t mind your lawn having a few “soil turds” scattered around for a couple of weeks, this can actually benefit the turf in the long run, as the material breaks down and turns into compost.

Another potential downside is that soil and material can get stuck in the tines – especially with manual core aerators. In order for it to continue to be effective, you need to stop and clear the blockage.

With that in mind, core aerators are arguably more suitable for clay-based soils.

For a more detailed look at spike vs plug aerators, follow that link, and find out which comes out on top overall.

Liquid Aerators

The third most common type of lawn aerator is a liquid version. And of the three, this is the one that causes the most discussion and debate.

Does it actually work?

First, a word on how it’s dispensed.

A liquid lawn aerator is a non-toxic compound that is mixed with water and sprayed on the soil surface. They might also be called “soil looseners.”

To make things easier, they’re usually applied in conjunction with a special adaptor for your garden hose.

This Dial and Spray product from Ortho is a good example, and is the one I’ve been using when testing out liquid lawn aerators. I highly recommend it.

The problem is – the jury is well and truly out on whether it actually works!

Case in point – I tried it last year, after watching a couple of YouTube videos claiming that it was effective, and that you will clearly see results.

But I wasn’t particularly impressed, and couldn’t really tell if anything had happened at all.

Then again, maybe I did it wrong? Perhaps I didn’t use enough? Maybe I had an inferior product? Perhaps my lawn didn’t actually need aerating in the first place.

There’s no doubt that liquid aerators can save you a lot of time and effort – and money, too, if you’re not hiring a machine every year, or buying an expensive gas-powered model outright.

And the technology is thought to be improving all the time – so perhaps a truly effective liquid aerator is within our grasp?

Take a look at the video below, which champions liquid as the best type of aerator for lawns, and see if it makes your mind up.

Manual vs Machine vs Tow-Behind

Liquid aeration aside for one moment, let’s further explore the different types of aerators available – when it comes to how they’re powered.

Each of these options are typically available as either spike and/or core aerators.

“Manual” aerators can include versatile tools like garden forks, but there are more dedicated aerating tools and equipment out there.

However, it’s going to take a lot of effort to use on larger areas, and you’re in for a serious work-out.

You need to have a decent level of fitness to use one, and it’s probably best reserved for spot treatments, or aerating smaller lawns.

And you will most certainly need to wear some good quality gloves while using it – so follow that link for some excellent options.

You can also purchase aerator footwear – which is as gimmicky as it sounds. Sandals with spikes on the bottom that you strap on over your shoes.

In theory, it’s genius – take a walk around your yard and let the spikes on the bottom of your shoes do the work for you. Or, better yet – get the kids to do it, if you have some running around.

But theory doesn’t always translate to practice. If the ground is particularly packed, then it’s not going to be that easy to take each step, and your gentle stroll has suddenly turned into a hike up Everest.

And if a shoe does get stuck, then a fall and possibly a twisted ankle might be the result.

Another manual alternative is a rolling aerator, which works in a similar fashion to a cylinder push lawnmower, or even a lawn roller.

Instead of blades to cut the grass, it features a drum wheel with spikes, which penetrate the ground with each rotation as it’s pushed along.

There are pros and cons with this method, however, as while it can save a lot of time and effort compared to the manual stick-and-stamp aerator, it isn’t nearly as effective at the job.

That’s because for a tool to be genuinely useful for aeration, it needs to have enough weight behind it to properly dig into the turf – especially if said turf is particularly dense.

Which brings me nicely onto motorized/machine aerators – and tow-behind options.

If you don’t fancy the hard slog, then these aerators could well be the better choice for you. However, they certainly come with a few caveats.

Walk-behind, gas-powered aerators are extremely expensive, and given that most people need them less than once a year, they’re really only useful/practical for lawn-care professionals, or if you have the money and the storage space.

If you’re serious about lawn aeration, and you have a medium to large lawn to cover, then consider renting a gas-powered core machine each year, or as and when necessary.

Electric aerators are more affordable, and they often come as part of a dethatcher/aerator package. You can switch out the drum depending on the job you need them to do.

Remember – don’t confuse the two – and make sure you get a machine with a dethatcher and an aerator tool.

Alternatively, you can visit this link for a comparison between power rakes and dethatchers, to find out which one you need. (Clue – they’re pretty much the same thing.)

Another option is to use a tow-behind aerator, which, again, can be of either the spike or the core variety.

Tow behind aerators are actually relatively inexpensive, but they do come with one major downside – you need the right vehicle with which to pull them.

They also need to be weighed down in some manner. Some will be drum rollers, which you need to fill with water or sand (again, similar to a lawn roller). Others, you weigh down by strapping bricks or cinder blocks to the top.

But they can certainly get the job done, and can be the best choice if you have a particularly large area of lawn to cover.

Finally, you can also purchase aerator attachments that are compatible with zero-turn lawnmowers and other ride-on machines, and sit in front of the cutting deck – rather than towing behind.

Soil Conditioners

It’s possible that there is a fourth type of lawn aerator – a granular/dry soil conditioner.

Sometimes called soil amendments, soil conditioners are products designed to improve the overall structure of the soil, and increase its fertility.

They’re useful for areas that need a boost, to generate lawn health, and/or to revitalize growth, and they work by increasing soil carbon, adding organic matter and improving nutrient and water uptake in plants.

And, potentially, improving aeration at the same time.

However, as it isn’t a dedicated lawn aerator, I wouldn’t rely on a soil conditioner alone. Perhaps when used in conjunction with another method, you will see the best possible results.

Lawn Care Program – Where Does Aeration Fit In?

There’s a lot to consider when it comes to lawn care.

When and how much to water? How do you overseed successfully? How do you deal with yellow grass?

And where does lawn aeration fit into all the chaos?

The general rule of thumb is after dethatching but before overseeding.

And speaking of dethatching, check out this review of the best dethatchers on the market. Perfect for removing dead grass, debris, and other material from your lawn, before you bust out the aerator.

Our complete lawn aeration guide will tell you all you need to know about poking holes in your garden – including how to do it, suggestions on what to use, and how often it needs to be done.

What is the Best Lawn Aerator?

So, after all that, of all the different types of lawn aerators available, have we come to a conclusion on which is the best one?

The answer is – not really.

What works for me might not work for you.

Some folks prefer the affordability of a garden fork, others the novelty of aeration shoes, some the heavy-duty gas-powered aerator machine, while many choose the tow-behind option if they already have an ATV or tractor.

It’s up to you to decide which type is right for you and your lawn. And sometimes, the final decision will come down to the trial and error of a number of options.

This general article on the best lawn aerators should point you in the right direction if you’re still figuring things out.

Summary

As there are several types of lawn aerators out there, you might have a spot of bother choosing the right one.

Hopefully, this article has helped you decide – and you should tell us in the comments which method is right for you.

Alternatively, do let us know if you’re seeing success with a particular type – and share it with the community. Us gardening folks are always on the lookout for products and techniques that actually work.

Good luck with your lawns, stay safe out there, and happy aerating!

There is no need to be alarmed because I will share some tips that will teach you how to get rid of frogs in your yard in no time.

