You’ve tried just about everything to destroy nuisance weeds and unwanted vegetation from your property, but it just doesn’t know when it’s beat.

It’s hunkered down and dug in like an Alabama tick.

And while you’ve shed blood, sweat, and tears on this mission, it’s time you radioed in for the big guns.

Enter the best commercial weed killers of 2026.

You’re not messing around anymore – the kid gloves are off. Reinforcements are about to rain liquid death down on your adversaries.

Read on to discover the most potent weed killers available on the market for residential use with a buyer’s guide thrown in as back up.

I love the smell of a dead weed in the morning.

TOP 13 Best Commercial Weed Killers 2026

Compare-N-Save Grass And Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Starting us off on our march towards freedom from weeds, is this budget-friendly herbicide concentrate from Compare N Save. Never too far away from “the best” reviews, this product has proven time and again that it can literally be compared to the brand names and still provide similar results.

Made with a high 41% glyphosate solution, it’s designed for use on patios, walkways, fence lines, and around the garden to give you visible results within two to four days.

This one-gallon container will mix up to 85 gallons of spray solution that can treat around 25,000 square feet. If you need a weed killer that will get the job done for just a bit more than a handful of loose change – this option is hard to beat.

Pros

Cons

Crossbow Concentrate Brush and Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Another commercial herbicide offered at an excellent price point, this option is a concentrated brush and weed killer for use anywhere you need to be completely clear of undesirable plant life. It’s a decent alternative to using a glyphosate solution, made with the active ingredient of 2,4-D acid.

Designed to control unwanted trees and brush, it will also tackle most broadleaf weeds across a range of non-crop areas and industrial sites.

Manufacturer Southern Ag is a reputable company when it comes to making high-quality herbicide, and this formula is no exception. It’s also a selective herbicide, having little effect on grasses if used correctly.

Pros

Cons

Sedge Ender Concentrate

This is a lawn-friendly weed killer that has been specifically designed to target sedge grasses and other nuisance lawn weeds. It will destroy yellow nutsedge and crabgrass, as well as numerous other pesky invaders, for use on warm and cool-season grasses.

Nutsedge is a particular nuisance and a troublesome adversary and often needs a dedicated herbicide to ensure it is kept at bay. With this product, Bonide offer results within a couple of days, so long as you use them as directed, and do your best to keep it away from desirable plants – even though it is a selective weed killer.

They also have some great options for killing Bermuda grass, so follow that link if you need some help with that troublesome menace.

Pros

Cons

Natural Armor Weed and Grass Killer

In an industry that’s often awash with harsh chemicals and formulas, it’s always nice to offer a milder option – especially if you’re looking for a strong weed killer and you have children and/or pets.

This offering from Natural Armour is 100% glyphosate free, made from all-natural ingredients to treat over 250 species of weeds and grass anywhere on your property. There’s no need to dilute or mix – you simply spray directly on to the plants and let the formula work its magic.

Probably the best commercial organic weed killer available.

Pros

Cons

Barren Weed Killer & Soil Sterilant

EPA registered, this non-selective herbicide is Barren by name and barren by nature.

Created to eliminate any vegetation it comes into contact with, the total kill formula takes no prisoners, and is designed for use around buildings, storage yards, and other industrial sites.

A soil sterilant, it offers long-lasting protection against weeds returning, and is recommended only for use on non-cropland areas and away from residential zones.

Extremely potent and powerful, I would advise great care when using this commercial weed killer – certainly nowhere near the prized roses.

Pros

Cons

Avenger Organic Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

Designed for organic use, this concentrated herbicide is a post-emergent weed killer and safe to use around people and pets.

EPA approved, the non-toxic formula works in cool and cloudy conditions, and will not stain concrete, brick, or pavement patio finishes. You’ll see visible results inside two hours, and spray areas can be replanted not long after.

Made from citrus fruits, it has a pleasant aroma, and is capable of tackling most nuisance weeds around the home and garden.

This is a great option if you have large areas to cover, and you want to replant or use the soil in some way after the weeds have been eradicated.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

Here we have a classic example of a commercial total vegetation control product, that incorporates a powerful weed killer and preventer.

A persistent herbicide, RM43 will not only destroy all vegetation it comes into contact with, but it will keep any treated site weed-free for up to one year.

You’re guaranteed excellent coverage, too, as one gallon is capable of 17,297 square feet of weed control.

Ideal for use along fence rows, and around farm buildings and barns, this is an industrial-style herbicide that you can use in the home – just make sure you take great care when and where you dispense it.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Prodiamine Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Prodiamine 65 is a pre-emergent herbicide to provide you with excellent grass and broadleaf weed control. Ideal for use in both spring and fall, you can achieve season-long protection against crabgrass and other undesirable weeds in your desirable turfgrass.

A professional product, it’s best for use around nurseries, trees, established perennials, and wildflower plantings, and any non-crop region you wish to control annual bluegrass (poa annua), henbit, knotweed, chickweed, spurge, foxtail, and goosegrass.

One of the best commercial weed killers for lawns there is, and a solid alternative to more well-known brand names.

Pros

Cons

Round Up Pro Concentrate Systemic Herbicide

Now, this is interesting. This particular product is called Roundup Pro, and at 50.2% it has one of the highest amounts of glyphosate as the active ingredient in any commercially available weed killer (with Roundup Quik Pro being the only one higher).

However, it’s manufactured by Monsanto, a company that is actually no more, and one that has something of a checkered past – including controversies surrounding Roundup itself.

It seems this very potent, post-emergent herbicide is still readily available, so it’s up to you to decide if you’re happy using it on and around your property with a clear conscience.

Pros

Cons

Tenacity Turf Herbicide

Although this looks like it comes in such a small quantity (a syringe is included), this eight-ounce bottle is actually deceptively potent and will make up to 96 gallons of herbicide with 1/2 a teaspoon per gallon of water.

It should last you a long time with correct use.

Designed as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide for the selective contact and residual control of weeds in turf grasses, it will tackle over 46 nuisance broadleaf and grass species.

Tenacity’s active ingredient is 40% mesotrione, which is a naturally occurring compound – so you’re not using any harsh chemicals here. Very highly rated, this is a professional-grade product that will help you achieve excellent results for your lawns.

Pros

Cons

Milestone Specialty Herbicide

Milestone is another broad-spectrum weed killer for use on noxious and invasive species that appear in your lawn.

Best used to attack broadleaf weeds, like the Tenacity, it kills by both a post and pre-emergent effect, offering a super-fast knockdown within 24 hours, and long-lasting, residual control so weeds don’t come back.

No mixing is required, and it’s selective on most warm and cool-season grasses. Designed for commercial and agricultural use, it’s a potent weed killer that will also kill trees and shrubs should you require it to do that.

Another highly rated herbicide that will do the job it’s supposed to do – and then some. Just be careful you’re not spraying it on a windy day.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate

Homedepot.com

Here we have our last Roundup product which is their best concentrated weed killer for controlling widespread unwanted plant problems.

With a high percentage of glyphosate and designed for use in tank sprayers, you can cover a lot of ground and keep weeds at bay with one of Roundup’s most potent products available for residential use.

Ideal for use around flowers, shrubs, and trees, on patios, walkways, driveways, gravel areas, and mulch beds and along fences, edging and foundations, it’s rainproof within 30 minutes and you’ll see results in two to four days.

Cover 25,500 square feet and eradicate weeds from your property with this potent, post-emergent formula.

Pros

Cons

GrazonNext HL Herbicide

Grazon Next HL is a specialty herbicide that has been designed to kill more than 100 species of broadleaf weeds, including the hard-to-control perennials we all struggle with – such as nightshades, Canada thistle, horsenettle, and Texas bull nettle sharper.

Offers a fast burn-down all season long, and is safe to use on desirable grasses such as fescue, Bahia grass, and Bermuda grass – should it be required.

With no grazing restrictions regarding livestock, it’s designed for farm and agricultural use – but you can also have these benefits at home. Check out the very impressive reviews for this product and make your own mind up.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Commercial Weed Killer

There’s a lot to consider before you add your chosen commercial weed killer to the cart. Below, you’ll find a buyer’s guide that explains everything you should be looking out for.

Strength/Active Ingredients

Since we’re talking about commercial weed killers, perhaps the most important thing to consider is just how strong the product is.

Commercial herbicides are designed to be used by farmers, landscape professionals, around industrial and commercial sites, and at sport and leisure facilities – such as golf courses.

And these folks aren’t messing around – they want this nuisance vegetation dead.

With that in mind, you’ll find these products often contain some of the harshest chemicals and compounds – including the infamous glyphosate – which has been making headlines around the world in recent years.

There’s no doubt its ability to kill plants, but it’s the potential effects on humans and animals that are causing a stir.

When choosing a commercial herbicide for use around your home, check the active ingredients and their potency, and take great care when applying products of this strength.

Take into consideration water run-off, where you’re applying these chemicals, and if you have children or pets running around.

And if you prefer something a little milder, check out this review of the best pet-safe weed killers on the market.

For more information, and a short, crash-course in herbicide basics (including a word on the strength) check out the video below.

Selectivity

Another of the most important factors to consider when choosing a weed killer is in understanding what it is actually going to kill.

A selective weed killer will only attack certain plants and vegetation while leaving other species alone.

For residential purposes, perhaps the best use of a selective herbicide is on your lawn – where you certainly don’t want to kill off the desired grass, but you want to rid yourself of an invasive weed.

Of course, if you prefer not to use anything potentially harsh on your lawn, have a read of this article on how to remove weeds from your lawn without chemicals.

A non-selective weed killer will eliminate just about everything green that it comes into contact with.

They are the most potent of herbicides and should be used with great care, particularly around plants and vegetation that you want to keep.

Non-selective herbicides are ideal for use over larger areas where you simply want everything dead, and you’re not risking killing off anything desirable.

Aside from understanding selectivity, it’s also worth noting if the weed killer you’re interested in actually kills the species you want to remove.

Checking the label, reading online reviews, and listening to feedback from people who have actually been successful/unsuccessful with the product is an excellent way to figure out if it’s right for you.

For example, nettles can be an obnoxious, nuisance weed that are difficult to eradicate, so check out this dedicated article on how to get rid of nettles for more in-depth advice.

Pre/Post-Emergent

The life of a weed also needs to be understood (at least by the boffins in the chemical biology labs) in order to know how best to kill it.

With this in mind, three types of herbicides are readily available and are explained below.

Pre-plant herbicides will be used well before any weeds have had the chance to germinate, and in areas where a desirable crop is to be planted in the future.

Pre-emergent herbicides will kill the weed growth before germination, or before you see any vegetation breaking through the soil.

Post-emergent herbicides are specifically designed to destroy any existing and visible weeds that have sprouted and taken hold.

It should also be noted that post-emergent herbicides will either be ‘contact’ or ‘systemic.’ A contact herbicide will only kill what it touches, whereas a systemic herbicide will make its way through the plant and kill it from the root.

All commercial weed killers will fall under one of these categories, and it’s up to you to decide which you think will work best for your situation.

Persistence

When talking about the persistence of a weed killer, it’s simply referring to the length of time it will stay active in the soil after application. You will notice there are two types.

Persistent herbicides will prevent weeds from regrowing over a set period of time. This can vary from a few days or months, to up to a year and possibly more – depending on the strength.

Also called residual weed killers, they reside in the soil and are generally used in areas you want to keep clear of all plant life for as long as possible – without the need for further chemical application. Clearing weeds from driveways is a good example.

Non-persistent herbicides are exactly the opposite. They do not prevent any future regrowth, so plant life will come back to the treated area eventually.

While this might seem disadvantageous for weed killing, it’s more so that future crops can be planted in that soil.

Which type you choose will depend on what you want to achieve in certain areas around your garden over time.

Quantity

Commercial herbicides usually come in large quantities as more often than not they’re required to cover enormous areas.

Having said that, you can still purchase these formulas in smaller amounts, in spray or trigger guns, for example, to spot-treat, particularly stubborn weeds.

Remember, purchasing larger quantities will be more cost-effective in the long-run, but always choose the amount that suits your property and weed murdering requirements.

Application Methods

As well as coming in a variety of quantities, commercial weed killers are available in a variety of states and require suitable application methods to dispense destruction.

For smaller areas, trigger or spray guns will be suitable – especially if you just need to spot-treat one or two weeds.

If you need a step up from this, larger bottles are available that often come with their own spray applicator nozzle.

When treating lawns, granular weed killers are more common and are dispensed by using a lawn or seed spreader. They can also be useful around flower beds.

For larger areas, tank or backpack sprayers work best, usually with some kind of concentrate liquid herbicide that you need to dilute with water before applying.

And some herbicides require (or work best with) a surfactant – which changes the surface tension of the liquid and the target area it’s being applied to. This greatly helps it to penetrate the surface for more successful results.

A Note on Brand Names

If you were to ask anyone to name a weed killer, the chances are they would respond with “Roundup.”

While it’s the most famous brand name herbicide (certainly in the US and Canada), does it necessarily make a difference when it comes to actual results?

The answer is no.

Being the most well-known doesn’t always equate to being the best.

Having said that, there’s no doubting Roundup’s pedigree for weed massacre, it’s just that similar weed killers with almost identical ingredients also exist.

This is especially true after the glyphosate patent expired back in 2000 – and anyone can use that chemical formula in their weed killer products should they so wish.

In short, in the weed-killing world, although the brand name products have established themselves a loyal customer base – what works for one gardener might not work for you.

It might be worth a bit of trial and error – and you could end up discovering something that provides excellent results at a fraction of the cost.

Summary

Choosing the right herbicide for your needs isn’t as straightforward as you might think, as there are all kinds of products and formulas on the market, as the multiple gardening situations and scenarios that they cover.

But if you really just want to kill those pesky plants stone dead, then you need to add the best commercial weed killer to your ranks.

