Obviously, you’ll never find that one turf that suits all circumstances, and that goes for Bahia grass and St. Augustine alike.

However, these grasses are both pretty top-notch and depending on what you’re looking for in a grass these can both offer some great advantages.

If you struggle with picking a grass species perfect for your needs and wants, and you’re considering either Bahia grass or St. Augustine, read on to discover the main differences between the two as well as their pros and cons!

Key Differences Between Bahia Grass and St. Augustine Grass

Bahia Grass

Bahia grass can be found in warmer locations along the southern states of America as well as in Hawaii, too. Whilst predominantly limited in terms of popularity in these areas, this grass type offers great drought and heat resistance as well as a durability and low maintenance.

At a glance, Bahia grass is a tough cookie: it is a warm season perennial grass species that thrives in the summer. It’s great for gardens exposed to full sunlight and restricted water accessibility due to its extensive roots that grow deep into the soil. It is favorable along the Gulf Coast as well as deep south as it is unopposed to variating soil pH levels as well as nutrient content.

Originally used as a pasture grass when first introduced to America, this species of lawn is now widely used in agriculture, conservation, and erosion control programs as it can sustain itself when grown in compromising conditions.

Alongside its most common uses, Bahia grass is accepted as a great lawn choice for those with acreage or large garden spaces in general.

This warm-season grass forms deep roots which allows it to sustain better in sandy or infertile soils. It generally requires low maintenance and little water to keep it happy and healthy as well as needing very infrequent fertilization – an all-around winner for busy homeowners!

Bahia grass grows low and outwardly from stolons and the blades contain unsightly seed-heads that aid it in reseeding itself when they drop, however, this can be reduced with regular mowing.

As this is a summer season grass, it ideally needs to be sown in the Springtime for it to flourish in the summer heat. Whilst it can survive mild winters, when faced with the winter frost, Bahia grass becomes dormant and can turn brown.

Pros of Bahia Grass

Cons of Bahia Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions and Appearance

Bahia grass can be grown through seed or sod and is known to have a longer growth period than other grass types; this slow growth rate can sometimes cause weed issues in early establishment, however, is short lived once matured.

This species of grass creates a dense mat due to its stolons that allow it to grow low and close to the soil. The stems of this grass lay flush to the ground and held in place by its thick and fibrous roots.

The blades of this grass start short when young, however, can reach a height of 30cm when fully grown. These blades contain seed-heads that drop and propagate themselves, causing this grass to have an invasive aspect if left unmaintained.

Whilst Bahia grass prefers to grow in nutrient rich soils which are well-drained as well as acidic, it can also thrive in sandy or clay soils that are less fertile. The only preference that this grass has is that it is not well adapted to alkaline soils.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Whilst this grass is not among the MOST invasive of the grasses, it does have some invasive attributes.

When grown in ideal environments, such as in fertile soils, Bahia grass can grow rapidly at a rate of 70cm per week and if left unmaintained, can become very invasive.

Bahia grass can suffocate weeds due to its thick carpeted texture. This allows it to be aggressive in its environment as some plant species aren’t able to cultivate once Bahia grass has established itself.

Planting and Caring for Bahia Grass

Bahia grass can be grown through either sod or seed and requires little attention as it is usually very self-sufficient. The seeds can self-propagate when dropped onto the soil and although it is a slow process from there, the grass can easily sustain itself into maturity.

The best and most appealing part of this grass is its low management requirements!

Bahia grass is relatively low maintenance with the lowest rate of disease and pest issues compared to other warm season grasses. This grass does best when fertilized monthly and is not as needy as grasses such as Bermuda, which requires a heftier maintenance schedule.

Regular lawnmowing and care of Bahia grass, using the correct method, improves forage quality as well as stimulates growth, though it is known that mowing this grass can be difficult due to its woody stems.

Proper maintenance will aid in curbing its invasive behavior through proper watering techniques, to regular mowing.

St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine is a perennial warm season grass found natively in South and North America as well as in the Caribbean, too. This grass species makes for a great garden turf due to its heavy traffic threshold and weather-resistant qualities.

St. Augustine, or “Buffalo” grass, is known for its coarse texture and density which create a bounce when walked on. The strength of this grass is very much due to the thick carpet it creates which helps the plant to absorb and retain water better, allowing it to perform great as a heat and drought resistant option for many homeowners.

This grass finds hotter weather conditions favorable, therefore, is the definitive turf choice in Florida and central Texas where gardens are more likely to be exposed to full sunlight. Because of this preference, the location range of St. Augustine grass decreases as it reaches further north as it struggles to cope in cold weather.

As with many warm-season grasses, St. Augustine thrives due to its deep-root system which gives it its capability to survive with bouts of drought. This grass only grows through stolons – not rhizomes – which can grow to be several feet long and root at the nodes.

This growing behavior means this grass can become invasive if not maintained.

Pros of St. Augustine Grass

Cons of St. Augustine Grass

Characteristics, Growing Conditions and Appearance

St. Augustine has many variations; however, they all have similar characteristics in terms of behavior and maintenance requirements.

These grasses are a popular choice for a reason: they are definitely not fussy!

The soil in which St. Augustine thrives best is obviously preferred to be fertile, however, can actually also grow well in sandy soils as well as clay soils with a high range of pH levels ranging from 5 to 8.5, talk about versatility!

Another bonus of this grass is its high shade tolerance.

Many grass types grow through stolons as well as rhizomes, however, St. Augustine can only be established through stolons. These stolons are thick as hardy which make it a great garden turn for those who want a grass that can sustain heavy foot traffic; however, the only downfall is that because it doesn’t have the rhizomes for extra support, this grass may take longer to repair itself after damage.

Propagation of St. Augustine is through stolons, plugs or sods and when in its early establishment – around 7 to 10 days after planting – it does require some help in terms of care and maintenance, however, once it have matured and created stability in the soil, it can spread and propagate via its stolons on its own.

St. Augustine is very popular due to its vibrant and fresh color that can last for months. Its unique blue-green shade is an attraction to those who want a fresh – and healthy – looking lawn for long periods of time, but in winter this grass does have the risk of running into a certain level of dormancy when growth slows down, and the grass color fades.

Aggression and Invasiveness

Compared to other grass species, such as Bermuda and Kikuyu grass, St. Augustine is in the “low-risk” category of invasive grasses.

This is mostly attributed due to the fact that it spreads from stolons only, where as majority of grasses are assisted through growing with rhizomes too.

Whilst this grass is not aggressive by nature, it can block out weeds and also suffocate other plants that try to cultivate within it. This is down to its close and tight growth habit basically creates no room left for any other unwanted plants to sprout.

Planting and Caring for St. Augustine Grass

Sod, plugs, and stolons are the main ways in which this grass can be grown. When it is first laid, it is important that it is watered steadily for up to a week as this will create the foundation in which the roots can grow, after that this grass is pretty good in surviving with little water as it is great at retaining when it does get!

As I said above, the soil type is not a massive factor that dictates the health of this grass as it is really great in a variety of habitats, on top of this, this lawn is pretty much self-sustaining in that it is very low maintenance: needing mowing once a week or even two weeks with a rotary mower if possible (read more about the best lawn mowers for your needs), and fertilization is only needed once a month in spring and summer, its peak growing period.

St. Augustine grass, like Zoysia grass, can have a thatch issue due to its density. This can be solved through aeration using a garden fork or a rolling aerator. Other lawn care tools that can help prevent thatch problems include dethatching rakes and vertical mowers.

Other than that, caring for St. Augustine grass is pretty straight forward and doesn’t require a lot of effort.

Which One is Better – Bahia Grass or St. Augustine?

So, you’ve read up to here and you want to know which one is better?

I’ll tell you…

In my opinion, choosing which one is better depends on the type of grass you prefer; Bahia grass is known to be softer and lighter under the feet whereas St. Augustine can be rather coarse or rough.

If you’re choosing based on which one is cheaper – Bahia grass or St. Augustine – the average cost between them differs by around $115 per pallet of sod, with Bahia grass being cheaper.

They’re both so similar in terms of usefulness that deciding is definitely difficult, but you’ll have to consider the pros and cons of each to decide what you like best.

I have a particular liking towards Bahia grass as I find that it has all the great aspects of St. Augustine – and other warm-season grasses such as Zoysia – plus more! It is soft, dense and has that really great green color that shows health in a lawn. It out-grows weeds so you don’t really have to worry about that PLUS it has very few pest and disease problems!

Summary

St. Augustine and Bahia grass are both great lawn choices if you live in hotter climates and want a low maintenance yard, which, let’s be real, don’t we all?

St. Augustine is more commonly found in the south than Bahia grass but they both share some similarities in that they’re low maintenance, not fussy about their living arrangements and also relatively non-invasive so, really, they are both great choices for your garden!

Bahia and St. Augustine are great, but what do you think; which one is better?

If none fits your needs don’t worry. There are plenty of other types of grass seed to choose from.

I look forward to hearing your experience with these grass species as well as which one you thought won the debate!

Until next time…

The benefits are numerous – especially if you’re looking to establish new grass seed, improve drainage, and control weeds.

And while there are several ways in which you can achieve this with multiple tools, there are really only two main aerator types.

In this article, we take a look at the spike vs plug aerator, and try to figure out which one is the best, and which one is the right option for your lawn.

Let’s get stuck in.

Spike or Plug Aerator – In a Few Words

In our crazy-busy world, I can appreciate not everyone has the time to read through a full article on the differences between spike and plug aerators.

With that in mind, here’s the straight answer for anyone in a rush:

Of course, there is much more to it than that – including how we came to this conclusion, and some extra tips and advice for using each type of aerator.

So, read on if you’d like to understand a bit more about the advantages and disadvantages of each.

What is Lawn Aeration?

Without going into too much detail, (I’ve written a full lawn aeration guide you can discover at that link), Let’s briefly touch on what it actually is.

Lawn aeration is the practice of poking holes or removing plugs in the soil of established turf. You can also use it to loosen compact soil where no grass currently grows if need be.

But why would you do this?

There are a number of key benefits that lawn-care professionals will swear by – but perhaps the main reason is to improve the overall aesthetic and health of your lawn.

All plants need sunlight, water, and nutrients to thrive, and your grass is no different. If it’s being denied them with tight, compact soil, then it’s not going to be looking its best.

Imagine how you’d look and feel if you went without water for a day or two. More than three days and you’d likely be dead.

Compact soil can also encourage thatch build up – and not in a healthy way – which can be like a sponge when it comes to soaking up the natural goodness and preventing it from reaching the turf root system.

Check out this post on the differences between aerating and dethatching if you need to understand the two – and an adequately aerated lawn can seriously help with keeping thatch to a minimum.

And read this article on the top benefits for lawn aeration if you want to know more about why you should be including this as part of any essential gardening regimen.

Spike and Plug Aerators – The Differences

So, we know what lawn aeration does – but how do we achieve it?

Well, you can take a look at this article on the best lawn aerators on the market – but I would ask you to stay your clicking finger a moment longer.

You’ll notice there are different types of lawn aerators out there, but they can all be divided into two camps – spike or plug – each with their own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Spike Aerators

Spike aerators are identified by their solid metal tines that look not too dissimilar to a set of spikes – funnily enough.

They poke holes in the turf which decompacts the soil and allows water and nutrients to get down to the root system. Their main advantage over plug aerators, is that they don’t leave soil or mess on the lawn surface – which some people prefer.

However, if you imagine the action of a spike aerator, all it’s doing is forcing the soil downwards, and compacting it below the tine.

This is basically defeating the object.

While this might be a decent temporary solution – and can certainly help with quick drainage or spot treatment – it’s not nearly as effective as taking material out of the lawn.

Still, they have their place, and can be useful for speedy results, or if you don’t have immediate access to a plug aerator.

Types of Spike Aerator

Below, you’ll find some popular examples of spiked aerators. Some are more effective than others, and if you’re going down this route, choose a device or tool that’s suitable for the size of your lawn.

Garden Forks

The most basic type of spike aerator is actually a common garden fork. It’s likely you’ll already have one in your shed.

You can use it to poke holes in the turf, as it does pretty much exactly the same job as all the other spike aerators in this list.

This version by True Temper is probably one of the best on the market.

However, while a garden fork easily offers the most versatility of any aerating tool – it’s also the most backbreaking, and probably best reserved for very small plots of land.

Rolling/Push Aerators

Rolling or push aerators look similar to cylinder push mowers, in that they have a handle with a rotating drum attached to the end.

The difference is there are spikes instead of blades, and in theory, you roll the device over the turf, and it punctures holes as you go.

Some models require you to weigh the tool down with cinder blocks or bricks, such as this 16-inch rolling spike aerator from Agri-Fab.

Either way, it’s certainly more preferable than doing it tediously by hand with a fork, but it can still be something of an effort, and you need to make sure you’re physically up to the task.

Tow Behind Spike Aerators

If you happen to have a larger yard or garden, then you’ll no doubt have a garden tractor or some such vehicle.

(If you don’t, you can always take a look at this article on the best Cub Cadet, John Deere, and Husqvarna lawn tractors on the market – and treat yourself to a new toy.)

With such a machine, you can use a tow-behind spike aerator, such as this 40-inch version from Brinly-Hardy.

Homedepot.com

Again, you’ll need to weigh the tool down with appropriate bricks, but this will certainly help get the job done in no time, with just a few passes over your lawn required in order to complete the process.

Spiked Shoes

When I first saw these, I thought they were something of a gimmick, but I discovered they are a legitimate way to spike aerate a lawn.

You simply strap them on over your boots or shoes and take a stroll around your garden’s turf.

While I’ve not tried them personally, I must admit the jury is out when it comes to the reviews, and it appears they work for some folks but not for others.

The “need to be athletic” is mentioned in one review – and I think never a truer word was spoken.

I think this option is perhaps best left to the fitter and younger gardening generation out there. Better yet – stick them on the feet of your kids and send them out to play.

But if you have clay soil in your yard – I wouldn’t even bother.

Plug Aerator

Often known as core aerators, the plug version of the tool actually removes little “plugs” of soil from the turf, rather than simply poking holes in it.

They use hollow tines that drive into the turf to remove material.

And as you might expect, when it comes to solving the problem of compact soil, this method is much more effective.