How to Get Rid of Frogs in Your Yard

Frogs and toads are not dangerous, but the very sight of them could make your head spin, especially if they suddenly jump out of tall weeds. (by the way, we recommend you read our article on the best pet-safe weed killers for conquering the weed problem without harming your pets).

The easiest way to force frogs and toads to move out of your yard is to get inside their brains and figure out their basic needs. For instance, frogs and toads are always searching for food and a place to live. You simply need to remove the things that attract them.

Remove Grass and Weeds

Maintaining your yard regularly can prevent the frog infestation. However, all of us sometimes forget to cut the grass or pull out the weeds.

Tall grass is inviting to various types of bugs, such as spiders and grasshoppers. Considering that frogs love eating insects, they could quickly find the way to your yard. If you want to get rid of them, start by taking away their favorite food.

Or start planting plants that repel such insects.

Additionally, frogs and toads prefer dark and shady hiding spots. Uncut grass is often their first choice because it will hide them from the sun. Once you mow the lawn, frogs will lose their favorite habitat as well as the food source.

Turning off your porch light at night is another useful trick. The lights draw in insects, and frogs usually follow after them. If you are wondering how to get rid of frog infestation without hurting the animals, these suggestions should work.

Draining the Water

Do you have a water source in your yard? Is the water dirty, muddy, or stagnant? Frogs are attracted to water since it is their natural habitat. They lay eggs in it and hunt mosquitoes that usually buzz around when the weather is warm and humid. Go ahead and drain or fill in the ponds in your yard.

If you want to keep the pond, invest in a filter that will circulate the water and keep it clean.

You could be wondering how to get rid of frogs in fish ponds since I haven’t mentioned it yet. A fish pond often has sentimental value, and it would be a shame to remove it from your yard. Unfortunately, they are not safe from frogs either.

The first thing you need to do is scoop up the algae from the surface of the fish pond. Then pull out the weeds or any plants growing on the edges of the pond. Frogs and toads will be left without the breeding grounds, and you will still have a lovely fish pond in your yard.

How to Keep Frogs Away from Pool

Frogs and toads simply can’t stay away from water, and your pool is no exception. They see it as a huge pond, with plenty of food and places to hide from the sunlight. Considering the number of bugs that hang around your pool, it is safe to say that frogs see it as a buffet.

The chances are you also have pool lights, and insects are drawn to them. Unfortunately, frogs are drawn to the insects so they could be claiming your pool as their own in no time.

Surely, frogs could be useful because they eat bugs, but there are a couple of reasons why you don’t want them anywhere near your pool. The first one is because they lay eggs in the water. They look like tiny clusters of black dots floating around the bottom of your pool. Pool owners may fish them out with a net easily, but that doesn’t solve the problem.

The second reason why you want to keep your pool frog-free is that they often die in the water. These creatures can’t tell the difference between a pond and a pool since it is all water to them. However, pools are hard to get out of, and frogs get trapped in them. They could swim around for hours without finding the steps and eventually drown.

A dead frog floating around your pool is not a pretty sight, so here are a couple of methods you could use. These tricks will save their lives and make them hop away in a different direction.

Protect your Pool

Before you begin the process of protecting your pool, cut the grass and weeds in your yard. This should reduce the number of possible hiding spots for frogs and toads. They love hanging out in tall weeds before jumping into a pool. A pool cover is your best option because it is easy to install and will keep things and animals from falling into the water.

Always make sure that the pool cover is well-fastened to prevent small kids from getting trapped underneath.

Putting a fence around the pool is quite a project, but it will keep the kids and pets away from the water as well. It can add an extra layer of security.

However, you need to select the right type of fence. For instance, frogs can easily jump through iron bars. A wooden fence could be the best solution. After all, it looks decorative, and frogs can’t jump through it.

How about a water feature?

Have you ever thought about revamping your pool by adding a water fountain or waterfalls? If you are dealing with frogs, these could be a lifesaver. Insects hate moving water because they can’t lay their eggs in it.

Therefore, a water fountain could play the role of an insect repellent. Bugs are the primary source of food for frogs and toads, so your pool will not be attractive to them anymore.

Summary

Now that you have learned how to get rid of frogs and toads in your yard, it is time to go out and try some of these tricks. Remember that you should use different tactics at the same time for the best results.

If you stick only one method, the chances are a couple of frogs will still be hopping around your yard. Always remember that frogs and toads are not poisonous, so if you see one in your garden or pool, simply pick it up with a long tool and place the frog outside the fence.

In this series of articles, we take a look at different grass species, pair them off against each other, so you can decide which one is best for your yard.

Next up, is fescue grass vs St. Augustine grass.

Both with their advantages and disadvantages – but which one is right for your lawn?

Let’s find out – and stay tuned for a final verdict and FAQ section at the end.

Note – for the purposes of this article, we’ll be talking about fine fescue grass, and not tall fescue.

Key Differences Between Fescue and St Augustine Grass

To the untrained eye, all grass might well look alike – it’s all green, right?

But here are the main differences between fescue and St. Augustine:

However, both grasses do have an excellent shade tolerance, with fescue being the best out of any lawn grass species, and St. Augustine being the best of the warm season grasses.

Fescue Grass

Fescue, or “fine fescue” as it’s often known, is a broad term given to a number of different fescue grasses that are popular in the northern parts of the US, and more temperate climes around the world.

Hard fescue, sheep fescue, chewings fescue, creeping red fescue, and slender creeping red fescue are the main types. You’ll often find they are regularly blended to stand a better chance of survival.

Tall fescue is a different species altogether, and we’ve not included it in this particular article.

Fescue grasses are most commonly found in a mix of other species, such as Kentucky Bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. This is largely due to the fact that it doesn’t do well on its own in full sun.

Perhaps the main reasons it’s so popular is that it germinates quickly and has a very high shade tolerance. Of all the turfgrasses, fescue is also the most low-maintenance variety.

In leafy gardens in cool season areas, fescue can be just the ticket for overseeding or patching up bald spots in your turf. And if you want some more information on how to do that, check out this article on lawn recovery after winter.

Pros of Fescue Grass

Cons of Fescue Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions, and Appearance

The main characteristics of a fescue lawn is that they are the very definition of low maintenance.

They have an excellent drought tolerance, so they don’t require frequent watering, largely thanks to the deep root system that can access underground moisture.

And while they germinate quickly, and you’ll see new grass blades in as little as two weeks, it doesn’t grow so fast as you’ll be mowing the lawn every couple of days (which you shouldn’t be doing anyway).

Fine fescues will go dormant under the stresses of heat, but will re-invigorate when watered or given shade. They are the most shade-tolerant of all lawn grass species.

As for appearance, they’re recognizable for their fine, hair-like aesthetic, with thin blades that are no more than 1/16-inch or less and that taper into a pronounced tip.

It’s a soft grass, which makes it enjoyable as a tactile, roll-around option, ideal in areas where children (and adults) like to play.

Most fescue types look very similar, and they’re often hard to tell apart. But don’t confuse fine fescue with tall fescue here – which is a stiffer grass with not as much give.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Fine fescue isn’t a particularly aggressive species, and it plays well with others. It’s certainly not as assertive and invasive as tall fescue.