I hope this article has helped you discover the one that’s right for you, and let me know in the comments which product you have chosen and why.

Lawn care doesn’t completely stop during winter.

Sure, the grass is dormant, there might be less to do, and you can generally take a well-deserved break from intensive garden maintenance.

But for a truly enviable patch of grass, you’re not quite done just yet.

By implementing the tips and tricks in this article, you can see your lawn safely and healthily through the colder months, so it comes up smiling in the spring.

And that’s the difference between a good lawn, and a great one.

Let’s get started.

Winter Lawn Care – Too Long, Didn’t Read

In a rush?

Here’s a brief summary of what’s included in this article if you don’t have the time to read the whole thing.

A good fall/winter lawn care regimen includes:

We still highly recommend reading through each point in more detail, as you’ll find a wealth of expert tips and advice on how to achieve the best results.

Furthermore, you won’t necessarily need to do everything in the list above from September through to March/April – so it’s a good idea to read on to properly learn what goes where.

It’s also beneficial to understand how grass behaves during the winter, so let’s take care of that right now.

Knowing Your Grass Type

Winter grass care depends highly on the type of grass you have growing on your lawn. If you live in Northern climates, you probably have cool season grass while those living in Southern climates are more likely to have warm season grass.

But what’s the difference?

Cool season grass is usually a type (or species) of turf grass, designed for decoration, to be mowed more often and growing best in warm weather in spring and summer.

This is the most widespread lawn grass in the US, so you are likely to have this type on your lawn. Cool season grass becomes dormant (inactive) during colder seasons yet looks beautifully green most of the time. Plus, it’s said to absorb pollutants so it’s great for air quality too!

Warm season grass usually includes different types that take their origins from tropical areas. This kind of grass is made to be resistant to drought and grow the most during the hottest times of summer.

If you live in the Southern area, take note of the humidity – not all types of warm season grass are suited for places that are very dry.

Knowing the type of grass on your lawn and the conditions you live in will determine how much watering is needed and what your lawn needs are during winter months. And if there is even such thing as winter where you live!

What Happens to Grass During Winter?

Just as with all things nature, the season of winter makes your lawn go… well, quiet.

It doesn’t mean it’s becoming completely inactive, but it’s minimizing its growth in order to withstand the harsh weather.

During this time, the grass is more fragile. It will stop growing sometime during late October or early November – or whenever the temperatures drop regularly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

That’s when you should be thinking about the last mow of the season – but more on this step is coming up, below.

After it stops growing, the grass is slowly going to turn brown (again, depending on your species. Some grasses – particularly warm season varieties, will stay green all year round).

Help! My grass is dying!

No, it’s not.

Grass turning brown is perfectly natural, and absolutely no reason to panic. It then enters a dormant state to prepare for the really cold weather.

Brown grass isn’t dead or dying, it’s simply focused on conserving water, nutrients, and the energy it needs to survive.

Think of it as hunkering down or hibernating when the Mercury plummets. Which is pretty much what I do during the frigid winters of the Midwest.

And it’s because of those freezing temperatures that your lawn needs a little extra TLC to see it through to the spring.

Preparing Your Lawn for Winter

Winter lawn care starts well before winter arrives, and you might find that your fall yard work schedule is just as busy as it was in the summer – if not more so.

Here’s what you need to do:

Cleaning Up

Winterizing your lawn starts with ensuring it’s completely cleared of debris and detritus. You need to:

Once the lawn is free from such material, you’re ready to dethatch and aerate – keep reading for more information on those two important practices.

For a more in-depth fall lawn care guide – including steps and advice on how to properly prepare your turf for winter – follow that link.

And don’t forget to practice composting with all that decaying matter you clean up – get it out of your gutters, off your lawns, and into a compost bin!

Check out the video below, which explains how you can continue to compost through the winter months.

Winter Mowing

I don’t think I know anyone that genuinely enjoys mowing their lawn. Unless, maybe, you’ve got one of these riding lawn mowers, that is.

Thankfully, mowing the grass isn’t required during winter. Grass has all but stopped growing, and it becomes brittle and weak – particularly after frost.

Which also means the neighborhood is now blissfully quiet – without the cacophony of lawnmower engines every weekend. (And one of the many reasons why I’m a fan of eco-friendly battery-powered machines).

As mentioned above, your last mow of the season should come when the temperature has dropped constantly below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and/or when the grass has visibly stopped growing.

As a rule of thumb, this is usually sometime during late October to early November.

But does height matter? What setting should you apply to your lawnmower for this final cut?

A pre-winter mow should be a little shorter than usual, to help protect your grass against snow mold, and other such lawn diseases.

Never allow your grass to remain long through winter – as you’re asking for all kinds of trouble come the spring.

This article on proper mowing heights through the seasons will tell you more.

Aerating and Dethatching

Once you’re left with a visibly tidier lawn, you might think it’s been completely cleared.

But there’s still a bit of work to do.

Look closely, right on the soil surface, at the base of the grass blades.

It’s here you’ll find a layer or material called “thatch” – dead plant life, debris, and organic matter that accumulates just above the soil.

This layer can be detrimental to the health of your lawn, harboring weeds, pests, and unwanted critters, as well as choking out the grass itself.

It needs to be removed.

Check out this full guide on how to dethatch your lawn, including why, where, when, and how to do it successfully.

Once properly dethatched, you can move on to aeration.

After the stresses of the summer, including drought, foot traffic, and other factors, your lawn is likely to be fairly compact.

Aeration is the process that loosens up the soil, and allows your lawn to breathe.

Aside from encouraging healthy grass blades, it has numerous other benefits, all of which are discussed in this aeration article. The link also has tips on how to properly aerate your lawn.

Overseeding and Repair

If your lawn has bald/bare spots, or has suffered under heavy traffic, pet and animal urine, or any other stresses through the summer months, this is a good opportunity for some repair work.

Overseeding is the best way to bring back barren or damaged areas of grass on your lawn.

While it’s going to be of no use through winter itself, the fall is one of the best times of year to overseed, as it will help keep your grass healthy and strong as the temperature drops.

And, of course, it will patch up any problem areas where you see more brown than you do green.

Go here for a full guide on how to help your grass grow healthy and thick – including advice on the best overseeding practices.

Winter Fertilizing

Fertilizing isn’t necessary during winter. In fact, it would cause much more harm than good.

Imagine how crabby you would be if you were asleep and someone tried to force-feed you!

But you should still aim to fertilize one final time just before the first frost is due, and after you’ve mowed, dethatched, aerated, and overseeded of course.

Make sure you choose the right kind of fertilizer for your soil and lawn. The video below explains this in more depth.

Winter Watering

Much like mowing, your lawn isn’t going to need watering through the winter – with a couple of caveats.

If you find your region experiencing a warmer, drier winter than normal, then it is advisable to give your lawn a drink from time to time.

However, as in most cases, snow and rainfall will be more than enough to provide the moisture your lawn needs from November through April.

And remember – overwatering and too much moisture can damage a lawn, so only reach for the hose if absolutely necessary.

Observation and Action

Now, you might think to yourself – all of these steps have taken place before winter – how do I actually care for my lawn during winter?!

And it’s a great point to make.

Once your winter lawn care prep is finished (likely to be around early November for most people) you might think there’s little else to do.

But there are two more, very important steps in helping your lawn through the winter months.

Keep your eyes on it.

And keep your feet off it!

Winter lawns are brittle and weak, and if you’re trudging your size 11s all over the yard, you’re going to damage grass that’s already struggling enough.

So, observe from a distance, and note things like excess moisture build up (such as poor drainage), signs of pests or disease, and any weather-related effects in your region.

Plus any other unforeseen incidents that might cause your lawn unwanted grief.

Then, you can act accordingly, and give your turf what it needs – only when it needs it.

And when the snows finally start to clear, and a bit of color returns to the world, check out this article on how to properly care for your lawn after winter.

Because then the hard work really begins.

Again!

What if it Snows?

If it snows – build a snowman!

A blanket of snowfall can actually be beneficial to your grass, as it provides a nice boost of nitrogen to the soil, at the same time as protecting it from the cold and wind chill it had previously been suffering under.

It also acts as an insulator, warming the freezing surface a little, and giving the grass a much-needed drink from the moisture in the snow.

As such, you don’t need to be too concerned when the white stuff arrives. Your lawn should survive perfectly fine under it.

Tools and Maintenance

Now that your lawn has its winter coat on, you can sit back, relax, and reflect on your lawn care regimen.

How did you do?

What were your successes?

What could you have done better?

And do you have a heated garage?!

While you’re pondering the year’s gardening experience, you might also like to take a look at all your lawn care tools.

Because lawn care starts and ends with having the proper gear and equipment in your arsenal.

Sharp tools, and well-oiled machines. What needs to move can move, and what needs to be fixed stays fixed.

While yard work is all but over for the season, winter is a great time to maintain, repair, and replace any tools and yard machines you might have.

Providing, of course, you have a comfortable place in which to do it!

Personally, I don’t have a warm garage, so I wait until temperatures start to increase before maintaining my lawn care armory.

But do whatever you feel comfortable with.

Here’s a complete list of all the lawn care tools you’ll ever need, and don’t miss our complete annual lawn care guide – which shows you what to do on a month-by-month calendar basis.

FAQs

How do I keep my grass nice in winter?

There’s not a lot you can actually do during winter itself (except be observant and stay off your lawn), so winter grass care starts in the fall.

Follow the regimen above and your lawn should return green and healthy come the spring.

Should I do anything to my lawn before winter?

Yes. In fact, it’s during the last days of autumn that are perhaps most important for winter lawn care health.

It’s during these days that you should be undertaking your final mow, dethatching and aerating, overseeding (if required), and laying down a winter prep fertilizer.

Is it better to leave your grass longer for winter?

No. You might think that longer grass is going to protect it – as it does during the heat of the summer – but you actually need to cut your grass shorter for winter.

That’s so it doesn’t create a breeding ground for mold and other diseases – particularly when under a blanket of snow.

Do I need to fertilize my lawn before winter?

You don’t need to – your lawn should survive perfectly fine without it.

But if you really want to make sure it bounces back as healthily and green as possible, then it certainly won’t hurt to apply some fertilizer in the fall.

Just make sure you’re using the right type of fertilizer with the right balance of nutrients for your soil. When in doubt, use soil testing kits to be sure.

Should my grass be watered in the winter?

No, it’s not necessary. Snow and rainfall will take care of that.

That is, of course, unless you’re in a region that doesn’t get much snow or rain, and/or you experience a freakishly warm and dry winter.

In that case, feel free to break out the sprinkler as and when required. Just be careful not to overwater – which can cause more harm than good – particularly during the colder months.

Should I aerate my lawn in winter?

During winter it will be too late – the ground will be frozen solid, and aerating is a tough enough job as it is!

The fall is the best time to aerate your lawn – after the stresses of summer, and just before the first frost of the season.

Conclusion

Hopefully, these winter lawn tips will help you and your lawn prepare for the next winter – and stop you from feeling like grass is always greener elsewhere.

Now, do you have any tips of your own for lawn care in winter that you have found useful or even life-changing?

Do share them in the comment section!

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna, some of the leading brands in riding lawnmowers. We will then compare the pros and cons of each brand.

Don’t worry, I have put together a few FAQs to make things even more transparent, hopefully.

Best Models of Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna

I have taken 3 models of each of the 3 brands, which, after a lot of research, I consider to be the best on the market. So, without much further ado, let’s get into the finer details of these brands:

Husqvarna YTH24V48 Riding Lawn Mower

Size does matter when you are looking at acres of grass, begging to be mowed! This lawn tractor from Husqvarna shows its capability with an ample 48-inch cutting deck.

The 24 hp engine generates powerful torque thanks to the hydrostatic transmission. It also results in smoother operation and better fuel efficiency.

Despite its large engine and wide cutting deck, the mower itself is adequately compact, which ensures easy maneuverability.

It’s a powerful machine at a surprisingly reasonable price, striking a balance between performance and affordability.

A cruise control option allows you to use to maintain a constant speed, which is useful for tackling rough terrain and combating fatigue, and it offers a 16-inch turning circle for negotiating obstacles and tight spaces

It’s also an absolute joy to drive, and it’s well worth checking out for that reason alone.

Cub Cadet CC30H Riding Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

If you have space constraints, then this riding lawn mower could possibly be what you’re looking for. The mower has a rear engine.

It offers an in-between solution when your lawn is too large to use the walking model but too small for the larger, riding versions.

It has a powerful 382-cc engine with auto choke, with mow-in-reverse technology, so you can get the job done in no time. And the hydrostatic transmission offers a silky-smooth ride, with adjustable seating for all-day comfort.

But don’t expect to ride up steep hills on this one. With a cutting deck of just 30 inches, it doesn’t promise to cover vast tracts of lawn very fast.

Nevertheless, this lawn tractor offers significant maneuverability. You can mow up to one acre of lawn, comfortably. And you can do so even when the light starts to fade, with the inclusion of an LED headlamp, which is handy in all weather conditions.

The deck has a built-in high-pressure washing system, so you can be sure no material or debris remains, and the CC30H is ready to be taken on its next spin.

John Deere S140 Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Offering a 48-inch cutting deck with a 22 HP V-Twin engine, this John Deere lawn tractor is ideal for larger yards and gardens.

Powerful enough to tackle the toughest bagging and mulching tasks, it features a hydrostatic transmission for a smooth drive, as well as side-by-side foot pedals to control speed and direction of travel.

Three blades are in operation, with an edge cutting system that’s capable of lifting the grass for a superior cut. And the fully welded steel frame and cast iron front axle provides the strength to do it.

John Deere has left no stone unturned by way of comfort and convenience, with an ergonomic operation station that’s fully adjustable, with easy-to-use controls, and a 15-inch, heat-resistant open back seat.

The super-powerful battery is capable of first-time starts even after a period of no use, there’s even an app you can download to get fuel levels, engine hours and other performance-related data.