So, what’s the downside?

There isn’t one – save the fact that it does leave little soil deposits on your lawn – which some homeowners don’t like.

They can be a bit of an eyesore for a while, and they do look like animal droppings.

However, they break down eventually and will nourish the topsoil and grass as they decompose. So as well as allowing the earth to breathe, you’ve also got yourself some natural fertilizer.

Now, isn’t that worth the price of a messy lawn surface for a week or two?

Types of Plug Aerator

Plug aerators tend to be heavier duty than their spiked counterparts, largely due to the fact that there’s more to them because of the way they work.

You still need to consider the size of your yard when making a choice.

Manual Plug Aerator

Special tools exist that are designed with one goal – to remove plugs of soil from your lawn.

They’re affordable, easy-to-use, and they work relatively well – depending on the quality of the product you’re using.

I have this Yard Butler manual aerator – and it works like a charm.

The problem is, it’s absolutely knackering. Manually removing the soil plugs from the tines after every stake into the ground can be tedious and time-consuming, too.

But if you need to aerate your lawn and get a workout, this comes highly recommended with the official YardThyme seal of approval.

Still, for small yards and gardens, a manual core aerator is a practical and affordable solution.

Core Aerator Machines

For anything larger than about 500 square feet, I would suggest a core aerator machine to do the job.

These are heavy, dedicated, gas-powered pieces of equipment that you push similar to a lawnmower, while the tines turn and remove plugs from your soil.

Unfortunately, such a machine is ridiculously expensive to buy, and really only purchased by lawn-care professionals who will use them on a more regular basis.

Especially when you consider you’re only likely to use it once every few years.

Still, if you’re interested, you can check out this Billy Goat model (link to mowersdirect.com) as a good example.

Renting seems to be the preferred option, and a local tool hire company should have one available.

But out of all the methods for aerating your lawn, I can safely say this is easily the most effective. Once you’ve done a pass with one of these machines, it’s unlikely your lawn will need to be aerated again for a while.

Tow Behind Core Aerator

Finally, there are tow-behind core aerators, that are very similar to their spiked counterparts.

The only real difference, is that they use those hollow tines to remove soil, rather than just a solid tine point.

This model from John Deere is a fine example, offering a 48-inch width with independent tines and a universal hitch to fit any lawn tractor.

I can confidently say that outside of using a dedicated aeration machine, this is a very close second when it comes to achieving success.

Homedepot.com

Liquid Aerators

Although it’s often overlooked in favor of the two methods mentioned above, there is a third option to decompact your soil, and that’s to use a special liquid aerator.

This example from LawnStar seems to be one of the most effective and popular choices, and it makes a decent alternative than doing all the physically demanding work yourself.

It’s environmentally friendly, and contains no harsh chemicals that might damage your lawn or other desirable plant life.

At the same time, it conditions the soil, while being capable of treating up to 30,000 square feet with an easy application using a tank or hose end garden sprayer.

Check out the video below to find out if this method is as successful as physical core aeration – and I think you might be in for a shock!

How Often Should You Aerate Your Lawn?

Thankfully, you don’t need to aerate your lawn that often as part of a gardening schedule – it’s certainly not like cutting the grass.

Professionals estimate you should be aerating once every one to three years – but more in cases of particularly dense soil or areas of high foot and/or vehicle traffic.

And if you have clay soil in your yard, you’ll likely need to aerate at least once and possibly twice a season.

Check out this full guide on when to aerate your lawn, which covers the subject in more detail.

Extra Tips

If there’s one thing I must stress before you attempt to aerate – no matter which method you choose – is that you need to water your lawn beforehand.

It shouldn’t be soaking, but nor should it be bone dry. Too far either way and you’re asking for trouble and likely to damage the turf, create backbreaking work for yourself, or end up with an unholy mess of a yard.

You should water your lawn to at least one inch the day before you aerate, so it’s nice and moist, and ready to be penetrated with your tool.

Get your mind out of the gutter.

Top tip – in order to see how much you’ve watered your lawn, you can buy a simple rain gauge, or you can use an empty tuna can – which is conveniently about one inch in size. When it’s full – you’re done.

And you can follow this link for even more tips and tricks for watering your lawn successfully.

FAQs

Which is better – a spike or plug aerator?

While spike aerators have their place – mostly for temporary, fast-treatments that are budget-friendly, a plug aerator is significantly more effective.

The only way to truly decompact the soil, is by lifting material out of it – so core aeration is naturally the preferred choice of the professionals.

Are plug aerators worth it?

Yes. It’s well worth getting a tow-behind aerator or hiring a machine for larger yards, or picking up a good manual core aerator over a spiked version.

Remember – you don’t need to do this every week – or even once a month – and it’s well worth using the best tool for the job.

Do it right the first time, and you and your lawn will reap the rewards.

What type of lawn aerator is best?

As mentioned, I would say the best tool for aerating your lawn is a core or plug aerator. And of these, the best version is a core aerating machine.

But feel free to try whatever method works for you.

Do liquid lawn aerators work?

Surprisingly, yes – they do!

I must admit I was skeptical, but after doing some research and checking out a few videos, I’m going to give this method a go come overseeding in the fall.

Sorry Yard Butler core aerator – I love you – but you wear me out, and you’re much better suited to smaller lawns and spot treatments, anyway.

How often should I spike aerate my lawn?

You only need to aerate your lawn once every one to three years – or if your turf has suffered a particularly dry spell and/or heavy traffic.

If you have pets, kids, or people who like to drive vehicles across your lawn – then you might need to do it more often.

You can always do the screwdriver test – by sticking a screwdriver into the soil, and if it meets with resistance, it could probably do with a spot of aeration.

In the end, there’s no hard and fast rule to this – go with your gut, and you should be fine.

Should I mow before aerating my lawn?

Yes – it’s a good idea to take your grass down to half of what it normally is, and use one of these dethatchers to clear the ground of any dead material, yard waste, and debris.

That said, you don’t have to do this step – and mowing, dethatching, and then aerating in sequence is more useful when you’re putting down grass seed or overseeding existing turf.

Read this article on how to boost the health of your lawn after winter for more information – which can still apply well into spring.

Should I remove the soil plugs after aerating?

Heavens no!

Sure, they might look a bit unsightly for a while – but they’ll break down soon enough, and add vital nutrients to your now grateful soil and grassroots.

Leave ‘em where they lie – and wait for the magic to happen.

Summary

Who would have thought that aerating your lawn could be so interesting?!

Jokes aside, in this battle of the spike vs plug aerator – there really is only one winner.

Let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or if you have any lawn aeration experience, tips, and tricks you’d like to share with the community.

Happy aerating!

But just by following a few, relatively simple maintenance procedures, you can turn it around in time for barbecue season.

And lawn aeration is just one of those tricks.

Often overlooked, it’s one of the best ways to ensure healthy grass growth, as well as multiple other useful benefits.

Read on to find out all you need to know about aerating a lawn – how it’s done when to do it, and what to do afterwards.

How to Aerate a Lawn – Simple Steps

As there’s always something that needs to be done and homeowners never seem to stop, I’ll add a brief summary of the article here if you’re in a rush.

That’s all there is to it, but if you would like to know more about each stage in detail, or if you have any more questions you’d like answering – then keep reading.

Alternatively, for more bite-sized information on how to make your lawn thicker and fuller – you should follow that link.

What is Lawn Aeration?

Over time, our lawns can become dense and compacted – especially if they suffer a lot of traffic (vehicles or feet/paws), or they sit under heavy snowfall for several months of the year.

If this isn’t addressed, it can cause a number of problems – as further explained below.

Simply put, lawn aeration is the process in which you either poke holes or remove material from the lawn by using a machine – called a lawn or core aerator, or by hand with a suitable tool.

There are two different types:

Spike Versus Plug Aeration – Which Should You Choose?

Both types of lawn aeration have their advantages and disadvantages.

Spike aeration leaves little mess and is probably the easier and more accessible of the two. It’s the ideal quick solution for improving many of your lawn’s problems.

However, bear in mind that you’re simply compacting the soil down under the tines, rather than actually removing any material from it.

Plug aeration addresses that and removes a “plug” section of the soil to be deposited on the surface.

Often called core aerators, there are some who might think that the material they leave behind is an eyesore, as they can look like animal droppings strewn all over your yard.

This can be a chore to clean up – although they really should be left to break down and benefit the overall health of the lawn.

And in particularly clay-heavy soil, a spike aerator isn’t going to be nearly as effective as a plug version.

Still, it’s entirely up to you, and although the pro landscape and lawn gurus will all tell you that core aeration is the way to go, using spikes is certainly better than nothing.

Why Should You Aerate Your Lawn?

There are all sorts of benefits to aerating a lawn, including allowing nutrients to flow and reach the root system, improved irrigation and drainage, weed prevention and control, and as an important step in the overseeding process.

A lawn needs to breathe and be hydrated – just like we do.

This is especially true when the hot season kicks in and a lawn is suffering through its most stressful time of the year.

If the soil is even moderately compacted, you’re going to see a withered, yellowing surface, and grass will eventually die off.

Thankfully, that nightmare scenario is easily avoided, and you should check now to see if your lawn is crying out for a bit of space.

You can also read this article for a more in-depth analysis of the benefits of lawn aeration, which explores all the plus points in detail, with a bit of the science thrown in for good measure.

The Screwdriver Trick

Whenever hearing or reading about lawn aeration, you’ll no doubt come across something called the “screwdriver trick,” or a similar phrase.

This refers to a technique you can use to find out if your lawn actually needs to be aerated.

Simply take a screwdriver (or pen that you don’t mind getting dirty) and stick it into the surface of your lawn.

If it goes in easily – there’s no need for action.

But if it meets with any kind of resistance, then you could well do with a spot of aeration to help free things up.

And if your lawn has never been aerated at all – to the best of your knowledge – then it certainly won’t hurt to give a bit of much-needed long-awaited release.

Think of it as letting out your waist belt after a particularly large meal.

When to Aerate a Lawn

The good news is – this is not something you need to do as regularly as mowing.

Far from it in fact, and experts advise that you should only be aerating your lawn at least once every one to three years.

If your grass has never experienced the joys of aerating before (and you’ll find that the vast majority of residential lawns haven’t – it’s not exactly on every homeowner’s radar), then you should definitely give it a go.

But when is the best time to aerate a lawn?

That depends on the type of grass you have.

For cool-season grasses (usually if you live in the northern half of the United States – for example) the best time to aerate is in the spring or the fall.

For warm-season grasses (if you live in the southern half) you should be aerating late fall and early summer.

You can read this article for a more in-depth guide on when you should aerate your lawn.

Check out the video below for more information on finding out what type of grass you have. If you’re serious about lawn care, it’s essential that you know what species your lawn is rocking.

Hiring a Professional/Hiring a Machine

I’m not going to sugar coat this – aerating a lawn can be very hard work.

Particularly if you’re doing it by hand with a manual aerating tool.

I’ve literally done my relatively small front yard (somewhere between 700-1000 square feet) this week, and I did it all with the power of my own steam using manual lawn coring aerator.

After just one pass I was ready to call it quits as I was wheezing like I’d climbed Everest – and that’s even as the tool was working well.

As such, there’s no shame in hiring a pro to do the job for you – especially if you’re of advancing years, you’re not physically capable, or you have no time to dedicate to the process.

Alternatively, you could hire an aerating machine – which is a heavy, gas-powered piece of equipment that you walk behind similar to a lawnmower.

You’re probably looking at around $80-120 bucks for four hours rental, and considerably more if you’ll need it for the day.

Bear in mind that landscaping professionals often charge an arm and a leg – as this is a very labor-intensive process and can take time – especially on larger properties.

How to Aerate Your Lawn – The Tools You’ll Need

There are different types of lawn aerators to choose from, so it comes down to finding the right tool for you.

As previously mentioned, lawn aeration can be done with either a manual hand tool or a machine.

There is a third option, in the form of a tow-behind aerator, usually reserved for homeowners with, particularly large gardens.

This tool attaches to the back of a lawn tractor or even one of these commercial zero-turn mowers for anyone with an industrial-sized job ahead of them.

And that’s what choosing the right tool comes down to – the size of your lawn.

For tiny to small yards, a manual hand tool is the most suitable.

The Yard Butler Core Aerator is the device I’ve been using – and it works like a treat. I would really only recommend it for smaller lawns, however – or for spot-treating larger areas.

You can also try to use a regular garden fork – but that will be particularly backbreaking. I compared the two – and it was no contest.

A push along rolling lawn aerator might be worth a shot – and you need to add weight using a concrete block to make it work.

And you can get aerator shoes that strap to your footwear, so you can simply walk across your lawn for the desired result.

But the jury is out on just how effective – not to mention practical (and potentially gimmicky) this actually is. I doubt you’d ever see a pro wearing them.

For medium-sized lawns, renting is the way to go (which is what I should have done in hindsight).

You can purchase aerating machines, but they are ridiculously expensive and really only useful for landscaping and lawn-care professionals, considering you’ll only need it every one to three years.

For property remotely on the large side, you probably already have a decent lawn tractor, and so a tow-behind aerator will work best.

(If you don’t have a decent lawn tractor – or if you’re in the market for a new one – you can follow that link for an excellent comparison between the best Husqvarna, John Deere, and Cub Cadet machines.)

This 48-inch tow-behind plug aerator from John Deere is a good example, but there are so many available to choose from, there’s bound to be one to suit your needs and your particular vehicle.

Homedepot.com

Take a look at this link for more of the best lawn aerators on the market, with an in-depth buying guide to help you pick exactly the right one.

Dethatching

Before you even begin to poke holes in your lawn, it’s a good idea to check for and dethatch if required.

Thatch is the layer of dead and living grass and other lawn material and debris that accumulates between the soil and the grass blades.

As dethatching requires a complete article unto itself, as luck would have it I’ve written one, and you can head over to this ultimate dethatching guide for more information.

You can also check out this post on the differences between dethatching and aeration – with some additional help in deciding which one is right for your lawn.

And this piece might prove useful if you’d like to know the full benefits of dethatching, and what it can do for a tired swatch of green space.

Aerating a Lawn – A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you have your tool or machine of choice, you’ve figured out that your lawn needs aerating, it’s the right time of year for your grass to do it, and you’ve properly dethatched – it’s time to get started.