As mentioned, you’ll find that fescue grass is often mixed with other species, as it won’t take over and crowd out other variants.

However, it will dominate if its optimum conditions are met, while other grasses needs aren’t being fulfilled – but the same can be said for almost all grass types.

Check out this article when fescue goes up against zoysia – which is known as a more invasive grass species – to really see a difference with temperament.

Planting and Caring for Fescue Grass

Growing fine fescue requires a soil pH level of between 5.0 to 6.5. Pick up a soil testing kit and make sure you have optimum conditions. Add lime if you need to balance it out.

Sow in late summer/early fall, when soil temperatures are the best for growth – consistently just above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, but without the blazing heat and stress of the summer months.

Failing that, spring is also a good time to plant a fescue seed mix.

While fescue is drought tolerant and germinates fast, it will still need regular watering initially – at least until it becomes established.

Plan to water a new fescue-based lawn two to three times a day, for around five minutes at a time. Once it has taken hold, you can cut that right back and let nature do her thing.

Pesticides are not normally required, although you should take care in high moisture areas and ensure you have adequate drainage.

One way to do that, is to know when to aerate your lawn, so follow that link for some more top lawn care advice – no matter the species of grass.

Add a suitable fertilizer around two to three days after your initial seed, so as not to crowd the lawn with too much material right away.

Fescue grasses don’t need to be scalped when it comes to mowing, and you should be looking at trimming your lawn every couple of weeks during spring growing seasons.

But remember – try not to stick to a set schedule, rather checking the height of the grass.

Mow fescue when it gets to around 3-3 1/2 -inches, and to not less than two inches in height. And be sure to keep your mower blade in top condition with one of these lawnmower blade sharpeners.

It is not recommended you use herbicides anywhere near fine fescue as they won’t be able to handle them well. Try this article on the best chemical free weed solutions for your lawn for an alternative.

St Augustine Grass

A popular warm season grass, St. Augustine is best suited to hotter climes, in places such as Florida, Southern California, and the Gulf states.

It thrives in higher temperatures, anywhere from 70-90 degrees Fahrenheit, and is known for its salt tolerance – which makes it an ideal option for such coastal regions.

It’s also known to thrive in sandy soils – which is convenient for sea-front locations.

However, it does need a fair bit of moisture to achieve optimum health, and still doesn’t do at all well in colder temperatures.

There are several types of St. Augustine grass, including palmetto, citrablue, Seville, and floratam.

Floratam is actually a common name used to describe St. Augustine, given that it’s the most popular and widely-used variant.

Pros of St Augustine Grass

Cons of St Augustine Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions, and Appearance

Visit almost any home along the Gulf Coast in the US, and there’s a strong chance the yard will be rocking St. Augustine grass.

Known to withstand salt, heat, and shade, St. Augustine is a prime choice for these warmer coastal regions.

Compared to other warm season grasses such as Bermuda and zoysia, St. Augustine has a higher drought tolerance, and will remain greener for longer in hot conditions.

This article covers zoysia grass vs St. Augustine grass in more detail.

It forms a thick, durable sod – with similar characteristics to that of a dense green carpet. However, such pleasures only come with high maintenance – and St. Augustine can be tricky to keep happy.

The coarseness of the grass also has the ability to crowd out weeds, undesirable plants, and trouble spots. This can be both a blessing and a curse, as you might not notice that St. Augustine actually has a problem.

It’s quick to brown when the first frosts arrive, and slow to green when the winter finally ends. It’s not as tolerant to traffic as you might expect, and is better to look at than it is play upon.

You can identify St. Augustine grass by its attractive blue/green hue, and broad blades with rounded tips, that can be up to 1/4-inch wide.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Compared with fescue, St. Augustine is certainly the more aggressive variant, but when it comes up against something like centipede, there’s not a lot in it.

Although not regarded as invasive, St. Augustine is still an aggressive grower, and it can spread rapidly where planted, providing its needs are being met.

Which is basically a hot climate with plenty of water. So, subtropical, then.

Planting and Caring for Fescue Grass

St. Augustine is planted from sod or plugs only, and rarely – if ever – from seed.

This actually makes it relatively easy to start a lawn with this grass, as plugs of St. Augustine will spread quickly to cover bare spots and form a nice, even surface.

The best time to establish a St. Augustine lawn is in spring and summer. Look for days when the temperature is consistently between 80-100 degrees Fahrenheit.

It requires a soil pH level of 6-6.5 to thrive. If your soil is higher than this, you can add sulfur to balance it out.

You’ll need to measure the area you’re planting in order to figure out how much sod or how many plugs you should order.

Depending on where you’re purchasing from, a pallet of sod will cover around 450 square feet, while a tray of 18 plugs will cover 32 square feet.

Lawn-care experts Scotts offer some practical advice on how best to plant St. Augustine.

And you must always be keeping an eye out for disease, pests, and bugs. Take action if you notice anything out of the ordinary – particularly brown spots or mildew.

St. Augustine will need the application of a suitable fertilizer, and if the soil has a higher pH, then iron supplements might need to be applied.

Look out for yellowing grass spots in St. Augustine – that could mean an iron deficiency. Take a look at this article for more help with yellow grass in general.

And with the grass being susceptible to bugs, you might need to apply a compatible pesticide to prevent any problems from breaking out.

When it comes to mowing, St. Augustine is a thick grass, a full-bodied, broad species that demands to be cut high.

You can feel free to wait until the grass reaches up to 4 1/2 – inches before giving it a trim, and whatever you do – don’t cut it down any lower than 2 1/2 – inches.

And be especially careful when using string trimmers, as you can easily scalp and expose the grass to the hot sun if you’re not careful.

Either way, you’re going to want to make sure your lawnmower is in top condition to handle St. Augustine – so follow that link for some excellent maintenance tips, and be sure to keep your blade sharp.

When it comes to irrigation, St. Augustine needs a lot of attention. While it doesn’t need to be flooded, it does need to be watered often and consistently.

A good sprinkler system is highly advisable – especially if you live in a region with little rainfall. Aim for no more than one inch of water for the week – but not all at once.

And you can check out this excellent, in-depth video for more information on how best to care for St. Augustine grass.

Which is Better?

How long is a piece of string?

Here you have two, completely different grass species for growing in completely different grass seasons. It’s like comparing chalk and cheese.

If you live in the north – fescue is better, if you live in the south, St. Augustine is the way to go.

However, having said all that, for the sheer fact that it is much easier to maintain in the long run, I would say fescue edges it. If I HAD to make a choice.

FAQs

Will Fescue grass take over St Augustine?

No. If anything it’s going to be the other way around, as St Augustine is the more aggressive of the two.

Neither grass is considered invasive, but St Augustine will choke out fescue if and when it comes into contact with it – and conditions are met.

Can you mix Fescue and St Augustine grass?

Given that one’s a warm season grass and the other a cool season species, I wouldn’t advise it. Catering to a lawn that has mixed needs is going to be a real challenge.

Regardless, you’ll need the right equipment to cater for any lawn, and you should take a look at this article on the best lawn-care tools to get started.

How often should you mow fescue?

Fescue doesn’t need to be mowed that often, and given that you should be aiming to take no more than third of the blade tip each time, I would recommend waiting until the fescue is between 3-3 3/4 – inches before breaking out the mower.

