Ground hornets are almost impossible to miss since they have large bodies. Their physique helps them catch other bugs, and they have a very predatory nature. If you notice these imposing bees flying around your home, it is best to learn how to get rid of ground hornets in case they are living close by.

The Basics of Ground Hornets

Hornets are larger than ground bees and have a more dangerous sting. There is no difference between ground hornets and tree hornets when it comes to size. They choose a different place to build their nest, and that’s it.

Ground hornets can inhabit walls as well as old tree stumps. However, their favorite place is dry or loose soil.

Just like every animal that digs holes in the yard, hornets don’t like obstacles. They could also live in flowerbeds. Considering their nests are underground, the removal is a bit tricky but not impossible.

If you want to know when are ground hornets least active so you could remove the nest, the answer is at night. They have poor sight and usually don’t come out after dark.

Of course, wearing protective gear such as thick landscaping gloves is recommended because some hornets might get out of the nest and try to deal with the attacker, and that’s you. Seek immediate ground hornets sting treatment in case of an allergy.

How to Get Rid of Ground Hornets: 3 Methods

Soap and Water Mixture

If you ever had to deal with ground wasps, you already know that soap and water mixture is the easiest way to get rid of them. The same method can be applied to ground hornets.

First, you need to locate the nest and cover the entrance with a fabric. Secure it in place, so it doesn’t move. Then pour the mixture of soap and water into the hole.

Water should drown the hornets that are in the nest as the fabric prevents them from swarming out. Soap will immobilize their wings and make flying impossible. Leave the nest overnight with the covering and remove it in the morning.

A DIY Hornet Trap

You haven’t located the nest yet, but hornets are making you uncomfortable? A DIY trap might be the best solution. It is the most effective way of minimizing the number of hornets in your vicinity without applying insecticides.

Pet owners and people who don’t like using chemicals in their yard often choose this method.

You will need a soda bottle for this, the larger, the better. Cut it at the neck and put some olive oil or something sweet on the inside. Pour some water in as well. Turn the piece you have just cut off, remove the cap, and place it back into the bottle.

You could also make holes on the side if you plan to hang the trap.

Hornets will be attracted to whatever you choose to put inside. Don’t neglect the trap and empty it as often as possible. You could also add a couple of drops of soap if you are worried that ground hornets might not drown right away.

Insecticide Dust

Insecticide dust is the best way to get rid of ground hornets around plants. Contrary to popular belief, these chemicals will not affect flowers in your garden.

When you purchase the insecticide dust, make sure you get the additional equipment as well. It includes a duster with a long pole that will help you spray the nest without getting too close.

You also need to use insecticide dust at a specific time. Ground hornets should be in the nest when you spray, so do it during the night or before dawn. The dust should be applied directly into the opening.

After that, wait for two to three days before getting close to the nest to inspect the results.

The Prevention

Now that you have removed the colony from your garden, it might be the perfect time to learn how to prevent ground hornets from building nests again.

If you have used poison or any other chemical, hornets will know that returning to their previous nest is out of the question, especially if the queen is dead.

You can also make your yard unliveable for them. This is quite simple because hornets love dry and quiet places. So take good care of your lawn by mowing it regularly and keeping the ground moist. Focus on flowerbeds as well.

FAQs

Is it safe to mow the yard if I have ground hornets?

Ground hornets are not aggressive unless they sense danger. Coming super close to their nest with a lawnmower is considered a threat, and the chances are you will be attacked.

The entrance to the nest is small and almost invisible so you might bump into it by accident. Those of you who have noticed a lot of hornets flying around your garden lately should locate the nest first. Then mow the lawn and keep a safe distance from the hornets.

Are ground hornets aggressive?

Hornets are overly protective but will not sting a human without being provoked. Guarding the nest is their number one priority, and anyone who comes close to it could be attacked by these bees.

Each nest has a “team” that stays close to the entrance of the nest. Once they sense something is up, the guards will alert the rest of the colony. It is also important to mention that hornets can sting several times since their stinger doesn’t fall off.

Does killing a hornet attract more?

The short answer is yes. If you kill a hornet close to its nest, the chances are you will summon the entire colony to come after you. A dead hornet releases a pheromone that immediately attracts other nearby hornets.

Remember that a couple of stings may not be deadly, but if a colony attacks you, the aftermath could be horrible.

Where do hornets go when their nest is destroyed?

Do you want to learn how to destroy an in-ground hornets’ nest, but curious about where they will go afterward?

Some hornets will return to the site and hang around for a couple of days, trying to communicate with other surviving members of the colony.

They could try to rebuild it in another location if the queen is alive. If not, hornets will try to get accepted to another nest or die on their own.

What smells do hornets hate?

Both wasps and hornets are repulsed by the smell of peppermint. You can keep them away from your garden by planting some peppermint in the flowerbeds.

Optionally, use peppermint oil and spray your yard now and then. It is completely natural and pet-safe.

They are also not fond of wormwood, citronella, eucalyptus, and spearmint.

Summary

Learning how to kill ground hornets can come in handy if you want to spend a lot of time in your yard without constantly thinking you might get stung. Ground hornets are not solitary bees, and they create large colonies.

There are several methods you could use against them, and some require things you already have in the household, such as water and soap.

If you want to know what kills ground hornets most effectively, the answer would be insecticide dust because it is a type of poison. It works quickly and can destroy an entire colony without putting you and your family at risk.

But whatever option you choose, make sure you are well protected when you go out there to deal with ground hornets.

The problem is, we’re not alone in enjoying this climate, as unsightly, unwanted visitors start to return in an attempt to ruin everything.

I am, of course, talking about weeds.

And if your property is on the larger side, then they can be even more of a nuisance to eradicate.

So, in a series of articles dedicated to destroying problematic vegetation, let’s first take a look at the best weed killers for large areas.

A buyer’s guide with helpful tips and tricks will follow.

Don’t let weeds ruin your summer – reclaim your garden now!

10 Best Weed Killers for Large Areas 2026

Spectracide Weed Stop Concentrate for Lawns

Homedepot.com

Let’s begin with this weed stop concentrated formula from Spectracide.

For use with your garden hose attachment, it will cover up to 5,000 square feet and won’t harm your lawn if used as directed. No mixing is required in this ready-to-use applicator bottle, and it will kill over 470 different weeds with results in as little as five hours.

The formula is rainproof three hours after application, and it’s especially effective on crabgrass if used at the first sign of trouble. A contact, post-emergent herbicide with 2, 4-D, dimethylamine salt as its active ingredient, this will kill to the roots of all those pesky lawn invaders.

Pros

Cons

Preen Extended Control Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

Our second entry belongs to 13.75 lbs of Extended Control Weed Preventer from the household name Preen, a company that has been manufacturing lawn care products since the 1940s.

This particular product is a pre-emergent weed preventer, which is specially formulated to stop the little devils before they become a nuisance. Just one application is guaranteed to block weeds for up to six months and is potent on 125 varieties of unwanted, broadleaf and grassy weeds.

It comes in granule form and is easily spread where required around your yard or garden with the applicator scoop provided, then simply water the area to activate. If you’re looking to murder Bermuda grass, try these other effective weed killers to do that job.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Concentrate 365 Vegetation Killer

Check availability, reviews and price

Amazon.com

Walmart.com

This is the first of our entries from weed killer experts Roundup, who certainly seem to be experiencing mixed-fortunes lately.

Their products continue to be highly successful at the jobs they’re purchased to do, but there’s a lot of furor around their active ingredient – glyphosate – which might not be available in certain areas depending on current legislation.

Love it or hate it, there’s no denying its potency. This version is their Max Control, 365 Vegetation Killer – which does exactly that, in concentrate form. It kills weeds and creates an invisible barrier in the soil, keeping your garden clear for up to 12 months.

This particular version is for driveways, patios, and along fence lines. For more similar products, check out this article on the best weedkillers for driveways.

Pros

Cons

Compare-N-Save Grass and Weed Killer

Homedepot.com

While Roundup might be the household name, they’re not the only manufacturer to use glyphosate in their products. This is a 2.5-gallon formula from Compare-N-Save, which is effectively the same stuff for a cheaper price for the quantity.

This contact herbicide can kill over 175 types of weeds and grasses and can make up to 210 gallons of spray solution when correctly mixed with water, which will cover a very generous 63,900 square feet.

Certainly, for the price, this is one of the best weed killers for large yards out there, and I mean really large yards.

You’ll see results in two to four days, it’s fully rainproof in two hours, and you can use it anywhere except lawns and vegetable gardens – or where you want desirable plants to thrive because this will kill anything.

Pros

Cons

Scotts Turf Builder Crabgrass Preventer

Homedepot.com

Let’s change direction a little now with a lawn-safe weed-killer that’s specially formulated to attack that unsightly invasive species – crabgrass. Plague of many-a-lawn, this nuisance weed can be a headache to get rid of.

Enter lawn care experts Scotts, with this turf building product that stops crabgrass in its tracks, simultaneously encouraging a healthy, green lawn in the spring. It will also keep other grassy and broadleaf weeds at bay, like chickweed and poa annua, and protect your patch all season with its pre-emergent formula.

And the turf builder continues to feed the lawn through winter (also ideal to use in the fall) so you can expect a fast green-up the following year.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Prodiamine 65 WDG Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Check availability, reviews and price

Amazon.com

Walmart.com

Next up we have this pre-emergent herbicide from Quali-Pro, their Prodiamine 65 WDG product. Get unwanted weeds and grasses under control before they even raise their ugly heads, with a large, five-pound bottle of liquid death.

Specifically formulated for the control of weeds in established turf grasses, nurseries, around trees and shrubs, and lawns, this is a professional-grade weed preventer (not killer) that will get the job done against a variety of nuisance weeds, and can be applied in either spring or fall for quality results.

Most effective against crabgrass, this is an excellent alternative to the Scotts Turf Builder – if you’re looking for something a little more potent.

Pros

Cons

Green Gobbler 20% Horticultural Vinegar Weed Killer

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Here we take a breather from the more toxic weed killers for large areas, with this giant five-gallon pail of one of my personal favorite products – the Green Gobbler.

Rather than use potentially carcinogenic chemicals, these guys instead opt to use an organic solution, made from a 20% vinegar formula that is four times stronger than the stuff you’d put on your salads.

Having been made from ethanol distilled from corn grain, it’s safe to use anywhere around your home and garden. It’s a non-selective weed-killer, which means you only apply it to unwanted vegetation, such is its ability to kill a variety of different floras on contact.

Best of all, it’s pet and human safe (applied as directed), so you can use it with peace of mind if you have four and/or little legs running around.

Pros

Cons

Monterey Remuda Concentrated Herbicide

Homedepot.com

Here we have another herbicide with a high concentration of glyphosate at 41%. I’ve added this into the review because it offers excellent coverage, with one pint of the concentrated formula providing 320 gallons of product that will cover 320,000 square feet.

For use against weeds in non-planted areas, it’s most effective around trees, shrubs, and flowerbeds, in temperatures of 70 degrees and above. This systemic herbicide will kill vegetation right to the root and is intended as a post-emergent solution against already existing weeds.

Check out this article for more ways to rid your property of nettles.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate

This Roundup super concentrate is regarded as one of the best all-round weed killers on the market – particularly for widespread nuisance vegetation over larger areas.