And with 13 different cutting heights, you can be sure to get the exact look you want for your yard. Check out this article for tips on how to achieve a professional striped lawn which should be no problem for this machine from such an iconic land maintenance company.

Husqvarna Z242F Zero-Turn Lawn Mower

When you have a big lawn but have to deal with tight corners, there’s nothing like a zero-turn riding lawnmower to get the job done.

If you have been using a regular riding mower and are considering an upgrade, this would make a good choice.

The Kawasaki gasoline engine delivers a respectable 21.5 hp, and the cutting deck has a width of 42 inches. It has a hydrostatic transmission to provide consistent torque and fuel-efficient operation.

High performance blades provide razor-sharp cut, aided by a superior air-flow system and deep deck that significantly improves bagging. And there’s a choice of three options when it comes to how you dispose of cut grass.

Capable of handling tricky terrain, the castors and wheels are tough and durable, and you can enjoy speeds of up to 6.5 MPH as you make short work of your unruly lawn.

In the driving position, you’ll find an ergonomic control panel, adjustable seating, and an anti-slip foot area for improved comfort and safety.

This particular model has been designed for residential use. Take a look at this article on the best commercial zero-turn mowers for more options in this class.

John Deere Z345R Zero-Turn Lawn Mower

Homedepot.com

If you are looking for an alternative zero-turn riding mower within the same price bracket, you could go in for this one from John Deere.

The Z345R zero-turn mower has a powerful V-twin engine and is easy to control. The adjustable seat and armrests make for a comfortable drive, and there are even a couple of cup holders provided.

Zero turn mowers normally have a bad rep when it comes to handling hills and slopes, but this model offers enough power to tackle such terrain, with mowing speeds of up to seven miles per hour if you need it.

The floating deck also helps, as well as providing an improved cut quality when traveling at higher speeds, with dual EZT transmissions and large wheels to help achieve maximum performance.

And this zero-turn machine has certainly been designed for that, offering the fastest possible cut without sacrificing the finished aesthetic; while the three-gallon fuel tank lets you play all day.

An 18-inch seat back has thick foam padding for comfort, and the armrests provide additional support. A rubber floor mat offers a non-slip grip, while ensuring the foot deck remains clean and scratch-free.

Cub Cadet XT1 LT42 Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Again, this model by Cub Cadet uses hydrostatic transmission with an adjustable seat, so you can look forward to a comfortable ride. To add to the comfort is a cup holder, and you get a soft-grip steering wheel, as well.

There are some other optional multi-seasonal attachments, which let you use this versatile lawn tractor all year round.

This lawn tractor is suitable for any lawn space under two acres with its 18 hp gas front engine and the 42-inch mowing deck.

Boasting a 547 CC engine, the XT1 features intelligent technology that provides you with up to 20% more power when and where you need it. And you won’t even notice it happening.

When you’re attempting to negotiate tough and challenging conditions, the throttle will automatically adjust to suit the terrain, freeing the engine up, so it can tackle even wet grass.

Mowing the lawn while wet isn’t recommended, but if you’re going to do it, you might as well have the best machine to do it with. And check out this article for some tips on how to cut wet grass safely.

With built-in LED headlights, you can keep working into the dusk, and the three-liter gas tank certainly lets you stay out there for as long as you need.

John Deere S180 Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

Backed with a 24 HP engine, the S180 from John Deere is a serious lawn tractor for serious lawn maintenance.

This is the premium model in the S-series range, with a whopping 54-inch deck to make short work of larger lawns and gardens, featuring an advanced air-filtration system for prolonged engine life.

Powerfully built and super strong, it handles mowing and hauling with ease, while the ergonomic seating area is designed for comfort, with straightforward controls that are simple to grasp.

Flexible forward and rear facing travel is available, with no less than 10 different driving positions, so you can find the one that’s right for you.

It has an easy-change oil system capable of a 30-second oil change, with an easy-to-read fuel gauge, ensuring you always know exactly how much is left in the tank.

As far as lawn tractors go, in the battle between these leading brands, the S180 makes a strong case for being the best.

Husqvarna MZ61 Briggs & Stratton Zero Turn Mower

If you’re looking for a next-level lawnmower, then you’ve come to the right place. This is an absolute beast of a machine, capable of a huge 54-inch cut, backed by a Briggs & Stratton engine that boasts 27 HP.

Along with the hydrostatic transmission, this monster can offer some seriously peppy ground speeds, ensuring that commercial-sized lawn cutting job isn’t as daunting as you first thought.

Especially considering its five gallon fuel tank – which should be enough for your football field of a backyard.

The fabricated 11-gauge steel deck has an ergonomically designed lifting system, so you can adjust the height from the comfort of the operating seat.

And the seat itself offers a high back, with foam-padded armrests and built-in vibration dampeners, so you won’t get the shakes when driving this for hours on end.

The only downside seems to be the enormous price tag – which is fair enough when you consider the size and specs of this professional-grade machine.

And it even has an hour meter with service reminder – so you know exactly when it needs a tune up.

Cub Cadet Ultima ZT2 60 Zero Turn Mower

Homedepot.com

Cub Cadet’s take on the commercial-grade zero turn mower is this beast, with a 24 HP V-twin Kawasaki engine under the hood.

While it won’t quite make the MotoGP, it still offers some seriously impressive speeds, with the 726 CC engine housed in a continuous tubular steel frame that offers unbeatable strength.

Designed for use on properties over five acres, it’s capable of tackling gentle slopes and multiple obstacles.

The AeroForce cutting system is purported to be best-in-class, while the operator cab is decked with features to make lawnmowing a joy.

That includes a foot-operated deck lift, a vibration-dampening rubber floor, an adjustable comfort seat, and plenty of legroom for you to stretch out and enjoy the mowing experience.

Dual LED headlights keep things illuminated in lower light conditions and bad weather, and there’s a hinged, removable floor hatch, so you can access the inner workings for easy maintenance.

There’s no wonder this is an award-winning zero turn mower from Cub Cadet.

The Stand-Off: Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna

Now, having covered the various models of these three brands, it’s time to compare each of them with each other.

I have highlighted the models of these particular brands based on their popularity in the riding lawn mower market. Each one is a good product, but then in different ways, one will always be better than the other.

Let’s Meet the Players

Cub Cadet

Founded in 1960 and headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Cub Cadet manufactures quality outdoor power equipment, including utility vehicles, lawn tractors, and snowblowers.

The baby of the group might not have quite the history of its peers, but they’ve certainly managed a lot within that time, and are a household name in their own right.

They are credited with inventing several “world firsts” including the hydrostatic transmission lawn tractor, three-stage snowblower, and robotic golf green mower.

And it was these guys who brought in the first mobile maintenance app – a technology that has been quickly replicated by other brands.

It’s fair to say that Cub Cadet has been at the forefront of innovation in the industry for over six decades.

John Deere

For farmers and forestry workers, seeing the iconic green and yellow livery of John Deere is like the equivalent of a comforting hug.

The US company was established in 1837, and they’ve grown to become the go-to choice for agriculture and construction professionals across the country.

“Nothing runs like a Deere” is their clever company slogan, and they’re not far wrong. Their tractors are built to last a lifetime.

Headquartered in Illinois, their legendary status has even made it into popular culture, including films and country songs.

They’re also a committed sustainability and climate leader in the industry, dedicated to producing more while using less.

Husqvarna

The world-famous Swedish brand is one of the oldest companies in the world, with roots back in 1689 as a rifle manufacturer.

In the years since, Husqvarna has made just about everything at one time or another.

Today, they’re more synonymous with their chainsaws, designing and building some of the best foresting machines in the world. You can take a look at some excellent examples in this review.

They’re the go-to choice for many foresters and arborists in the 43 countries they currently operate in.

They also cover every other garden power tool you can think of, and they have an extensive and wide-reaching dedicated fan base across the globe.

Power

The first concern you may have about a riding lawn mower is power.

The Cub Cadet models featured in this list are not as powerful as the other two brands. However, these are smaller versions, meant for smaller lawn space.

Hence, if you are looking for a bigger and more powerful machine, you need to go for a Husqvarna or John Deere lawn tractor. This is especially applicable if your surrounding terrain is hilly.

Don’t worry, if the above models didn’t interest you, we’ve put together a separate article on the best lawn mowers for hills.

Price Tag

An essential aspect of any product is its cost.

However, excellent a product may be, we are always interested in how much we need to spend on it. However big your property may be, you will always have budget considerations.

From the budget point of view, I find the Cub Cadet models the most cost-effective. But if money isn’t a constraint, then either of the other brands, Husqvarna or John Deere, fall within a similar price range.

Ease of Use

I feel that this is a tricky issue. The winner here, of course, goes to the Cub Cadet models with their small, compact machines.

The bigger and heavier machines from Husqvarna and John Deere are relatively more challenging to handle.

I must say here, that the John Deere Z345R Zero-Turn lawn tractor is easy to handle due to its lightweight controls and easy maneuverability. Hence if you are looking for a lighter vehicle, either of the Cub Cadet models is easy to use.

However, if you are to get a heavier model, then you would be looking at the John Deere models in terms of ease of use.

Overall Efficiency

Having sifted through the information regarding the performance of the models of these three brands, I chose the John Deere Z345R zero-turn gas riding lawn mower as the clear overall winner.

When you are looking for efficiency, it means that you want the maximum output from the minimum effort you put in. And that is what you get from this model by John Deere.

When you want a machine that gets your work done effortlessly, no matter what volume of work is involved, you don’t look at things like price or size. You need to get the job done fast and efficiently.

Hence, with all its useful features, and a top speed of seven miles per hour, you’ve got a clear winner! This puts the Husqvarna and Cub Cadet models in the second and third place, respectively.

FAQs

I have tried to cover as many features as possible with these riding lawn mower models. However, after reading all this, you might still have a few questions in light of the information I have provided.

So, here are answers to some frequently asked questions (FAQs) should you have them.

Is Husqvarna better than John Deere?

John Deere has its fair share of complaints. But it has been pointed out that none of these have been consistent and most complaints tend to be minor.

On the other hand, Husqvarna has received a dose of bad publicity about expensive repairs and misleading warranty information. Further, consider the long-term performance of John Deer Vs Husqvarna, after about say, four years.

The percentage of John Deere lawn tractors breaking down is relatively less than that of the Husqvarna machines of the same category.

Is Cub Cadet better than John Deere?

When it comes to consistent quality, John Deere always wins hands down.

The Cub Cadet riding lawn mowers are quite versatile in their operation, and even slightly cheaper than the John Deere ones in the same class. And, you get a relatively equal cutting performance.

However, if you put both brands side-by-side, John Deere has a lower failure rate.

Does John Deere make their own engines?

Here, the answer is yes, and no. John Deere makes their own engines of higher-power capacity, like 100 hp and above. They have a diesel engine manufacturing plant in Waterloo, Iowa.

However, for smaller engines of less than 100 hp, the company uses other brands like Kawasaki, Briggs & Stratton, and Yanmar Diesels.

How many hours does a John Deere lawn tractor last?

The durability of any lawn tractor has a lot to do with how you handle the preventive maintenance schedules. If you follow the guidelines provided in the service manual, you can get the most extended life out of your lawn tractor.

However, there is a consensus among users that you can get about 500 hours to 1,000 hours out of the smaller models, and the bigger models will give you from 1,500 hours to 2,000 hours.

But, as long as the spare parts of your lawn tractor are available, it can last almost forever!

How to deal with a lawn tractor that won’t start?

There are several reasons for the engine not starting. To begin with, check if there is sufficient fuel in the tank. Now turn the blades manually to check if they are free or if they’ve jammed for any reason.

The most common reason for a lawn tractor to have starting problems is a faulty spark plug. Check to see if the spark plug is fitted tightly enough and that the cables are in place and not damaged.

You can clean the plug or change it if it seems to be damaged. You could also check the choke/cable to see everything is functioning correctly.

If you’ve left your lawn tractor outside and idle in the winter months, then you probably need to replace the fuel.

Why does a lawn tractor stop working on wet grass?

Wet grass is sticky because it tends to get pulled up by the mower blades along with a considerable quantity of mud. This clogs up the blades and the internal parts.

Also, the soil becomes soft, and the tractor’s wheels start to sink into the dirt, which can cause the cutting deck almost to touch the surface.

Ultimately, the blades get jammed with mud and the engine stalls. This is extremely dangerous for electric-powered machines because unless equipped with an overload protector, the motor could quickly burn out.

How can you make a lawnmower engine be less noisy?

Since these engines are mostly rather basic, two-stroke engines, they are inherently noisier than their more refined counterparts.

Also, they are air-cooled and not water-cooled. Air-cooled engines are louder. The mufflers of water-cooled engines are covered by a water jacket, which cuts down the noise considerably.

However, you can modify the muffler, but the more you stifle the exhaust, the more chance is there to compromise on the power of the engine.

But, be aware that a poorly-maintained engine is likely to be noisier. So, ensure to maintain your engine regularly and see that it is properly tuned.

What is the speed of the blades of a riding lawn mower?

Many factors decide the speed of a riding lawnmower. For example, the engine tends to slow down a bit while the mower is climbing a hill.

However, the average speed of riding lawn mower blades is usually between 2,800 RPM to 3,200 RPM. The rotational speed of the blades at the tips can be between 200 MPH to 250 MPH.

How can I sharpen my lawnmower blade?

Dismantle the blade carefully noting the location. Hold the blade in a vise and use a file to sharpen the dull edges at a 45-degree angle. Take care not to sharpen excessively.

Once done, replace the blade and repeat with all the other blades.

If you don’t have a file, not to worry, check out this article on the best lawn mower blade sharpeners. Yes, there are other options out there!

Conclusion

I hope that you found this article useful. By now, you should have a better idea about the pros and cons of these three models of riding lawnmowers.

The one thing I think we can take away after looking at these three brands is that there really isn’t a best or worst in these products. Each person has a unique user experience, with their individual requirements.