And if you’re not sure what time of machine to use, might I suggest you take a look at this article on the different types of lawnmower that are available today?

Where does St Augustine grow best?

St Augustine thrives in warm coastal regions, like Florida and along the southern coast of the United States.

A prominent tropical and subtropical species, you will also find it planted and growing healthily in many countries south of the equator.

It’s known as buffalo turf in Australia and buffalo grass in South Africa.

Is fine fescue good for lawns?

Providing you’re in a cool-season grass region, fine fescue makes an excellent species for lawns – although it’s highly likely it will be mixed with other variants to maximize health.

How often should St Augustine grass be watered?

St. Augustine is a thirsty plant, and it needs regular watering to maintain a healthy appearance.

Approximately 1/2 – inch of water at least twice a week is required.

It certainly doesn’t have the drought tolerance of Bahia, and you can read more about that match up in this article on St. Augustine vs Bahia grass.

Summary

Two of the most popular lawn turf species, fescue grass vs St. Augustine has yielded no clear winner.

That’s probably due to the fact that they’re so different, and thrive in polar opposite regions.

Still, we all have our favorites, and you can tell me yours in the comments below. Since I have a fescue lawn – I’m slightly biased.

And until next time, I wish you the very best of luck with your lawns!

Your once fresh and healthy grass has turned on you, now a brown and yellow color. A lawn full of life, now dry and dead.

How did this happen? Is it fixable? Can yellow grass truly become green once again?

Regardless of whether you have several small yellow patches, or an endless sea of yellow plaguing your lawn, here are the most essential tips and tricks on how to fix yellow grass.

You might be scratching your head… how did this happen?

Let’s find out.

Reasons Behind Yellow Grass

What causes yellow grass?

Weather and Temperature

Healthy grass is full of moisture. When the weather is hot and dry, especially during the summer months, grass will sometimes become yellow due to dryness.

High temperatures and excessive exposure to sunlight can cause patches of discoloration to take over your once fresh lawn.

Also, when temperatures fluctuate during certain times of year, like fall and spring, grass becomes more vulnerable to disease, which can exacerbate the yellow or brown color.

Seasonal Changes

The changing seasons can prove to be problematic for your lawn. Long periods of rain as spring arrives can lead to overwatering.

In addition, certain types of grass fare better during certain times of the year.

For example, St. Augustine grass grows best in warmer climates, and during the colder months it often will die and turn into a brown color.

It’s also important to note that cutting your lawn too short past the spring season can cause brown or discolored grass.

Fertilization

Fertilizing your lawn provides it with the necessary minerals and nutrients for healthy grass to grow.

However, if done improperly, fertilization can have the opposite effect.

If your grass becomes overfertilized, by either applying too much in one area or by overlapping the same areas, this can cause chemical burns, which will ultimately kill the grass.

If too little fertilizer is used, the grass will not have the necessary nutrients to grow properly.

Nitrogen & Iron

The levels of both nitrogen and iron can affect the way grass grows.

If your lawn’s soil is nitrogen deficient, this essentially stunts the growth of grass.

On the other hand, too much nitrogen will promote dead grass. Animal urine or over-applying fertilizer can cause nitrogen levels to rise, and this will burn through the root system of the grass, depriving it of nutrients and water.

Similarly, iron deficiency makes it more difficult for the grass to flourish. In spring, long periods of rain can cause more grass to grow than the amount of nutrients available, causing the yellow grass as the summer months approach.

Soil Compaction

Compaction of the soil, or when the soil is tightly packed together, can inhibit the growth of grass.

When the soil is too tightly packed, the roots are unable to soak in the necessary supplements for growth.

Compaction most often occurs following the winter season, after layers of snow have pushed the dirt together.

Construction vehicles or even running your lawnmower in the same mowing pattern can cause compaction. It can also occur in areas of heavy foot traffic, so be aware of who is stepping on your grass!

Pests & Fungus

Certain insects and pests could be the reason behind your yellowing grass. They often feed on and cause the grass to die.

Pests typically appear as the temperatures get warmer. Likewise, a yellow lawn often signals the presence of fungus or disease.

Fungi can invade your lawn, causing the sea of yellow to appear. Fungi like snow mold or fairy rings will eat the healthy bacteria that helps the grass grow, and in extreme cases, fungi will invade and actually take over the area where grass was once growing.

Watering

Finding the perfect balance of watering for your lawn can be difficult. On the one hand, under-watering causes the grass to dry out and die.

On the other hand, over-watering will drown the grass’s root system, and deprive the grass of necessary oxygen and other nutrients.

It will also cause the roots to grow closer to the surface of the soil, leaving more susceptibility to fungus or pests.

Mowing

Your mower can have more impact on your lawn than just cutting it. Running your mower over in the same patterns can cause soil compaction.

Not only this but if your mower blades are dull, this can cause the grass to yellow. Dull blades prevent a clean cut, which when left uneven, can leave the grass more vulnerable to diseases.

Now that you know all of the different issues that may be torturing your lawn, it’s time to identify the problem.

Identifying the Reason Your Grass is Turning Yellow

Here are some indicators and things to look for when identifying the reason your grass is turning yellow:

Not sure where to begin?

Start here.

After reviewing this list, you have some idea of what is causing the yellow plague on your lawn.

Now it’s time to get down and dirty, and treat the problem to restore your grass. Fear not, it is indeed possible for yellow grass to be restored.

How to Turn Yellow Grass Green Again?

Feeling like you need a magic wand? Or perhaps a time machine? Don’t worry. Following these steps will guarantee returning green grass to your lawn.

Watering

It’s important to strike a balance between over and under-watering your lawn. Your lawn needs to be watered only when the top layer of soil is noticeably dry.

Watering your grass deeply but infrequently is key for green growth.

Also, be sure to identify the type of soil your grass is growing in. Clay soil will hold more water, while sandy soil will not.

To find more information and products that will make watering your lawn easier, visit this article – “Best Expandable Garden Hoses for Easier Watering!”

Pest and Fungus Control

The exact steps for pest control often depends on the exact type of pest, but there are some general steps to eradicate the problem.

Insecticide is one of the most common ways to alleviate pests and other insects. Be aware of the type and chemical content of the insecticide you are applying.

To treat fungus, there are several preventative measures as well as action steps to take. For prevention, it is best to keep your lawn well-maintained.

Watering in the early morning hours is beneficial, as it allows the moisture to spread throughout the day, which will help combat disease.

Keeping your lawn mowed, aerated, and watered will help combat any fungi. If you find yourself facing a persistent problem, you may need to apply a fungicide to your lawn.

Fertilization

Fertilizing your lawn can help balance the soil and make sure your grass’s roots have the right nutrients and minerals for maximum growth.

If iron or nitrogen deficiencies are present in your soil, applying fertilizer can rebalance its contents. The best way to apply fertilizer is to use a spreader.

This will ensure that the fertilizer is distributed evenly, and won’t leave any patches of soil untreated. The most essential step in applying fertilizer is to water the grass deeply after application.

Watering will allow for the chemicals in the fertilizer to reach the grass roots, instead of sitting on top and burning the grass blades, creating more yellow patches.