Best for use in tank sprayers, you can cover a lot of ground all over your yard or garden, from patios and walkways to flowerbeds, along fences and foundations, gravel areas, and for garden plot preparation and lawn replacement.

The 50% glyphosate active ingredient is merciless when it comes to killing anything on contact, and you’ll have wilting, yellowing weeds within two to four days. The product is absorbed through the leaves and travels all the way to the root for total annihilation.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate + Weed Preventer

Check availability, reviews and price

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Homedepot.com

This total vegetation control is exactly that – a product that will attack and kill anything that grows, and keep you weed-free for up to one year.

Another product with a high glyphosate concentration (love it or hate it – it certainly works), this can treat an area of 43,243 square feet, making it an ideal solution for controlling weeds in large areas. As directed, you only apply to areas where no plant life is required – because it will destroy anything green.

Best used in a tank sprayer to cover more ground, the solution is easy to use and mix with water for effective weed killing and preventing results. Used by the professionals, this is easily one of the best and most effective weed killers available today.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Weed Killer for Large Areas

Below, you’ll find an informative buyer’s guide to help you choose the right product for you and your property.

Size of Area/Quantity

First, you’ll want to find out just how much area you need to cover, and then you can ascertain the quantity of the product you require. If you’re reading this page at all, it’s likely you need something that will cover larger spaces.

This is where concentrated weed killer products are king. Simply mix with the right amount of water for weed control over thousands of square feet.

Each weed killer is different though – so be sure to read the directions thoroughly in order to create the perfect concoction.

This might take some trial and error, too – as many users report that the given mixing instructions aren’t always the best depending on site and situation.

Be ready to adapt and create the right water to product ratio that will work for you.

Type of Area

When faced with so many options of weed killers, it might be overwhelming at first when it comes to choosing the right one.

But if you take a deep breath, and stop to check each product, you’ll discover that they all have different uses – and can be used in different areas.

So, as well as ascertaining just how large your weed-killing area needs to be, you also need to pay attention to the type.

Do you need to kill weeds on your lawn, among flower beds, around trees and shrubs, through the decking, along fences, in vegetable patches, on patios, driveways, and walkways…?

The list of places where weeds can spring up is seemingly endless, so too the list of products that will kill them.

Make sure you select the right weed-killer for the type of area you’re going to cover – it’s not one-size-fits-all, and using the wrong formula in the wrong area could have seriously negative results.

Emergence

Herbicides are available in a variety of forms and can be applied at three different times in the life-cycle of weeds and plant life.

Choosing the correct type will make your life much easier and give you the results you’re looking for.

Persistence and Selectivity

How long do you want the herbicide to keep working on your property, and what type of vegetation do you want it to attack?

A weed killer that keeps plants away for a long period of time is great if you want an area of your garden completely devoid of life – but useless if you want to cultivate desirable plants or vegetables.

Likewise, using a fast-acting weed killer that doesn’t last long in the soil will be ineffective at keeping weeds at bay through the season.

You should also consider if the herbicide is selective or non-selective.

Selective herbicides are designed to specifically destroy certain types of plant life, whereas non-selective will kill just about anything.

Active Ingredients

There are many compounds, formulas, and mixes that will attack and kill plant life. Some of them are also dangerous to humans and animals, others less so.

Keeping that in mind, it’s worth considering the main (active) ingredient in a weed killer – especially if you’re conscientious of where you’re going to be using it, and whether you have children or pets.

Glyphosate in particular has attracted a lot of media attention in recent years and is banned in some states and many countries around the world.

A broad-spectrum systemic herbicide and crop desiccant, it’s highly potent and effective at eliminating weeds, but the jury is out on how dangerous it is to humans.

That’s just one, high-profile example, but you should always take the time to consider what is in any weed killer you choose to purchase.

Application Method

Another often confusing factor about herbicides is just how they are applied. They come in a variety of forms and formulas, and the application instructions regularly lead people to scratch their heads.

Herbicides can be scattered on the ground in granule form, or they can be water-soluble granules and dissolved to make a potent concoction. They can be applied neatly in a spray bottle, or they can be diluted and dispensed from a tank, or attached to a hose and distributed that way.

The latter two application methods are more common for larger areas.

Make sure you understand how your chosen product is dispensed before purchasing – and that you have the necessary equipment to use it. Tank sprayers and granule spreaders are sold separately – and a good one can be expensive.

Check out the video below for advice on how to use a tank sprayer.

Brand Names

Do they matter? Some say yes, but when it comes to herbicides, it’s a case of six of one, half a dozen of the other that a brand-name product will perform any better than a budget version that has exactly the same ingredients.

Roundup is perhaps the most famous weed killer on the market, but you’ll find it’s not always the best, particularly if you want to stay away from harsh chemicals.

There are many more options out there, some branded, some not, all claiming to be effective at the job they’ve been designed to do.

Do your research, check reviews for similar weed-killer environments to yours, and go with your gut.

And if you’re still in doubt, try a few options and see which one works best for you.

Keep in mind that for larger areas, you might want to be looking at some of the best commercial weed killers, that will certainly do the job.

It’s definitely good to learn more about the available options as there are so many types of weed killers available on market.

Cost

When choosing the best weed killer for large overgrown areas, it’s important to take into consideration the cost of the product.

This is where you need to weigh up the value for money when it comes to quantity and longevity, and you’ll need to do a little math to figure out the best product to go for.

It’s best to strike a nice, cost-effective balance between how much you’re initially paying, the area it will cover, and how long it will last.

Summary

If you’re in any way unfamiliar with what’s available, the world of weed killing can be a daunting and complex environment.

That’s why taking a bit of time to examine each product can really help you focus on finding the best weed killer for large areas, and I hope this article has helped in some small way.

Personally, I prefer to stay away from the harsher chemicals, but I realize that might not always be possible – especially if you’ve got a lot of land and simply want to destroy everything as fast as possible.

To that end, I think the RM43 is hard to beat.

Let me know which weed killer you would choose and why.

Until next time, happy weed murdering to you all.

That’s why botanical science boffins created products that do exactly that – and if applied correctly, can keep weeds at bay for up to a year.

Pre-emergent weed killers are designed to stop unwanted vegetation before it has a chance to germinate, so it’s possible that you won’t even see weeds rearing their ugly heads for the season.

Because prevention is much better than cure.

Read on to discover the best pre-emergent weed killers and find the one that’s right for you. A full buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow.

Let’s nip those weeds in the bud.

The 11 Best Pre-Emergent Weed Killers in 2026

Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer

For the very best in lawn care, you can do a lot worse than Scotts, a household name when it comes to building turf like a putting green. This is their crabgrass and grassy weed preventer, a granular product that you apply over your lawn using a spreader.

It can be applied in the spring to prevent crabgrass and other problem weeds for the season, and it can also be applied in the fall to keep winter weeds at bay.

It’s not affected by weather after application, and a 10 lbs bag will treat an area of up to 5000 square feet. This is probably the best pre-emergent weed killer for Bermuda grass as it won’t harm it if you’re cultivating a Bermuda grass lawn.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Landscape Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

As well as making some of the best post-emergent herbicides, the most recognizable weedkiller brand also manufactures a line of weed preventers. This also comes in granular form, but this time designed to be spread around annuals, established flower beds, and around trees and shrubs.

It creates a protective barrier in the soil, so you will be weed-free for up to six months, and you only need to apply it once per year before unwanted foliage has a chance to grow.

Simply apply using the easy-applicator, mulch, and then water to activate to prevent over 40 types of grassy and broadleaf weeds.

Pros

Cons

Preen Garden Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

When it comes to pre-emergent weed killers, Preen products were never going to be far away – and now we have two in a row. First up is their standard weed preventer, a 16 lbs tub of granules that comes with a scoop spreader.

Distribute around bedding areas and then water to activate, and keep your garden weed-free for up to three months.

Safe to use in proximity to over 200 species of flowers, vegetables, trees, and shrubs, you’ll have peace of mind applying this even near your edibles. Best of all, it can be applied at any time throughout the season – just so long as you’ve cleared the area of existing weeds beforehand.

Pros

Cons

Preen Granular Garden Weed Preventer

Homedepot.com

This next Preen entry has all the benefits of the previous product, but this time with the addition of plant food.

As such, it’s the best pre-emergent weed killer for flower beds, as the balanced fertilizer is designed to promote blooms, increase yields for vegetables, and create strong and healthy root systems.

Again, perfectly safe for use around 200 established flowers, vegetables, trees, and shrubs, one application will feed your plants and prevent weeds for up to three months. The 16 lbs tub with applicator scoop covers 2,560 square feet, and it can be used throughout the season for effective results.

Pros

Cons

The Andersons Granular Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Made with .48% of the active ingredient prodiamine, this is a professional turf barricade from the Andersons that is designed to prevent summer annuals from appearing in your prized lawn. This includes crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail.

Most effective when applied in spring and prior to soil temperatures reaching 55 degrees, the DG pro formulation allows for more particles per square inch of the chemical, which significantly improves coverage and leads to better control of the weeds.

One of the best pre-emergent weed killers for lawns there is. This is a commercial-grade product for use around the home that won’t let you down.

Pros

Cons

Monterey LG 5130 Weed Impede Herbicide

Up next is Monterey’s Weed Impede herbicide, the first pre-emergent product in our review that comes in liquid form.

It’s a surface-applied herbicide used for the control of many annual kinds of grass and broadleaf weeds in ornamental plantings, rock gardens, bulbs, and ground covers.

Just one gallon can treat between 40 and 80 thousand square feet. Best applied with a pump-sprayer and mixed with the right amount of water, this will keep just about anything unwanted from sprouting up wherever it’s applied.

It also contains an orange dye so you can see exactly where you’ve treated – which is a bonus not to be underestimated, and highly useful for improving your accuracy.

Pros

Cons

Concern Weed Prevention Plus

Homedepot.com

Concern’s Weed Prevention Plus is an all-natural pre-emergent weed preventer that is safe for use around people and pets, so ideal if you have furry friends or little feet running around.

It prevents weeds while fertilizing your lawn, and one bag can cover up to 1,500 square feet.

Designed to be especially effective against crabgrass and dandelions (the banes of good lawn care), it also adds a lawn food for a healthy turf you can be proud of.

The active ingredient is natural corn gluten, meaning you can avoid those harsher chemicals with this product if you prefer.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

You might be wondering what RM43 is doing on this review of pre-emergent weed killers, and that’s because it works as a weed preventer as well as a spot treatment for existing growth. ANY growth – including murdering nettles.

After application, this will keep any area vegetation-free for up to one year, as well as destroying existing weeds in the process. As such, bear in mind it will kill anything green that it comes into contact with, so care should be taken around your desirable blooms.

Still, there’s not much out there that’s as potent or effective for keeping an area barren of plant life should you so choose. One gallon can treat up to 17,297 square feet, so you have a professional herbicide that is ideal if you need to control larger areas.

Pros

Cons

Tenacity Turf Herbicide

Like the RM43, Tenacity is a pre and post-emergent herbicide – which is why it’s justified its inclusion here. However, that is where the similarities end, as this is a selective herbicide that is safe for use on your turf lawns for getting rid of nuisance weeds only.