Hence, if you are looking for a suitable riding lawn mower, you need to be aware of what your needs are and your circumstances. The information in this comparative review of Cub Cadet vs John Deere vs Husqvarna should help you make a suitable choice for yourself.

Happy mowing!

Ground hornets are almost impossible to miss since they have large bodies. Their physique helps them catch other bugs, and they have a very predatory nature. If you notice these imposing bees flying around your home, it is best to learn how to get rid of ground hornets in case they are living close by.

The Basics of Ground Hornets

Hornets are larger than ground bees and have a more dangerous sting. There is no difference between ground hornets and tree hornets when it comes to size. They choose a different place to build their nest, and that’s it.

Ground hornets can inhabit walls as well as old tree stumps. However, their favorite place is dry or loose soil.

Just like every animal that digs holes in the yard, hornets don’t like obstacles. They could also live in flowerbeds. Considering their nests are underground, the removal is a bit tricky but not impossible.

If you want to know when are ground hornets least active so you could remove the nest, the answer is at night. They have poor sight and usually don’t come out after dark.

Of course, wearing protective gear such as thick landscaping gloves is recommended because some hornets might get out of the nest and try to deal with the attacker, and that’s you. Seek immediate ground hornets sting treatment in case of an allergy.

How to Get Rid of Ground Hornets: 3 Methods

Soap and Water Mixture

If you ever had to deal with ground wasps, you already know that soap and water mixture is the easiest way to get rid of them. The same method can be applied to ground hornets.

First, you need to locate the nest and cover the entrance with a fabric. Secure it in place, so it doesn’t move. Then pour the mixture of soap and water into the hole.

Water should drown the hornets that are in the nest as the fabric prevents them from swarming out. Soap will immobilize their wings and make flying impossible. Leave the nest overnight with the covering and remove it in the morning.

A DIY Hornet Trap

You haven’t located the nest yet, but hornets are making you uncomfortable? A DIY trap might be the best solution. It is the most effective way of minimizing the number of hornets in your vicinity without applying insecticides.

Pet owners and people who don’t like using chemicals in their yard often choose this method.

You will need a soda bottle for this, the larger, the better. Cut it at the neck and put some olive oil or something sweet on the inside. Pour some water in as well. Turn the piece you have just cut off, remove the cap, and place it back into the bottle.

You could also make holes on the side if you plan to hang the trap.

Hornets will be attracted to whatever you choose to put inside. Don’t neglect the trap and empty it as often as possible. You could also add a couple of drops of soap if you are worried that ground hornets might not drown right away.

Insecticide Dust

Insecticide dust is the best way to get rid of ground hornets around plants. Contrary to popular belief, these chemicals will not affect flowers in your garden.

When you purchase the insecticide dust, make sure you get the additional equipment as well. It includes a duster with a long pole that will help you spray the nest without getting too close.

You also need to use insecticide dust at a specific time. Ground hornets should be in the nest when you spray, so do it during the night or before dawn. The dust should be applied directly into the opening.

After that, wait for two to three days before getting close to the nest to inspect the results.

The Prevention

Now that you have removed the colony from your garden, it might be the perfect time to learn how to prevent ground hornets from building nests again.

If you have used poison or any other chemical, hornets will know that returning to their previous nest is out of the question, especially if the queen is dead.

You can also make your yard unliveable for them. This is quite simple because hornets love dry and quiet places. So take good care of your lawn by mowing it regularly and keeping the ground moist. Focus on flowerbeds as well.

FAQs

Is it safe to mow the yard if I have ground hornets?

Ground hornets are not aggressive unless they sense danger. Coming super close to their nest with a lawnmower is considered a threat, and the chances are you will be attacked.

The entrance to the nest is small and almost invisible so you might bump into it by accident. Those of you who have noticed a lot of hornets flying around your garden lately should locate the nest first. Then mow the lawn and keep a safe distance from the hornets.

Are ground hornets aggressive?

Hornets are overly protective but will not sting a human without being provoked. Guarding the nest is their number one priority, and anyone who comes close to it could be attacked by these bees.

Each nest has a “team” that stays close to the entrance of the nest. Once they sense something is up, the guards will alert the rest of the colony. It is also important to mention that hornets can sting several times since their stinger doesn’t fall off.

Does killing a hornet attract more?

The short answer is yes. If you kill a hornet close to its nest, the chances are you will summon the entire colony to come after you. A dead hornet releases a pheromone that immediately attracts other nearby hornets.

Remember that a couple of stings may not be deadly, but if a colony attacks you, the aftermath could be horrible.

Where do hornets go when their nest is destroyed?

Do you want to learn how to destroy an in-ground hornets’ nest, but curious about where they will go afterward?

Some hornets will return to the site and hang around for a couple of days, trying to communicate with other surviving members of the colony.

They could try to rebuild it in another location if the queen is alive. If not, hornets will try to get accepted to another nest or die on their own.

What smells do hornets hate?

Both wasps and hornets are repulsed by the smell of peppermint. You can keep them away from your garden by planting some peppermint in the flowerbeds.

Optionally, use peppermint oil and spray your yard now and then. It is completely natural and pet-safe.

They are also not fond of wormwood, citronella, eucalyptus, and spearmint.

Summary

Learning how to kill ground hornets can come in handy if you want to spend a lot of time in your yard without constantly thinking you might get stung. Ground hornets are not solitary bees, and they create large colonies.

There are several methods you could use against them, and some require things you already have in the household, such as water and soap.

If you want to know what kills ground hornets most effectively, the answer would be insecticide dust because it is a type of poison. It works quickly and can destroy an entire colony without putting you and your family at risk.

But whatever option you choose, make sure you are well protected when you go out there to deal with ground hornets.

There are various models on the market today, and your choice depends on the needs at hand and personal preferences. In this article, I have compiled reviews of some top-rated lawn sweepers and a comprehensive buying guide for an easy selection process.

The 12 Best Lawn Sweepers in 2026

Agri-Fab 42-Inch Tow Lawn Sweeper

One of the things you should keep in mind when looking for a lawn sweeper is the overall design. This particular model from Agri-Fab comes in a simple yet functional design. It is super easy to use and works great if you tend to clean up regularly.

One thing I love about the design is the adjustable brush height. If you have various lengths of grass on your lawn, this is a feature to keep in mind. With this, you only need to set it above the ground to your preferred height.

Pros

Cons

Agri-Fab Inc 52-Inch Lawn Sweeper

It is important to note that not all models are compatible with the type of tractor you have when looking for a lawn sweeper. Luckily, this 52-inch model from Agri- Fab is designed to match most tractors for secure attachment and use.

It is quite versatile, and considering the size, it does an excellent job of clearing a vast lawn. What’s more, the lawn sweeper has an infinite height adjustment feature. This ensures it works well for different needs allowing you to customize it for desirable results.

Pros

Cons

Brinly STS-42BHDK Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

If your sole purpose of getting a lawn sweeper is to clear the lawn after dethatching, I recommend getting this one. It comes with a dethatcher, which cuts the job time in half. It allows you to dethatch your grass and sweep simultaneously, which is great for large lawns.

But, what if you do not need the dethatcher?

Well, you might need to dethatch your grass once in a while, but if that is not a regular need for you, then you can still use this model solely as a sweeper. The good thing is that you can raise the tines using the adjustment handle to use it as a sweeper. You do not have to struggle to remove the dethatcher, and you still keep it handy if you need it at some point.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman 42-inch Tow Lawn Sweeper

Craftsman has some of the best garden tools and equipment. This tow lawn sweeper, in particular, is designed for easy use, ensuring you have better control all through. It is the best lawn sweeper for pine needles, thanks to the reinforced brushes.

Finding a balance in the functionality and quality of lawn sweepers can be quite a challenge. Luckily, this design seems to have it all figured out. The large hopper, stable wheels, and quality brushes all add up to its long-lasting quality.

Pros

Cons

Yard Commander 42-inch Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

I will admit I was a little skeptical about adding this lawn sweeper to the list. But, it has so much potential and can be the perfect choice for beginners in lawn care. The design is simple, seamless, and easy to figure out. On this note, it is less of a hassle putting up and setting it in place to sweep.

This 42-inch tow-behind lawn sweeper is ideal for clearing twigs, grass clippings, and leaves. It comes with a 12.9 cubic foot nylon hopper that is super easy to empty as you go. If you are worried about the quality, this lawn sweeper will prove you wrong and stand the test of time, thanks to the rust-resistant powder coating on the metal parts.

Pros

Cons

Brinly STS-427LXH Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper

If I were to choose between the different types of lawn sweepers, I would go for the tow-behind design. This, like this model, is easy to use and works well for different sizes of lawns. The Brinly 42-inch is the best lawn sweeper for grass clippings and pine needles. It also works well for old grass after dethatching, leaving your lawn in the best condition.

How about the design?

The sweeper features easy height adjustment allowing you to choose the most appropriate height. Additionally, the twist-lock feature ensures the height remains consistent even when sweeping over uneven terrain. The 20-cubic foot hamper is large enough, and together with the 42-inch sweep, this model is efficient and time-saving.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 42SWP22 Sweeper

This lawn sweeper from Ohio Steel is quite unique from others on the list. But that does not mean it is any challenging or hectic to operate. In fact, it is one of the simplest designs on the market and ultimately one of the best for regular sweeping.

Why?

It features a long 42-inch sweeper, which is excellent for a medium to a large lawn. With this one, you will only need a few rounds to sweep the entire yard. I also love that it comes with a comprehensive guide on how to use it, including a set of assembly instructions. On this note, I recommend it if you are a beginner and looking for a simple option.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 50SWP26 PRO Sweeper

I love to see the different models brands have, just to compare and see the best features of each. This is why I included this model from Ohio Steel. It is a little different from the 42-inch, but the functionality and efficiency are the same.

It looks like an advancement from the 42-inch and comes in a more robust and stable form. It features solid steel for all metal components to ensure it lasts long and works well each time. It features a 26 cubic foot bag, which is larger than most other options. On this note, the sweeper is ideal for large lawns where you need to clear a whole lot of things.

Pros

Cons

Agri Fab 45-0492 Lawn Sweeper

This Agri Fab model had to make it to the list. It is one of the best in terms of quality and a perfect choice for a regular user. The 44-inch lawn sweeper works well for any size of the lawn. It features a 25 cubic foot hopper, which empties pretty quickly as you go.

Additionally, it comes with a height adjustment lever fitted with an easy-to-use indicator. This feature ensures it never slips and provides optimum performance at any height. More to this, the improved dump lever works seamlessly to operate without you leaving the tractor seat.

Pros

Cons

Earthwise LSW70021 Lawn Sweeper

Most lawn sweepers on the market are tow-behind models, but I found this push lawn sweeper. It is the perfect choice for a beginner that does not have a tractor and works well for small lawn maintenance.

How well does it perform, though?

It comes with a 21-inch brush-width which, although smaller from most designs, works well for regular use. It features a spinning rake-like action to sweep clippings and leaves off the lawn surface into a collection bag. The best thing is that the height is adjustable, allowing you to customize it to match your needs.

Pros

Cons

Scotts LSW70026S Push Lawn Sweeper

Another option if you are looking for a push lawn sweeper is this model from Scotts. It is designed for regular use and features a 26-inch sweeping width- a few inches more than the Earthwise model. On this note, it provides the perfect balance of size and effectiveness.

How?

The body is made of lightweight yet high-strength ABS plastic. This material is weather-resistant and suits regular use outdoors. Additionally, it ensures the lawn sweeper is lightweight enough to maneuver and reach every part of your lawn. The model is small but covers quite a distance when sweeping.

Pros

Cons

Ohio Steel 4222V2 Lawn Sweeper

Ohio Steel has quite a number of lawn sweepers. But, this one, in particular, caught my eye. It is simple yet functional to suit different needs as far as lawn sweeping is concerned. On this note, it comes with an 11-inch spiraled polypropylene brush that sweeps efficiently even at low speeds.

One outstanding feature is the solid tension tube. It holds the collection bag in an open position, which saves you the hassle of installing tension rods. Also, the sweeper has numbered brush height settings on the size, making it easy for you to monitor while adjusting the height.

Pros

Cons

Buyer’s Guide: Choosing the Best Lawn Sweeper

What is a Lawn Sweeper?

Starting in the gardening world and have no idea what a lawn sweeper is? It is a gardening tool, just like a lawnmower designed to sweep and collect debris, leaves, and grass clipping from the lawn’s surface.

When you trim your grass using either a zero turn lawn mower or a simple slasher, the loose grass chipping, together with leaves and twigs from your garden, need to be removed. This is where a lawn sweeper comes to play.

A lawn sweeper features brushes that are connected to a rotating shaft. In a rotating action, the brushes comb through the lawn to collect debris. The debris, leaves, and other materials are then collected in an attached hopper or collection bag; that you can quickly empty after sweeping.

The Different Types of Lawn Sweepers

Lawn sweepers come in various types, and if you are buying one for the first time, the different styles can be confusing. Here are the types available.

Tow-Behind Lawn Sweepers

Tow behind lawn sweepers are the most common ones on the market. They are convenient to use, and you only need to hook to a riding lawn mower, ATV, or a side-to-side. Additionally, this type is designed to suit different needs with the large capacity of the collection bag.

This design makes them suitable for large lawns where you do not have to empty the bag after each stroll. Talking of emptying, some models of tow-behind lawn sweepers come with unique features for easy emptying.

Most models have a lever or handle that you lift to empty the contents of the bag. After emptying, you only need to return the handle to the original position and continue sweeping.

This type of lawn sweeper is excellent for more extensive lawns. However, they might not work well if a section of the yard tends to hold water. In such a case, the sweeper can easily clog with mud, needing a lot of work to clean.

Push Lawn Sweepers

This type is relatively common, but there are not that many models on the market. Push-style sweepers are great for small properties where cleaning is not extensive.