Compaction

Soil compaction can cause yellow spots by putting pressure on the root system of the grass and depriving it of the necessary nutrients.

The best way to fix compaction is to loosen the soil, either by raking your lawn by hand or using an aerator.

With yellow grass, you’ll want to aerate fairly aggressively. The grass is already dead, so don’t worry about any damage or harm. Aerate when the soil is moist, and finish the job by reseeding the affected areas.

Mowing

If you notice your grass turning yellow after cutting the lawn, your mower might be causing the discoloration.

This is an easy fix. Make sure the blades on your mower are sharpened, in order to mow the grass with a clean cut.

If you have a decent amount of discolored grass, consider putting your mower on a slightly lower setting, to allow green grass to replace the yellow.

However, make sure the setting is not too low. Constant short cuts can worsen the discoloring.

Other Tips

Some other important things to consider when restoring your yellow lawn include the surrounding plants.

If your lawn is mostly covered by trees, a lack of sunlight could be turning your grass yellow, so you might consider cutting trees down.

Also, be sure to rake or blow any leftover grass clippings from mowing, or fallen leaves. Leftover materials sitting on the grass will turn it yellow.

It is also important to monitor the drainage of your lawn. If puddles or pools of water sit on the grass, this will prevent necessary oxygen and nutrients from getting to the roots, and the grass will become yellow.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long will it take for my grass to become green again?

Grass growth in general is a gradual process, so exact changes in color may be difficult to observe. If you follow all of the necessary steps the correct way, and the weather conditions are fair, your grass should start to grow green within one to two weeks.

How often should I be watering my grass to turn it green?

The recommended about of watering varies, depending on rain frequency and temperature. Your only need to water your lawn if the top layer of soil is noticeably dry.

A deep, infrequent watering of usually one to two times per week in the summer months is recommended.

How do I identify the type of grass growing in my lawn?

First, do some research to find out which grasses most commonly grow within your area or region. Some other things to look for when identifying the type of grass are blade shape, color and texture.

What kind of insecticide should I use to combat any pests or insects in my grass?

The exact type of insecticide necessary for your lawn depends on the exact type of pest you want to eradicate.

Regardless of the insecticide, it is essential to make note of the chemicals you are applying to your grass.

Organic insecticides are recommended to lower the risk of killing any helpful insects in the ecosystem of your lawn.

What if I can’t get rid of my yellow grass?

If you feel like you have tried everything you possibly could to alleviate any problems with your grass, you may want to consider reseeding or replacing any yellow patches with sod.

Summary

In conclusion, if you are faced with a sea of yellow grass, don’t worry.

There are plenty of measures you can take to prevent, as well as actively treat the problems causing any grass discoloration.

Following the steps in this article will guarantee an improvement in your grass. Be sure to visit the links included for any additional information.

Comment down below any personal tips or insight about your own experience of how to fix yellow grass!

Therefore, it must break down and fertilize the grass, right?

Wrong!

Leaving dog poop on the lawn is never a good idea.

I’m going to tell you why and give you some ideas for what to do instead.

So if you’re looking for ways to grow a healthy lawn while continuing a loving relationship with your canine friend, you’re in the right place!

Quick Read

Is Dog Poop Bad for Your Lawn?

It’s surprisingly common to wonder: Is dog poop bad for grass?

The short answer is yes. Always.

There is no dancing around it. There are no justifications for leaving dog poo on your lawn (or anywhere for that matter). It is always bad and it should always be picked up.

But why is it bad?

Another short answer – dog poop kills grass.

It’s easy to think that since other animal manure is so good for the garden, doggie poop must be too.

And while that would be handy, unfortunately, it’s not the case.

The main consideration is what each animal eats and how that relates to the amount of nitrogen in its waste.

Herbivores that eat exclusively plants produce feces that are relatively low in nitrogen, or at least well balanced with other nutrients, and can be decomposed quickly.

Dogs, on the other hand, are often fed very high protein diets of predominantly meat. This results in waste that is very high in nitrogen and takes a long time to break down (up to a year!).

And, while nitrogen is an important nutrient for plant growth, too much actually causes nitrogen burn, and excessive nitrogen burn kills grass.

This means that dog poop left on the lawn will result in dead spots.

So if you’re still wondering, does dog poop fertilize grass? The answer is, not in a way that is healthy or helpful.

But the other important consideration is all of the diseases and parasites that can be present in dog poop. The EPA has even labeled dog poop as a toxic waste because of this!

For example, did you know that dog poop can contain:

And, did you know that simply touching the soil and then eating a snack can be enough for you or your children to contract any one of these diseases? Gross, right?

But these diseases can spread even further, such as into local waterways, making nearby lakes and rivers unsafe to swim in. It can even contaminate local drinking water supplies.

This means that even if mowing over your dog’s poop (also gross!) helps to prevent nitrogen burn, what it’s also doing is spreading all those potential diseases around your yard.

Luckily, it is easy to prevent this from happening. Keep reading to find out your options.

How to Grow a Healthy Lawn without Getting Rid of Your Dog

The easiest way to manage the risks of dog poop on your lawn is to be disciplined about picking it up straight away.

The most environmentally friendly way of disposing of dog poop is then to transfer it to a kind of doggie doo septic tank that you can easily build in your yard. This video can show you how.

But back to your lawn.

If you know that picking up dog poop as soon as your pooch has done its business is not something you’re going to manage, then make life easier for yourself and designate a specific toilet area in your yard.

We often train our pets to toilet on the grass, but if they toilet instead on a designated gravel or stone area, then it’s not such a problem if the poop isn’t picked up straight away (at least as far as your lawn is concerned – it should still be picked up as soon as possible to prevent pollution of the surrounding environment).

My lawn already has yellow patches – is it too late?

If you have yellow patches that have started to appear from dog waste that has sat for too long, your next course of action is to water those patches well to dilute the nitrogen that is concentrated there.

If the grass has already started to turn yellow, it may not survive and you may have to reseed those patches.

But (provided you live in a region with plenty of water and no restrictions in place) even if you’ve left a poop on the lawn for a few days and the grass is not yet yellow, giving that spot a dousing with the watering can will help it to recover and prevent yellowing.

If you do have to reseed any dead patches, be sure to sprinkle some agricultural lime to neutralize the nitrogen left behind before adding some fresh top soil and the grass seeds.

If you’re wondering whether there may be some other causes to the yellow patches on your lawn, check out my article on common lawn problems to rule them out.

What About Dog Pee?

Good question!

Dog pee, though not quite as harmful for the surrounding environment as poop, can actually wreak more havoc on your lawn.

While dog poop can be picked up quickly, pee is absorbed into the ground instantly and can’t be contained.

The best way to minimize the impact of dog urine on your lawn is actually the same as for poop. Create a designated gravel area and train your dog to pee there instead of on the lawn. If that isn’t possible, the watering can needs to follow your dog when they go outside to relieve themselves.

In saying that, there is one alternative course of action that is pee-specific, and that is using ‘dog rocks’ in your dog’s water bowl.

Dog rocks are designed to be totally safe for your pet while reducing the concentration of nitrogen in their pee.