Very cost-effective, it’s used for residual control of undesirable plants in turf grasses, and will keep over 46 different broadleaf and grassy weeds away, with an active ingredient that is actually a naturally occurring compound.

Allow your new grass to flourish as Tenacity prevents invasive weeds from choking out your desirable lawn. And check out this article if you prefer to rid your lawn of weeds without harsh chemicals.

Pros

Cons

Quali-Pro Pre-Emergent Herbicide

This is a professional-grade, pre-emergent formula that contains a very high concentration of prodiamine at 65%.

Effective when used around nurseries, landscaping, turf lawns, and trees and shrubs, it’s this kind of product that the pros use when maintaining sports fields such as golf courses and putting greens.

It can be applied in both spring and fall for season-long control and inhibition of crabgrass and broadleaf weeds, and a little goes a very long way with this five-pound bottle.

Best used in a tank sprayer for covering larger areas, Quali-Pro have developed a genuinely effective pre-emergent herbicide with this formula.

Pros

Cons

Dimension 2EW Dithiopyr Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Our final entry in this review of the best pre-emergent herbicides is this Dimension 2EW product with the active ingredient dithiopyr – a root growth inhibitor.

This specialty, professional-grade herbicide provides pre-emergent and early post-emergent control of crabgrass, as well as 45 other nuisance weedy grasses and broadleafs.

In order to achieve post-emergent control, you should be looking at using two pints of the product per acre. Easily mixed in spray tanks, it’s also compatible with other specialty herbicides for maximum effectiveness and control of a wider range of weeds and is residual in the soil for around four months.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Pre-Emergent Weed Killer

In this next section, you’ll find further information and advice for choosing the right pre-emergent weed killer for you.

How Pre-Emergent Herbicides Work

Pre-emergent herbicides are most often used well before plant life has germinated – either in early spring or late fall.

They work by inhibiting a key enzyme that provides an invisible barrier through which seed growth cannot pass. Effectively, a pre-emergent herbicide neutralizes a plant before it has the chance to germinate.

Some products will also contain a fertilizer to feed desirable plants or an established turfgrass at the same time.

Any seedlings that have big ideas for seeing the light of day will be terminated by this invisible film in the soil, created when a pre-emergent herbicide has been applied correctly and watered to activate.

Quantity/Coverage

How much pre-emergent herbicide you need will obviously be determined by how much land you need to cover.

As mentioned, a pre-emergent herbicide is specifically designed for distribution over a wide area, so getting the coverage you need isn’t that challenging.

Again, just make sure you’re referring to the instructions when mixing liquid formulas – as achieving the right balance of water (and surfactant – if required) can often be the trickiest part of the process.

Liquid or Granules?

Pre-emergent herbicides are available in granular or liquid form. So it comes down to choosing one of these types of weed killers.

Granules are much easier to use and usually come with a scoop of some kind to assist with their application.

However, using a dedicated spreader is better if you have a larger area to cover – but they’re always sold separately. If you don’t have access to such a device, I would recommend picking one up second-hand to save a bit of cash.

While granular pre-emergent herbicides are usually cheaper than liquid versions, you’ll get much better coverage with a liquid.

And when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent – accurate and extensive distribution is key – which is where liquid herbicides excel.

Still, it can be a bit of a challenge to get mixing quantities right – especially if you’re using a surfactant (an additional liquid product that breaks surface tension and improves herbicide absorbency).

And liquids need the right kind of applicator to do the job, usually in the form of a tank or backpack sprayer. This I would recommend purchasing brand new – so you know that no other chemical has been used in it and you’re not risking any kind of cross-contamination.

Once both versions have been applied, you need to add water to activate. This is where liquid has another advantage, in that it will take less hosing or rainfall for the herbicide to begin working its magic in the soil.

Whichever version you choose, diligently read and understand the instructions before use.

Selectivity/Targeted Weeds

When choosing any kind of weed killer or preventer, you need to be aware of its selectivity.

Herbicides can be selective, or non-selective. Selective means that they will only treat certain types of plant life. Non-selective means they will attack anything.

When it comes to pre-emergent herbicides, it’s important to learn what the chemical is going to kill, and what it’s going to leave alone – if anything.

This is particularly true if you want to apply a herbicide to your lawn. You need to make sure it’s not going to harm existing, desirable plants and grasses.

This is where having an understanding of weed types is highly beneficial. Check out the video below for an excellent guide.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Pre-Emergent Herbicides

The Pros

Naturally, as with all such chemicals, a pre-emergent herbicide comes with its pros and cons. Let’s start with the good news.

Pre-emergents stop weeds in their tracks, meaning that with proper application and at the right time, you might not see a single weed in a treated area for the length of the season.

And speaking of time, a good pre-emergent will be effective for up to one year, and no less than three months – depending on quality.

Finally, the coverage square footage of a pre-emergent herbicide is a very attractive proposition for anyone with larger yards and gardens. Applying this solution is usually much easier and faster than a post-emergent weed killer.

Once again – prevention is much better than cure. For more information, have a look at this article on when to apply weed control.

The Cons

Now for the bad news. Post-emergent herbicides are useless on already established weeds and grasses – and you’d be surprised at just how many people get this wrong and complain when it has had no effect.

(There are one or two products that incorporate both types of herbicide, however, and will kill existing weeds and then keep the treated area plant-free. Still, standard pre-emergent weed killers do not kill visible weeds.)

Also, the timing and temperature of applying pre-emergent needs to be just-so – especially for the effective treatment of crabgrass.

If you’re too late or too early in spring or fall then you won’t have effective results. Whichever product you decide to try, make sure you adhere to the directions completely.

Last but certainly not least, pre-emergent weed killers are rarely pet-friendly. It’s highly advisable you keep children and animals inside – at least until the product has been watered into the soil, and has had a chance to dry.

FAQs

What month do you put down pre-emergent?

Always refer to a particular product’s directions (as they can vary from brand to brand) for the best month to apply the formula. By and large, you’ll want to be putting down a pre-emergent in the early spring or fall.

Certain pre-emergents can be applied throughout the season, but for the most part, the barrier should be down before weeds have a chance to grow – so get in early.

It will also depend on what weed you want to target, so again, make sure you know thy enemy before charging into battle.

Choosing the right product and using it at the right time is essential for your success.

What is the best time to apply a pre-emergent weed killer?

Again, it depends on the type of weed you’re looking to control, and the pre-emergent you’re using. Always read the label.

Check out the excellent video below for advice on using a pre-emergent in the spring – which is when most gardeners will be keen to block forthcoming weeds.

What is the best soil temperature for applying a pre-emergent weed killer?

For best results, you should be applying a pre-emergent herbicide BEFORE the soil has been at a temperature of 55 degrees or above for between 36 and 72 hours.

55 degrees is like DEFCON 1. When the soil temperature goes above that number for a sustained period of time, that’s when seeds begin to germinate, weeds start to become a problem, and then you’re at war.

You can use a soil thermometer, or you can contact your local county extension service for agricultural advice and soil readings in your area.

Alternatively, use this excellent soil temperature map and locate your area.

However, you’ll find that the soil will be around this temperature from March to April for the spring application of pre-emergents.

How long does pre-emergent last?

The residual effects of a pre-emergent herbicide will depend on the particular product you’re purchasing.

Generally speaking, you’ll find they last between 3-12 months. Check the label or specifications for further details before adding to the cart.

Can you put down too much pre-emergent?

Yes – and it can be a seriously grave error if you do with potentially disastrous results.

ALWAYS make sure you adhere to the guidelines on the product label – and like any drug or medicine you might take – never exceed the stated dose.

Also, be aware that the misuse of chemicals in and around your home and property can land you in serious trouble with the law. So, be sure to read that label thoroughly.

How soon can I seed after pre-emergent?

Depending on the pre-emergent (some products you won’t be able to seed at all) you should be waiting between 7-10 days before attempting any new work.

Can I put down pre-emergent and fertilizer at the same time?

Yes, and there are products that contain both – particularly in the Preen and Scotts ranges.

Just make sure you water them both down into the soil well.

Should you mow before pre-emergent?

You don’t have to, but it is recommended that your lawn isn’t a jungle when you apply a pre-emergent herbicide. You want the product to be watered into the soil, and that will be easier to accomplish if the grass isn’t too high.

Don’t mow your lawn for a few days after application though, so you can allow the stuff to take hold.

Will rain wash away pre-emergent?

No – in fact, quite the opposite.

Unlike a post-emergent weed killer, you want it to rain after you apply a pre-emergent, because it will save you from having to water the area you’ve treated, and activate the herbicide defense barrier in the soil.

Can you put pre-emergent on wet grass?

No. It won’t be as effective.

Apply the herbicide before it’s due to rain on dry grass and soil, and then water it yourself if no rain is forecast.

Should you water after using a pre-emergent?

Yes! That is how you allow the chemical to activate and get to work protecting your soil and preventing weeds from germinating.

It’s best to add around 1/4-inch of water to the treated area once you’ve applied the herbicide.

Does pre-emergent kill existing weeds?

It depends on the product. Certain pre-emergent weed preventers also incorporate post-emergent weed killers – so they’ll kill anything they come into contact with and keep that area totally plant free for the foreseeable future.

However, by and large, pre-emergent herbicides are useless for killing already established weeds – particularly if they’re already visible through the soil or concrete.

Check out this article for the best weed killers for driveways if you need a post-emergent product that will destroy unwanted plant life where it shouldn’t be growing in the first place.

Summary

The world of herbicides is a complex one, and finding the right product and figuring out the right time for application can be a real headache.

I hope this article and review has helped you choose the best pre-emergent weed killer for your garden project, and that you have much success in keeping weeds at bay as a result.

For my lawn, I would choose the Tenacity product, and possibly the Preen Weed Preventer with plant food for around desirable foliage in landscape beds.

Let me know which pre-emergent you would choose and why.

If you are dealing with more than just weeds, but there are also stumps to kill, take a look at the best stump killers that we recommend.

Happy weeding!

Just when you thought you have gotten rid of them, there they are again springing back up and bringing terror to your lawn.

And that’s not all…

It’s so hard to get rid of them because there are a lot of different kinds that vary treatment.

One of the most common ones is the dollar weed., and nope, it’s not as glamorous as having real dollars. They are pesky little weeds that can take over your lawn!

I know you don’t want that to happen, so we’re here to help you get rid of Dollar weeds that are growing on your lawn. We whipped up a complete guide so that you can identify, remove, and prevent dollar weeds from your lawn.

Let’s begin!

What is Dollar Weed?

Dollar weed, also known as pennywort, is a member of the parsley family which originated from Asia. They have rounded, bright green leaves with wavy edges and has white flowers that bloom from July up to August.

The name Dollar weed was based on its shape. Its glossy and round leaves resemble a silver dollar. They grow in moist and shady portions of the lawn, garden, or even unplanted areas.

This weed can float even on the water so they are very difficult to deal with when left uncontrolled.

They thrive in warm climates so if you’re from the southern part of the US and other temperate regions, beware!

How to Identify a Dollar Weed?

If you spot weeds in your lawn, you don’t wanna act on it just yet.

Why?

Because you want to make sure that you use the treatment or method for that specific type of weed. Some can require different treatment so you have to identify the species first.