Follow my step-by-step guide below for professional-standard aeration.

Water the Lawn

Attempting to aerate a bone-dry lawn is going to spell disaster for you and the turf itself, resulting in a backbreaking, time-consuming process that could do some serious damage to the surface.

The day before you aerate, water the ground up to about one inch to ensure it’s nice and supple for when you’re ready to go.

Don’t overdo it – it doesn’t need to be a quagmire. Just make sure it’s adequately moist.

Read this article for more information about watering your lawn – with some top tips on how and when to do it like a pro.

Highlight/Remove Hazards

If you’re aerating by hand, you can probably skip this step, but for machine or tow-behind aeration, it is essential.

Mark out or remove any obstacles and hazards in the lawn, such as sprinklers or utility lines.

Make no mistake, if you drive or pass over something like that with a heavy aerator it’s going to all but destroy it.

I recommend using marking flags like the ones you can find at that link – but feel free to use any system that works for you.

It’s a good idea to give the lawn a general once-over and ensure there’s no debris, toys or equipment lying around.

Aerating

Finally, you’re ready to make that first pass.

For manual aerators, you’ll want to be poking holes or coring plugs every 6-12 inches. It doesn’t need to be measured out for accuracy, just get into a rhythm and eyeball it.

It’s not a woodworking project – you’re just poking holes in a lawn.

If your soil is particularly compacted, or you miss a few spots, it’s advisable to go over the ground again. To mix it up, make your second run perpendicular to the first.

However, with a decent machine or tow-behind aerator, this is unlikely, and you don’t want to overdo it. If your lawn looks like a cribbage board – then you’ve done a good job.

Make sure to leave any plugs of soil on the surface afterwards – don’t dare clean that stuff up. It’ll break down in about a week, and the nutrients it provides will be beneficial to the remaining soil.

Because science!

Water Again

Once you’re done, water the lawn again to hydrate down into the roots and boost the lawn’s health as a result.

That feeling you get when you satisfy your thirst – that’s what’s happening to your lawn’s root system right now.

Optional Overseed and Feed

Once you’ve turned the machine off, parked the tractor, or hung up the tool, you can feel free to leave it there – your lawn is already benefiting from your hard work.

However, now you have an opportune moment to keep up the pressure and achieve a really stunning surface that a groundskeeper would be proud of.

After aerating is the best time to overseed – which can promote new growth and cover up any bald patches in your lawn.

This is a particularly useful tactic when we come out of the cold season, and you can read this article for more information on how best to care for a lawn after winter.

Regardless of if you overseed or not, adding a turf builder or other such lawn feed at this point is also highly recommended, as it will give your lawn the jump start it requires – especially if it’s been dormant for so long.

Check out the video below for a full guide to overseeding – and what you can achieve with a bit of hard work and dedication.

FAQs

What is lawn aeration?

Lawn aeration is the process of poking holes or lifting plugs of soil from a lawn in order to decompact the soil and improve air and water flow.

It also has many other extensive benefits as outlined above.

When should I aerate my lawn?

You should aerate your lawn once every one to three years, depending on how compact the soil has become.

Use the screwdriver trick, by inserting a screwdriver into the soil, and if it meets resistance, you should think about aerating.

For cool-season grasses, aerate in the spring or fall, and for the warm season, go to work in the late spring or early summer.

What is the best way to aerate your lawn?

Landscape and lawn-care pros will tell you the best way to aerate a lawn is to use a core aerator – a machine or tool that removes plugs of soil from the surface.

Spike aeration also works, although it’s not as effective. Remember, you’re trying to decompact the soil, and the only way you can really do that is by removing some of it.

Does aerating a lawn make a difference?

Yes, it most certainly does. You’ll wonder why you’ve never tried it before. It should be just as accepted as mowing the lawn in households.

Aerating your lawn will improve drainage, help prevent and control weeds, promote thicker, greener grass, and helps the surface to withstand stressful summers – to name but a few benefits.

What do you do after you aerate your lawn?

Immediately after, you should water the lawn one more time. After that, you don’t have to do anything if you don’t want to – your lawn will naturally benefit from the breather.

However, this is the best time to overseed and feed – add new grass seeds for a thicker, healthier surface, as well as patching up any bare or bald spots.

And the effectiveness of lawn fertilizer will improve right after aeration – so it’s a good time to get some of that down to boost lawn health.

Furthermore, while dethatching and aerating can help with weed prevention, after the process is a great time to add a lawn-safe herbicide for a bit of extra help preventing undesirables.

Alternatively, you can check out this article on how to get rid of weeds in your lawn without chemicals.

Summary

Aerating a lawn is a simple maintenance process that can make a huge difference to the health of your turf.

Done at the right time, with the right tools, and in the right way – your grass is going to grow like never before.

They say that grass is always greener on the other side of the hill – and that “hill” can well be your own backyard.

Let me know your own lawn-care tips in the comments, or if there’s anything you’d like to share with the green-thumbed community.

Best of luck, and happy aerating!

The problem is, we’re not alone in enjoying this climate, as unsightly, unwanted visitors start to return in an attempt to ruin everything.

I am, of course, talking about weeds.

And if your property is on the larger side, then they can be even more of a nuisance to eradicate.

So, in a series of articles dedicated to destroying problematic vegetation, let’s first take a look at the best weed killers for large areas.

A buyer’s guide with helpful tips and tricks will follow.

Don’t let weeds ruin your summer – reclaim your garden now!

10 Best Weed Killers for Large Areas 2026

Spectracide Weed Stop Concentrate for Lawns

Homedepot.com

Let’s begin with this weed stop concentrated formula from Spectracide.

For use with your garden hose attachment, it will cover up to 5,000 square feet and won’t harm your lawn if used as directed. No mixing is required in this ready-to-use applicator bottle, and it will kill over 470 different weeds with results in as little as five hours.

The formula is rainproof three hours after application, and it’s especially effective on crabgrass if used at the first sign of trouble. A contact, post-emergent herbicide with 2, 4-D, dimethylamine salt as its active ingredient, this will kill to the roots of all those pesky lawn invaders.

Pros

Cons

Preen Extended Control Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

Our second entry belongs to 13.75 lbs of Extended Control Weed Preventer from the household name Preen, a company that has been manufacturing lawn care products since the 1940s.

This particular product is a pre-emergent weed preventer, which is specially formulated to stop the little devils before they become a nuisance. Just one application is guaranteed to block weeds for up to six months and is potent on 125 varieties of unwanted, broadleaf and grassy weeds.

It comes in granule form and is easily spread where required around your yard or garden with the applicator scoop provided, then simply water the area to activate. If you’re looking to murder Bermuda grass, try these other effective weed killers to do that job.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Concentrate 365 Vegetation Killer

Check availability, reviews and price

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Walmart.com

This is the first of our entries from weed killer experts Roundup, who certainly seem to be experiencing mixed-fortunes lately.

Their products continue to be highly successful at the jobs they’re purchased to do, but there’s a lot of furor around their active ingredient – glyphosate – which might not be available in certain areas depending on current legislation.

Love it or hate it, there’s no denying its potency. This version is their Max Control, 365 Vegetation Killer – which does exactly that, in concentrate form. It kills weeds and creates an invisible barrier in the soil, keeping your garden clear for up to 12 months.

This particular version is for driveways, patios, and along fence lines. For more similar products, check out this article on the best weedkillers for driveways.

Pros

Cons

Compare-N-Save Grass and Weed Killer

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While Roundup might be the household name, they’re not the only manufacturer to use glyphosate in their products. This is a 2.5-gallon formula from Compare-N-Save, which is effectively the same stuff for a cheaper price for the quantity.

This contact herbicide can kill over 175 types of weeds and grasses and can make up to 210 gallons of spray solution when correctly mixed with water, which will cover a very generous 63,900 square feet.

Certainly, for the price, this is one of the best weed killers for large yards out there, and I mean really large yards.

You’ll see results in two to four days, it’s fully rainproof in two hours, and you can use it anywhere except lawns and vegetable gardens – or where you want desirable plants to thrive because this will kill anything.

Pros

Cons

Scotts Turf Builder Crabgrass Preventer

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Let’s change direction a little now with a lawn-safe weed-killer that’s specially formulated to attack that unsightly invasive species – crabgrass. Plague of many-a-lawn, this nuisance weed can be a headache to get rid of.

Enter lawn care experts Scotts, with this turf building product that stops crabgrass in its tracks, simultaneously encouraging a healthy, green lawn in the spring. It will also keep other grassy and broadleaf weeds at bay, like chickweed and poa annua, and protect your patch all season with its pre-emergent formula.

And the turf builder continues to feed the lawn through winter (also ideal to use in the fall) so you can expect a fast green-up the following year.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Prodiamine 65 WDG Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Check availability, reviews and price

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Walmart.com

Next up we have this pre-emergent herbicide from Quali-Pro, their Prodiamine 65 WDG product. Get unwanted weeds and grasses under control before they even raise their ugly heads, with a large, five-pound bottle of liquid death.

Specifically formulated for the control of weeds in established turf grasses, nurseries, around trees and shrubs, and lawns, this is a professional-grade weed preventer (not killer) that will get the job done against a variety of nuisance weeds, and can be applied in either spring or fall for quality results.

Most effective against crabgrass, this is an excellent alternative to the Scotts Turf Builder – if you’re looking for something a little more potent.

Pros

Cons

Green Gobbler 20% Horticultural Vinegar Weed Killer

Check availability, reviews and price

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Here we take a breather from the more toxic weed killers for large areas, with this giant five-gallon pail of one of my personal favorite products – the Green Gobbler.

Rather than use potentially carcinogenic chemicals, these guys instead opt to use an organic solution, made from a 20% vinegar formula that is four times stronger than the stuff you’d put on your salads.

Having been made from ethanol distilled from corn grain, it’s safe to use anywhere around your home and garden. It’s a non-selective weed-killer, which means you only apply it to unwanted vegetation, such is its ability to kill a variety of different floras on contact.

Best of all, it’s pet and human safe (applied as directed), so you can use it with peace of mind if you have four and/or little legs running around.

Pros

Cons

Monterey Remuda Concentrated Herbicide

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Here we have another herbicide with a high concentration of glyphosate at 41%. I’ve added this into the review because it offers excellent coverage, with one pint of the concentrated formula providing 320 gallons of product that will cover 320,000 square feet.

For use against weeds in non-planted areas, it’s most effective around trees, shrubs, and flowerbeds, in temperatures of 70 degrees and above. This systemic herbicide will kill vegetation right to the root and is intended as a post-emergent solution against already existing weeds.

Check out this article for more ways to rid your property of nettles.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate

This Roundup super concentrate is regarded as one of the best all-round weed killers on the market – particularly for widespread nuisance vegetation over larger areas.

Best for use in tank sprayers, you can cover a lot of ground all over your yard or garden, from patios and walkways to flowerbeds, along fences and foundations, gravel areas, and for garden plot preparation and lawn replacement.

The 50% glyphosate active ingredient is merciless when it comes to killing anything on contact, and you’ll have wilting, yellowing weeds within two to four days. The product is absorbed through the leaves and travels all the way to the root for total annihilation.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate + Weed Preventer

Check availability, reviews and price

Amazon.com

Homedepot.com

This total vegetation control is exactly that – a product that will attack and kill anything that grows, and keep you weed-free for up to one year.

Another product with a high glyphosate concentration (love it or hate it – it certainly works), this can treat an area of 43,243 square feet, making it an ideal solution for controlling weeds in large areas. As directed, you only apply to areas where no plant life is required – because it will destroy anything green.

Best used in a tank sprayer to cover more ground, the solution is easy to use and mix with water for effective weed killing and preventing results. Used by the professionals, this is easily one of the best and most effective weed killers available today.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Weed Killer for Large Areas

Below, you’ll find an informative buyer’s guide to help you choose the right product for you and your property.

Size of Area/Quantity

First, you’ll want to find out just how much area you need to cover, and then you can ascertain the quantity of the product you require. If you’re reading this page at all, it’s likely you need something that will cover larger spaces.

This is where concentrated weed killer products are king. Simply mix with the right amount of water for weed control over thousands of square feet.

Each weed killer is different though – so be sure to read the directions thoroughly in order to create the perfect concoction.

This might take some trial and error, too – as many users report that the given mixing instructions aren’t always the best depending on site and situation.

Be ready to adapt and create the right water to product ratio that will work for you.

Type of Area

When faced with so many options of weed killers, it might be overwhelming at first when it comes to choosing the right one.

But if you take a deep breath, and stop to check each product, you’ll discover that they all have different uses – and can be used in different areas.

So, as well as ascertaining just how large your weed-killing area needs to be, you also need to pay attention to the type.

Do you need to kill weeds on your lawn, among flower beds, around trees and shrubs, through the decking, along fences, in vegetable patches, on patios, driveways, and walkways…?

The list of places where weeds can spring up is seemingly endless, so too the list of products that will kill them.

Make sure you select the right weed-killer for the type of area you’re going to cover – it’s not one-size-fits-all, and using the wrong formula in the wrong area could have seriously negative results.

Emergence

Herbicides are available in a variety of forms and can be applied at three different times in the life-cycle of weeds and plant life.

Choosing the correct type will make your life much easier and give you the results you’re looking for.

Persistence and Selectivity

How long do you want the herbicide to keep working on your property, and what type of vegetation do you want it to attack?

A weed killer that keeps plants away for a long period of time is great if you want an area of your garden completely devoid of life – but useless if you want to cultivate desirable plants or vegetables.

Likewise, using a fast-acting weed killer that doesn’t last long in the soil will be ineffective at keeping weeds at bay through the season.

You should also consider if the herbicide is selective or non-selective.

Selective herbicides are designed to specifically destroy certain types of plant life, whereas non-selective will kill just about anything.

Active Ingredients

There are many compounds, formulas, and mixes that will attack and kill plant life. Some of them are also dangerous to humans and animals, others less so.

Keeping that in mind, it’s worth considering the main (active) ingredient in a weed killer – especially if you’re conscientious of where you’re going to be using it, and whether you have children or pets.

Glyphosate in particular has attracted a lot of media attention in recent years and is banned in some states and many countries around the world.