On the same note, it’s also helpful to make sure your dog has plenty of access to fresh water and isn’t dehydrated as this would also result in more concentrated pee.

A Couple of Other Options

We’ve talked about diluting your pet’s waste residue with water, designating a grass-free area for their toileting, and building a doggie-doo septic tank. But there are a couple more options worth considering if you’re a dedicated doggie-mum (or dad).

First, consider the grass type that you have growing in your lawn.

Different grass seed varieties are well suited to different climates and water availability, but did you know that some grasses tolerate dog waste better than others?

Perennial ryegrass, Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass tolerate the high concentrations of nitrogen that come with dog waste better than other species.

Grass that is a little longer will also have an easier time coping with concentrated nitrogen, so do your lawn a favor and set that mower a little higher.

Last but not least, do you need a lawn?

You may balk at this suggestion, and that’s understandable, since we’ve grown up in a pretty lawn-obsessed society. However, times are changing and more and more people are considering grass-free yards. Take a read of this article if you’re interested in checking out the alternatives.

If you’re new to caring for a lawn, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand and have a read this article.

Summary

I hope you’ve found this article useful and are now a converted dog poop picker upper!

After all, it comes with the territory, right? No one has a baby thinking they can get away without changing diapers!

There is no benefit to your grass or the surrounding environment if you leave your dog’s poop on the lawn. It takes a looooong time to break down, and causes pollution in the meantime.

Picking up the poop immediately and building a doggie septic tank to dispose of it is the best option for your lawn and the surrounding environment.

Thank you for reading and feel free to share this article with your fellow dog lovers!

You might even have treated the turf with the best non-toxic weed killers for a healthy lawn without using chemicals.

But if the edges are ragged, unsightly, and overgrown – then you’ve still got some work to do.

That’s where the best gas lawn edgers come in, designed to give your green space the razor-sharp, clean-cut edge it deserves – without breaking your back.

Read on to discover which model is right for you. A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow the reviews.

Be the envy of your neighbors with a lawn edge you could set a watch to.

TOP 7 Best Gas Lawn Edgers in 2026

Southland SWLE0799 Gas Lawn Edger

Starting us off is this 79 cc walk-behind gas edger from US company Southland. Fully CARB compliant and EPA certified, this machine is offered at the more budget-friendly end of the scale, but is far from a cheap piece of equipment.

It offers a manual recoil easy start with fuel delivery system, and five adjustable depth positions up to 2.5-inches, while the blade can be angled plus or minus 15 degrees for bevel capabilities.

The triangular, three-point blade will make short work of a lawn edge, giving you a crisp, clean finish, and it has the ability to straddle the curbside if you’re edging near the roadway.

Pros

Cons

Troy-Bilt Gas Walk-Behind Edger

Homedepot.com

Up next, we have a similar model with this 30 cc, four-cycle walk-behind gas edger from Troy-Bilt.

Offering a little more power, you still have the bonus of not requiring mixing gas and oil with the four-stroke engine – which also produces less noise and is more fuel-efficient than a two-stroke.

The spring-assisted technology and Prime & Go, two-step start ensures fast and easy starts, powering a nine-inch, dual-tipped steel blade that can penetrate to a depth of 1.75-inches.

A fully-molded, ergonomic handle offers comfortable, controlled use, which can be folded to maximize storage space.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman CMXGKAME30A Gas Lawn Edger

US company Craftsman manufactures some world-class power tools at affordable prices, and this 30 cc, four-cycle lawn edger is just another example of that mid-range workmanship.

Offering greater power with less vibration and no fuel mixing, it has an easy, two-step start which ensures a simple prime and pull will get you going. With mounted throttle controls on the ergonomic handle, the machine is intuitive to use and easy to maneuver.

The heavy-duty steel blade is nine-inches in size, steel-tipped, and offers six different cutting heights up to 1.75-inches.

Pros

Cons

Echo PAS-225VP Trimmer and Edger Kit

Now, I might be cheating a little with this entry, as it’s not strictly a dedicated lawn edger.

Manufactured by reputable power tool company Echo, who are known for their excellent backpack leaf blowers (among many other things), this is a trimmer and edger combo, with two, interchangeable heads for tackling both jobs.

The tool-less coupling makes switching them out easy and fast, so you don’t lose time and effort working in the yard, and the 21 cc engine with easy-start technology gives you plenty of power for each attachment.

The edger is clog-resistant, with an open face metal guard for protection, and the comfortable, padded handles reduce user fatigue.

Pros

Cons

Echo Gas 2-Stroke Cycle Edger

Homedepot.com

Hot on the heels of the previous Echo, we have another version here, this time a straight-shaft, 25.4cc two-stroke edger that offers power, durability, and maneuverability for quality results around your property.

A contoured aluminum debris shield with open face reduces clogging, and a 2:1 gear reduction allows you to make short work of overgrown grass and tough sections on the lawn edge.

With a balanced weight-to-power ratio, you can be sure of the ability to tackle any edging job without tiring too early. There’s a lot to like here, a hand-held gas lawn edgers that a professional would thank you for.

Pros

Cons

McLane Gas Powered Lawn Edger

Now we seriously move into the realms of professional-grade lawn edgers, with this beast of a machine from McLane.

Backed by a Briggs and Stratton engine, (a company that also makes some seriously badass snowblowers), this offers 3.5 horses of power to tear into any lawn and edge it like a boss.

The nine-inch steel blade can chop at any angle, vertical and horizontal, while the heavy-duty, seven-inch wheels provide unbeatable stability, and the option to easily ride curbs for perfect results every time.

Probably the best four-cycle gas lawn edger available at the moment, if you want a razor-sharp finish that looks like it was done by a pro – then look no further.

Pros

Cons

Brown Products Edge Master Gas Edger

Homedepot.com

It’s likely overkill for most residential properties, but this Brown Products Edge Master is on another level for commercial-grade edging jobs.

And for good reason, as it boasts a Honda engine that can handle industrial-size workloads and the heavy-duty, all-steel construction for the ultimate in durability and performance.

A dual-purpose tensioner lever engages the blade and adjusts depth, offering the ability to tackle a maximum curb height of ten inches. The double Kevlar belt drive system will never let you down, nor will the 10-gauge Domex steel blade.

Cut to a depth of 2.5-inches if you so choose, and do it with power, precision, and aplomb.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Gas Powered Lawn Edger

There are several factors you should consider before purchasing a new gas-powered lawn edger, so check out the buyer’s guide below for extra tips and advice.

Gas vs Electric

Although this article covers gas-powered machines, it’s worth adding a note on electric edgers too (which we will no doubt cover in full at a later date).

Electric edgers are more suitable for smaller properties, whereas gas machines have been clearly designed with commercial-grade jobs in mind.

If you’re trying to decide between the two, have a think about the size of your property, and in particular the distance you need to cover to achieve lawn edge perfection.

While gas-powered lawn edgers are more expensive, louder, with fuel emissions and maintenance costs, they’re simply unbeatable for the freedom and power you need to cover larger areas.

For a pro finish, you need to use what the pros use.

Two-Cycle vs Four Cycle

As with any gas-powered engine, it comes as either a two-cycle or a four-cycle version.