So you already know about Dollar weeds being common to warmer regions and have a silver dollar-like appearance, but here are additional indicators to identify Dollar weeds:

Got it?

These descriptions can help you make sure that you are dealing with the right Dollar weeds. But if you’re still unsure and skeptical, you can avail yourself professional help in identifying and actually exterminating those pesky weeds.

Why are There Dollar Weeds in My Lawn?

If you found out there are dollar weeds growing in your lawn, the main culprit is too much water. And this can be caused by a number of things like over-watering, too much rain, the poor-draining quality of the soil, or the layer of grass being thin.

From these situations, dollar weeds can expect to grow rapidly and take over your lawn if you don’t act fast. This grass spreads via seeds or from the underground roots.

This means that if you want to remove them, you have to be precise in killing them all to prevent them from coming back.

Is Dollar Weed an Enemy or a Friend?

Simply put…

Dollar weeds are one of your lawn’s mortal enemies.

Just like any other weed that has ever existed, they do not pose a benefit to gardens and lawns, aside from their ability to produce oxygen. But then again, we’re talking about yards here!

If you want to make your lawn look the best it can be, with bright and healthy grass that is distributed evenly, you have to get rid of those dollar weeds!

They are very damaging to your lawn because they compete with the water and nutrients that are supposed to be for your intended plants. They decrease the yield of your plants and impede the growth of grasses.

May it is a garden of any sort of plants or a field of beautiful grass, Dollar weeds can take over space if left uncontrolled.

You don’t want that, do you?

What Kills Dollar Weeds?

Technically, weeds can be pulled by hand. You can get rid of Dollar weeds through that method, but you have to be extra precise when doing it. You have to pull it all out especially the roots because it will keep growing back.

You can do this for a small number of dollar weeds growing in your lawn but if you are dealing with a large area, this is very tedious, time-consuming, and may not even be possible executing perfectly.

During this moment, you can rely on various remedies to get rid of your dollar weeds. Not only they are easier but more efficient in killing and even preventing the weeds from coming back.

Chemical Treatment

Chemical applications are the most efficient way of dealing with weeds because they are scientifically designed for that purpose.

There are a lot of weed killers available on the market today. They are mostly grass and pet safe, so you don’t have to worry about it affecting things around you.

For only a few dollar weeds or a small patch of them, you can spot treat them using ready-to-use dollar weed killers like Roundup® For Lawns Southern Formula Ready-To-Use. These are effective in killing to the roots, so the weeds won’t grow back.

For bigger areas crawling with Dollar weeds, you can use Weed & Feed products or Herbicides.

Weed and Feed products are used to treat larger dollar weed problems. These products kill weeds, including dollar weeds of course, yet providing the lawn with nutrients, hence the feeding part. You can see these in the market are specifically labeled as weed-and-feed.

Examples of these that kill Dollar weeds are Scotts Turf Builder Bonus S Southern Weed & Feed and Scotts Turf Builder Southern Triple Action. Just read and follow the instructions written and you’re good to go!

Herbicides, on the other hand, are more specific in killing the weeds and they are widely used for this purpose.

To kill Dollar weeds fast and easily, you can use herbicides such as MSM Turf herbicide or Fahrenheit herbicide. MSM turf herbicide, when applied to your lawn, will only do its job to the weeds and will not affect your grass. It can be applied through a hand pump, hose, or backpack sprayer and can cover up to one acre of the lawn.

Meanwhile, Fahrenheit herbicide is a composition of water-soluble granules also used to kill Dollar weeds. It can also be used in large volume and area treatment, and it offers a wider variety in terms of application.

Other herbicides that are proven to get rid of Dollar weeds are Atrizine, Image (Imazaquin), 2,4-D, Blade, Manor, and Monument.

They are all safe for use in various types of grasses like Zoysia, St. Augustine, Bermuda, and Centipede grasses.

It’s only a question of choosing one of the many weed killer types available.

Here’s a simple procedure on how you can apply chemical herbicides to get rid of Dollar weeds.

Step #1: Measure the Treatment Area

Calculate the square footage where you will apply the herbicides. You can do this by multiplying the length and width of the designated space. This can help you determine the right amount of product that you should apply to the lawn.

Step #2: Mix the Herbicide Solution

Herbicides that are available in the market have their recommended mixing proportion. For example, MSM Turf Herbicide recommends .125 ounces mixed with 1 ounce of water per acre of land that will be treated. Given that you have a 1,000 square foot area, you would mix 1 oz. of MSM turf herbicide with 32 ounces of water in a hose-end sprayer.

For average applications, a 1-gallon pump would be great to easily apply the treatment.

Step #3: Apply Solution to Dollar weeds

After filling up your sprayer, you can not apply the solution to the area you want to treat. People use fan nozzles to get even coverage to the area.

Don’t water the lawn for a day to let the solution soak in and be absorbed by the weeds. You should see the changes after 14 days and in some cases, you should reapply after 3 weeks.

Things to remember:

Organic Treatment

We know that some people are very conscious of what they apply to their gardens and lawns and that’s not bad at all.

Though chemical applications are proven effective for the job, they are composed of inorganic chemicals that contribute to land and water pollution. Thus, there is a great reason for people who want natural options.

And we have just the tips for you!

These alternatives can help you get rid of Dollar weeds on your lawn without leaving traces of the chemicals. Just take note that these may or may not be effective for everyone but these are worth trying before resorting to chemicals.

There are a lot of ways to get rid of weeds without chemicals. You can always try them and see what works for you.

Can Dollar Weeds Grow Back?

Let’s say you’ve managed to get rid of Dollar weeds this time, should you still worry about them?

Well, if you’re confident that you got them all, then you shouldn’t worry about it in the near future. However, it doesn’t mean that you will not deal with them forever.

So, we also have tips for you to prevent Dollar weeds from growing back. Here are some points to remember to protect your turf from Dollar weeds.

Feed Your Lawn Properly

Feeding your lawn with the right fertilizers can make the grass grow thick and strong. This can help overtake weeds if there are a few that are starting to spring up. Feed your lawns 2 to 4 times a year to provide the right amount of nutrients.

Water Less

If Dollar weeds are your main concern, then lessening your irrigation can help you get rid of them. Since Dollar weeds are water-loving plants, you should never overwater the lawn.

Thus, you should limit your lawn’s irrigation to only an inch of water per week. This allows the soil to dry out and prevents Dollar weeds from growing and spreading further.

You can also improve the drainage of your soil by aerating it. Aerating the soil lessens water retention.

Mow High

Mowing at the right height for your specific grass helps its leaves to grow thicker and its root system to grow deeper.

To get rid of Dollar weeds in St. Augustine grass or Floratam grass, we would advise mowing the grass to about 3 to 4 inches. Mow Zoysia and Centipede grass to 2 to 3 inches while 1.5 to 2 inches for Bermuda grass.

FAQs

Why do I have so much dollar on my lawn?

One main reason as to why you have Dollar weeds on your lawn is overwatering and saturation of the soil.

Dollar weeds love wet environments and they spread easily in this condition

Will Dollar weeds take over grass?

If left uncontrolled, Dollar weeds can take over your grass.

Should I ask for professional help?

For a small Dollar weed problem, spot treatment can be easily done on your own.

But if you are dealing with a large area, you can opt to call for professional help to make sure that the lawn is treated in the best way.

Summary

Now you learned how to get rid of Dollar weeds. You can now identify them and plan out the best solution for your weed problem.

Share us your Dollar weed stories! Good luck and Happy Gardening.

And even if you’ve managed to put down one of these excellent pre-emergent herbicides, they can still slip through the cracks and spoil your landscaping.

Be it in flower beds, vegetable patches, on patios and driveways, along fences or across your lawn – life finds a way.

So, I’ve put together a review of the best post-emergent herbicides – for treating weeds and unwanted vegetation that has already taken hold and is visible through the soil.

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow to help you choose the right product for your needs – and the needs of your garden.

There’s no place left to hide for weeds.

The 12 Best Post-Emergent Herbicides 2026

BioAdvanced Weed Control for Lawn

Homedepot.com

To start us off we have a combination of a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. This hose applied product from BioAdvanced can cover up to 7,500 square feet, and when used as directed it will kill existing lawn weeds while not harming your lawn.

Once laid down, it will then protect the surface and prevent weeds from springing back up for six months. The 2-in-1 formula is easy to use and delivers season-long weed control that you can apply anytime from spring through to the fall, and it kills over 200 listed weeds, including dandelion and clover.

For the price, it’s one of the best post-emergent weed killers for lawns there is.

Pros

Cons

Ortho Groundclear Weed and Grass Killer

Homedepot.com

This Groundclear product from Ortho is an OMRI listed herbicide for organic use and safe to use all-around your property. Upon spot treatment with the weed wand included (which is a highly accurate method of application), it gets to work immediately for visible results inside 15 minutes.

Use on patios, landscape beds, walkways, vegetable gardens and around trees and shrubs to keep your existing weed problems in check, and you can apply it at any time of year when weeds are actively growing.

Check this article for more great weed killers for driveways – but you can use this just about anywhere.

Pros

Cons

Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed

Scotts need little introduction when it comes to lawn care, and this is their popular and well-known weed and feed product. It works as a pre and post-emergent herbicide, with a low percentage of 2,4-D that selectively attacks dandelions, clover, and other nuisance weeds.

With a weed-grip technology that combats the plants you can and can’t see, it’s a highly useful lawn feeder and protector that’s best applied in spring to thicken your desirable turf and crowd out the unwanted vegetation.

Probably the best granular post-emergent weed killer for lawns available.

Pros

Cons

Compare-N-Save Concentrate Grass & Weed Killer

The first (and certainly not the last) of our post-emergent weed killers to contain glyphosate, this Compare N Save offering certainly will save you a packet compared to the big-name brands.

One gallon of this stuff makes up to 85 gallons of lethal liquid death, and the 41% concentration of its active ingredient will be merciless to anything green in your garden.

That means you can cover over 25,000 square feet and see visible results between two and four days. There’s no residual activity, so ornamental treated areas can be replanted as soon as a day after spraying (but fruit and vegetable plots vary).

Pros

Cons

Southern Ag CROSSBOW32 Weed & Brush Killer

Many landscaping professionals, farmers, or anyone who wishes to get rid of unwanted trees and brush swear by Southern Ag’s Crossbow product.

For use on rangeland, grass pastures, and non-crop areas, the 34.4% 2,4-D formula with added triclopyr leaves grasses unaffected but is deadly to the likes of blackberry vines, poison ivy, kudzu, creeping charlie and multiflora rose – as well as offering the ability to kill most annual and perennial broadleaf weeds.

Offering excellent coverage, with a variety of application methods, and good value for money, you can see why it’s the go-to nuisance tree and brush exterminator for the pros. One of the best post-emergent selective herbicides there is.

Pros

Cons

Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer

Following right on the footsteps of their Crossbow product, Southern Ag offers this 2,4-D weed killer – a highly potent option for killing broadleaf weeds – without damaging existing lawn turf.

Providing selective weed control for use in and around pastures, rangeland, cemeteries, parks, and golf courses – this is a professional product that you can use around your home (just be very careful in its application and avoid drift to desirable plants).