If you have a lawn with few or no trees, a push lawn sweeper would be the best choice. It works well to collect grass clippings and leaves but requires a bit more effort than tow-behind models.

It is important to note that push models do not hold as much material as tow-behind ones. On this note, they require frequent emptying, especially if your lawn is large. Also, they need pushing as the name suggests, which, although a good workout, can be time-consuming.

Power Sweepers

These are designed for large properties where cleaning needs to be completed in a short time. The sweepers come in push style and tow-behind style that you can hook to a tractor. If you have a sizeable hilly lawn, attaching a power sweeper to your lawnmower can be convenient, less stressful, and quick.

Speaking of lawnmowers and hills, here are great lawnmowers for hills, if you have that type of terrain.

Power sweepers are different from the other two types in that they run on gasoline engines. Like the push and tow-behind models, they have brushes that comb the surface of the lawn to sweep. However, the brushes spin faster, which means they clear a small patch of grass thoroughly in a short time.

Factors to Consider when Buying a Sweeping Lawn Sweeper

A lawn sweeper can save you valuable time and clean up your property thoroughly. But, you need to find one that works great for your needs to ensure quality results all through. Regardless of how much money you spend on a model, understanding the features ensures you get the best value for your money. Here are the factors to consider.

Sweeping Path

The sweeping path width varies from one model to another. This number refers to the amount of ground the brushes can cover in one pass. For example, most push-style lawn sweepers have sweeping paths between 21 and 26 inches. This is why they take longer to clean a large lawn as they cover a small distance in one pass.

Tow-behind sweepers, on the other hand, have much wider paths going as wide as 50 inches. This means they take fewer passes and complete the job quicker than push ones. Ultimately, you will not need to empty the bag as often.

Lawn Size

How much space do you intend to sweep? If you have a small lawn with a tiny patch of grass, then a push-style lawn sweeper can work well. If you have an extensive yard, entirely covered in grass, then you might want to consider a tow-behind or a power sweeper. You might have to invest more, but the convenience of cleaning your lawn in less time will not compare to the price.

Capacity of the Hopper

The capacity of the hopper depends on the size of the lawn sweepers. As much as it is different for different models, it is still an essential factor to keep in mind. If you do not want to keep emptying it every few feet, finding a sweeper with a large-capacity hopper will save you the hassle.

Large-capacity hoppers measure up to 25 cubic feet. Keep in mind, though; 25 cubic feet of grass clipping can weigh quite a lot, so you should consider sweepers with a dump feature. This will save your back and arms from the strain of tipping the hopper.

Brush to Wheel Ratio

Lawn sweepers come with cylindrical brushes that sweep clippings, grass, and debris from the lawn into the hopper. The wheels of the sweeper drive the brushes to spin faster than the wheels turn.

This happens through a transmission that multiplies the times the brushes run in relation to the wheels. How is this important to note? The higher the ratio, the more times the brushes will spin per the times the wheels rotate.

Overall Quality

This is a no-brainer but certainly one of the most important factors to keep in mind. Like any other tool, you should consider the quality in terms of materials, features, and overall functionality. You want to get the best value for your money by checking how each element adds to the sweeper’s functionality.

You do not need a top-rated industrial model, but you might need to spend quite a bit for quality that will last. High-end models often withstand regular use and are easy to use in the long run.

When it comes to quality, consider the type of material used. Plastic ones work well, but they might not hold up well if you use the sweeper regularly. Instead, go for those with heavy-duty steel components that can withstand the impact.

Also, like lawnmower blades, a little mishap in the quality of brushes can damage your lawn. Consider the quality and evaluate what other users have to say about the effectiveness of the brushes. Also, I recommend finding lawn sweepers with adjustable height to allow customization while in use.

FAQs

Should I leave grass clippings on the lawn?

Well, this is a question of what your end goal is? Removing grass clippings from the lawn will bring about your lawn’s aesthetic look and keep it tidy. Leaving the clippings on the lawn will give them a chance to decompose and release nutrients back to the soil. The process will take quite some time, so if you do not mind an unkempt lawn for a few days, then this is an option.

Which is better; lawn sweeper or bagger?

The choice between a lawn sweeper and bagger depends on the size and condition of your lawn. If you have a large yard, a sweeper would be the best bet for the job, thanks to the capacity and efficiency.

If the grass is wet, a lawn bagger might not be the best option. Although sweepers also have difficulties on wet grass, they do a much better job than baggers. Baggers are great at cleaning dry leaves, pine needles, and dry grass but not suitable for cones.

Can you use a lawn sweeper while mowing?

Yes. But, this is only possible if you have a tow-behind lawn sweeper and a riding lawnmower. On this note, you can hook the sweeper onto the mower and collect the clippings as you go. For other types of sweepers, you will have to finish clipping first then sweep later.

Will a lawn sweeper pick up apples?

Lawn sweepers are designed to collect loose materials on the surface of the lawn. If it comes across a heavier item such as a branch, stone, or in this case an apple, it will most likely push it forward or tip it backward.

Will a lawn sweeper pick up thatch?

A lawn sweeper can pick up thatch after dethatching. They are designed to pick up any loose material on the surface, hence ideal for sweeping thatch. Some models come with a dethatching kit that pulls thatch while the sweeper collects it.

How long should you let the grass grow before cutting?

Ideally, the grass should attain a minimum height of about 3.5 inches from the ground before cutting it for the first time. This can take anywhere between 8 t0 10 weeks, depending on the conditions. When you are ready to cut, be sure to follow proper cutting techniques to preserve the grass’s quality.

A good idea is to get blade sharpeners for your lawnmower blades and ensure they are in the best state for a clean cut.

How should I maintain a lawn sweeper?

While using the sweeper, ensure you empty the hopper as often as possible. Ideally, you should empty the contents before it fills up to the top to prevent weighing it down. Also, ensure you clean up the hopper after use to avoid mold and mildew buildup.

Before using the sweeper, chop, or mulch, cut the debris in your yard. This will reduce the amount of work it has to do, adding to its quality in the long run. It will also save you much valuable time and will prevent clogging on the brushes.

Summary

It is no doubt that a lawn sweeper is essential for regular lawn maintenance. It not only saves you valuable time but also ensures your lawn is clean and tidy. The options above are a great starting point if you are looking for a lawn sweeper.

My favorite turns out to be the Agri Fab 42-inch Tow Lawn Sweeper. It is sturdy, easy to assemble, and effective. It provides excellent value for money, and although the instructions seem quite inadequate, the design is pretty simple to figure out. Find your favorite, and enjoy the convenience while keeping your lawn in order.

Different grass seeds will act completely differently in different regions, and with different amounts of water and foot traffic.

It pays to get it right!

I’m going to help you get it right first time so that you can be rewarded with a healthy lawn.

Keep reading to learn all about the different types of grass seed and how to choose between them.

How to Choose Grass Seed

Different types of grass seed are suited to different climates and growing conditions. Some grass seed types can handle a drought while others need regular watering. Different grass seed options also vary in their hardiness when it comes to foot traffic.

It’s also not usually best practice to buy just once species of grass seed. Usually, you’ll buy a mix in order to provide a bit of resilience and balance out the pros and cons of different varieties.

It can all sound a bit overwhelming and many people are left wondering – what type of grass seed do I need?

Luckily, if you know the answers to a few basic questions surrounding the temperature, water availability, shade and soil type of your yard, the choice should be fairly straightforward.

 (If you already have a bag of seed that you’d like to use and you’re wondering whether grass seed goes bad, have a read of this article to learn all about the shelf life of grass seed and how to maximize it.)

The table below will sum up the main differences between the most common grass seed options. I’ll go into more detail afterward if you want to know more.

Growing Conditions

The growing conditions that your region and your individual yard will provide for your lawn are the deciding factors in which type of grass seed to choose.

Generally speaking, first you’ll narrow down the choices to either cool season or warm season varieties based on the region you live in. Then you’ll look at how much sun and foot traffic your individual lawn will be exposed to and what your water availability is.

Sun Versus Shade

The number of hours of sun versus shade that your lawn will get is a pretty key factor in deciding what type of grass to go with. Some grasses need a lot of sun while some are happy with being in the shade for most of the day.

Generally speaking, warm-season grasses are less tolerant of shade than cool-season grasses.

Water

Water is a big deal. There isn’t enough of it in many parts of the world so using it on our lawns is not the most responsible choice.

Most of the time, when people are wondering ‘what grass seed should I use for a low maintenance lawn?’, they’re thinking in terms of water usage.

So, if you live in a region prone to droughts or hot, dry summers, choosing grasses that are drought-tolerant, or combining varieties, can ensure you have a green lawn without needing to irrigate.

Temperature

The temperature may be the biggest factor in deciding between cool season and warm-season grasses.

Cool-season grasses typically grow during fall and spring and go dormant in the summer, while warm-season grasses go dormant in winter.

Cool-season grasses typically do better in the northern regions, while warm season grasses do better in the south.

Foot Traffic

Different grasses cope with different amounts of foot traffic and general wear and tear.

But if your lawn is going to be exposed to heavy foot traffic, then you’ll want to choose a grass type that can handle it.

Soil Type

There are a wide range of different soil types depending on pH, texture, nutrient density and proximity to the coast (salt exposure).

Knowing what kind of soil you have and matching it to the type of grass that is suited for that soil is helpful for ensuring the success of your lawn.

You can do a simple at-home soil test to work this out.

Cool Season Grasses

Choosing grass seed might seem overwhelming. But really once you figure out the main criteria for your yard based on the factors above, there won’t be too many options to choose from!

These cool-season grasses are all popular throughout the northern regions of the U.S.

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky Bluegrass is well suited to the temperate summers, cool springs and falls, and cold winters of the Northeast. However, despite its temperate preferences, it likes a lot of sun so is well suited to large parks and playing fields.

It is an attractive deep green color when it is well watered, but goes dormant and loses its color if left without water during a hot summer. For this reason it is well suited to combining with ryegrass which helps with greening things up a little quicker.

Kentucky Bluegrass is also popular with young families or people who know their lawn will get a lot of foot traffic. It is more durable than the fescues and self-mending, so a dead spot will recover by itself without needing re-seeding.

Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial Ryegrass likes similar conditions to Kentucky Bluegrass and does well throughout the Northeast and Midwest. It is an attractive deep green grass with a fine texture that is surprisingly durable, coping well with foot traffic.

It will go dormant during a drought but recover easily in the fall once water comes on the scene again.

Ryegrass is also a popular species to patch repair and overseed an already established lawn that needs some improvement. However, make sure you are using perennial ryegrass and not annual ryegrass, or your repairs will only last one season!

If you’re interested in learning more about overseeding, I have an article all about overseeding weedy lawns that will be helpful.

Read more about Kentucky Bluegrass versus Perennial Ryegrass here.

Tall Fescue

Tall Fescues are a popular choice in the dryer areas of the Pacific Northwest as well as through the transition zone (the central strip of states from Kansas to the Atlantic Coast).

Despite being cool-season grasses, they are relatively heat-tolerant owing to deep roots.

Durable Tall Fescue can be mixed successfully with Kentucky Bluegrass and Perennial Ryegrass for year-round color.

Read more on Fescues versus St Augustine here.

Fine Fescue

Fine Fescues are popular throughout the northern regions, though not as common as the Ryegrasses, Kentucky Bluegrass, and Tall Fescue.

Fine Fescue copes well with shade and cold conditions and like ryegrass, is relatively disease resistant. But it’s not as hard-wearing so won’t cope with as much foot traffic as other varieties.

There are a few different varieties of Fine Fescue grass, including Sheep Fescue, Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, and Hard Fescue.

Warm Season Grasses

If you’re wondering how to choose grass seed for the southern regions of the U.S., one of these warm-season grasses will likely tick the right boxes.

Bermuda

Bermuda grass is the most popular lawn grass in the hot and humid Southeast. It doesn’t mind salt or droughts making it great for coastal locations too.

While Bermuda grass does require some water, it requires a lot less than most species making it still the most commonly used variety in the hot and dry Southwest region as well.

Bermuda grass goes dormant in the winter if temperatures remain below 40˚F for too long, which means it will go a little brown. But, it has a deep root system and will recover easily in the spring and return to its dense, dark green state as soon as a little water is on the scene.

Combining Bermuda grass with Ryegrass can be a good option for year-round color as the cool season Ryegrass will be green while the Bermuda grass is dormant, and then as the Ryegrass dyes off for summer, the Bermuda grass will already be green.

Read up more on Bermuda grass and Bahia grass here.

Bahia Grass and Centipede Grass

Bahia grass and Centipede grass reign in the hot and humid deep south and gulf coast regions. They are quite coarse grasses compared to cool-season varieties.

Bahia grass in particular is very hardy as well, resistant to most pests and disease and copes pretty well with foot traffic.

Centipede grass is very low maintenance. It out-competes weeds and copes well with poor soil quality, not requiring fertilizer or regular mowing.

Read more about Centipede versus Bermuda grass here.

St Augustine

St Augustine likes heat and humidity making it great for the southern regions. It has a reasonable drought tolerance but is not quite as good as Bahia grass or Centipede grass in this respect.

It has quite a coarse texture and grows quickly but doesn’t tolerate too much shade.

Read more about Bahia grass versus St Augustine here.

Zoysia

Zoysia is a warm-season grass but copes well with cooler temperatures and can be popular in a range of regions, particularly in the transition zone.

It is deep-rooted so can cope well with periods of drought and also copes really well with foot traffic despite its finer texture.  Zoysia does go dormant at cooler temperatures but holds on to more of its color than other warm-season grasses and recovers faster, making it a popular choice.

Read more about Centipede Grass versus Zoysia here.

Clover – The Sustainable Alternative

You might be surprised to see this as an option here. Many people think of clover as a weed that they need to eliminate from their lawn. But in times gone by, clover was deliberately included in lawn seed mixes for its evergreen and nitrogen fixing properties.