I won’t go into too much detail about the difference between the technology, but a little about the advantages and disadvantages of each.

A two-cycle engine offers more power but at the expense of noise and higher fuel emissions.

They also have the significant disadvantage of requiring a mix of oil and gas to run, which can be tricky to get right for the uninitiated/first-timers and can add up running costs over time.

Four-cycle engines are more reliable and last longer, although they have more moving parts and will require more maintenance over time.

This also makes them much heavier, which is why for things like the best gas-powered hedge trimmers, you’ll find two-stroke machines are king.

However, four-cycle engines are quieter, and superior in fuel efficiency, as well as offering more overall torque.

The type you choose depends entirely on your personal preferences and your needs.

Note that cycle and stroke are the same thing – just different terms depending on where you come from.

Garden/Yard Size/Type of Job

The engines in all the edgers above come in a variety of sizes – which in turn denotes just how much power the machine is capable of offering.

Obviously, the larger and more powerful the engine, the more capable it is of tackling the real heavy-duty jobs.

Think about the size of your garden and the kind of work you require an edger to do. This should give you an indication on how powerful you need the machine to be.

Or, if you need a gas machine at all.

Types of Lawn Edger

You’ll notice two distinct types of edger in the reviews above – a hand-held variety, and a walk-behind version.

Again, like the size of the engine, choosing the right one depends on the size and type of the job you need it to do.

For commercial-sized workloads, with long, straight edges, it’s probably best to lean towards a walk-behind edger.

Although heavier, the ground is taking the weight and you won’t be nearly as fatigued as if you were carrying the thing.

For small to medium-sized tasks, a hand-held machine might be more preferable. They also have a significant advantage of being highly maneuverable and are more adept at edging curves, or around delicate areas such as flower beds.

However, walk-behind models are more suitable against curbsides, and offer more stability for straddling the concrete and the turf edge for a cleaner, neater cut.

And don’t discount the edgers that can be used with multiple attachments. A lot of string trimmers these days can be switched out and an edger head put in place – so you get a multi-use tool and more bang-to-buck versatility.

Finally, think about storage – a walk-behind machine is going to take up a lot of space in the garage. You certainly can’t hang one on the wall, that’s for sure.

Cost

When it comes to gas-powered machines, they all come at various price points, some affordable, others not so affordable.

For some reason, gas-powered lawn edgers aren’t cheap, and they can start quite pricey even at the “budget” end of the scale.

With that in mind, you need to be pretty serious about edging to pick one up. Buy the best you can afford – so long as it’s suitable for the size and type of job you’re buying it for.

FAQ

Do I need a gas lawn edger?

This depends on the size of your property, or how much effort you’re willing to put into edging, and how important edging is to you in the first place.

Many homeowners aren’t concerned with how the edge of the lawn looks, and mowing will suffice, with a possible trim as a more than suitable finish.

But if it bothers you that your lawn doesn’t look polished, and you have a medium to large-sized garden, then a gas-powered edger is going to get you professional results and is well worth considering.

Alternatively, you could use a pair of these quality garden shears if you’d prefer to trim the grass by hand, or if you already have a well-established lawn edge.

What is the best gas lawn edger?

Again, this depends on the type and size of the job you need to do. It’s subjective and impossible to pick out one edger above the rest unless you completely understand your own environment.

In short, I’d use a hand-held edger for smaller properties, around delicate areas, or if you have curved edges that need maintaining.

Walk-behind edgers are better for large, straight edging jobs, with an emphasis on commercial-grade work.

How much is a gas-powered edger?

Gas-powered edgers are far more expensive than their electric counterparts and can be priced from anywhere between $190 to well over $1000.

As I mentioned previously, you need to be pretty serious about power edging if you’re going to go down this road.

What is the easiest lawn edger to use?

Both types of edgers have their advantages and disadvantages when it comes to ease of use. A handheld machine is easy to use right off the bat but can get cumbersome and tiring after a while.

With a walk-behind version, the ground takes the weight, but they can be more tricky to maneuver.

For the most part, though, edgers aren’t the most difficult power tool to use, so long as you have a modicum of common sense, they’re all pretty straightforward, anyway.

Having said that, I would look at the four-stroke versions, as you don’t need to fiddle about mixing oil and gas, and you can get up and running almost right out of the box.

How often should you edge your lawn?

Once a year is the professional advice, and do it towards the end of June, as you’ll find the results stay sharper for longer.

Having said that, if you feel your garden is trying to ruin all your hard work, feel free to edge whenever you think it’s required.

Some gardeners edge every week, while others once a month.  It all depends on how much effort and time you’re willing to put into the practice.

You don’t NEED to cut a new edge every week, that’s for sure – particularly if you’ve done a good job with a decent edger the first time.

But it’s certainly worth giving it a trim every time you mow the lawn (which is different from edging). Find out if a curved or straight trimmer is right for you by following that link.

How do I use a lawn edger?

Edging a lawn with a gas edger isn’t the most complex garden chore you’ll ever do, but it’s worth brushing up on a few tips and tricks to get it right – especially for noobs.

Check out the video below for an informative visual guide.

Is it better to edge or mow first?

It’s always a topic of discussion. In what order should you mow, weed, and edge a lawn?

There’s a saying in the professional community that goes something like this:

Edge, mow, trim, blow.

But that can be interchangeable depending on your lawn, the season, and the conditions. Or, just how you prefer to do it with a tried and tested method.

Some gardeners swap around each stage, some might repeat a stage on more than one occasion.

It’s also worth using one of these pet safe weed killers as well as a weed whacker – to properly destroy nuisance vegetation down to the root, so they won’t come back. Bonus points for being non-toxic and safe around children and animals.

I would suggest trying out each stage for yourself and see what works for you. It’s an interesting and much-debated topic – let me know your garden maintenance regimen in the comments.

How deep should I edge my lawn?

You shouldn’t be going much deeper than two-inches maximum.

Most residential edgers will not cut deeper than that, anyway.

You still need to be aware of buried pipes and cables, and any other obstacles that might be close to the surface.

It’s worth doing a check around the perimeter before getting started, as you don’t want to hit any snags when you’re in full swing.

What’s the difference between an edger and a trimmer?

Glad you asked. For a full, in-depth answer to this very sensible question (as the two are often confused) please, head on over to this article on the difference between an edger and a trimmer.

And why it’s a good idea to have both in your arsenal.

Can I edge wet grass?

Can you edge after rain? This is a common question and the answer is – yes, but it’s not a good idea.

Edging damp or dry-ish grass is feasible, as you’ll get a nice clean edge and the blade will cut the turf easily.

Anything more than that, and you’re risking clogging up the machine, with mud and filth being spread everywhere, and one hell of a cleanup operation as a result.

If you really must, don’t run the edger too deep – stay on the surface as much as possible and you’ll minimize the amount of material you’ll be slinging all over the yard.

Do I need to wear safety gear with an edger?

As with all garden power tools, it’s well worth donning some protective gear during operation.

Gas-powered edgers are noisy things, so make sure you cover those ears.

That blade is spinning fast, isn’t it? Wear long-sleeved clothing and pants, and goggles over the eyes. You never know when or what debris might be launched violently into the air.