A full list of weeds controlled is included on the label, and the economical use means that you get a lot of bang for your buck with the quantity. Try one of these lawn aerators before use for the best performance and results.

Pros

Cons

Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed & Grass Killer

I always try to include an organic, pet-safe weed killer if it’s compatible with the review, and the Green Gobbler is my go-to recommendation here.

Made with 20% industrial-strength vinegar, it’s four times stronger than traditional table vinegar, extracted from ethanol distilled from corn grain. With no glyphosate insight, you can kill weeds and grass all around your garden, as well as for commercial, industrial, and agricultural use.

No mixing is required and it’s ready right out of the container, and OMRI listed as safe around organics. And take a look at this review for more excellent pet-safe weed killers if you prefer not to use harsh chemicals in your garden.

Pros

Cons

Spectracide Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate

Homedepot.com

A return to more familiar weed killers now with this concentrated product from Spectracide. Able to eliminate poison ivy, clover, dandelion, and other listed weeds, it’s a potent formula that’s safe for use on patios, walkways, and around flower beds.

A non-selective herbicide, you can cover up to 6000 square feet when mixed with water and applied with a tank sprayer. Spectracide will kill to the root and you will see visible results within three hours, with the ability to replant in the treated area as early as the following day. And check out this article for more of the best weed killers for use around flower beds.

Pros

Cons

RM43 Glyphosate Plus Weed Preventer

RM43 is a professional, popular, pre and post-emergent herbicide. If you want to clear an area of any plant life – and for it to stay clear – then this is the product for you.

One gallon will treat up to 17,297 square feet, and it will keep any treated area weed and plant-free for up to one year. Designed for use around fence rows, gravel paths, sidewalks, driveways, parking areas, and around farm buildings and barns, this is an agricultural-grade product that’s available for your use around your home.

The best post-emergent herbicide for crabgrass (or any grass for that matter) this will kill everything – so take great care when dealing out the death.

Pros

Cons

PBI Gordon – Ornamec Grass Herbicide

Now, this was a late entry into the post-emergent herbicide review, as I stumbled upon it researching something that would kill Bermuda grass. This certainly does that, designed for the control of unwanted grasses in groundcovers, trees, and shrubs.

Nearly 500 species of plants can be brought to heel by using this “over-the-top” product from PBI Gordon.

A selective, post-emergent herbicide, it will control annual grasses such as panicum, goosegrass, crabgrass, foxtail, sandbur, and barnyard grass, as well as the tricky Bermuda grass that some people love and others will hate – depending on your location.

Apply anywhere grass weeds are crowding out your desirable plants.

Pros

Cons

Roundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate

Our final Roundup product is the penultimate entry in this review and is one of the most potent weed killers in their range.

The purple-capped super concentrate contains 50.2% glyphosate, which is one of the highest you can buy and is marketed as the best Roundup product for widespread weed problems.  If you have a lot of stubborn plants to kill over a large area, then the buck stops here.

Designed for use in tank sprayers, this will rain liquid death down on anything green it touches, so be sure you know what you’re doing and where you’re applying it. You’ll see visible results within 48 hours.

Pros

Cons

Monterey Remuda Concentrated Herbicide

Homedepot.com

Last but not least is this Monterey Remuda concentrated herbicide, also with a high concentration of glyphosate at 41%. It also contains a surfactant, which is a bonus for improving coverage and absorption by the plants it is targeted to treat.

For use in unplanted areas and around trees, shrubs, and flower beds, one pint of this stuff offers an impressive 320 gallons of potent herbicide that will cover a whopping 320,000 square feet.

Most effective when used in temperatures of 70 degrees and above, this is a commercial-grade weed killer for anyone deadly serious about plant death. A compression sprayer is recommended.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Post-Emergent Herbicide

Below you’ll find plenty of tips and advice to assist you in choosing the right post-emergent herbicide for you.

How Post-Emergent Herbicides Work

The clue is in the name for post-emergent herbicides, and they’re designed to work after a plant has established itself and broken through the soil.

Post-emergent herbicides work best when the unwanted vegetation is actually growing.

How it does this depends on the individual product and the active ingredient it contains. It’s not one size fits all, and there is a huge variety of herbicides that attack weeds in different ways.

Post-emergents will contain a number of different chemicals or ingredients that are designed to inhibit plants and exterminate them. For more information, read this excellent, in-depth article on how herbicides work.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Post-Emergent Herbicides

The pros and cons of post-emergent herbicides are well documented, but let’s just briefly touch on them here for simplicity’s sake.

Their greatest asset is that they are very effective at what they do – particularly when it comes to the more potent weed-killing chemicals – such as glyphosate.

Certain products will burn down a problem weed in a matter of hours, and in a couple of days, it will be stone dead. For others, it might take a few weeks – but you should still get good results eventually.

Aside from this, they are very easy to use, with a variety of application methods available depending on where, what, and how much you’re treating.

Unfortunately, that’s where the advantages stop. Post-emergent herbicides are, with some exceptions, dangerous, toxic chemicals.

These formulas can cause a detrimental impact on the environment, not to mention to the people who use them, their children, and pets.

And unintentional spread can be difficult to control – especially when treating larger areas with a tank or backpack sprayer. Even the slightest breeze or misdirected application can cause a non-selective herbicide to come into contact with desirable vegetables, plants, and blooms.

Often a necessary evil, weed killers should be handled with great caution – and by people who know exactly what they’re doing.

But have a look at this article for how to get rid of weeds in a lawn without using chemicals. I always try to encourage more natural ways whenever possible.

Quantity/Coverage

As with all weed killers, the amount you purchase will depend on how much land you need to cover, or how large your weed problem is.

If you’re treating one or two weeds, you can use a spot treatment with a trigger or weed wand. This herbicide will likely come in a ready-to-use bottle.

For larger areas, a tank/compression sprayer or hose applicator might be called for. Often, a herbicide that is distributed in this manner will come as a concentrate – and require diluting with water.

A surfactant might be required – which is an additional liquid that is added to help break the surface tension between the weed killer and the target. Surfactants help the herbicide go further and be absorbed faster.

Either way, try to purchase quantities that you know you’re going to use. Herbicides have a shelf-life – and will become ineffective and wasteful if surplus to requirements.

Application Method

As previously mentioned, post-emergent herbicides can be dispensed in a variety of ways, and they come in the form of either liquid or granules.

Granular post-emergent weed killers are applied either with a dedicated spreader or by simply shaking the bag or box of product where you require.

The best liquid post-emergent weed killers are applied either with a trigger gun, a weed wand, a hose applicator, or a tank/backpack sprayer.

The method you choose will depend on the area you’re covering, the results you’re trying to achieve, and the type of weeds you’re attempting to treat.

Selectivity/Targeted Weeds

Like pre-emergent weed killers, their post-emergent counterparts can either be selective or non-selective when it comes to the plants they are designed to target.

Selective weed killers will only attack certain plant life. They’re best used in lawn care where you don’t want a herbicide to damage your existing turf grasses, but you do need it to clear undesirable weeds.

Non-selective weed killers will go after just about anything that’s green. They’re best used when you want an area completely devoid of any kind of vegetation.

Before making your purchase, you should know the types of weeds your preferred product is or is not going to kill. All too often mistakes are made and the wrong kind of herbicide is purchased for the wrong job. And keep in mind there are many weed killer types to choose from so it’s good to know more about them.

When in doubt, check the label. All herbicides should list the plants that they will attack, so you know if you’re purchasing the right product for your needs.

And I’ve yet to see a better video than the one below to help you with weed identification.

Rainproofing and Persistence

Apart from the timing of application, perhaps the most notable difference between a pre and post-emergent herbicide is to do with how long it lasts in the soil.

It’s not always the case, but generally, a pre-emergent herbicide will last several weeks/months longer than a post-emergent.

While there are post-emergent herbicides that have lengthy residual times in the soil, for the most part, they don’t hang around. This is so you can be free to plant desirable foliage and flowers within a few days of application.

Aside from that, pre-emergent herbicides require water to be activated, whereas post-emergent herbicides will not be effective if they’re washed off their target plants.

There’s also a risk that surface run-off will carry potentially dangerous chemicals into water courses and unwanted areas.

Post-emergent weed killers, therefore, come with guidelines on when the formula will be rainproof, which could be anywhere between ten minutes to over two hours.

Either way, it’s a good idea not to apply a post-emergent herbicide if rain is forecast – just to be on the safe side.

Additionally, both pre and post-emergent weed killers need to be fully dry before they stand any chance of being pet and human friendly, so keep animals and children away until that happens.

Active Ingredients

It’s important to know and understand the active ingredient of a weed killer. This will basically inform you what is actually doing the killing – and how that killing will take place.

Different chemicals, compounds, and formulas will attack weed and plant life in different ways. Some might be root inhibitors, others might prevent the protection of chlorophyll, or affect cell membrane production.

Understand the active ingredient will also help you understand which plants the herbicide will or will not attack.

From a safety perspective, some active ingredients are more harmful to us humans than others – so care must be taken with their use.

FAQs

Is Roundup a post-emergent?

It depends on which Roundup product you’re talking about as their range is extensive and it can be a challenge to choose the right one.

While most Roundup products are post-emergent herbicides, the brand also manufactures some pre-emergent weed preventers, too.

Check to see when the product is applied for confirmation.

When should I apply post-emergent?

Again, it depends on the particular product.

Some post-emergent herbicides are best applied at a certain time of year, or in certain temperatures and soil conditions.

But they will nearly all be most effective when applied in early spring when the weed is young and growing.

Having said that, a post-emergent herbicide is designed to attack and kill weeds that have already grown and are established – so feel free to unleash the liquid death whenever you see weeds protruding from the soil.

What is the strongest post-emergent weed killer?

There are a few contenders for the crown of strongest post-emergent weed killer, but it’s really all speculative and can depend on where and what you’re treating.

Anything with a high concentration of the active ingredient is going to be pretty deadly – toxic or otherwise.

The Southern Ag, RM43, Roundup, Monterey, and Spectracide brands all have products that are extremely potent – but so do the lesser-known versions.

Head on over to this article on the best commercial weed killers if you’d like to know who the pros use, and then you can make your own mind up which is the strongest.

Sometimes, trial and error is the only way to know for sure.

Does post-emergent kill grass?

It certainly will if it’s non-selective.

Selective post-emergent herbicides are available that only attack certain weeds, thus keeping your prized lawn intact while literally weeding out the invaders.

However, the vast majority of post-emergent weed killers are non-selective and are designed to simply destroy everything green that they touch.

Double-check your labels – and always dispense with great care, regardless of what category a particular herbicide falls under.

Can I apply pre-emergent and post-emergent at the same time?

You can – there’re no restrictions placed on the timing of application between a pre or post-emergent herbicide.

However, pre-emergents are most effective when laid in the early spring, fall, or early winter, whereas post-emergents thrive from late spring to mid-fall.

Not to mention the fact that you could well be trying to use a bunch of different chemicals that can treat some weeds but not others – which would prove a waste of time and money in the long run.

Certain products are useful as both pre and post-emergent herbicides, so when treating an area you not only kill existing weeds but it will remain clear of vegetation for a given period of time after application.

I would suggest trying them before attempting to concoct your own, crazy mix.