A broad-spectrum systemic herbicide and crop desiccant, it’s highly potent and effective at eliminating weeds, but the jury is out on how dangerous it is to humans.

That’s just one, high-profile example, but you should always take the time to consider what is in any weed killer you choose to purchase.

Application Method

Another often confusing factor about herbicides is just how they are applied. They come in a variety of forms and formulas, and the application instructions regularly lead people to scratch their heads.

Herbicides can be scattered on the ground in granule form, or they can be water-soluble granules and dissolved to make a potent concoction. They can be applied neatly in a spray bottle, or they can be diluted and dispensed from a tank, or attached to a hose and distributed that way.

The latter two application methods are more common for larger areas.

Make sure you understand how your chosen product is dispensed before purchasing – and that you have the necessary equipment to use it. Tank sprayers and granule spreaders are sold separately – and a good one can be expensive.

Check out the video below for advice on how to use a tank sprayer.

Brand Names

Do they matter? Some say yes, but when it comes to herbicides, it’s a case of six of one, half a dozen of the other that a brand-name product will perform any better than a budget version that has exactly the same ingredients.

Roundup is perhaps the most famous weed killer on the market, but you’ll find it’s not always the best, particularly if you want to stay away from harsh chemicals.

There are many more options out there, some branded, some not, all claiming to be effective at the job they’ve been designed to do.

Do your research, check reviews for similar weed-killer environments to yours, and go with your gut.

And if you’re still in doubt, try a few options and see which one works best for you.

Keep in mind that for larger areas, you might want to be looking at some of the best commercial weed killers, that will certainly do the job.

It’s definitely good to learn more about the available options as there are so many types of weed killers available on market.

Cost

When choosing the best weed killer for large overgrown areas, it’s important to take into consideration the cost of the product.

This is where you need to weigh up the value for money when it comes to quantity and longevity, and you’ll need to do a little math to figure out the best product to go for.

It’s best to strike a nice, cost-effective balance between how much you’re initially paying, the area it will cover, and how long it will last.

Summary

If you’re in any way unfamiliar with what’s available, the world of weed killing can be a daunting and complex environment.

That’s why taking a bit of time to examine each product can really help you focus on finding the best weed killer for large areas, and I hope this article has helped in some small way.

Personally, I prefer to stay away from the harsher chemicals, but I realize that might not always be possible – especially if you’ve got a lot of land and simply want to destroy everything as fast as possible.

To that end, I think the RM43 is hard to beat.

Let me know which weed killer you would choose and why.

Until next time, happy weed murdering to you all.

No problem! I’m here to tell you how to cut tall grass in a way that will promote the health of your lawn.

Keep reading for to find out everything you need to know about how to cut tall grass.

Quick Tips For Cutting Long Grass

How to Cut Really Tall Grass Step by Step

Let’s look at the process in a little more detail.

The first step is to clear the area that you want to cut of hidden items and debris like kids’ toys, garden tools, rocks and sticks.

After this, make sure that you and your equipment are in good working order. Make sure blades are sharp, engines are tuned, fuel tanks are full, and your body is appropriately enclosed in protective clothing. (If you’re not sure how to make sure that your lawnmower maintenance is up to date, have a read of this article.)

Start the cutting. Remember, you’re only going to remove a maximum of one-third of the total grass height in the first cut. This means that a regular lawnmower is probably not the best tool for the job as its highest setting probably isn’t high enough.

You’d be better off using a hand tool like a scythe, or a trimmer/weed eater, so that you can more easily control the height. Gradually cut the grass to two-thirds of its original height (so if it was 3 feet tall, you’re going to remove 1 foot and leave 2).

Don’t try and cut large clumps all at once or your machine may clog. The ‘gradual’ part is key here. Are you in need of a trimmer? There are a whole lot of trimmers on the market but this article gives a good comparison between two of the biggest brands – Stihl and Husqvarna which is a good place to start.

Water deeply and leave for a week to recover.

Attack the next section, cutting the total height to around 6 inches, or a height that is manageable for your lawnmower to finish the job. Follow the same process as step 3, unless your grass is already short enough that you could use your lawnmower on its highest setting now.

In which case – do that! It’s easier and your grass will all be the same height. Don’t have a lawnmower yet? There are also a whole load of different lawn mowers on the market! This article compares the different kinds which is a helpful place to start. And if you’re on a budget, there are some great cheap options too.

If you used a trimmer to reduce the height to 6 inches, it would be best practice to wait a few more days before coming back with the lawnmower and doing the final cut to your desired height. But, no one is going to judge you for doing it all in one day if you’re pushed for time.

With all this in mind, are you wondering whether there is more to grass cutting than you realized? For example, did you know that not removing more than a third of the total height is a rule that stands for all lawn lengths, not just when it comes to overgrown grass cutting?

If you’d like to brush up on your lawn mowing skills, have a read of these lawn mowing tips.

Are you mowing a large area? Your best bet is probably going to be a commercial zero-turn mower. Find out all about them here.

FAQs

What is the best tool for cutting really long grass?

For cutting grass that is too tall for a lawnmower, the best tools are either scythes or weed eaters/trimmers.

How long is too long to cut grass?

There is no such thing as too long! Unless you mean too long for your lawnmower to handle, in which case you’re probably looking at anywhere from 6 inches to a foot. But, if you’re cutting the grass this long with a mower then you’re going to have to take it very slowly to avoid clogging and overheating, and likely need to tip the mower up to cut from above in places which is not a safe practice and definitely not recommended.

How do you cut tall thick grass?

The best way to cut tall, thick grass is slowly and gradually with a weed eater or trimmer.

Should I leave grass clippings on the lawn?

This depends on how long and thick your lawn was before you cut it. If you were only cutting a little bit off the top of the grass then leaving the clippings on the lawn to break down naturally is an excellent idea. If there are so many that they start to clump then this won’t look good so you may prefer to remove them.

If you’re looking for more ideas on what to do with grass clippings then have a read of this article.

Is it ok to let your grass grow long?

Depending on what you mean by long, then yes. It is definitely ok to let your lawn grow long. Ideally, you want to avoid letting it get longer than your lawnmower can comfortably handle so that you don’t create more work for yourself when it comes time to mow.

Michigan state university estimates that 3.5 – 4 inches are the optimum height for healthy grass that has a better shot at out-competing weeds than shorter lawns.

What happens if you never mow your lawn?

Aside from looking wild and unruly and likely annoying your neighbors, not much. Cutting grass to a height of a few inches is a very cultural thing that has no benefit for the natural environment and insects that might make a lawn their home.

There seems to be this ingrained fear that an uncut lawn will continue to grow further and further out of control. But this isn’t entirely true. All of the species present will eventually reach their full height and enter a kind of homeostasis. You just have to decide whether that full height is not to your liking. The insects will definitely like it!

Summary

Hopefully, by now you understand how to cut tall grass.

It’s a multi-step process that should ideally be spread out over a few weeks if you really want to protect the health of your lawn. But if things are really desperate, you can do it in a day, just know that it might take a bit of time for the lawn to start looking good again at its new, shorter height.

Did you find these steps useful? Did they work for you? I’d love to hear about your experience mowing tall grass. Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments section below.

Alas, that’s not always the case, which makes cutting the grass a real chore when you’re on uneven ground.

This is especially true if you’re blessed with the task of maintaining a large area of land. A push mower is literally not going to cut it.

And not all riding lawnmowers are necessarily going to be able to handle all the humps and bumps either.

With that in mind, I’ve put together this review of the best riding lawnmowers for rough terrain.

A full buyer’s guide with FAQ section will follow to bring you up to speed on these amazing adult toys.

Because let’s face it – cutting the grass has never been so much fun.

The TOP 11 Riding Lawnmowers for Rough Terrain 2026

Husqvarna Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin Hydrostatic Mower

Astonishingly, the Swedish manufacturer of outdoor power products has roots as far back as 1689 when they made rifles. Today, they’re more famed for their forestry tools and equipment but also turn their experienced hands to lawn and garden machines.

This riding lawn mower features a 17.5 horsepower Briggs and Stratton Intek engine that offers powerful performance, and a foot pedal-operated hydrostatic transmission that allows you to change speed and direction, which lets you keep both hands on the steering wheel for better control while driving.

You can mow in reverse with a simple flick of a switch, and if offers a 38-inch cutting deck with air-induction for a clean cut. This lawn tractor is also fully customizable with a range of towable accessories.

Pros

Cons

Snapper Classic RER Rear Engine Riding Mower

Snapper Inc was founded way back in 1890 and they built the first self-propelled rotary mower in 1951. As you might expect, they know a thing or two about lawnmowers.

This compact ride-on mower boasts an 11.5 horsepower Briggs & Stratton power built 4-cycle OHV engine that sits at the rear of the vehicle.

It’s an easy-to-use design, ideal for first-time riding lawnmower users, and offers a 28-33 inch cutting width which is suitable for most lawns.

There’s a five-speed shift-on-the-go disc drive system, a 28-inch turning radius, and a super-convenient stand-on-edge capability that makes cleaning and maintenance a breeze.

Pros

Cons

Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro LT Riding Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

The Enduro XT1 series from Cub Cadet is striving to raise the bar when it comes to ride-on lawnmowers – and they might well have succeeded.

This 42-inch beast has a whopping 547cc engine with IntelliPower technology, that provides up to 20% more power than other machines in the same class.

With a twin-bladed cutting deck and automotive handling, you can turn on a dime with the optimized steering system for a 16-inch turning circle.

The hydrostatic transmission ensures this machine is a pleasure to drive, with a simple, silky-smooth operation that anyone can use, while the adjustable seat offers the best in premium comfort.

And that’s just scratching the surface of the features on offer here.

Pros

Cons

Troy-Bilt Intek Automatic Riding Lawnmower

Revolutionizing rotary tillers in 1937, US company Troy-Bilt has been producing some of the best farming and landscaping equipment for over 80 years.

This garden tractor is their Bronco model, with a 19 horsepower 540cc Briggs & Stratton Intek engine for powerful mowing, single-cylinder automatic transmission, and 46-inch side discharge mowing deck.

You can mow in reverse with ease and be comfortable throughout with a mid-back seat, patented soft-touch steering wheel, and step-thru frame for easy access.

The sturdy wheels are just right for lawnmowing on uneven ground at speeds of up to 5.2 miles per hour.

One of the greatest riding lawn mowers for uneven ground available.

Pros

Cons

Craftsman T225 Gas-Powered Riding Lawn Mower

This Craftsman riding lawn mower boasts a 19 horsepower Briggs and Stratton engine with a ready-start, so there’s no need to prime or choke before you get going on your mission to tame your yard.

The supportive, high-backed seat provides optimum comfort, while you’re in total control with the foot-adjustable hydro transmission.

The 46-inch cutting deck has a deck wash included, which saves loads of time when you need to clean your baby.

Easily negotiate troublesome spots with the mow-in-reverse feature, while the front and rear turf-friendly wheels have excellent clearance that’s just right for driving over uneven or rough terrain.

Pros

Cons

John Deere S100 Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor

Homedepot.com

John Deere requires little introduction when it comes to lawn tractors, mowers, and other heavy-duty land maintenance machines.

This 42-inch mower is backed by a 17.5 horsepower gas engine with hydrostatic transmission, with side-by-side pedals to offer super-fast directional control.

Highly maneuverable, you can spend less time cutting your grass as it handles obstacles with ease, while the power under-the-hood ensures you can bag, mulch, and mow even in the toughest conditions.

The dent resistant finish is rustproof and durable, with openings to the side to allow increased airflow, and the 11-inch adjustable seat ensures comfort and support where you need it all day long.

Pros

Cons

Ryobi RY48110 Electric Rear Engine Riding Lawn Mower

Japanese company Ryobi offers excellent consumer tools and equipment, and this battery-operated riding lawnmower is certainly cutting edge.

Fully electric, it has zero emissions which is ideal for gardeners who are especially environmentally conscious (which we all should be).

On a full charge, it will give you up to two hours of run time which is around the equivalent of two acres of mowing. No smells, fuel or fumes, and a machine that isn’t likely to need nearly as much maintenance as gas-powered models.

And with a 38-inch deck and 12-position manual deck adjustment, you can be sure you can adapt this mower to the landscape you need to mow.

Pros

Cons

Snapper 360z Riding Zero-Turn Mower

This is the first of our zero-turn mowers in this review, another entry from Snapper.

This mower features an integrated rear cargo bed for extra versatility, as well as being adaptable with plenty of available accessories and add-ons.

There’s a heavy-duty mowing deck, a foot-adjusted cutting height system, built into a fully-welded steel frame, with a high-performance Briggs and Stratton professional series engine. It’ll give you 3600 RPM with 23 horsepower over a grass-leveling 48-inch cutting width.

Packed with commercially inspired features – this option will take your lawn mowing to the next level.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna RedMax RZT54 Deck Riding Zero-Turn Mower

Acquired by Husqvarna in 2007, Redmax has a history way back to 1910, but they now build commercial-grade outdoor power equipment for today’s landscaping professionals.

This is their RZT54 riding lawnmower, which offers a 54-inches of cutting deck backed by a Kawasaki engine that provides 24 horsepower.

It features a choice of cutting methods – collect, mulch or side discharge, with a hydro-gear transmission, a super-comfortable high-backed seat and a tubular frame that is extremely durable and long-lasting.

There’s an ergonomic control panel that keeps everything at your fingertips and a non-slip footrest area for added safety and comfort. The RZT can handle tough terrain with minimal fuss.

Good riding lawn mower for uneven ground available.

Pros

Cons

Husqvarna MZ61 Hydrostatic Zero-Turn Riding Mower

Husqvarna closes the reviews out with this beast of a riding mower which packs a punch with its statistics.

It features a Briggs and Stratton 27 horsepower engine for power and speed and a whopping 61-inch cutting deck for particularly large areas of land.

There’s an ergonomically designed deck lifting system for quick and easy adjustments from the operator’s seat, while grass clippings can be discharged, mulched or collected. The super-comfortable high-backed chair includes armrests, foam-padded handgrips, and vibration dampeners.

This is commercial quality available for residential use – although you really need to have the space to use it.

The greatest zero turn mower for uneven ground and for cutting larger areas.