And don’t forget a suitable pair of gardening gloves to prevent blistering. Honestly, you won’t know what you did without them.

Summary

Edging your green space can make the difference between a good lawn, and a great one.

And if you have a medium to large-sized property, then choosing the best gas lawn edger is the way to go.

Personally, I like the look of the echo products, as they’re highly rated, affordable, and perfect for the size of my plot.

Let me know which edger you would choose and why.

Happy edging!

Is it good to water grass after mowing?

The answer is it all depends on whether your lawn needs it. If you recently watered your lawn or it rained, it only needs a trim. If you haven’t watered your yard in a while and it hasn’t rained, you can water it after mowing.

Sometimes it isn’t a good idea to water your lawn after mowing as the ideal watering and mowing times can conflict.

Let’s explore everything about watering lawn after mowing to help you maintain a beautiful yard.

Should I Water My Lawn After Mowing?

While you can water the lawn after cutting the grass, it’s not always advisable. Giving your grass a thorough soaking can be a healthy practice, but only if your lawn needs a drink.

Here’s the deal:

The most important thing is to know whether or not your lawn needs watering and to schedule mowing and watering appropriately. You don’t drink water when you’re not thirsty, and this should also apply to your yard.

What are Situations When You Should do it and When Absolutely Not?

While you can water your lawn safely after mowing whenever it needs moisture, you should prepare for this properly.

Why is this important?

There are certain situations and times of day when watering the lawn after mowing can do more harm than good. Here are some cases when you should not water your lawn after mowing and why:

Mowing Late in the Afternoon

During the late afternoon or night, temperatures are low, and your grass may not absorb moisture or dry out properly.

Any excess water will not evaporate but will sit on the grass and encourage turf diseases or fungal growth like mildew or mold that can ruin your lawn.

If you mow late in the evening, it’s best to put off watering until morning or another day.

Mowing in the Middle of a Hot Day

If you mow in the middle of a hot summer day, it’s best not to water your lawn immediately after.

Water will evaporate from the landscape quickly before getting absorbed by the grass, meaning your lawn will not hydrate properly. You may end up wasting a lot of water without any benefit.

You Watered Your Lawn Recently

You don’t need to water the lawn after mowing if you’ve been following a regular watering schedule and your lawn hasn’t dried up.

A damp or overwatered lawn can lead to fungal problems and shallow roots. Allowing the sold to dry slightly promotes a deeper and more robust root system.

So, when should you water your lawn?

The best time for watering lawn after mowing is early in the morning. Morning times between 6 and 8 am are ideal for mowing and watering your lawn.

You can schedule to start your day by mowing the lawn and watering immediately after, or you can mow the previous evening and wake up to water your lawn.

Here’s why:

In the early morning, water lost to the atmosphere by evaporation is negligible and disruption of the water pattern from the wind is low.

It allows the lawn to soak up enough water before the heat sets in, and it also gets to dry off gradually, reducing the chances of diseases that require extended periods of leaf moisture.

What are Signs that the Lawn Needs Watering?

In addition to the above rules on the ideal time to water your lawn after mowing, there are a few things you can look out for to determine whether your lawn needs watering.

These include:

Stress Test

Stress testing your lawn with footprints can help you judge whether your lawn needs watering. If you walk on your lawn and grass blades bounce back right away, you don’t need to water. Healthy and watered grass should spring back like well-moisturized hair and return to its rigid upright shape.

However, if footprints remain on the lawn for a while, the grass is dehydrated and could do with some water. You can quickly assess your lawn’s watering needs by watching your footsteps as you mow the lawn.

The Screwdriver Test

A thin screwdriver pushed into the ground should give you a quick assessment of the moisture condition of your lawn. Simply find a 6-7 inch screwdriver and try to push it into the ground.

If it quickly penetrates the soil, it has sufficient water and doesn’t need watering, but if it’s challenging to push or doesn’t go in at all, you need to water your lawn.

The screwdriver test can also help you determine where watering is needed by pushing it in various locations on your lawn. Adequate soil moisture of around six to eight inches is sufficient to maintain a healthy lawn.

Grass Color

Looking at the color of your grass can also help you determine whether the lawn needs some water. Although it can be a bit challenging to find subtle differences, it’s entirely possible.

Healthy grass is bright green and vibrant, but thirsty grass will look slightly different. Look out for a faded color like dull bluish green.

Lawn Gaps

The soil in your lawn can shrink when dry, indicating that you need to give it some water. Think of it as a sponge that contracts when dry and becomes soft and squishy when given excessive water.

Check around the edges of your lawn and look for gaps between the lawn and the patio, driveway, or pathway. A well-hydrated lawn will not have any gaps, but if they’re present, you need to turn on the hose and give it a good watering.

Can I Water the Lawn Before Mowing?

No. Watering your lawn before is completely inadvisable, similar to mowing during or right after it rains.

Why does this matter?

Wet grass blades can stick together and get caught in your mower. When grass clippings clamp and stick together on the mowing deck, mowing becomes much more challenging and can even damage your mower. It can clog your mower and leave chunks of grass lumps all over the lawn.

Chunks of grass can be unattractive and smother growing grass beneath them or spread weeds and diseases throughout the yard.

The best time to mow your lawn is when it’s dry.

How Often Should I Water My Lawn?

Various things will influence the amount of water your grass needs and how often you should water it. These include the season or weather, soil type, and grass type.

Your lawn will need more water in the summer or warmer seasons but less water in the cooler seasons. Deep watering in the morning is advisable in the hotter seasons to avoid dryness and allow your lawn to survive the scorching sun.

Ensure you gauge the rain in the cooler seasons to determine how much water the grass has received and whether it’s sufficiently hydrated. You can skip a few watering sessions with sufficient rainfall to avoid excessive watering.

You should generally water your lawn less frequently but for extended periods. Watering 2-3 times a week for 30 to 60 minutes is better than watering six times a week for 15 minutes.

Why does this matter?

Such deep watering allows deep and sturdier roots to grow. It also prepares your lawn for drought conditions and makes it more tolerant by allowing water to reach around six inches below the ground level.

A proper monthly lawn care schedule can help you know when and how often to water, fertilize, mow, seed, and remove pests, diseases, and weeds.

How Can I Water My Lawn Easily After Mowing?

Having the proper tools can help make watering your lawn an easy and enjoyable job. Expandable hoses are all the rage today among gardening enthusiasts thanks to their various advantages.

They weigh less than traditional garden hoses and can expand up to three times their average size, so you don’t have to worry about having a large lawn. Expandable hoses can also shrink when not in use, making them easy to store and never get tangled or twisted.

You can easily attach an expandable hose to almost any water outlet, including sprinklers, provided you have the correct connector. There’s a great selection of expandable hoses to choose from, and they’re generally inexpensive, costing anywhere between $20 and $60.

It can help you water your lawn easily after mowing and do other jobs around your property.

Summary

Deciding when to mow and water your lawn can be tricky, but it’s best to mow dry grass and water it after trimming. Always water your lawn in the early morning to allow it to absorb water sufficiently and dry out during the day.

If you have any experience with watering lawn after mowing, feel free to share your insights or thoughts in the comments!