Furthermore, depending on the chemicals involved, there are likely application limits set by law, and mixing high concentrations of pre and post-emergent weed killers might be in breach of that – depending on your state’s regulations.

For more information, have a root around on the herbicides page of the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

In short, it’s best to err on the side of caution and only use one product at a time – and when it is recommended to do so.

Again, always refer to the labels – because they are literally the law.

What is the difference between pre-emergent and post-emergent?

A pre-emergent herbicide is designed to stop weeds from germinating. It is usually applied before the temperature of the soil reaches 55 degrees in spring, but it can also be used in the fall and early winter to prevent certain grasses or weeds from arriving the following year.

A post-emergent herbicide is for when the weeds have already broken through the soil, they’re visible, invasive, and growing. Post-emergent herbicides can be applied throughout the season to spot or blanket treat nuisance weeds and vegetation.

What herbicide will kill everything?

If you absolutely, positively, want to kill everything green, then choose a non-selective herbicide with a high concentration of its active ingredient.

This is most likely to be glyphosate – the world’s most popular weed killer.

It does not discriminate –  a high percentage of this stuff will pretty much destroy any plant life in your yard or garden.

However, it’s at your own risk. Glyphosate products have been on the receiving end of some seriously negative press over the past few years.

Summary

Herbicides are a controversial topic, but many gardeners the world over still swear by them for keeping their lawns and landscapes weed-free.

While prevention is better than cure (and good garden practices can help) the best post-emergent herbicides are often a necessary evil.

I would always choose the more organic, natural option if I had to use one – in this case, the Green Gobbler product.

But to each their own – let me know which product you would choose and why. Whatever you decide, always make sure to apply it safely, with care, and in accordance with the instructions.

Best of luck and happy weeding!

You’ve heard about overseeding but you’re skeptical. And that’s fair enough!

No one wants to waste a bunch of seed, time and effort if it might not work, right?

I’m going to tell you a bit more about overseeding a lawn with weeds, whether it works and how to do it if you decide that it’s right for you.

Let’s get into it!

Key Points

What is Overseeding?

Overseeding is the practice of adding seed to an already established lawn, but one that has a few too many bare patches and/or weeds present.

Usually, you will also add a layer of compost and fertilizer at the same time to give the seeds the best possible shot.

Does Overseeding a Weedy Lawn Work?

Yes!

Overseeding a lawn with weeds does work, but there are some caveats to this. Some lawns will respond better to overseeding than others, and there are right and wrong ways to go about overseeding a weedy lawn.

It helps to understand a little about why lawns get weedy in the first place and how overseeding helps.

All plants, including both grass and weed species, need space and light to survive. A healthy lawn will be so lush and dense with the grass species that you want, that there won’t be much opportunity for weeds to arrive and establish themselves.

But, as soon as your lawn gets a little overgrown and/or bald spots appear, any weeds that might be present get an opportunity to go to seed, and any seeds arriving on the wind have an easier time finding space to get established.

What does this mean for us?

So, with this in mind, you might be wondering, will overseeding kill weeds?

Overseeding a weedy lawn doesn’t directly kill the weeds that are already present. But, if done at the right time of year, the growth of enough healthy grass will outcompete the weeds by starving them of light, space and water, and prevent more weeds from growing.

Exceptions to the Rule

While re-seeding a moderately weedy lawn with bare patches works really well most of the time, there are some weeds that are so stubborn and relentless that outcompeting probably won’t work.

A good example is crabgrass. You may have to apply some other management tactics to control your crabgrass if you have a lot of it. Luckily, there are natural ways to manage crabgrass that are a lot safer, and sometimes more effective, than relying on herbicides.

Other weeds that may require some specific attention are dollar weed and Bermuda grass (in some parts of the world, Bermuda grass is the lawn species of choice, but if its growing where you don’t want it to then it becomes a weed).

When Should I Overseed my Lawn?

The timing of overseeding can be the deciding factor in how successful it is.

Both grass and weed species have a period of the year where they are dormant and periods where they are growing.

The trick is to time your overseeding project for when grass growth is at its peak and most weed species are dormant. This may not always be completely possible as there will be some overlap, but some times of the year are definitely more optimum than others.

For most regions, late summer or early spring are the best times. However, if you have applied any non-organic fertilizers or selective herbicides designed to prevent seed germination, you’ll need to wait a while until those chemicals are no longer present.

Tips for Successfully Overseeding Your Lawn

Carry Out Some Prep Work

Rather than just jumping in and overseeding straight away. Taking a few steps beforehand can make your overseeding much more successful.

Hand pulling any really large and obvious weeds is probably a no-brainer but worth mentioning all the same. You want to create conditions that will maximize the chances of the grass seed being more successful than the weeds. So, give it a fighting chance by removing what weeds you can first.

Giving your lawn a good watering (enough to reach 6 or so inches down into the soil) a couple of days before overseeding is also good practice. If you water too much immediately after overseeding you may just drown the seeds.

Mowing your lawn really short before overseeding also gives the new seeds a good chance of success without being shaded out by existing grass. But be sure to remove the grass clippings. While leaving a fine sprinkling of grass clippings is a good practice most of the time (read this article to find out why), you don’t want any grass clippings on your lawn before overseeding.

Removing thatch is important for similar reasons. New seeds won’t have much of a chance if they have to fight through thatch first. If you’re new to dethatching, I have a how-to guide here.

Choose the Right Grass Seed

Did you know that there are many different species of grass that can make up a lawn seed mix? The species you choose will play a large role in how successful your overseeding project is.

You can also exercise some preferences depending on whether you want thin or thick blades of grass, hard-wearing for lots of foot traffic or less hard-wearing but more aesthetically pleasing, and low maintenance that doesn’t need mowing as often, or faster-growing that does require regular mowing.

In saying that, if you already have some grass seed left over, then by all means use it. There is no sense in letting it go to waste. Chances are it will still be fine to use as well. If you’re not sure, I’ve explained how to work out if grass seed is bad in this article.

How to Overseed

Last but not least, let’s explore how to actually reseed a lawn with weeds.

Assuming you’ve carried out the preparatory steps above, the main steps to overseeding are spreading compost and fertilizer, spreading the seeds, and then watering.

Applying around ½ ich of compost over your lawn will provide an easy growing medium for your seed to germinate in. There’s a chance you may have some success without doing this but your germination rate will be much lower.

Applying your own homemade compost is an excellent choice here as you can save money and you know exactly what you’re putting on your garden which is a must if you have kids and pets.

It’s also helpful to fertilize in order to make sure that all of the nutrients required for healthy grass growth are present. Organic fertilizers are superior in the long run when it comes to soil health but a one-off application of synthetic fertilizer when you overseed is not going to do any major harm.

If you’d like to learn more about the world of fertilizer,  I have some helpful articles on when and how often to fertilize, the difference between liquid and granular fertilizer, and the shelf life of different kinds of fertilizer.

The next step is to sprinkle a fine layer of seeds over your lawn. You want around 15-20 seeds per square inch and this can be made easier with the right equipment. A handheld broadcast spreader is best for regular size lawns but if you have a big area to reseed, you might choose a tow behind spreader instead.

After applying the seed, rake it into the compost a little bit and ensure its evenly spread.

Finally, give your thirsty lawn a drink with a sprinkler (or some of your own harvested rainwater if you’ve got your collection tanks set up), and then wait for the magic!

Summary

Hopefully, you’re feeling pretty knowledgeable when it comes to the ins and outs of overseeding lawn with weeds.

It’s actually not super complicated and it’s definitely the best solution to managing a weedy lawn. Simply get the timing right and with the right seed, your lawn should be well on its way to being lush and weed-free.

Have you tried overseeding a weedy lawn? What did you do and did it work? I’d love to hear how it went for you!

Also, if you are interested in taking the best care of your lawn, take a look at our take on the different types of lawn movers, so you can take the next step in improving your lawn after the weeds are taken care of.

This includes our children – whom we do occasionally have some moderate control over.

However, when it comes to our beloved family pets, they can often wander into areas of the garden unsupervised and eat or lick anything they like the look of until their heart’s content.

Which is potentially deadly if you’ve just covered the place with a toxic chemical.

With that in mind, I’ve put together a review of the best pet safe weed killers on the market, to keep your four-legged-friends out of harm’s way.

A buyer’s guide and FAQ section will follow the reviews, so read on to discover the best non-toxic weed killing options for your property.

11 Best Pet-Friendly Weed Killers 2026

EcoSMART Weed and Grass Killer

First up we have this weed and grass killer in a ready-to-spray bottle from EcoSmart. The safe pesticide company has developed a 100% organic formula so you have peace of mind when using it around your children and pets.

Use it all over the home, around fences, on patios, walkways, and driveways, and around your trees and shrubs.

Made from potent plant oils, there’s no overbearing odor when using the product, it will not contaminate groundwater, and it’s designed to kill all types of nuisance weeds and grass with fast-acting results you’ll notice in hours.

Pros

Cons

Ortho Groundclear Weed & Grass Killer

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While it’s marketed as a pet-friendly weed killer, caution is still advised for using this Groundclear product. Its active ingredient is ammonium nonanoate, which is a non-systemic herbicide (the effects are localized and it can easily be washed off).

It is approved by the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) for organic gardening, and it will work on all types of weeds and grass so you see results inside 15 minutes.

Apply it directly to the weeds with the easy-to-use applicator, for use on hardscapes, landscape beds, and around vegetable gardens. You’ll also find it available in concentrate form.

Pros

Cons

OrganicMatters Natural Weed Killer Spray

Available in multiple quantities, this Eco and earth-friendly weed killer doesn’t contain any harsh chemicals – like the glyphosate formulas that have been making news for all the wrong reasons.

Instead, the concentrated formula kills over 250 species of weed so you can see results in less than 24 hours.

It dries fast after application, so you don’t need to be concerned about surface run-off should the heavens open, and it gets to work quickly anywhere that weeds are not wanted.

Safe to use all over the garden, it won’t harm your pets or desired wildlife visitors to your yard such as bees and butterflies. A heavy-duty trigger spray is included in certain quantities.

Pros

Cons

Just For Pets Pet-Safe Weed Killer Spray

It’s always nice when a product marketed as a pet-safe weed killer actually has pictures of pets on the label – and when your brand name happens to be “Just for Pets” it gives you a big clue.

Clearly made by animal lovers, this is an organic compound that is safe to apply all over the garden, in a ready-to-use spray with no harsh poisons or chemicals. You’ll see results in less than 24 hours, from all-natural, non-toxic ingredients that will dry quickly and get to work fast.

Be aware that it’s a non-selective weed killer (as most of these products are) so it will kill any grass it comes into contact with.

As a nice bonus, they donate to nationwide animal shelters with a percentage of each sale (at least, at the moment of writing this article). Animal lovers indeed.

Pros

Cons

Natural Armor Weed & Grass Killer

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Another weed-killing product that offers plenty of quantity options, if you’ve got a lot of area to cover then this could well be the choice for you.

This particular size is a 128-ounce gallon with an improved, heavy-duty spray gun included.

Natural Armor claims that their product will show better results than the other leading brands in this class inside 24 hours, and it’s garnered high enough praise to think they might be right.