Pros

Cons

Cub Cadet Ultima ZT1 Zero Turn Mower

Homedepot.com

Backed with a 23 horsepower, 726cc Kawasaki twin cylinder engine, you might want to take this to the racetrack rather than cut the grass with it.

A monster of a ride-on machine, the huge 50-inch deck makes this a commercial-class behemoth that’s ideal for larger plots of land.

The two by two inch tubular steel frame is as heavy-duty as they come, built like a tank, and designed to last.

Best suited to five acres and more, the Aeroforce cutting system delivers best-in-class performance, at up to 7.5 MPH speeds, all while providing a super comfortable high-back seat with advanced polymer suspension.

If this doesn’t get the job done in no time – nothing will.

Pros

Cons

How to Pick the Right Riding Lawn Mower for Rough Terrain

There’s a lot to consider before making a purchase of this size and price, so let’s take a look at some of the factors that might influence your decision.

Cutting Deck

The cutting deck refers to the section of the mower that is going to do the job you’re buying it for – cutting the grass.

This is the section that contains the mower blades, and possibly other features depending on the particular model.

It’s the cutting deck size that’s most important, which will indicate the width of cut on your lawn.

Obviously, the larger the cutting deck, the fewer passes you’ll have to make over the grass to get the job done. For larger lawns and land, you’re going to need a mower with a larger cutting deck.

As a rule of thumb, follow the guide below:

For mowing anything up to half an acre, 40 inches or less is suitable.

For between half to two acres, you should be looking at a 42-48 inch mowing deck.

For anything larger than three acres you really need 50-inches or above.

Transmission

Ride-on mowers are like go-karts with blades. Which is awesome.

Depending on the model, the type of transmission is likely to be different. The possible types are outlined below:

Manual Transmission

It’s like riding stick. You have to change the gears yourself as you put the mower through its paces with speed.

While manual can offer you more power and speed control, it can be difficult to turn or operate around obstacles – especially if you’re not familiar with how it works.

For that reason, many people prefer alternative options. However, manual transmission mowers are considerably cheaper than any other type.

Automatic Transmission

Again, like motor vehicles, automatic transmission lawnmowers make your life much easier by changing gears by themselves.

They use a belt and pulley system to transfer power to the mower’s wheels.

This means you’re free to concentrate on the actual mow itself, negotiating obstacles, or simply not worrying about taking your hands off the wheel giving you great control of the mower’s direction.

You’ll likely save more time with an automatic transmission, and if the mower is blessed with cruise-control, then you can really sit back and enjoy the ride.

Hydrostatic Transmission

Of all the variations of mower transmission, hydrostatic is by far the most powerful.

They don’t need a clutch, nor a belt or pulley system. They work by using fluids to transfer power to the mower’s wheels.

You’ll enjoy a smoother ride, with a more durable transmission that shouldn’t need half the maintenance other types will require.

The downside is that this type of transmission is clearly the most expensive and will put a heavy dent in your wallet.

Adjustable Deck Height

Mowers that have an easily adjustable deck height are ideal for rough terrain, as you can change the blade height depending on the type of ground you’re traveling over.

This is a huge weapon in the fight against scalping – so you can avoid shaving off too much grass and exposing the earth below.

Practice makes perfect, and it might take you a bit of time to figure out the correct deck height for different parts of your land.

So, it’s important that this is easy to use, fast and efficient, and ideally able to be operated while you’re piloting the machine.

Deck Castor Wheels

Keep a lookout for mowers with deck castor wheels for mowing rough terrain. They’ll help guide the deck and give you an even cut.

They’re also just very useful to prevent scalping, or taking large clumps out when you’re trying your best to get an even finish.

Suspension

More so for your own riding comfort than anything else, but a good riding lawnmower for rough terrain will have a decent suspension system as standard.

It might not actually make much of a difference to the finish cut, but it will certainly make your life so much easier and you’ll step off the machine not feeling like you’ve been in an earthquake.

Seat Comfort

As with the suspension, seat comfort won’t do anything to improve the lawn finish, but it will ensure you have a more pleasant riding experience over uneven terrain.

Look for high-backed chairs that have armrests – or that at least can adapt to have arm-rests built-in if you so desire.

Mowers with vibration dampening technology are also highly recommended for rough terrain – it will make all the difference when you finish the job and disembark – you’ll really feel the benefits through your body.

Steering Wheel Versus Zero-Turn

Both have their advantages and disadvantages, but when it comes to choosing which is the best for rough terrain, it really is down to personal preference.

I would consider the number of obstacles on your land – if you have many, then a zero-turn might be a better idea.

But don’t forget that they’re much more expensive.

But if you’re looking for specifically zero-turn type mowers, then read our article on all about the finest zero-turn mowers of 2026!

Engine Power

It’s important to have a powerful engine for mowing rough terrain. You need to have that peace of mind under the hood when you most need it.

However, it should also be noted that you’ll need to know how to control it well. Galavanting around your land at full speed is not only dangerous, but it won’t actually save you time on mowing if you’re not being careful over uneven ground.

FAQs

Do I Really Need a Riding Lawn Mower?

Ahhhh the age-old question. How can you tell if you really need a riding lawnmower?

Apart from looking out your windows and judging by common sense, there’s a very simple guide that is ideal in such a situation as this.

If you have:

Up to half an acre of land – you should be using a reel, battery-powered or electric mower to cut the grass.

For between half an acre and an acre, a gas-powered push mower is the tool you need.

And with anything over one acre but no more than four, that’s when you should be investing in a riding mower.

Having said all that, it’s really up to you depending on if you have the storage space, the budget, and if it’s actually practical enough to use on your lawn.

How Do I Avoid Scalping?

Scalping is when you take chunks out of the grass or turf and end up with an unsightly, uneven cut.

This is highly likely on uneven or rough terrain.

In order to minimize this, you should manually adjust the mowing height – depending on the conditions underneath.

It might be necessary to raise or lower the blades, based on the terrain you’re mowing over. Don’t just assume one level will be able to handle the whole lawn.

What Attachments Can I Fit on My Riding Lawn Mower?

Providing your riding lawnmower is versatile enough to be adaptable with accessories, then there’s a whole host of add-ons you can purchase to pimp it out until your heart is content.

Some of these might include grass collectors or baggers, snowblowers, snowplows, armrests, roll bars, trailers or cargo beds, mulch kits, and bad-weather cabins.

Again, check to see if the mower you’re interested in has the capacity to install extras. Note that they are nearly always sold separately.

How Often Should I Sharpen My Riding Lawn Mower Blades?

Just like any other bladed or edged tool, frequent maintenance, repair and/or replacement is required to keep it operating at optimum levels.

But it depends on how much you’re using the blade. If you’re cutting the grass regularly then you’ll need to sharpen it perhaps once a month.

For home use, once a year is usually acceptable.

The best way to decide if you need to sharpen your blades, however, is whenever you notice a dip in performance.

If your mower is struggling to cut the grass, perhaps it’s time to examine the blade for damage or dullness.

For more information on this, read our article on lawn mower blade sharpeners to keep the blades cutting effectively.

How Do I Maintain My Riding Lawn Mower?

Like all power tools and equipment, regular maintenance for your riding lawn mower is key to ensuring it has a long life and is performing at the top of its game.

There’s a lot that can go wrong with a riding lawnmower.

For a start, you need to check the oil regularly. One of the main causes of malfunction in riding lawnmowers is because people forget to check and replenish the oil.

Ensure you adhere to the correct amount for that engine – too much or too little can cause serious damage. Replace the oil filter once a year.

Check your air filter for any debris or damage. Replace as and when necessary.

Check and tighten any loose nuts, bolts or screws.

Check the tire pressure. A common cause for an uneven cut is because the pressure doesn’t match in your lawnmower tires.

Replace spark plugs as and when required – usually once a year.

As a general rule, keep the mower as clean and debris free as possible. Giving it a good wash down after every use is considered best practice.

Do I Need a Lawn Mower Cover When It’s Not in Use?

If you want to keep your lawnmower in tip-top condition, I would highly recommend a lawnmower over.

This is essential if you’re leaving the machine parked outside, or if you’re in a region that happens to get very cold during the winter.

Leaving it out and exposed to the elements is not a good idea and you do so at your own risk.

Summary

Choosing the right riding lawn mower for rough terrain isn’t an easy task, but I hope this review has helped you at least narrow the field down a little and armed you with enough knowledge to know what to look for.

As a personal favorite, I can’t look beyond the 28-inch Snapper, which is just perfect for most lawns and is really easy to clean, store and maintain.

Of course, it depends on your needs as to the model you eventually go for, so let me know which is your preferred choice and why.

Happy mowing!

That’s why botanical science boffins created products that do exactly that – and if applied correctly, can keep weeds at bay for up to a year.

Pre-emergent weed killers are designed to stop unwanted vegetation before it has a chance to germinate, so it’s possible that you won’t even see weeds rearing their ugly heads for the season.

Because prevention is much better than cure.

Read on to discover the best pre-emergent weed killers and find the one that’s right for you. A full buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow.

Let’s nip those weeds in the bud.

The 11 Best Pre-Emergent Weed Killers in 2026

Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer

For the very best in lawn care, you can do a lot worse than Scotts, a household name when it comes to building turf like a putting green. This is their crabgrass and grassy weed preventer, a granular product that you apply over your lawn using a spreader.

It can be applied in the spring to prevent crabgrass and other problem weeds for the season, and it can also be applied in the fall to keep winter weeds at bay.

It’s not affected by weather after application, and a 10 lbs bag will treat an area of up to 5000 square feet. This is probably the best pre-emergent weed killer for Bermuda grass as it won’t harm it if you’re cultivating a Bermuda grass lawn.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Landscape Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

As well as making some of the best post-emergent herbicides, the most recognizable weedkiller brand also manufactures a line of weed preventers. This also comes in granular form, but this time designed to be spread around annuals, established flower beds, and around trees and shrubs.

It creates a protective barrier in the soil, so you will be weed-free for up to six months, and you only need to apply it once per year before unwanted foliage has a chance to grow.

Simply apply using the easy-applicator, mulch, and then water to activate to prevent over 40 types of grassy and broadleaf weeds.

Pros

Cons

Preen Garden Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

When it comes to pre-emergent weed killers, Preen products were never going to be far away – and now we have two in a row. First up is their standard weed preventer, a 16 lbs tub of granules that comes with a scoop spreader.

Distribute around bedding areas and then water to activate, and keep your garden weed-free for up to three months.

Safe to use in proximity to over 200 species of flowers, vegetables, trees, and shrubs, you’ll have peace of mind applying this even near your edibles. Best of all, it can be applied at any time throughout the season – just so long as you’ve cleared the area of existing weeds beforehand.

Pros

Cons

Preen Granular Garden Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

This next Preen entry has all the benefits of the previous product, but this time with the addition of plant food.

As such, it’s the best pre-emergent weed killer for flower beds, as the balanced fertilizer is designed to promote blooms, increase yields for vegetables, and create strong and healthy root systems.

Again, perfectly safe for use around 200 established flowers, vegetables, trees, and shrubs, one application will feed your plants and prevent weeds for up to three months. The 16 lbs tub with applicator scoop covers 2,560 square feet, and it can be used throughout the season for effective results.

Pros

Cons

The Andersons Granular Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Made with .48% of the active ingredient prodiamine, this is a professional turf barricade from the Andersons that is designed to prevent summer annuals from appearing in your prized lawn. This includes crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail.

Most effective when applied in spring and prior to soil temperatures reaching 55 degrees, the DG pro formulation allows for more particles per square inch of the chemical, which significantly improves coverage and leads to better control of the weeds.

One of the best pre-emergent weed killers for lawns there is. This is a commercial-grade product for use around the home that won’t let you down.

Pros

Cons

Monterey LG 5130 Weed Impede Herbicide

Up next is Monterey’s Weed Impede herbicide, the first pre-emergent product in our review that comes in liquid form.

It’s a surface-applied herbicide used for the control of many annual kinds of grass and broadleaf weeds in ornamental plantings, rock gardens, bulbs, and ground covers.

Just one gallon can treat between 40 and 80 thousand square feet. Best applied with a pump-sprayer and mixed with the right amount of water, this will keep just about anything unwanted from sprouting up wherever it’s applied.

It also contains an orange dye so you can see exactly where you’ve treated – which is a bonus not to be underestimated, and highly useful for improving your accuracy.

Pros

Cons

Concern Weed Prevention Plus

Homedepot.com

Concern’s Weed Prevention Plus is an all-natural pre-emergent weed preventer that is safe for use around people and pets, so ideal if you have furry friends or little feet running around.

It prevents weeds while fertilizing your lawn, and one bag can cover up to 1,500 square feet.

Designed to be especially effective against crabgrass and dandelions (the banes of good lawn care), it also adds a lawn food for a healthy turf you can be proud of.

The active ingredient is natural corn gluten, meaning you can avoid those harsher chemicals with this product if you prefer.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

You might be wondering what RM43 is doing on this review of pre-emergent weed killers, and that’s because it works as a weed preventer as well as a spot treatment for existing growth. ANY growth – including murdering nettles.

After application, this will keep any area vegetation-free for up to one year, as well as destroying existing weeds in the process. As such, bear in mind it will kill anything green that it comes into contact with, so care should be taken around your desirable blooms.

Still, there’s not much out there that’s as potent or effective for keeping an area barren of plant life should you so choose. One gallon can treat up to 17,297 square feet, so you have a professional herbicide that is ideal if you need to control larger areas.

Pros

Cons

Tenacity Turf Herbicide

Like the RM43, Tenacity is a pre and post-emergent herbicide – which is why it’s justified its inclusion here. However, that is where the similarities end, as this is a selective herbicide that is safe for use on your turf lawns for getting rid of nuisance weeds only.

Very cost-effective, it’s used for residual control of undesirable plants in turf grasses, and will keep over 46 different broadleaf and grassy weeds away, with an active ingredient that is actually a naturally occurring compound.

Allow your new grass to flourish as Tenacity prevents invasive weeds from choking out your desirable lawn. And check out this article if you prefer to rid your lawn of weeds without harsh chemicals.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Pre-Emergent Herbicide

This is a professional-grade, pre-emergent formula that contains a very high concentration of prodiamine at 65%.