Including some clover in your lawn reduces the need for fertilization and helps your lawn to stay green year-round.

Clover is hardy, low maintenance, and soft underfoot. Its only real con is that the flowers can attract bees which may be a hazard for small children – but bear in mind our pollinators need all the help they can get so this is only a con if there are small children around. If this is the case, simply mow the lawn to remove the flowers before letting the kids outside.

If you’d like to read more about clover lawns, I have an entire article dedicated to it here.

What about Seed Treatments?

Most grass seed comes pre-coated in bird repellent and anti-fungal treatments. Whether this is entirely necessary is a debate for another day. Ultimately it comes down to personal choice and an understanding of whether your region or the grass variety you have chosen is prone to many fungal diseases.

Some of the wetter parts of the country, particularly in the Pacific Northwest, and Northeast, might be more disease prone.

If you have small children, then going the organic route is always preferable. You may lose a few seeds to the birds, but if you keep the lawn well-watered and set up some bird scarers, you are unlikely to lose enough to make a noticeable difference to the success of your lawn.

Seed versus Turf

As you can see there are a lot of factors that can affect your grass seed choice! By now you might be wondering whether you should just buy some ready-to-roll turf, or maybe even veer away from living grass altogether and get some artificial turf for your yard.

If that’s the case, weigh up the pros and cons of sod versus turf in this article before you make your decision.

There are multiple pros and cons to both seeding a lawn and buying ready-to-roll turf.

A ready-to-roll lawn will give you an instant lush green lawn after the initial labor of laying it out and trimming it to size. Seeding a lawn requires labor over a longer period of time as you will likely have to wait a couple of months for the lawn to really establish itself, and depending on the quality of your soil, you may need to do some aerating first.

Both need a consistent supply of water to establish successfully, but, once established, a seeded lawn will be more durable than a ready-to-roll turf which may take longer for the roots to really grow deep enough to cope with short periods of drought.

If a ready-to-roll turf doesn’t get enough water, whole sections can die, leaving you with an ugly, shriveled lawn. If a seeded lawn doesn’t get enough water, the results will be a lot less dramatic with lower germination rates that can be fairly easily rectified with a little more seed and water.

Lastly, ready-to-roll turf is much more expensive than seed so if you have a large yard, ready-to-roll is not the most cost-effective solution.

Summary

As you can see, there are quite a few factors to consider when it comes to choosing the best types of grass seed for your lawn.

Whether overseeding an already established lawn that needs some help, or freshly seeding a new lawn, choosing the right kind of seed will go a long way towards helping your lawn flourish.

Are you about to sew some grass seed? Which type of grass seed did you choose? Feel free to share your experiences below and let me know how it worked out!

Perhaps you have some bare spots? Foot, vehicle, or pet damage? Maybe you’re thinking of starting a new lawn altogether?

You might even be considering adding a more drought-resistant or maintenance-friendly species to your yard.

There are a few ways to treat existing lawns or start new ones, and planting grass plugs is one of them.

But what are grass plugs?

Grass plugs are individual pots of a turfgrass species, usually between one and three inches wide/long.

Read on to find out how they can be used to benefit your lawn.

Lawn Grass Plugs – Too Long, Didn’t Read

If you don’t have the time to read the full article, here’s what we’ll be covering in summary:

Grass plugs are pots of established grasses, grown from seed, and used to start or rejuvenate lawns. They’re an alternative to laying sod, or overseeding from scratch.

They have several advantages (as well as disadvantages) and we’ll be exploring them all in a section towards the end of the article.

You can DIY with grass plugs grown at home, or you purchase them from sod farms, online, or big box stores.

Either way, you should stay with us, and by the end of this article you’ll have a good idea which is the best method for your lawn project.

What is a Grass Plug?

A grass plug is a small, individual pot of grass, grown especially for lawn establishment, maintenance, and care.

Keep reading for more information on growing your own, or research online for the type of grass plugs that are available.

Alternatively, you can contact your local sod farm to find out the best species of grass plug to use in your zone.

Grass Plug Uses

What are grass plugs used for?

Grass plugs are useful for the following three reasons:

An ideal use of grass plugs, for example, is for spot-treating areas that have been damaged by dog urine. It’s also great for helping areas of your lawn to recover after winter.

Can you grow your own grass plugs? You most certainly can! Read on to find out how!

Growing Grass Plugs

As an alternative to buying established grass plugs, you might want to try and save some money by growing your own.

Aside from the benefits to your pocket, growing your lawn plugs indoors in a controlled environment can be more successful than trying to overseed in your yard. You won’t have to deal with birds and squirrels – for one thing.

All you need is some grass plug pots, a bag of seed, and a seed starter/compost mix. Water the seeds a little every day until they germinate.

Remember – the temperature of the soil needs to be between 50-55-degrees to stand the best chance of germination, so you might need to use a heat lamp if growing in a garage or basement in colder seasons.

Then they can help you plant them when the time comes!

Watch the video below, which shows you how one gardener grows some buffalo grass plugs from scratch.

How to Plant Grass Plugs

Planting grass plugs is a relatively straightforward process, but it certainly takes more effort than overseeding.

Follow the guide below for steps on how to plant grass plugs.

The new plugs might take up to a year to become properly established, especially if you’re treating a larger area.

During that time, you should be maintaining them as you would an established lawn. Follow our complete month-by-month lawn care guide for more information.

And make sure you have all the necessary lawn care tools for the job!

A word of caution, however – take care when doing high-stress maintenance on your new lawn – such as dethatching, aerating, and applying pre- and post-emergent weed killers.

It’s important you allow the lawn plugs to develop strong roots, and grow into healthy plants, before hacking at it with tools or dousing with harsh chemicals.

With fertilizers, for example, I highly recommend making your own DIY organic product – and you can follow that link to find out how.

It starts with good composting, and this article has more excellent eco-friendly lawn care tips for you to try!

For mowing, you should wait until the grass is at least three inches in height, and never take off more than 1/3-inch each time you trim. This article on what height to cut grass will tell you more.

*And don’t forget – using harsh chemicals and similar products on fledgling lawns is not advised. Take care when using weed killers, for example.

Don’t use any residual herbicides that will stay in the soil for a long time and potentially prohibit new grass growth. This article on the different types of herbicides is an excellent guide.

Likewise, the same can be said for fertilizer. It is possible to have too much of a good thing – particularly when trying to establish a new lawn. Check out when to fertilize new grass for more info.

Grass Plugs vs Overseeding vs Laying Sod

Now you’re more familiar with this type of lawn care, it’s time to put it up against the other two main lawn rejuvenation practices.

Overseeding and laying sod.

If we include planting grass plugs in that list – which of the three methods is right for you? Let’s take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Grass Plug PROS

Grass Plug CONS

Overseeding PROS

Overseeding CONS

Laying Sod PROS

Laying Sod CONS

So, what’s the verdict?

There isn’t a clear “winner,” as each option has its place, depending on individual needs. The beauty is – there’s always going to be a way to achieve a beautiful lawn, or to improve an existing one.

The best way to figure out which method is right for you, is to think about your goals, the area that needs to be covered, your timeframe, and your budget.

Then, take a look at our pros and cons guide above, and the solution should jump out at you!

The video below offers tips and advice for installing St Augustine grass plugs (a species that is unavailable as seed), and can be used as a general guide to the process of grass plugging.

FAQs

Are grass plugs worth it?

Yes. Providing you’re using them correctly, grass plugs are definitely worth it for repairing an existing lawn or establishing a new one.

Particularly if you’re spot-treating certain areas, and/or you don’t have the budget for laying down grass sod.

However, if you’re looking for superfast results (that garden party is only a few weeks away), then laying sod is going to be the better option.

How long does it take for grass plugs to fill in?

Plug roots should take between 7-14 days to become established in the soil, but it can take up to a year (and sometimes more) for the plugs to properly cover, or “fill in” an area.

It depends on so many factors, including the species used, the soil conditions, the size of the lawn, and the lawn care tools and products employed in its maintenance.

Do grass plugs work?

Yes. But it’s not guaranteed. You need to put the work in to make sure they have the best chance of success.

Ensuring the soil is healthy and suitable for the plugs to take root is essential, and probably the number one reason why grass plugs fail if and when they do.

Summary

What are grass plugs? Another useful method in creating your dream lawn, that’s what!

While they might not be for everybody, they can be very useful for achieving desired results – if you’re prepared to put in the work, and have a little patience.

Let us know your thoughts on grass plugs in the comments. Have you used them yourself? Do you have any tips or advice you’d like to share about installing them? Drop us a line!

Stay safe out there, and happy plugging!

There’s a fine balance to be had and a strict regime to follow if you want to achieve the most beautiful lawn in the neighborhood.

In this article, we’re focussing on lawn mowing, with the ultimate guide to doing it right, packed with essential lawn mowing tips to make your neighbors green with envy.

It’s just one part of getting your lawn looking immaculate.

Nobody said perfection was easy.

The Best Tips for Mowing Lawns – Too Long, Didn’t Read

Gardening takes time, life gets in the way. If you’re in a hurry, for your convenience I’ve listed the top lawn mowing tips right here:

14 Lawn Mowing Tips for a Professional Looking Green Grass

Choosing the Right Mower

One of the most important lawn mowing tips is that you have to choose the best equipment for the job. Lawncare equipment has developed a lot in the last couple of years, so you will have plenty of options to choose from.

Doing the research will help you narrow the list down.

First, you need to determine the size of your yard and the type of terrain you are working with. If you have a smaller yard, push lawnmowers are excellent because they will give you an even cut.

Not to forget these machines are quiet and cordless. Riding lawnmowers are more suitable for larger spaces. And if you’re lucky enough to have a particularly huge garden, I would suggest checking out these commercial zero-turn lawnmowers instead.

Most lawns are not completely flat, but if you are dealing with bumpy terrain, riding lawnmowers can conquer them easily.

Rolling hills may look spectacular, but maintaining them can be a lot of work. Once again, a good riding lawn mower for hills can help you out with this problem.

But you don’t have to spend outrageously when it comes to a grass cutting machine. It’s a common misconception that you need an expensive, top-of-the-line model to achieve professional results.

With the right application, it’s possible to have a stunning finish even with one of these cheap lawnmowers – so long as you follow the lawn mowing tips and tricks in our guide.

Sharpening Lawnmower Blades

Any lawn care expert will tell you that a dull mower blade will ruin your turf faster than a hoard of invasive pests.

Hacking at the grass blades with anything less than a keen edge can take divots and chunks out of the ground, and it’s guaranteed to leave you with an uneven cut and an unhealthy lawn.

In spite of this tip being commonplace, homeowners often forget to sharpen lawnmower blades.

Which is astounding considering just how much of an instant impact this single piece of advice can have on the look and feel of your lawn.

Check out this article and find the best lawnmower blade sharpener for your machine.

If you’re using a gas-powered mower, remember to take out the spark plug before removing the blade.

You also need to ensure the lawnmower blade is balanced – otherwise, you could damage your mower and the turf.

But if you’re not comfortable sharpening the blade by yourself – or you simply want a more professional finish – you can always take it to a local sharpening service and have it done by an expert.

Finally, if you think the blade is beyond repair, check out this article on the best lawnmower blades on the market and pick yourself up a new one.

Clear the Yard

You’d be amazed at how many people completely forget this essential step, fire up the mower and just blast over all kinds of yard waste and debris.

It’s not good for your lawn, and it’s certainly not good for your lawnmower.

Get out there with a wheelbarrow (or one of these awesome lawn tractor dump carts if you have a larger property) and clean that (sometimes literal) crap up.

Branches, sticks, leaves, stones, yard waste, dog poo, kid’s toys, dead animals… the list is long for what can lay strewn across your lawn and cause you problems when trying to mow.

Get rid of it before even attempting your first cutting pass. Your lawn will thank you – and so will your mower.

Dethatching

Yes, I’m including this as part of the mowing process, because it can seriously make a difference to the overall look, feel, and health of your lawn.

Thatch is the name given to a buildup of dead grass and material that can choke existing grass and prevent it from thriving.

As such, removing this debris is a very good idea.

The good news is – you don’t have to do it every time you mow. In fact, that would be detrimental to the lawn and would eventually rake it bare.

Dethatching is best done in the early spring or in the fall, around about the time you’re thinking of overseeding, and/or mowing for the first/last time.

It involves using a rake or dethatching machine/tool to scrape up this dead material and remove it from the surface of your lawn. You can see some examples of such devices if you read this article.

This will help boost grass growth, assist in preventing weeds, and keeps yard material from clogging up your mower. It’s a triple win.

Identify Your Grass Type

Now we’re getting serious.

In order to achieve the best possible cut on your lawn – you should identify your grass type, so you know the length in which you need to cut it, as well as how long you should wait between cuts.

First, you should pay attention to which region you’re in – if you have warm season grass, or cool season grass.

It’s not rocket science – south hot, north cold. Like in Game of Thrones.

Check out the video below for more grass-identifying information, which will provide more help when it comes to achieving the perfect mow for your conditions.

Bear in mind you don’t have to do this, and so long as you have a rough idea of how to treat the grass in your region you should be fine.

It’s just for anyone who wants to go that one step further and get their lawn care down to an exact science.

When to Mow

Most homeowners make the mistake of simply mowing their lawn because it’s the weekend, or whenever they have a day off, but this regular, monotonous schedule can actually damage your grass.

Instead, you should pay attention to your grass type as mentioned above, the conditions, the season, and how long the grass actually is.

After you’ve checked your grass type, the best way to know when to cut it is to wait until it has passed its optimum cutting length.

Then, if we’re going by the 1/3 off rule, and you never trim more than 1/3 of the grass blades during a single mow session, you’ll have an idea how long you need to wait before getting the machine out of the shed.

When it comes to the best time of day to mow, you should be aiming to go out around mid-morning – after the early dew has evaporated.