100% organic with no harsh chemicals to file lawsuits over, it’s safe and easy to use all-around your home and garden and kills over 250 species of weeds and grass.

Use on calm sunny days (over 65 degrees Fahrenheit) for the best results.

Pros

Cons

Doctor Kirchner Natural Weed & Grass Killer

This pet-friendly weed killer from Doctor Kirchner requires no mixing and no safety gear, it’s completely pesticide-free and kills right down to the root.

Made without using harsh chemicals, its potent formula is a combination of ocean saltwater, commercial strength food-grade vinegar, and soap. The non-selective product will wipe out pretty much all plant life (apart from brush) so use it carefully around desired blooms and grass.

Safe for everyone and everything apart from the unwanted plants around your property, this can be used with confidence.

Pros

Cons

Espoma Organic Weed Preventer CGP25

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As a nice alternative to all the vinegar-based weed killers, this product is made from corn gluten meal and is more of a weed preventer coupled with a lawn feeder.

Marketed as safe for children and pets right on the box cover, it’s an all-natural feed that will stop dandelions, crabgrass and other weeds in their tracks.

Give your lawn a treat to ensure it develops a deep, green color while preventing weeds by inhibiting root development in seedlings. The easy-to-apply product comes in a granule formula, so you simply sprinkle it over the top of your lawn, and apply it twice a year in the spring and fall for best results.

Your furry friends can play in your garden immediately after application, and it’s probably the best organic pet safe lawn weed killer available (or weed preventer – at least).

Pros

Cons

Preen Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer

Preen is a familiar lawn care specialist that has been around for over 50 years, and this is one of many anti-weed products they have in their range. It’s a weed preventer designed for use in vegetable gardens, using all-natural ingredients to inhibit the growth of unwanted plants.

It prevents annual weeds in vegetable gardens, flower beds, around trees, shrubs, and ground covers for 4-6 weeks, and is totally kid and pet safe.

The preventer comes in granule form and can be used right up until you harvest your crops with a high level of protein byproduct that prevents seedling growth.

Pros

Cons

BioSafe Systems 7601-1 Weed Control Concentrate

Approved by OMRI and the EPA for safe, organic use, this weed control formula from BioSafe Systems is a powerful yet kind concoction that can be re-seeded or planted over in just four days.

It will kill weeds and grasses inside two hours, and won’t migrate through the soil to ruin nearby plants, flowers, or crops.

It comes in a concentrated formula (hence the price) and two fluid ounces will give you a generous coverage of 200 square feet. The herbicidal soap mix gets to work immediately upon application and destroys the cells of unwanted plants while being nonvolatile and water-soluble.

Pros

Cons

Red Dragon VT 2 1/2-30 C Propane Vapor Torch Kit

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As this is an article about weed killers, I thought I’d include a couple of other options of the non-compound/liquid variety.

This is a propane vapor torch for use with a tank of gas to eradicate weeds directly by burning them away. No chemicals of any kind are required, and you can spot target each unwanted boom until it’s burnt to a crisp.

It comes with a 10 ft U.L. listed LP gas hose, adjustable needle valve, and a spark lighter. Of course, you still need to purchase the propane tank, which should be 20 lbs or higher.

The kit has received CSA certification for use in the U.S. and Canada and is pet safe (providing you don’t point it at your pet that is).

Pros

Cons

Fiskars 3 Claw Garden Weeder

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While there are myriads of weed-removal tools on the market, I’ve gone for this one from trusted Finnish brand, Fiskars – just to get you started and offer another pet-friendly weed killing solution.

It’s perfect for anyone who wants to remove weeds the old-fashioned way, yet takes a lot of the back-breaking work out of the job. The long handle prevents sore knees and having to stoop and bend, while the three serrated, stainless-steel claws firmly grab weeds and roots for permanent removal.

Simply position over the target weed, stamp it down on the foot platform, and then let the claws do the work as you pull the weed right out by the root.

There’s a good possibility that this will make weeding your garden fun.

Pros

Cons

How to Choose the Best Pet-Friendly Weed Killer

Below you’ll find some tips and advice for selecting the right weed killer for your needs – and for the needs of your pet. An FAQ section will follow in case anything has been missed.

Check the Ingredients

If you’re looking for a pet-safe weed killer, then the first thing you need to be mindful of is the ingredients.

Toxic and harmful herbicides contain chemicals and compounds like glyphosate, alachlor, and dacthal to name but three.

While they might be the best weed killers for Bermuda grass and other intrusive and aggressive plants, some of these chemicals are either banned or in the process of being banned in many parts of the world.

So, if you want to make sure the product you’re buying is pet and human safe – do your homework on the ingredients – and not just the active ingredients, as some can hide a nasty little surprise if you’re not careful.

Look for products that are 100% organic and contain natural ingredients.

The downside is that they are generally not as effective as stronger chemicals, but they’re considerably less deadly to anyone and anything that might come into contact with them.

Approved to be Pet Safe

Apart from doing your own homework when it comes to seeking out pet-safe formulas, probably the surest way to know is to check if a product has actually been approved to be pet-friendly.

If it’s been passed by OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) or the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), there’s a very good chance it’s safe to use if you have furry friends around.

Although it seems obvious, if a product has a picture of a cat or dog on the label, then that’s usually a sure sign it’s a pet-safe formula.

And any product that’s been given the nod from a veterinarian or other pet-friendly association is also a safe bet for use around your family – furry or otherwise.

When in doubt, you could always ask your vet for additional advice.

Is it Necessary?

Before purchasing any kind of weed killer, ask yourself if it’s really necessary. Is the problem so bad that it can’t be resolved with a bit of elbow grease?

There are plenty of other options for weed removal (I’ve included a couple of examples in the review) that are much more pet-friendly than even pet-friendly weed killing products.

It’s highly advisable to avoid any kind of herbicide use if you can help it, as a few weeds here and there isn’t going to do much harm – but a bad chemical reaction certainly might.

A Word of Caution

On that note, it’s worth mentioning that although these products are advertised as pet safe and pet-friendly – that’s only if they’re used correctly and as advised.

These products can still be an irritant if they get on skin or fur, into the eyes, or somehow digested – like when Buddy enjoys eating the dandelions.

While they’re nowhere near as lethal as some chemicals, they can still cause a seriously upset stomach, so precautions need to be taken.

Always keep pets and children indoors while applying any kind of weed killer – and give the product time to dry and be absorbed before unleashing the little beasts. And your pets.

The same goes for other chemicals you might use, like stump killers, etc.

FAQs

What’s the best weed killer that’s safe for pets?

I’m afraid to answer that question it really is a case of trial and error.

To help you find the product that will give you the best results, I’ve put together this review.

However, in order to find which one really works for you and to answer this question, you might need to try a few formulas before settling on one that is successful.

Read the comments from people who have tried the product already and it will help you make your choice.

There’s no right or wrong answer here as what works for some people might not work for others.

What are the possible dangers to pets when using a weed killer?

Check out the excellent and informative video below to learn more about the dangers of using chemicals around our pets.

How do you apply a weed killer safely around your children or pets?

As I mentioned above, pet-friendly or pet safe weed killers are still harmful if used incorrectly and not according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

I would still take similar precautions you would for using chemical herbicides – just to be on the safe side.

Keep your pets and children indoors as you’re applying the formula, and leave it for at least an hour before allowing them out to play.

Make sure to wear long-sleeved clothing and pants, close-toed shoes and hand protection.

For this type of product, use a pair of some good quality landscaping gloves for the job.

Is spraying weed killer on the lawn harmful to children or pets who play on it?

It depends on the weed killer. If you’re spraying dangerously noxious chemicals, then it will most certainly be harmful to children and pets.

Is Roundup safe for pets?

No. Use with extreme caution. Remember, its active ingredient is currently in the process of getting banned in many places around the world.

What are some weed-killing alternatives that are safe for pets?

I included a couple of other options in the review for you to consider as alternatives to using any kind of liquid or granule formula.

Burning the weeds with a propane vapor torch will focus solely on the targeted weed, and you run no risk of pets getting sick even if they do eat or lick the end results.

You could always put together your own homemade weed killer using any number of recipes on the internet – but they can be hit-and-miss when it comes to success.

Perhaps the best pet-friendly weed killing alternative is to simply remove them by hand. Use some good, old-fashioned grafting and you won’t have to worry about anything hazardous being around your loved ones.

It’s also good for you from an exercise point of view.

How long after spraying herbicides is it safe for pets?

Even with pet-safe formulas, I would advise erring on the side of caution if you can and give it a window of 24 hours.

Summary

Our beloved four-legged-friends are worth so much more to us than the necessity to remove a few pesky weeds, so really consider them and the environment before opting for a chemical herbicide.

The best pet safe weed killer is just to do it by hand – but if you really have to, the products in this review are a great start – and certainly a better alternative to harsh, toxic chemicals.

Good luck in choosing the right one for you – let me know what works and what doesn’t.

Happy weed killing – and much love to all the pets out there!

But what if you don’t want it there? Is it possible to get rid of it naturally?

In this article, we’re going to look at all the pros and cons of having clover in your lawn and the natural ways to control its spread.

What is a Clover?

When we say ‘Clover’ we are not talking about a single species, but about an entire genus called Trifolium. It includes about 300 annual and perennial species.

In the broader classification, the genus Trifolium belongs to the pea family (Fabaceae). As we will discover shortly, that gives clover some superpowers.

Still, all of that doesn’t say much about the purpose of clover in our lawns, right?

Is Clover the Enemy of Lawn Maintenance?

Clover was a standard component of all lawns until relatively recently. In fact, due to its beneficial properties, clover was deliberately included lawn seed mixes.

Homeowners and green keepers didn’t consider clover a problem until the 1950s. So what changed?

After World War II, the same companies that had been developing chemical weapons, turned their attention to pesticides. The formulation of herbicides made it possible to cultivate monocultures.

Suddenly, clover was marketed as the enemy, along with dandelions, bindweed, and other broad-leaved flowering plants.

However, it was precisely the companies that created and sold pesticides and herbicides, that were on the front lines of the new war against clover. The trend for unsustainable monocultures in gardens and agriculture was created through clever marketing by agrochemical corporations.

So, to wrap up that slightly depressing spiel, clover is not an enemy of a healthy lawn. But there are some pros and cons to weigh up when deciding how much of it to include in your yard. Let’s look at them in more detail.

Should I Leave the Clover in My Lawn?

These days, as people become more aware of the environmental and health hazards of herbicides, it’s becoming more common to cultivate more natural, diverse, and sustainable lawns.

Keeping clover in your lawn is actually a significant step towards creating a more sustainable lawn, and could save you a lot of time and money in the long run.

Clover Enriches the Soil with Nitrogen

All clover varieties are legumes (pea family, remember?), which means that they are nitrogen-fixers – pulling nitrogen from the atmosphere and fixing it within their root system, with the help of some beneficial bacteria.

That means two things:

Perhaps there is a deeper reason why clover has been considered a lucky plant for so long!

Clover Provides Food for Bees and Butterflies

Clover species have very sweet, nectar-rich flowers that attract pollinators such as honey bees, bumblebees, butterflies, and hoverflies.

In times of great pollinator decline, this is a nice way to contribute to the fight for our planet’s health. However, it may have a downside (see our next section).