Effective when used around nurseries, landscaping, turf lawns, and trees and shrubs, it’s this kind of product that the pros use when maintaining sports fields such as golf courses and putting greens.

It can be applied in both spring and fall for season-long control and inhibition of crabgrass and broadleaf weeds, and a little goes a very long way with this five-pound bottle.

Best used in a tank sprayer for covering larger areas, Quali-Pro have developed a genuinely effective pre-emergent herbicide with this formula.

Pros

Cons

Dimension 2EW Dithiopyr Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Our final entry in this review of the best pre-emergent herbicides is this Dimension 2EW product with the active ingredient dithiopyr – a root growth inhibitor.

This specialty, professional-grade herbicide provides pre-emergent and early post-emergent control of crabgrass, as well as 45 other nuisance weedy grasses and broadleafs.

In order to achieve post-emergent control, you should be looking at using two pints of the product per acre. Easily mixed in spray tanks, it’s also compatible with other specialty herbicides for maximum effectiveness and control of a wider range of weeds and is residual in the soil for around four months.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Pre-Emergent Weed Killer

In this next section, you’ll find further information and advice for choosing the right pre-emergent weed killer for you.

How Pre-Emergent Herbicides Work

Pre-emergent herbicides are most often used well before plant life has germinated – either in early spring or late fall.

They work by inhibiting a key enzyme that provides an invisible barrier through which seed growth cannot pass. Effectively, a pre-emergent herbicide neutralizes a plant before it has the chance to germinate.

Some products will also contain a fertilizer to feed desirable plants or an established turfgrass at the same time.

Any seedlings that have big ideas for seeing the light of day will be terminated by this invisible film in the soil, created when a pre-emergent herbicide has been applied correctly and watered to activate.

Quantity/Coverage

How much pre-emergent herbicide you need will obviously be determined by how much land you need to cover.

As mentioned, a pre-emergent herbicide is specifically designed for distribution over a wide area, so getting the coverage you need isn’t that challenging.

Again, just make sure you’re referring to the instructions when mixing liquid formulas – as achieving the right balance of water (and surfactant – if required) can often be the trickiest part of the process.

Liquid or Granules?

Pre-emergent herbicides are available in granular or liquid form. So it comes down to choosing one of these types of weed killers.

Granules are much easier to use and usually come with a scoop of some kind to assist with their application.

However, using a dedicated spreader is better if you have a larger area to cover – but they’re always sold separately. If you don’t have access to such a device, I would recommend picking one up second-hand to save a bit of cash.

While granular pre-emergent herbicides are usually cheaper than liquid versions, you’ll get much better coverage with a liquid.

And when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent – accurate and extensive distribution is key – which is where liquid herbicides excel.

Still, it can be a bit of a challenge to get mixing quantities right – especially if you’re using a surfactant (an additional liquid product that breaks surface tension and improves herbicide absorbency).

And liquids need the right kind of applicator to do the job, usually in the form of a tank or backpack sprayer. This I would recommend purchasing brand new – so you know that no other chemical has been used in it and you’re not risking any kind of cross-contamination.

Once both versions have been applied, you need to add water to activate. This is where liquid has another advantage, in that it will take less hosing or rainfall for the herbicide to begin working its magic in the soil.

Whichever version you choose, diligently read and understand the instructions before use.

Selectivity/Targeted Weeds

When choosing any kind of weed killer or preventer, you need to be aware of its selectivity.

Herbicides can be selective, or non-selective. Selective means that they will only treat certain types of plant life. Non-selective means they will attack anything.

When it comes to pre-emergent herbicides, it’s important to learn what the chemical is going to kill, and what it’s going to leave alone – if anything.

This is particularly true if you want to apply a herbicide to your lawn. You need to make sure it’s not going to harm existing, desirable plants and grasses.

This is where having an understanding of weed types is highly beneficial. Check out the video below for an excellent guide.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Pre-Emergent Herbicides

The Pros

Naturally, as with all such chemicals, a pre-emergent herbicide comes with its pros and cons. Let’s start with the good news.

Pre-emergents stop weeds in their tracks, meaning that with proper application and at the right time, you might not see a single weed in a treated area for the length of the season.

And speaking of time, a good pre-emergent will be effective for up to one year, and no less than three months – depending on quality.

Finally, the coverage square footage of a pre-emergent herbicide is a very attractive proposition for anyone with larger yards and gardens. Applying this solution is usually much easier and faster than a post-emergent weed killer.

Once again – prevention is much better than cure. For more information, have a look at this article on when to apply weed control.

The Cons

Now for the bad news. Post-emergent herbicides are useless on already established weeds and grasses – and you’d be surprised at just how many people get this wrong and complain when it has had no effect.

(There are one or two products that incorporate both types of herbicide, however, and will kill existing weeds and then keep the treated area plant-free. Still, standard pre-emergent weed killers do not kill visible weeds.)

Also, the timing and temperature of applying pre-emergent needs to be just-so – especially for the effective treatment of crabgrass.

If you’re too late or too early in spring or fall then you won’t have effective results. Whichever product you decide to try, make sure you adhere to the directions completely.

Last but certainly not least, pre-emergent weed killers are rarely pet-friendly. It’s highly advisable you keep children and animals inside – at least until the product has been watered into the soil, and has had a chance to dry.

FAQs

What month do you put down pre-emergent?

Always refer to a particular product’s directions (as they can vary from brand to brand) for the best month to apply the formula. By and large, you’ll want to be putting down a pre-emergent in the early spring or fall.

Certain pre-emergents can be applied throughout the season, but for the most part, the barrier should be down before weeds have a chance to grow – so get in early.

It will also depend on what weed you want to target, so again, make sure you know thy enemy before charging into battle.

Choosing the right product and using it at the right time is essential for your success.

What is the best time to apply a pre-emergent weed killer?

Again, it depends on the type of weed you’re looking to control, and the pre-emergent you’re using. Always read the label.

Check out the excellent video below for advice on using a pre-emergent in the spring – which is when most gardeners will be keen to block forthcoming weeds.

What is the best soil temperature for applying a pre-emergent weed killer?

For best results, you should be applying a pre-emergent herbicide BEFORE the soil has been at a temperature of 55 degrees or above for between 36 and 72 hours.

55 degrees is like DEFCON 1. When the soil temperature goes above that number for a sustained period of time, that’s when seeds begin to germinate, weeds start to become a problem, and then you’re at war.

You can use a soil thermometer, or you can contact your local county extension service for agricultural advice and soil readings in your area.

Alternatively, use this excellent soil temperature map and locate your area.

However, you’ll find that the soil will be around this temperature from March to April for the spring application of pre-emergents.

How long does pre-emergent last?

The residual effects of a pre-emergent herbicide will depend on the particular product you’re purchasing.

Generally speaking, you’ll find they last between 3-12 months. Check the label or specifications for further details before adding to the cart.

Can you put down too much pre-emergent?

Yes – and it can be a seriously grave error if you do with potentially disastrous results.

ALWAYS make sure you adhere to the guidelines on the product label – and like any drug or medicine you might take – never exceed the stated dose.

Also, be aware that the misuse of chemicals in and around your home and property can land you in serious trouble with the law. So, be sure to read that label thoroughly.

How soon can I seed after pre-emergent?

Depending on the pre-emergent (some products you won’t be able to seed at all) you should be waiting between 7-10 days before attempting any new work.

Can I put down pre-emergent and fertilizer at the same time?

Yes, and there are products that contain both – particularly in the Preen and Scotts ranges.

Just make sure you water them both down into the soil well.

Should you mow before pre-emergent?

You don’t have to, but it is recommended that your lawn isn’t a jungle when you apply a pre-emergent herbicide. You want the product to be watered into the soil, and that will be easier to accomplish if the grass isn’t too high.

Don’t mow your lawn for a few days after application though, so you can allow the stuff to take hold.

Will rain wash away pre-emergent?

No – in fact, quite the opposite.

Unlike a post-emergent weed killer, you want it to rain after you apply a pre-emergent, because it will save you from having to water the area you’ve treated, and activate the herbicide defense barrier in the soil.

Can you put pre-emergent on wet grass?

No. It won’t be as effective.

Apply the herbicide before it’s due to rain on dry grass and soil, and then water it yourself if no rain is forecast.

Should you water after using a pre-emergent?

Yes! That is how you allow the chemical to activate and get to work protecting your soil and preventing weeds from germinating.

It’s best to add around 1/4-inch of water to the treated area once you’ve applied the herbicide.

Does pre-emergent kill existing weeds?

It depends on the product. Certain pre-emergent weed preventers also incorporate post-emergent weed killers – so they’ll kill anything they come into contact with and keep that area totally plant free for the foreseeable future.

However, by and large, pre-emergent herbicides are useless for killing already established weeds – particularly if they’re already visible through the soil or concrete.

Check out this article for the best weed killers for driveways if you need a post-emergent product that will destroy unwanted plant life where it shouldn’t be growing in the first place.

Summary

The world of herbicides is a complex one, and finding the right product and figuring out the right time for application can be a real headache.

I hope this article and review has helped you choose the best pre-emergent weed killer for your garden project, and that you have much success in keeping weeds at bay as a result.

For my lawn, I would choose the Tenacity product, and possibly the Preen Weed Preventer with plant food for around desirable foliage in landscape beds.

Let me know which pre-emergent you would choose and why.

If you are dealing with more than just weeds, but there are also stumps to kill, take a look at the best stump killers that we recommend.

Happy weeding!

Just when you thought you have gotten rid of them, there they are again springing back up and bringing terror to your lawn.

And that’s not all…

It’s so hard to get rid of them because there are a lot of different kinds that vary treatment.

One of the most common ones is the dollar weed., and nope, it’s not as glamorous as having real dollars. They are pesky little weeds that can take over your lawn!

I know you don’t want that to happen, so we’re here to help you get rid of Dollar weeds that are growing on your lawn. We whipped up a complete guide so that you can identify, remove, and prevent dollar weeds from your lawn.

Let’s begin!

What is Dollar Weed?

Dollar weed, also known as pennywort, is a member of the parsley family which originated from Asia. They have rounded, bright green leaves with wavy edges and has white flowers that bloom from July up to August.

The name Dollar weed was based on its shape. Its glossy and round leaves resemble a silver dollar. They grow in moist and shady portions of the lawn, garden, or even unplanted areas.

This weed can float even on the water so they are very difficult to deal with when left uncontrolled.

They thrive in warm climates so if you’re from the southern part of the US and other temperate regions, beware!

How to Identify a Dollar Weed?

If you spot weeds in your lawn, you don’t wanna act on it just yet.

Why?

Because you want to make sure that you use the treatment or method for that specific type of weed. Some can require different treatment so you have to identify the species first.

So you already know about Dollar weeds being common to warmer regions and have a silver dollar-like appearance, but here are additional indicators to identify Dollar weeds:

Got it?

These descriptions can help you make sure that you are dealing with the right Dollar weeds. But if you’re still unsure and skeptical, you can avail yourself professional help in identifying and actually exterminating those pesky weeds.

Why are There Dollar Weeds in My Lawn?

If you found out there are dollar weeds growing in your lawn, the main culprit is too much water. And this can be caused by a number of things like over-watering, too much rain, the poor-draining quality of the soil, or the layer of grass being thin.

From these situations, dollar weeds can expect to grow rapidly and take over your lawn if you don’t act fast. This grass spreads via seeds or from the underground roots.

This means that if you want to remove them, you have to be precise in killing them all to prevent them from coming back.

Is Dollar Weed an Enemy or a Friend?

Simply put…

Dollar weeds are one of your lawn’s mortal enemies.

Just like any other weed that has ever existed, they do not pose a benefit to gardens and lawns, aside from their ability to produce oxygen. But then again, we’re talking about yards here!

If you want to make your lawn look the best it can be, with bright and healthy grass that is distributed evenly, you have to get rid of those dollar weeds!

They are very damaging to your lawn because they compete with the water and nutrients that are supposed to be for your intended plants. They decrease the yield of your plants and impede the growth of grasses.

May it is a garden of any sort of plants or a field of beautiful grass, Dollar weeds can take over space if left uncontrolled.

You don’t want that, do you?

What Kills Dollar Weeds?

Technically, weeds can be pulled by hand. You can get rid of Dollar weeds through that method, but you have to be extra precise when doing it. You have to pull it all out especially the roots because it will keep growing back.

You can do this for a small number of dollar weeds growing in your lawn but if you are dealing with a large area, this is very tedious, time-consuming, and may not even be possible executing perfectly.

During this moment, you can rely on various remedies to get rid of your dollar weeds. Not only they are easier but more efficient in killing and even preventing the weeds from coming back.

Chemical Treatment

Chemical applications are the most efficient way of dealing with weeds because they are scientifically designed for that purpose.

There are a lot of weed killers available on the market today. They are mostly grass and pet safe, so you don’t have to worry about it affecting things around you.

For only a few dollar weeds or a small patch of them, you can spot treat them using ready-to-use dollar weed killers like Roundup® For Lawns Southern Formula Ready-To-Use. These are effective in killing to the roots, so the weeds won’t grow back.

For bigger areas crawling with Dollar weeds, you can use Weed & Feed products or Herbicides.

Weed and Feed products are used to treat larger dollar weed problems. These products kill weeds, including dollar weeds of course, yet providing the lawn with nutrients, hence the feeding part. You can see these in the market are specifically labeled as weed-and-feed.

Examples of these that kill Dollar weeds are Scotts Turf Builder Bonus S Southern Weed & Feed and Scotts Turf Builder Southern Triple Action. Just read and follow the instructions written and you’re good to go!

Herbicides, on the other hand, are more specific in killing the weeds and they are widely used for this purpose.

To kill Dollar weeds fast and easily, you can use herbicides such as MSM Turf herbicide or Fahrenheit herbicide. MSM turf herbicide, when applied to your lawn, will only do its job to the weeds and will not affect your grass. It can be applied through a hand pump, hose, or backpack sprayer and can cover up to one acre of the lawn.

Meanwhile, Fahrenheit herbicide is a composition of water-soluble granules also used to kill Dollar weeds. It can also be used in large volume and area treatment, and it offers a wider variety in terms of application.