In the early evening is the second best time, somewhere between five and six o’clock.

Don’t mow your lawn during the hottest part of the day as this can damage the grass as it’s already under a great deal of stress during this time. And so will you be under that blazing sun.

The key thing to remember is that you should never mow to set schedule. Be patient, steady your hand, and wait until the grass is at its optimum length for cutting.

This is especially true if you’ve just put down new seed, or you’re overseeding an existing lawn. Give the little guys time to get established before you go lopping their heads off.

And for more information on overseeding, check out this article on how to kick-start your lawn after winter.

Don’t Mow Low

It’s true that most homeowners don’t really care that much about the condition of their lawns.

It grows, they cut it short, the cycle continues.

I get it – people lead busy lives, and they don’t want to be constantly out in the garden worrying about the length of their grass.

So they scalp it as low as possible, in order to maximize the length of time before it needs to be cut again.

However, this is bad practice if you’re looking to achieve the best possible finish. In fact, it’s the number one lawn care mistake, and you can follow that link for 14 more.

Instead, you should be looking at only taking 1/3 of the grass blade off each time, and fixing your mower at the highest possible setting for the type of grass you have (see the tip above).

I can hear the groans at the back – yes, this does mean you need to mow sooner and more often – but it’s going to be well worth it when you see the improved condition and health of your lawn.

The science behind this is that longer blades of grass have more chance of developing a strong root system if given the chance to grow.

They have more time to get properly established in the soil, and drink up deeper water and nutrients, instead of spending all that time simply trying to grow again after getting scalped.

In turn, this helps them crowd out weeds, as taller grass blades shade the soil, preventing undesirable plants from taking hold.

Just remember to suit the height of the cut to the type of grass you have – and you’ll be enjoying a lush green carpet in no time.*

*Actually it takes a while and a lot of patience – I just wanted to finish that sentence off.

Don’t Mow Wet

One of the cardinal “don’t” rules of lawn mowing is to never cut wet grass. It can result in a seriously botchy job, like Edward Scissorhands on acid.

Furthermore, not only is it a nightmare to clean up, but it can ruin your mower and clog it up real good.

And the terrors of mowing wet grass don’t stop there – as it can be extremely dangerous operating outdoor power equipment with high speed blades on slippery surfaces. Just ask Accident and Emergency.

So, always mow dry, after the morning dew, and not right after a rain shower. Wait as long as you can to give the grass a chance to dry out.

Unless, of course, you absolutely have to mow wet, in which case I highly advise you to read this article before you do.

And as it’s still essential that your lawn receives enough moisture to thrive and survive, I would suggest heading over to check out this piece on how best to water your lawn.

Pattern and Technique

We all dream of having that perfect striped lawn, one that the groundskeeper of a sporting stadium would be proud of.

And you don’t have to be a professional to achieve it. With the right equipment and mowing pattern, you can get this desirable look with a bit of patience and practice.

Even if you’re not interested in stripes, it’s important to have a consistent mowing technique.

Mowing should be done in a back and forth pattern, and at a steady pace. Too fast, and you’ll miss areas, too slow and your mower might get clogged up with material.

Aim to overlap each pass by an inch or two – to ensure you cover the whole lawn. I like to use the mower wheels as a guide, but you can also use the edge of the cutting deck.

But here’s the pro-tip – every time you mow, go in a different direction than the pattern you did on the previous cut.

Not only will this keep things interesting for you, and you’ll get to really know your garden, but your grass will stand tall, and the turf won’t develop wheel ruts from the same lawnmower pass each time.

For extra tips and tricks, see this article on how to achieve a ballpark striped lawn. Sure, it mentions baseball, but it could be just about any sport where a lush turf is admired by spectators and players alike.

Mulch Yes – Bag No

Ahhh the endless debate about what to do with the grass clippings. Should you mulch, bag, or even side discharge the now deceased little fellows?

The short answer, is you should leave them on the lawn – and there are many benefits to converting to this practice.

As you’re only taking a third off the top (providing you’re adhering to our lawn care advice), you’re not actually going to have that giant bag of clippings you so fear left heaped on your lawn.

These small clips will break down quickly, and introduce much-needed nutrients back into the soil.

The trick is to make sure you’re cutting little and often – otherwise you risk smothering the ground with material which can ruin your lawn and encourage weeds.

So, do away with the bag and set your mower up for mulching – at the very least you’ll be significantly reducing the amount of yard waste, as well as the constant trips to the ever-increasing giant compost monster in the corner.

If you still need more encouragement to give this a go, check out this article on the top six benefits of mulching grass.

Edging

Finishing the edges after a lawn mowing session is the bane of many homeowners – especially if you’ve no defined borders and/or lots of obstacles in the way.

Where possible, you should run the wheels of your mower over a concrete edge or patio at the border of your lawn – thus eliminating the need to go over it with a string trimmer or grass shears.

If that’s not possible – or you still need to give it a tidy up, use garden grass shears to give the edges a nice neat trim.

Consider using a half-moon edger to create a defined edge to your lawn if you don’t already have one. It might be hard work, to begin with, but you’ll reap the benefits when you come to cut the grass again.

Alternatively, if you don’t fancy breaking your back, you can always use one of these gas-powered edgers to all but do the work for you.

And read this article on a trimmer versus an edger – to find out which one is right for you.

Finish with a Reel Mower

If you’re reely into lawn care, consider using a reel mower to provide the final finish. (Pun fully intended.)

Many lawn care pros swear by their push reel mowers to give the grass that extra sharp look, for the most beautiful cut possible.

They’re also ideal if you have any hard to reach areas, hilly terrain, and for negotiating obstacles. And they’re a great backup mower if your main machine happens to pack in.

Remember to use a steady pace, and you should achieve a precise, final trim you can be proud of.

Clean Up After Yourself

It’s a simple step, but one that is often overlooked (especially by the kids).

Clean up after yourself.

Put the tools away, make sure nothing is left on the lawn (other than the mulched clippings), and don’t leave your yard in a mess.

Not only is this good for your own psyche, but your lawn will be free to grow and thrive as it’s not being denied water, sun, and other nutrients thanks to something you left out there.

Continued Lawnmower Maintenance

You will almost certainly find that 80% of lawn problems are because of issues with the lawnmower itself, and 95% of statistics are made up on the spot.

Joking aside, a lawnmower in less than ideal condition is going to cause you all kinds of bother in your quest to achieve that coveted beautiful turf.

As such, it’s important to give your mower a regular look over – and not just once a year. This is especially true if you’re using it often or more than usual.

Check out this article on lawnmower maintenance – which can be done at any time, and covers all types of machines.

At the very least, your blades should be sharp, your deck clean, and your fuel and oil fresh and checked regularly – if using a gas-powered mower.

Summary

Cutting the grass incorrectly can have serious consequences for the condition of your lawn.

But with our list of the best lawn mowing tips, you’ll soon be on your way to a professional finish that will shine like a beacon of green health in the neighborhood.

Let me know if you have any grass cutting tips and tricks you’d like to share with the community – especially if there’s anything I might have missed.

Happy mowing!

Obviously, you’ll never find that one turf that suits all circumstances, and that goes for Bahia grass and St. Augustine alike.

However, these grasses are both pretty top-notch and depending on what you’re looking for in a grass these can both offer some great advantages.

If you struggle with picking a grass species perfect for your needs and wants, and you’re considering either Bahia grass or St. Augustine, read on to discover the main differences between the two as well as their pros and cons!

Key Differences Between Bahia Grass and St. Augustine Grass

Bahia Grass

Bahia grass can be found in warmer locations along the southern states of America as well as in Hawaii, too. Whilst predominantly limited in terms of popularity in these areas, this grass type offers great drought and heat resistance as well as a durability and low maintenance.

At a glance, Bahia grass is a tough cookie: it is a warm season perennial grass species that thrives in the summer. It’s great for gardens exposed to full sunlight and restricted water accessibility due to its extensive roots that grow deep into the soil. It is favorable along the Gulf Coast as well as deep south as it is unopposed to variating soil pH levels as well as nutrient content.

Originally used as a pasture grass when first introduced to America, this species of lawn is now widely used in agriculture, conservation, and erosion control programs as it can sustain itself when grown in compromising conditions.

Alongside its most common uses, Bahia grass is accepted as a great lawn choice for those with acreage or large garden spaces in general.

This warm-season grass forms deep roots which allows it to sustain better in sandy or infertile soils. It generally requires low maintenance and little water to keep it happy and healthy as well as needing very infrequent fertilization – an all-around winner for busy homeowners!

Bahia grass grows low and outwardly from stolons and the blades contain unsightly seed-heads that aid it in reseeding itself when they drop, however, this can be reduced with regular mowing.

As this is a summer season grass, it ideally needs to be sown in the Springtime for it to flourish in the summer heat. Whilst it can survive mild winters, when faced with the winter frost, Bahia grass becomes dormant and can turn brown.

Pros of Bahia Grass

Cons of Bahia Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions and Appearance

Bahia grass can be grown through seed or sod and is known to have a longer growth period than other grass types; this slow growth rate can sometimes cause weed issues in early establishment, however, is short lived once matured.

This species of grass creates a dense mat due to its stolons that allow it to grow low and close to the soil. The stems of this grass lay flush to the ground and held in place by its thick and fibrous roots.

The blades of this grass start short when young, however, can reach a height of 30cm when fully grown. These blades contain seed-heads that drop and propagate themselves, causing this grass to have an invasive aspect if left unmaintained.

Whilst Bahia grass prefers to grow in nutrient rich soils which are well-drained as well as acidic, it can also thrive in sandy or clay soils that are less fertile. The only preference that this grass has is that it is not well adapted to alkaline soils.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Whilst this grass is not among the MOST invasive of the grasses, it does have some invasive attributes.

When grown in ideal environments, such as in fertile soils, Bahia grass can grow rapidly at a rate of 70cm per week and if left unmaintained, can become very invasive.

Bahia grass can suffocate weeds due to its thick carpeted texture. This allows it to be aggressive in its environment as some plant species aren’t able to cultivate once Bahia grass has established itself.

Planting and Caring for Bahia Grass

Bahia grass can be grown through either sod or seed and requires little attention as it is usually very self-sufficient. The seeds can self-propagate when dropped onto the soil and although it is a slow process from there, the grass can easily sustain itself into maturity.

The best and most appealing part of this grass is its low management requirements!

Bahia grass is relatively low maintenance with the lowest rate of disease and pest issues compared to other warm season grasses. This grass does best when fertilized monthly and is not as needy as grasses such as Bermuda, which requires a heftier maintenance schedule.

Regular lawnmowing and care of Bahia grass, using the correct method, improves forage quality as well as stimulates growth, though it is known that mowing this grass can be difficult due to its woody stems.

Proper maintenance will aid in curbing its invasive behavior through proper watering techniques, to regular mowing.

St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine is a perennial warm season grass found natively in South and North America as well as in the Caribbean, too. This grass species makes for a great garden turf due to its heavy traffic threshold and weather-resistant qualities.

St. Augustine, or “Buffalo” grass, is known for its coarse texture and density which create a bounce when walked on. The strength of this grass is very much due to the thick carpet it creates which helps the plant to absorb and retain water better, allowing it to perform great as a heat and drought resistant option for many homeowners.

This grass finds hotter weather conditions favorable, therefore, is the definitive turf choice in Florida and central Texas where gardens are more likely to be exposed to full sunlight. Because of this preference, the location range of St. Augustine grass decreases as it reaches further north as it struggles to cope in cold weather.

As with many warm-season grasses, St. Augustine thrives due to its deep-root system which gives it its capability to survive with bouts of drought. This grass only grows through stolons – not rhizomes – which can grow to be several feet long and root at the nodes.

This growing behavior means this grass can become invasive if not maintained.

Pros of St. Augustine Grass

Cons of St. Augustine Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions and Appearance

St. Augustine has many variations; however, they all have similar characteristics in terms of behavior and maintenance requirements.

These grasses are a popular choice for a reason: they are definitely not fussy!

The soil in which St. Augustine thrives best is obviously preferred to be fertile, however, can actually also grow well in sandy soils as well as clay soils with a high range of pH levels ranging from 5 to 8.5, talk about versatility!

Another bonus of this grass is its high shade tolerance.

Many grass types grow through stolons as well as rhizomes, however, St. Augustine can only be established through stolons. These stolons are thick as hardy which make it a great garden turn for those who want a grass that can sustain heavy foot traffic; however, the only downfall is that because it doesn’t have the rhizomes for extra support, this grass may take longer to repair itself after damage.

Propagation of St. Augustine is through stolons, plugs or sods and when in its early establishment – around 7 to 10 days after planting – it does require some help in terms of care and maintenance, however, once it have matured and created stability in the soil, it can spread and propagate via its stolons on its own.

St. Augustine is very popular due to its vibrant and fresh color that can last for months. Its unique blue-green shade is an attraction to those who want a fresh – and healthy – looking lawn for long periods of time, but in winter this grass does have the risk of running into a certain level of dormancy when growth slows down, and the grass color fades.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Compared to other grass species, such as Bermuda and Kikuyu grass, St. Augustine is in the “low-risk” category of invasive grasses.

This is mostly attributed due to the fact that it spreads from stolons only, where as majority of grasses are assisted through growing with rhizomes too.

Whilst this grass is not aggressive by nature, it can block out weeds and also suffocate other plants that try to cultivate within it. This is down to its close and tight growth habit basically creates no room left for any other unwanted plants to sprout.

Planting and Caring for St. Augustine Grass

Sod, plugs, and stolons are the main ways in which this grass can be grown. When it is first laid, it is important that it is watered steadily for up to a week as this will create the foundation in which the roots can grow, after that this grass is pretty good in surviving with little water as it is great at retaining when it does get!