Other herbicides that are proven to get rid of Dollar weeds are Atrizine, Image (Imazaquin), 2,4-D, Blade, Manor, and Monument.

They are all safe for use in various types of grasses like Zoysia, St. Augustine, Bermuda, and Centipede grasses.

It’s only a question of choosing one of the many weed killer types available.

Here’s a simple procedure on how you can apply chemical herbicides to get rid of Dollar weeds.

Step #1: Measure the Treatment Area

Calculate the square footage where you will apply the herbicides. You can do this by multiplying the length and width of the designated space. This can help you determine the right amount of product that you should apply to the lawn.

Step #2: Mix the Herbicide Solution

Herbicides that are available in the market have their recommended mixing proportion. For example, MSM Turf Herbicide recommends .125 ounces mixed with 1 ounce of water per acre of land that will be treated. Given that you have a 1,000 square foot area, you would mix 1 oz. of MSM turf herbicide with 32 ounces of water in a hose-end sprayer.

For average applications, a 1-gallon pump would be great to easily apply the treatment.

Step #3: Apply Solution to Dollar weeds

After filling up your sprayer, you can not apply the solution to the area you want to treat. People use fan nozzles to get even coverage to the area.

Don’t water the lawn for a day to let the solution soak in and be absorbed by the weeds. You should see the changes after 14 days and in some cases, you should reapply after 3 weeks.

Things to remember:

Organic Treatment

We know that some people are very conscious of what they apply to their gardens and lawns and that’s not bad at all.

Though chemical applications are proven effective for the job, they are composed of inorganic chemicals that contribute to land and water pollution. Thus, there is a great reason for people who want natural options.

And we have just the tips for you!

These alternatives can help you get rid of Dollar weeds on your lawn without leaving traces of the chemicals. Just take note that these may or may not be effective for everyone but these are worth trying before resorting to chemicals.

There are a lot of ways to get rid of weeds without chemicals. You can always try them and see what works for you.

Can Dollar Weeds Grow Back?

Let’s say you’ve managed to get rid of Dollar weeds this time, should you still worry about them?

Well, if you’re confident that you got them all, then you shouldn’t worry about it in the near future. However, it doesn’t mean that you will not deal with them forever.

So, we also have tips for you to prevent Dollar weeds from growing back. Here are some points to remember to protect your turf from Dollar weeds.

Feed Your Lawn Properly

Feeding your lawn with the right fertilizers can make the grass grow thick and strong. This can help overtake weeds if there are a few that are starting to spring up. Feed your lawns 2 to 4 times a year to provide the right amount of nutrients.

Water Less

If Dollar weeds are your main concern, then lessening your irrigation can help you get rid of them. Since Dollar weeds are water-loving plants, you should never overwater the lawn.

Thus, you should limit your lawn’s irrigation to only an inch of water per week. This allows the soil to dry out and prevents Dollar weeds from growing and spreading further.

You can also improve the drainage of your soil by aerating it. Aerating the soil lessens water retention.

Mow High

Mowing at the right height for your specific grass helps its leaves to grow thicker and its root system to grow deeper.

To get rid of Dollar weeds in St. Augustine grass or Floratam grass, we would advise mowing the grass to about 3 to 4 inches. Mow Zoysia and Centipede grass to 2 to 3 inches while 1.5 to 2 inches for Bermuda grass.

FAQs

Why do I have so much dollar on my lawn?

One main reason as to why you have Dollar weeds on your lawn is overwatering and saturation of the soil.

Dollar weeds love wet environments and they spread easily in this condition

Will Dollar weeds take over grass?

If left uncontrolled, Dollar weeds can take over your grass.

Should I ask for professional help?

For a small Dollar weed problem, spot treatment can be easily done on your own.

But if you are dealing with a large area, you can opt to call for professional help to make sure that the lawn is treated in the best way.

Summary

Now you learned how to get rid of Dollar weeds. You can now identify them and plan out the best solution for your weed problem.

Share us your Dollar weed stories! Good luck and Happy Gardening.

And two popular products that always receive plenty of buzz around the growing season are seaweed and fish fertilizers.

But what exactly are they? Are they the same thing? What’s the difference?

And how much do they smell?!

In this article, we take a look at seaweed fertilizer vs fish fertilizer, and help you choose the right formula for your yard.

Seaweed and Fish Emulsion – The Short Version

Let’s keep things short and simple for anyone who just needs the abridged summary of this article:

Fish emulsion and seaweed fertilizer are two different things – and should not be confused.

Fish fertilizer can mean fish emulsion, fish meal, and fish hydrolysate – but they are not the same. We’ll explain more about this, below.

Fish fert is used to improve overall soil health, increasing its fertility by adding essential nutrients that plant life needs.

Seaweed fert is also used as a soil conditioner, and it will improve soil texture and water retention, as well as help to reduce the occurrence of pests and disease.

Both options are extremely beneficial to plant life in general and can encourage strong, healthy roots, as well as bright, colorful flowers, and high vegetable yields.

So, which do you choose? Read on to find out!

What is Seaweed Fertilizer?

As you might expect, seaweed fertilizer is made from seaweed.

Thank you, Captain Obvious.

It’s an organic formula that is used to boost soil fertility and plant growth, as seaweed absorbs beneficial nutrients and minerals from the seas and oceans it’s found in.

Living in a tidal environment, seaweed will spend some of its life underwater, as well as the times its drying in the sun. And that is a winning combination for developing plant-boosting goodness.

Being plant based itself, seaweed fertilizer is seen as a fully organic option, and is becoming more and more popular for use in 100% organic gardening. Follow that link for more tips on growing green!

As a result, you’ll find that most seaweed fertilizers are OMRI listed (Organic Materials Review Institute).

Alternatively, if organic gardening isn’t your thing, check out this article on different types of gardening methods to find your niche.

Seaweed Fertilizer Uses

By benefiting a plant’s overall health, and vigor, seaweed fertilizer can be used pretty much anywhere in the garden – and in your houseplants, too!

It helps to support the thickness of a plant’s cellular wall, which can in turn help to prevent disease. Used just before winter, a seaweed fertilizer can also improve a plant’s resistance to the cold.

And while we’re on that subject, click this link to find out how you can protect your grass from frost, to help see your lawn through the winter.

Seaweed fertilizer is perfect for use when transplanting, as it reduces transplant shock when moving plants into a new environment.

Seaweed fert can be used to help new seeds germinate. Soak the seeds overnight in a properly diluted solution, or spray them after sowing.

Check out this article on the different types of grass seeds if you’re looking to repair or start a new lawn.

In fact, there isn’t really a situation in the garden that wouldn’t benefit from seaweed fertilizer – given the fact that it’s an all-natural product.

And it is still possible to burn plants with this type of product – especially if you incorrectly dispense a commercially available liquid seaweed concentrate.

Seaweed Fertilizer Advantages

Seaweed Fertilizer Disadvantages

What is Fish Fertilizer?

To many new green thumbs, the thought of adding fish-related products to the garden might be a little perplexing, at first!

Yet the remains of our aquatic friends contain loads of nutrients and minerals that they’ve absorbed during a life in the sea.

And it’s these nutrients and minerals that we want, as they can be highly beneficial to the plant life in our yards.

But what is a fish fertilizer actually made from?

If you’re eating, I apologize!

Fish fertilizers are organic formulas that are most commonly available in a concentrated liquid form,  although there are dry feeds available – such as fish meal.

This is derived from a process that prevents usable fish products from going to waste, and there are three, main types.

Fish Emulsion

This type of fish fert is created by cooking fish carcasses at high temperatures, and then grinding them into a paste, which includes the scales, skin, guts, and bones.

The oils are then removed – and used for other industries – such as health and beauty products.

Sulphuric acid might be added to balance out the pH levels.

This fishy sludge is then strained, and the liquid that remains is called “fish emulsion.” If you think the bottle smells bad, imagine how it is at the processing plant!

Fish Hydrolysate

Imagine the above process but without the oils removed. Fish hydrolysate is just pure, 100% fish waste, cooked and ground into a concentrated liquid.

While it’s usually more expensive than emulsion, it’s much more beneficial to your plants, as it doesn’t remove all the extra goodness contained in the fish oil.

Fish Meal

Basically, fish meal is what’s leftover from fish oil production – grinding and cooking the fish, and drying and pressing the meat and bones. It makes an excellent soil amendment, and is easily composted.

Fish meal also doesn’t smell nearly as bad as liquid fish fertilizers – so this might be an option if you really can’t stand the odor.

This article on liquid vs granular fertilizers is highly recommended if you’re struggling with choosing between dry and wet products.

A quick word on the environmental impact of fish fertilizers. It is thought that some products are made from fish that have been specifically caught for this purpose.

And speaking of eco-friendly, this article on nature-approved lawn care is a good place to start for going green; but you might not want a patch of grass at all after you’ve read the history of lawns!

Fish Fertilizer Uses

A good, responsibly sourced fish fertilizer can be used just about anywhere in your garden – your plants are going to love it!

The beauty of these organic fertilizers is that they contain a lot of micronutrients, such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and chlorine.

Plants need a total of 17 different nutrients to really thrive, and not just the “big three” NPK numbers (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)).

That said, nitrogen is the most important of these, and fish fertilizer happens to have a lot of it, because fish are high in protein. It also has phosphorus and potassium elements, too.

Use a fish fertilizer on your lawn in the early spring – and you’ll see the benefits by the time BBQ season comes around!

Fish Fertilizer Advantages

Fish Fertilizer Disadvantages

If you do happen to overuse any kind of fertilizer, this article on how to reverse lawn fertilizer burn might be able to help.

When to Use Fish/Seaweed Fertilizers

The beauty of these two products is that it doesn’t have to be an either-or conundrum.

Used simultaneously, your garden will reap the benefits from both types of fertilizer. You can even purchase liquid seaweed and fish emulsion products that already combine the two.

I would suggest trying a seaweed fertilizer on your flowers and veggies, and a fish fertilizer as part of your lawn care schedule. Don’t miss our month-by-month guide to lawn maintenance while you’re here!

Both options are best applied when plants are actively growing. Take a look at the video below which shows the results of a fish and seaweed fertilizer application.

And for a catch-all guide to feeding the plant life in your yard, head over to this article that fully explains when and how often you should fertilize your garden.

Other Types of Fertilizers

Of course, there are many more different types of lawn fertilizers out there to give your lawn the much-needed boost it deserves.

Follow the link above for a full article on what’s available.

Alternatively, you might also be tempted to make your own, which can also be used in other areas of your garden – such as flower beds and vegetable patches.

Check out this article on DIY fertilizers, and pay particular attention to the organic “compost tea” recipe!

And read on to find out if you can make your own fish fertilizer, too.

FAQs

How do you make fish waste fertilizer?

Like many DIY fertilizers, there are several recipes/methods available when it comes to making your own fish-based product at home.

It also takes a bit of time, and effort on your part, and while it can save you money in the long run, it can be a laborious – and extremely smelly – process.

Still, if you’d like to give it a go, watching this video is the perfect way to get started.

Can you use seaweed fertilizer on indoor plants?

Yes! Seaweed fert is excellent for indoor plants – but you need to make sure you have your quantities right when mixing liquids.

A rule of thumb is one teaspoon of product to one gallon of water – but always double-check the instructions to be sure.

Does fertilizer have a shelf life?

As mentioned above, many of these products can be used indefinitely (five to ten years), providing they haven’t been opened/diluted.

This article on fertilizer shelf life will tell you more – but just make sure to always read the label.

Summary

There is a distinct difference between these two products, but when it comes to seaweed fertilizer vs fish fertilizer – which is the best?

There isn’t a clear winner, as they both have different uses for helping boost the plant life in your yard.

(Although if it’s a choice between the two, I’d go with seaweed fert every single time!)

Let me know which option you prefer, or if you have any fish/seaweed fertilizer tips and/or experience you’d like to share with the community.

Stay safe out there, and happy gardening!

And even if you’ve managed to put down one of these excellent pre-emergent herbicides, they can still slip through the cracks and spoil your landscaping.

Be it in flower beds, vegetable patches, on patios and driveways, along fences or across your lawn – life finds a way.

So, I’ve put together a review of the best post-emergent herbicides – for treating weeds and unwanted vegetation that has already taken hold and is visible through the soil.

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow to help you choose the right product for your needs – and the needs of your garden.

There’s no place left to hide for weeds.

The 12 Best Post-Emergent Herbicides 2026

BioAdvanced Weed Control for Lawn

Homedepot.com

To start us off we have a combination of a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. This hose applied product from BioAdvanced can cover up to 7,500 square feet, and when used as directed it will kill existing lawn weeds while not harming your lawn.

Once laid down, it will then protect the surface and prevent weeds from springing back up for six months. The 2-in-1 formula is easy to use and delivers season-long weed control that you can apply anytime from spring through to the fall, and it kills over 200 listed weeds, including dandelion and clover.

For the price, it’s one of the best post-emergent weed killers for lawns there is.

Pros

Cons

Ortho Groundclear Weed and Grass Killer

Homedepot.com

This Groundclear product from Ortho is an OMRI listed herbicide for organic use and safe to use all-around your property. Upon spot treatment with the weed wand included (which is a highly accurate method of application), it gets to work immediately for visible results inside 15 minutes.

Use on patios, landscape beds, walkways, vegetable gardens and around trees and shrubs to keep your existing weed problems in check, and you can apply it at any time of year when weeds are actively growing.

Check this article for more great weed killers for driveways – but you can use this just about anywhere.

Pros

Cons

Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed

Scotts need little introduction when it comes to lawn care, and this is their popular and well-known weed and feed product. It works as a pre and post-emergent herbicide, with a low percentage of 2,4-D that selectively attacks dandelions, clover, and other nuisance weeds.

With a weed-grip technology that combats the plants you can and can’t see, it’s a highly useful lawn feeder and protector that’s best applied in spring to thicken your desirable turf and crowd out the unwanted vegetation.

Probably the best granular post-emergent weed killer for lawns available.

Pros

Cons

Compare-N-Save Concentrate Grass & Weed Killer

The first (and certainly not the last) of our post-emergent weed killers to contain glyphosate, this Compare N Save offering certainly will save you a packet compared to the big-name brands.

One gallon of this stuff makes up to 85 gallons of lethal liquid death, and the 41% concentration of its active ingredient will be merciless to anything green in your garden.

That means you can cover over 25,000 square feet and see visible results between two and four days. There’s no residual activity, so ornamental treated areas can be replanted as soon as a day after spraying (but fruit and vegetable plots vary).

Pros

Cons

Southern Ag CROSSBOW32 Weed & Brush Killer

Many landscaping professionals, farmers, or anyone who wishes to get rid of unwanted trees and brush swear by Southern Ag’s Crossbow product.

For use on rangeland, grass pastures, and non-crop areas, the 34.4% 2,4-D formula with added triclopyr leaves grasses unaffected but is deadly to the likes of blackberry vines, poison ivy, kudzu, creeping charlie and multiflora rose – as well as offering the ability to kill most annual and perennial broadleaf weeds.

Offering excellent coverage, with a variety of application methods, and good value for money, you can see why it’s the go-to nuisance tree and brush exterminator for the pros. One of the best post-emergent selective herbicides there is.

Pros

Cons

Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer

Following right on the footsteps of their Crossbow product, Southern Ag offers this 2,4-D weed killer – a highly potent option for killing broadleaf weeds – without damaging existing lawn turf.

Providing selective weed control for use in and around pastures, rangeland, cemeteries, parks, and golf courses – this is a professional product that you can use around your home (just be very careful in its application and avoid drift to desirable plants).

A full list of weeds controlled is included on the label, and the economical use means that you get a lot of bang for your buck with the quantity. Try one of these lawn aerators before use for the best performance and results.

Pros

Cons

Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed & Grass Killer

I always try to include an organic, pet-safe weed killer if it’s compatible with the review, and the Green Gobbler is my go-to recommendation here.

Made with 20% industrial-strength vinegar, it’s four times stronger than traditional table vinegar, extracted from ethanol distilled from corn grain. With no glyphosate insight, you can kill weeds and grass all around your garden, as well as for commercial, industrial, and agricultural use.

No mixing is required and it’s ready right out of the container, and OMRI listed as safe around organics. And take a look at this review for more excellent pet-safe weed killers if you prefer not to use harsh chemicals in your garden.

Pros

Cons

Spectracide Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate

Homedepot.com

A return to more familiar weed killers now with this concentrated product from Spectracide. Able to eliminate poison ivy, clover, dandelion, and other listed weeds, it’s a potent formula that’s safe for use on patios, walkways, and around flower beds.

A non-selective herbicide, you can cover up to 6000 square feet when mixed with water and applied with a tank sprayer. Spectracide will kill to the root and you will see visible results within three hours, with the ability to replant in the treated area as early as the following day. And check out this article for more of the best weed killers for use around flower beds.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

RM43 is a professional, popular, pre and post-emergent herbicide. If you want to clear an area of any plant life – and for it to stay clear – then this is the product for you.

One gallon will treat up to 17,297 square feet, and it will keep any treated area weed and plant-free for up to one year. Designed for use around fence rows, gravel paths, sidewalks, driveways, parking areas, and around farm buildings and barns, this is an agricultural-grade product that’s available for your use around your home.

The best post-emergent herbicide for crabgrass (or any grass for that matter) this will kill everything – so take great care when dealing out the death.

Pros

Cons

PBI Gordon – Ornamec Grass Herbicide

Now, this was a late entry into the post-emergent herbicide review, as I stumbled upon it researching something that would kill Bermuda grass. This certainly does that, designed for the control of unwanted grasses in groundcovers, trees, and shrubs.

Nearly 500 species of plants can be brought to heel by using this “over-the-top” product from PBI Gordon.

A selective, post-emergent herbicide, it will control annual grasses such as panicum, goosegrass, crabgrass, foxtail, sandbur, and barnyard grass, as well as the tricky Bermuda grass that some people love and others will hate – depending on your location.

Apply anywhere grass weeds are crowding out your desirable plants.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate

Our final Roundup product is the penultimate entry in this review and is one of the most potent weed killers in their range.

The purple-capped super concentrate contains 50.2% glyphosate, which is one of the highest you can buy and is marketed as the best Roundup product for widespread weed problems.  If you have a lot of stubborn plants to kill over a large area, then the buck stops here.

Designed for use in tank sprayers, this will rain liquid death down on anything green it touches, so be sure you know what you’re doing and where you’re applying it. You’ll see visible results within 48 hours.

Pros

Cons

Monterey Remuda Concentrated Herbicide

Homedepot.com

Last but not least is this Monterey Remuda concentrated herbicide, also with a high concentration of glyphosate at 41%. It also contains a surfactant, which is a bonus for improving coverage and absorption by the plants it is targeted to treat.

For use in unplanted areas and around trees, shrubs, and flower beds, one pint of this stuff offers an impressive 320 gallons of potent herbicide that will cover a whopping 320,000 square feet.

Most effective when used in temperatures of 70 degrees and above, this is a commercial-grade weed killer for anyone deadly serious about plant death. A compression sprayer is recommended.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Post-Emergent Herbicide

Below you’ll find plenty of tips and advice to assist you in choosing the right post-emergent herbicide for you.

How Post-Emergent Herbicides Work

The clue is in the name for post-emergent herbicides, and they’re designed to work after a plant has established itself and broken through the soil.

Post-emergent herbicides work best when the unwanted vegetation is actually growing.

How it does this depends on the individual product and the active ingredient it contains. It’s not one size fits all, and there is a huge variety of herbicides that attack weeds in different ways.

Post-emergents will contain a number of different chemicals or ingredients that are designed to inhibit plants and exterminate them. For more information, read this excellent, in-depth article on how herbicides work.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Post-Emergent Herbicides

The pros and cons of post-emergent herbicides are well documented, but let’s just briefly touch on them here for simplicity’s sake.

Their greatest asset is that they are very effective at what they do – particularly when it comes to the more potent weed-killing chemicals – such as glyphosate.

Certain products will burn down a problem weed in a matter of hours, and in a couple of days, it will be stone dead. For others, it might take a few weeks – but you should still get good results eventually.

Aside from this, they are very easy to use, with a variety of application methods available depending on where, what, and how much you’re treating.

Unfortunately, that’s where the advantages stop. Post-emergent herbicides are, with some exceptions, dangerous, toxic chemicals.

These formulas can cause a detrimental impact on the environment, not to mention to the people who use them, their children, and pets.

And unintentional spread can be difficult to control – especially when treating larger areas with a tank or backpack sprayer. Even the slightest breeze or misdirected application can cause a non-selective herbicide to come into contact with desirable vegetables, plants, and blooms.

Often a necessary evil, weed killers should be handled with great caution – and by people who know exactly what they’re doing.

But have a look at this article for how to get rid of weeds in a lawn without using chemicals. I always try to encourage more natural ways whenever possible.

Quantity/Coverage

As with all weed killers, the amount you purchase will depend on how much land you need to cover, or how large your weed problem is.

If you’re treating one or two weeds, you can use a spot treatment with a trigger or weed wand. This herbicide will likely come in a ready-to-use bottle.

For larger areas, a tank/compression sprayer or hose applicator might be called for. Often, a herbicide that is distributed in this manner will come as a concentrate – and require diluting with water.

A surfactant might be required – which is an additional liquid that is added to help break the surface tension between the weed killer and the target. Surfactants help the herbicide go further and be absorbed faster.

Either way, try to purchase quantities that you know you’re going to use. Herbicides have a shelf-life – and will become ineffective and wasteful if surplus to requirements.

Application Method

As previously mentioned, post-emergent herbicides can be dispensed in a variety of ways, and they come in the form of either liquid or granules.

Granular post-emergent weed killers are applied either with a dedicated spreader or by simply shaking the bag or box of product where you require.

The best liquid post-emergent weed killers are applied either with a trigger gun, a weed wand, a hose applicator, or a tank/backpack sprayer.

The method you choose will depend on the area you’re covering, the results you’re trying to achieve, and the type of weeds you’re attempting to treat.

Selectivity/Targeted Weeds

Like pre-emergent weed killers, their post-emergent counterparts can either be selective or non-selective when it comes to the plants they are designed to target.

Selective weed killers will only attack certain plant life. They’re best used in lawn care where you don’t want a herbicide to damage your existing turf grasses, but you do need it to clear undesirable weeds.

Non-selective weed killers will go after just about anything that’s green. They’re best used when you want an area completely devoid of any kind of vegetation.

Before making your purchase, you should know the types of weeds your preferred product is or is not going to kill. All too often mistakes are made and the wrong kind of herbicide is purchased for the wrong job. And keep in mind there are many weed killer types to choose from so it’s good to know more about them.

When in doubt, check the label. All herbicides should list the plants that they will attack, so you know if you’re purchasing the right product for your needs.

And I’ve yet to see a better video than the one below to help you with weed identification.

Rainproofing and Persistence

Apart from the timing of application, perhaps the most notable difference between a pre and post-emergent herbicide is to do with how long it lasts in the soil.

It’s not always the case, but generally, a pre-emergent herbicide will last several weeks/months longer than a post-emergent.

While there are post-emergent herbicides that have lengthy residual times in the soil, for the most part, they don’t hang around. This is so you can be free to plant desirable foliage and flowers within a few days of application.

Aside from that, pre-emergent herbicides require water to be activated, whereas post-emergent herbicides will not be effective if they’re washed off their target plants.

There’s also a risk that surface run-off will carry potentially dangerous chemicals into water courses and unwanted areas.

Post-emergent weed killers, therefore, come with guidelines on when the formula will be rainproof, which could be anywhere between ten minutes to over two hours.

Either way, it’s a good idea not to apply a post-emergent herbicide if rain is forecast – just to be on the safe side.

Additionally, both pre and post-emergent weed killers need to be fully dry before they stand any chance of being pet and human friendly, so keep animals and children away until that happens.

Active Ingredients

It’s important to know and understand the active ingredient of a weed killer. This will basically inform you what is actually doing the killing – and how that killing will take place.

Different chemicals, compounds, and formulas will attack weed and plant life in different ways. Some might be root inhibitors, others might prevent the protection of chlorophyll, or affect cell membrane production.

Understand the active ingredient will also help you understand which plants the herbicide will or will not attack.

From a safety perspective, some active ingredients are more harmful to us humans than others – so care must be taken with their use.

FAQs

Is Roundup a post-emergent?

It depends on which Roundup product you’re talking about as their range is extensive and it can be a challenge to choose the right one.

While most Roundup products are post-emergent herbicides, the brand also manufactures some pre-emergent weed preventers, too.

Check to see when the product is applied for confirmation.

When should I apply post-emergent?

Again, it depends on the particular product.

Some post-emergent herbicides are best applied at a certain time of year, or in certain temperatures and soil conditions.

But they will nearly all be most effective when applied in early spring when the weed is young and growing.

Having said that, a post-emergent herbicide is designed to attack and kill weeds that have already grown and are established – so feel free to unleash the liquid death whenever you see weeds protruding from the soil.

What is the strongest post-emergent weed killer?

There are a few contenders for the crown of strongest post-emergent weed killer, but it’s really all speculative and can depend on where and what you’re treating.

Anything with a high concentration of the active ingredient is going to be pretty deadly – toxic or otherwise.

The Southern Ag, RM43, Roundup, Monterey, and Spectracide brands all have products that are extremely potent – but so do the lesser-known versions.

Head on over to this article on the best commercial weed killers if you’d like to know who the pros use, and then you can make your own mind up which is the strongest.

Sometimes, trial and error is the only way to know for sure.

Does post-emergent kill grass?

It certainly will if it’s non-selective.

Selective post-emergent herbicides are available that only attack certain weeds, thus keeping your prized lawn intact while literally weeding out the invaders.

However, the vast majority of post-emergent weed killers are non-selective and are designed to simply destroy everything green that they touch.

Double-check your labels – and always dispense with great care, regardless of what category a particular herbicide falls under.

Can I apply pre-emergent and post-emergent at the same time?

You can – there’re no restrictions placed on the timing of application between a pre or post-emergent herbicide.

However, pre-emergents are most effective when laid in the early spring, fall, or early winter, whereas post-emergents thrive from late spring to mid-fall.

Not to mention the fact that you could well be trying to use a bunch of different chemicals that can treat some weeds but not others – which would prove a waste of time and money in the long run.

Certain products are useful as both pre and post-emergent herbicides, so when treating an area you not only kill existing weeds but it will remain clear of vegetation for a given period of time after application.

I would suggest trying them before attempting to concoct your own, crazy mix.

Furthermore, depending on the chemicals involved, there are likely application limits set by law, and mixing high concentrations of pre and post-emergent weed killers might be in breach of that – depending on your state’s regulations.

For more information, have a root around on the herbicides page of the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

In short, it’s best to err on the side of caution and only use one product at a time – and when it is recommended to do so.

Again, always refer to the labels – because they are literally the law.

What is the difference between pre-emergent and post-emergent?

A pre-emergent herbicide is designed to stop weeds from germinating. It is usually applied before the temperature of the soil reaches 55 degrees in spring, but it can also be used in the fall and early winter to prevent certain grasses or weeds from arriving the following year.

A post-emergent herbicide is for when the weeds have already broken through the soil, they’re visible, invasive, and growing. Post-emergent herbicides can be applied throughout the season to spot or blanket treat nuisance weeds and vegetation.

What herbicide will kill everything?

If you absolutely, positively, want to kill everything green, then choose a non-selective herbicide with a high concentration of its active ingredient.

This is most likely to be glyphosate – the world’s most popular weed killer.

It does not discriminate –  a high percentage of this stuff will pretty much destroy any plant life in your yard or garden.

However, it’s at your own risk. Glyphosate products have been on the receiving end of some seriously negative press over the past few years.

Summary

Herbicides are a controversial topic, but many gardeners the world over still swear by them for keeping their lawns and landscapes weed-free.

While prevention is better than cure (and good garden practices can help) the best post-emergent herbicides are often a necessary evil.

I would always choose the more organic, natural option if I had to use one – in this case, the Green Gobbler product.

But to each their own – let me know which product you would choose and why. Whatever you decide, always make sure to apply it safely, with care, and in accordance with the instructions.

Best of luck and happy weeding!