As I said above, the soil type is not a massive factor that dictates the health of this grass as it is really great in a variety of habitats, on top of this, this lawn is pretty much self-sustaining in that it is very low maintenance: needing mowing once a week or even two weeks with a rotary mower if possible (read more about the best lawn mowers for your needs), and fertilization is only needed once a month in spring and summer, its peak growing period.

St. Augustine grass, like Zoysia grass, can have a thatch issue due to its density. This can be solved through aeration using a garden fork or a rolling aerator. Other lawn care tools that can help prevent thatch problems include dethatching rakes and vertical mowers.

Other than that, caring for St. Augustine grass is pretty straight forward and doesn’t require a lot of effort.

Which One is Better – Bahia Grass or St. Augustine?

So, you’ve read up to here and you want to know which one is better?

I’ll tell you…

In my opinion, choosing which one is better depends on the type of grass you prefer; Bahia grass is known to be softer and lighter under the feet whereas St. Augustine can be rather coarse or rough.

If you’re choosing based on which one is cheaper – Bahia grass or St. Augustine – the average cost between them differs by around $115 per pallet of sod, with Bahia grass being cheaper.

They’re both so similar in terms of usefulness that deciding is definitely difficult, but you’ll have to consider the pros and cons of each to decide what you like best.

I have a particular liking towards Bahia grass as I find that it has all the great aspects of St. Augustine – and other warm-season grasses such as Zoysia – plus more! It is soft, dense and has that really great green color that shows health in a lawn. It out-grows weeds so you don’t really have to worry about that PLUS it has very few pest and disease problems!

Summary

St. Augustine and Bahia grass are both great lawn choices if you live in hotter climates and want a low maintenance yard, which, let’s be real, don’t we all?

St. Augustine is more commonly found in the south than Bahia grass but they both share some similarities in that they’re low maintenance, not fussy about their living arrangements and also relatively non-invasive so, really, they are both great choices for your garden!

Bahia and St. Augustine are great, but what do you think; which one is better?

If none fits your needs don’t worry. There are plenty of other types of grass seed to choose from.

I look forward to hearing your experience with these grass species as well as which one you thought won the debate!

Until next time…

The benefits are numerous – especially if you’re looking to establish new grass seed, improve drainage, and control weeds.

And while there are several ways in which you can achieve this with multiple tools, there are really only two main aerator types.

In this article, we take a look at the spike vs plug aerator, and try to figure out which one is the best, and which one is the right option for your lawn.

Let’s get stuck in.

Spike or Plug Aerator – In a Few Words

In our crazy-busy world, I can appreciate not everyone has the time to read through a full article on the differences between spike and plug aerators.

With that in mind, here’s the straight answer for anyone in a rush:

Of course, there is much more to it than that – including how we came to this conclusion, and some extra tips and advice for using each type of aerator.

So, read on if you’d like to understand a bit more about the advantages and disadvantages of each.

What is Lawn Aeration?

Without going into too much detail, (I’ve written a full lawn aeration guide you can discover at that link), Let’s briefly touch on what it actually is.

Lawn aeration is the practice of poking holes or removing plugs in the soil of established turf. You can also use it to loosen compact soil where no grass currently grows if need be.

But why would you do this?

There are a number of key benefits that lawn-care professionals will swear by – but perhaps the main reason is to improve the overall aesthetic and health of your lawn.

All plants need sunlight, water, and nutrients to thrive, and your grass is no different. If it’s being denied them with tight, compact soil, then it’s not going to be looking its best.

Imagine how you’d look and feel if you went without water for a day or two. More than three days and you’d likely be dead.

Compact soil can also encourage thatch build up – and not in a healthy way – which can be like a sponge when it comes to soaking up the natural goodness and preventing it from reaching the turf root system.

Check out this post on the differences between aerating and dethatching if you need to understand the two – and an adequately aerated lawn can seriously help with keeping thatch to a minimum.

And read this article on the top benefits for lawn aeration if you want to know more about why you should be including this as part of any essential gardening regimen.

Spike and Plug Aerators – The Differences

So, we know what lawn aeration does – but how do we achieve it?

Well, you can take a look at this article on the best lawn aerators on the market – but I would ask you to stay your clicking finger a moment longer.

You’ll notice there are different types of lawn aerators out there, but they can all be divided into two camps – spike or plug – each with their own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Spike Aerators

Spike aerators are identified by their solid metal tines that look not too dissimilar to a set of spikes – funnily enough.

They poke holes in the turf which decompacts the soil and allows water and nutrients to get down to the root system. Their main advantage over plug aerators, is that they don’t leave soil or mess on the lawn surface – which some people prefer.

However, if you imagine the action of a spike aerator, all it’s doing is forcing the soil downwards, and compacting it below the tine.

This is basically defeating the object.

While this might be a decent temporary solution – and can certainly help with quick drainage or spot treatment – it’s not nearly as effective as taking material out of the lawn.

Still, they have their place, and can be useful for speedy results, or if you don’t have immediate access to a plug aerator.

Types of Spike Aerator

Below, you’ll find some popular examples of spiked aerators. Some are more effective than others, and if you’re going down this route, choose a device or tool that’s suitable for the size of your lawn.

Garden Forks

The most basic type of spike aerator is actually a common garden fork. It’s likely you’ll already have one in your shed.

You can use it to poke holes in the turf, as it does pretty much exactly the same job as all the other spike aerators in this list.

This version by True Temper is probably one of the best on the market.

However, while a garden fork easily offers the most versatility of any aerating tool – it’s also the most backbreaking, and probably best reserved for very small plots of land.

Rolling/Push Aerators

Rolling or push aerators look similar to cylinder push mowers, in that they have a handle with a rotating drum attached to the end.

The difference is there are spikes instead of blades, and in theory, you roll the device over the turf, and it punctures holes as you go.

Some models require you to weigh the tool down with cinder blocks or bricks, such as this 16-inch rolling spike aerator from Agri-Fab.

Either way, it’s certainly more preferable than doing it tediously by hand with a fork, but it can still be something of an effort, and you need to make sure you’re physically up to the task.

Tow Behind Spike Aerators

If you happen to have a larger yard or garden, then you’ll no doubt have a garden tractor or some such vehicle.

(If you don’t, you can always take a look at this article on the best Cub Cadet, John Deere, and Husqvarna lawn tractors on the market – and treat yourself to a new toy.)

With such a machine, you can use a tow-behind spike aerator, such as this 40-inch version from Brinly-Hardy.

Homedepot.com

Again, you’ll need to weigh the tool down with appropriate bricks, but this will certainly help get the job done in no time, with just a few passes over your lawn required in order to complete the process.

Spiked Shoes

When I first saw these, I thought they were something of a gimmick, but I discovered they are a legitimate way to spike aerate a lawn.

You simply strap them on over your boots or shoes and take a stroll around your garden’s turf.

While I’ve not tried them personally, I must admit the jury is out when it comes to the reviews, and it appears they work for some folks but not for others.

The “need to be athletic” is mentioned in one review – and I think never a truer word was spoken.

I think this option is perhaps best left to the fitter and younger gardening generation out there. Better yet – stick them on the feet of your kids and send them out to play.

But if you have clay soil in your yard – I wouldn’t even bother.

Plug Aerator

Often known as core aerators, the plug version of the tool actually removes little “plugs” of soil from the turf, rather than simply poking holes in it.

They use hollow tines that drive into the turf to remove material.

And as you might expect, when it comes to solving the problem of compact soil, this method is much more effective.

So, what’s the downside?

There isn’t one – save the fact that it does leave little soil deposits on your lawn – which some homeowners don’t like.

They can be a bit of an eyesore for a while, and they do look like animal droppings.

However, they break down eventually and will nourish the topsoil and grass as they decompose. So as well as allowing the earth to breathe, you’ve also got yourself some natural fertilizer.

Now, isn’t that worth the price of a messy lawn surface for a week or two?

Types of Plug Aerator

Plug aerators tend to be heavier duty than their spiked counterparts, largely due to the fact that there’s more to them because of the way they work.

You still need to consider the size of your yard when making a choice.

Manual Plug Aerator

Special tools exist that are designed with one goal – to remove plugs of soil from your lawn.

They’re affordable, easy-to-use, and they work relatively well – depending on the quality of the product you’re using.

I have this Yard Butler manual aerator – and it works like a charm.

The problem is, it’s absolutely knackering. Manually removing the soil plugs from the tines after every stake into the ground can be tedious and time-consuming, too.

But if you need to aerate your lawn and get a workout, this comes highly recommended with the official YardThyme seal of approval.

Still, for small yards and gardens, a manual core aerator is a practical and affordable solution.

Core Aerator Machines

For anything larger than about 500 square feet, I would suggest a core aerator machine to do the job.

These are heavy, dedicated, gas-powered pieces of equipment that you push similar to a lawnmower, while the tines turn and remove plugs from your soil.

Unfortunately, such a machine is ridiculously expensive to buy, and really only purchased by lawn-care professionals who will use them on a more regular basis.

Especially when you consider you’re only likely to use it once every few years.

Still, if you’re interested, you can check out this Billy Goat model (link to mowersdirect.com) as a good example.

Renting seems to be the preferred option, and a local tool hire company should have one available.

But out of all the methods for aerating your lawn, I can safely say this is easily the most effective. Once you’ve done a pass with one of these machines, it’s unlikely your lawn will need to be aerated again for a while.

Tow Behind Core Aerator

Finally, there are tow-behind core aerators, that are very similar to their spiked counterparts.

The only real difference, is that they use those hollow tines to remove soil, rather than just a solid tine point.

This model from John Deere is a fine example, offering a 48-inch width with independent tines and a universal hitch to fit any lawn tractor.

I can confidently say that outside of using a dedicated aeration machine, this is a very close second when it comes to achieving success.

Homedepot.com

Liquid Aerators

Although it’s often overlooked in favor of the two methods mentioned above, there is a third option to decompact your soil, and that’s to use a special liquid aerator.

This example from LawnStar seems to be one of the most effective and popular choices, and it makes a decent alternative than doing all the physically demanding work yourself.

It’s environmentally friendly, and contains no harsh chemicals that might damage your lawn or other desirable plant life.

At the same time, it conditions the soil, while being capable of treating up to 30,000 square feet with an easy application using a tank or hose end garden sprayer.

Check out the video below to find out if this method is as successful as physical core aeration – and I think you might be in for a shock!

How Often Should You Aerate Your Lawn?

Thankfully, you don’t need to aerate your lawn that often as part of a gardening schedule – it’s certainly not like cutting the grass.

Professionals estimate you should be aerating once every one to three years – but more in cases of particularly dense soil or areas of high foot and/or vehicle traffic.

And if you have clay soil in your yard, you’ll likely need to aerate at least once and possibly twice a season.

Check out this full guide on when to aerate your lawn, which covers the subject in more detail.

Extra Tips

If there’s one thing I must stress before you attempt to aerate – no matter which method you choose – is that you need to water your lawn beforehand.

It shouldn’t be soaking, but nor should it be bone dry. Too far either way and you’re asking for trouble and likely to damage the turf, create backbreaking work for yourself, or end up with an unholy mess of a yard.

You should water your lawn to at least one inch the day before you aerate, so it’s nice and moist, and ready to be penetrated with your tool.

Get your mind out of the gutter.

Top tip – in order to see how much you’ve watered your lawn, you can buy a simple rain gauge, or you can use an empty tuna can – which is conveniently about one inch in size. When it’s full – you’re done.

And you can follow this link for even more tips and tricks for watering your lawn successfully.

FAQs

Which is better – a spike or plug aerator?

While spike aerators have their place – mostly for temporary, fast-treatments that are budget-friendly, a plug aerator is significantly more effective.

The only way to truly decompact the soil, is by lifting material out of it – so core aeration is naturally the preferred choice of the professionals.

Are plug aerators worth it?

Yes. It’s well worth getting a tow-behind aerator or hiring a machine for larger yards, or picking up a good manual core aerator over a spiked version.

Remember – you don’t need to do this every week – or even once a month – and it’s well worth using the best tool for the job.

Do it right the first time, and you and your lawn will reap the rewards.

What type of lawn aerator is best?

As mentioned, I would say the best tool for aerating your lawn is a core or plug aerator. And of these, the best version is a core aerating machine.

But feel free to try whatever method works for you.

Do liquid lawn aerators work?

Surprisingly, yes – they do!

I must admit I was skeptical, but after doing some research and checking out a few videos, I’m going to give this method a go come overseeding in the fall.

Sorry Yard Butler core aerator – I love you – but you wear me out, and you’re much better suited to smaller lawns and spot treatments, anyway.

How often should I spike aerate my lawn?

You only need to aerate your lawn once every one to three years – or if your turf has suffered a particularly dry spell and/or heavy traffic.

If you have pets, kids, or people who like to drive vehicles across your lawn – then you might need to do it more often.

You can always do the screwdriver test – by sticking a screwdriver into the soil, and if it meets with resistance, it could probably do with a spot of aeration.

In the end, there’s no hard and fast rule to this – go with your gut, and you should be fine.

Should I mow before aerating my lawn?

Yes – it’s a good idea to take your grass down to half of what it normally is, and use one of these dethatchers to clear the ground of any dead material, yard waste, and debris.

That said, you don’t have to do this step – and mowing, dethatching, and then aerating in sequence is more useful when you’re putting down grass seed or overseeding existing turf.

Read this article on how to boost the health of your lawn after winter for more information – which can still apply well into spring.

Should I remove the soil plugs after aerating?

Heavens no!

Sure, they might look a bit unsightly for a while – but they’ll break down soon enough, and add vital nutrients to your now grateful soil and grassroots.

Leave ‘em where they lie – and wait for the magic to happen.

Summary

Who would have thought that aerating your lawn could be so interesting?!

Jokes aside, in this battle of the spike vs plug aerator – there really is only one winner.

Let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or if you have any lawn aeration experience, tips, and tricks you’d like to share with the community.

Happy aerating!