Clover Has a Soft Texture and is Drought Resistant

Unlike some weeds and grasses, clover has a very soft texture. You can walk on it barefoot with no discomfort.

And, when your cool season grasses are brown and crispy, the clover will still be green and soft, helping to green up your lawn in the heat of summer. It doesn’t demand watering in the same way that grass does.

Should I Get Rid of Clover in My Lawn?

Is it bad to have clover in a lawn?

Although you’ve just read the many positives, there are some drawbacks to having clover in your lawn.

Winter Dormancy

Clover dies down and enters dormancy as soon as the first frost appears at the beginning of wintertime. While it may appear to have died, as many weeds appear to die during winter, the perennial species have a root system waiting patiently underground for warmer temperatures.

Although perennial species will come back quickly in the spring, and the annuals will likely self-seed, your lawn may have some visible yellow or bald patches during the frosty season.

However, this does depend on the amount of clover in your lawn, what other grass species you have, and the severity of the winter. If the clover is well balanced with cool season grasses and you have periods of cold but not freezing weather, the cool season grasses will easily fill the gaps that clover leaves behind.

Furthermore, if you get a lot of snow, you won’t be bothered either way, since your lawn will have a white blanket over it anyway.

Patchiness and Clumps

Sometimes, clover tends to create patches and clumps, especially if the soil is very hard or there are other factors causing irregular growth.

Clover can work well as a component of your lawn when it is relatively evenly dispersed, but no one likes patchiness and clumps.

Foot Traffic Tolerance

Clover can tolerate some foot traffic, but it doesn’t deal well with frequent trampling.

If you don’t have a defined garden path, have kids who run around the lawn a lot, hold frequent parties and BBQs or use the lawn for sports, clover will probably suffer.

Deer Food

It is no secret that nutritious clover is attractive to deer. While seeing deer in your yard may bring you excitement and joy, it may also bring you some nibbled and uneven patches on the lawn.

Bees

If you are allergic to bee stings or have kids running around, you would probably want to avoid having a flowering clover on your lawn.

Bees are not aggressive when far away from their hive and certainly won’t chase you around the lawn, but you may accidentally step on one of them while they are harvesting nectar from the clover flower.

There is a fairly easy fix to this – simply mow the lawn with the catcher on to remove the flowers before letting the kids outside to play.

How do You Control Clover Naturally?

It is perfectly fine if you still don’t want clover on your lawn after weighing up the pros and cons.

However, before reaching for commercial herbicides, here are some things you can do to remove clover from your lawn naturally, without any health and environmental risks.

Add Nitrogen

The first line of defense against clover in your lawn is to fertilize it with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

As mentioned before, clover fixes nitrogen from the air but can’t stand additional nitrogen. That is why clover generally thrives in nitrogen-poor soils.

If you have just a minimal clover problem, regular fertilizing with organic slow-releasing fertilizers will probably do the trick.

For bigger and well-established clover patches, it is better to go for the regular quick-releasing fertilizer. It will get the nitrogen in quickly and have a better chance of destroying the clover.

The grass will get longer and thicker, while the clover will slowly but surely start to decline. In time, the grass will replace it completely.

Also, be aware that using slow-releasing fertilizer, especially organic ones, will give you better results and a healthier lawn in the long run.

Vinegar-Dish Soap Solution

You can easily make a non-selective herbicide consisting of vinegar and soap at home.

Here’s how:

The vinegar dries out the leaves, while dish soap serves to bind the acid to the leaf’s surface. In time, the plants will die off completely.

You will probably have to apply the solution over several weeks to eradicate the clover completely. Be careful to use the mix on the clover (or other weeds) only, as it will also damage other plants it reaches, including grass.

Cornmeal Gluten for Getting Rid of Clover

Cornmeal gluten is a by-product of wet corn milling. It was originally used to feed domestic animals such as cattle, poultry, fish, and is even incorporated into dog food.

However, cornmeal gluten is also well-known as a natural substitute for pre-emergent herbicides – those that target the weed seeds.

How Does Corn Gluten Work?

When you apply cornmeal gluten to your lawn, as it degrades, it releases compounds called dipeptides. These organic dipeptides cause seeds to dry out, preventing them from sprouting or developing normally.

This means that it will affect the weeds that are yet to sprout but won’t damage the already established grass. It will also affect the seeds of any established weeds, preventing them from reappearing the next year.

Cornmeal gluten is a natural clover killer but is also effective against the seeds of other well-known weeds such as crabgrass, chickweed, and dandelion. Additionally, it provides some nitrogen, which clover hates.

How to Apply Corn Gluten?

About 20 pounds of cornmeal gluten per 1000 square feet of lawn should do the trick. Spread it over the lawn, water generously, and allow it to dry. The amount will also deliver about 2 pounds of nitrogen.

You can purchase cornmeal gluten in garden centers.

Commercial Natural Herbicides

There are plenty of naturally-occurring compounds which act as herbicides and take away the need for synthetic chemical herbicides.

If you don’t want to make up a mixture yourself, there are plenty of natural alternatives being sold as ready-to-go products as well.

These products are often marketed as ‘pet-safe herbicides,’ as they are non-toxic. However, most of them are also non-selective, which means they kill or damage all plants. You will have to pay attention to spray only the target plants.

Covering Clover with Plastic Sheets

Covering clover (or other weeds) with a dark plastic sheet such as a garbage bag will deprive it of two key elements – sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, if it is in a sunny position, the plastic will sort of steam-cook the plants beneath it.

The method is practical only for larger, homogenous clover patches, as all plants will be killed, including the surrounding grass. However, you then have the option of re-seeding your lawn with a more appropriate grass seed mix that is better suited to your climate and water availability, and will be less likely to leave room for clover to return.

If you’re not sure which grass species to go for, have a read of this article.

Overseed

While we’re on the topic of re-seeding, you don’t necessarily have to remove weeds before adding more seed.

Overseeding a weedy lawn can be an effective way of restoring the balance between turf grass and herb species. This method likely won’t remove the clover in its entirety, but it will help to increase the ratio of grass to clover to one that ticks your boxes.

Read all about how and why to overseed a weedy lawn here.

Manual Removal

With all of the tools and chemicals on the market these days, anyone would think that manual labor in your garden is redundant and irrelevant.

However, manual removal has its place, even in modern gardening. In fact, manual removal is often the most effective and long-lasting solution to weedy problems.

Hand pulling is also still the most immediate and straightforward way to remove unwanted plants from your lawn or garden before they spread.

Some plants have deep, tough roots, which makes them very difficult to remove from the lawn by hand. Luckily, clover is not one of those plants.

It has a dense but shallow root system, making it relatively easy to remove. The biggest challenge is removing all parts of the plant, as any pieces left behind will regrow.

You have two options for removal – to attempt to remove just the plant, or to dig up the entire piece of turf and replace it with fresh topsoil and grass seed.

If you only have a small patch or two, then try removing just the plant first. If you have a larger area of clover, then digging it up, soil and all, and starting again will be more effective.

Mowing Practices

Like most weeds, clover can be controlled pretty effectively though mowing.

Mowing your lawn high will not do clover a favor.

It needs a lot of sunlight, and if the tall grass blades overshadow it, it will not be able to spread as efficiently.

If you’re interested in reading more about how to control weeds through mowing, read my article on whether mowing spreads weeds or not.

Keep the lawn in good condition!

Keeping the turf healthy and thick is still the best way to keep all the weeds out, including clover.

Make use of my lawn care calendar and stay on top of your lawn health with easy tips and tricks like watering in the right way, getting mowing height right for the different times of year, and leaving some grass clippings on the lawn for natural mulch (when the weeds aren’t in flower that is!).

Can Clover Replace Turf?

We’ve talked about how more people are actively encouraging a mix of clover and grasses in their lawns due to its beneficial properties. In fact, more and more lawn seed mixes are starting to include clover again which is excellent news.

But did you know that there is such thing as an entirely clover lawn?

Interest in clover lawns is increasing due to concerns for pollinator numbers, and as people recognize the unsustainable nature of monocultures like grass lawns.

Grass lawns require constant inputs of water, synthetic chemical fertilizers and herbicides, all of which are expensive and harmful for your pocket, the environment, and human health.

Grass lawns serve little to no purpose other than looking good to some people (many people are starting to prefer a more wild look than the carefully manicured strip of uniform green), and filling the pockets of agrochemical companies. (After all, the kids don’t care what they’re playing on!)

Grass lawns don’t support the local ecosystem or help the pollinator situation in any way, and keeping them green all year round is a huge waste of precious drinking water.

Clover lawns on the other hand, tick all of the environmental and sustainability boxes that grass lawns don’t.

They don’t require watering, or fertilizing. They don’t require any herbicides as clover usually outcompetes other weeds. And, crucially, they provide food for pollinators.

Clover lawns consist of low-growing species of clover such as the White (Dutch) clover or Micro Clover (the dwarf, low, scarcely-flowering version of Dutch clover). Micro clover doesn’t flower much, so it’s a way to surpass bees if they present a hazard for you.

If you want to read more about clover lawns and how to get started, I have an article dedicated to clover lawns.

But really, once you look outside the box of golf-course style grass, the sky is your limit when it comes to non-grass lawn options.

From living ground covers like moss or creeping thyme, to non-living options like paving slabs and gravel, there are many ways to make your yard more sustainable and lower maintenance at the same time.

Clover FAQs

Why do I have so much clover in my lawn?

The abundance of clover in your lawn can be a sign of nitrogen-depleted soil. Work on increasing the soil quality and adding nitrogen.

Will clover take over grass?

If your lawn is in bad shape, plus you have poor soil, clover can easily take over. However, if your lawn is in good condition, it is unlikely that clover will become a major issue.

On the other hand, clover will also out-compete less desirable weeds such as crabgrass, which is one reason that it was historically a default part of lawn seed mixes. Using similar combinations today can help you curb the spread of other weeds.

What will kill clover but not grass?

Of all the methods that I’ve mentioned in the article, the only ones that target clover specifically are treating with nitrogen fertilizer, the cornmeal gluten treatment to inhibit sprouting, and of course, manual removal. Also, there are commercial broadleaf herbicides.

Conclusion

As you see, clover has been cast out of lawns only recently. Until about 60 years ago, people saw it as a desirable and beneficial part of every living green carpet.

Recently, people have started paying attention to the positive properties of clover yet again, and it’s safe to say that clover is making a steady, creeping comeback!

However, there are still some good reasons to want to remove clover from your lawn. At the end of the day, the choice depends on your personal circumstances, needs, and desires.

I hope this article has covered all aspects of having clover in a lawn and provided you with the knowledge on how to get rid of clover in lawn naturally if you need to.

Do you keep clover in your lawn, or do your best to remove it? What is the most effective natural control method you’ve tried? Please share in the comments!

But there must be other ways of deterring mice aside from the classic mousetrap, right?

There are!

Using a combination of DIY mouse repellents is a fairly reliable way of making sure that you don’t develop a mouse problem in the future.

I’m going to list the options and then explain why you should use them in combination with some other tactics.

Key Points

Why Should I Consider DIY Mouse Repellent?

One mouse is cute, but two quickly becomes a crowd once they have ten babies a pop. And since one female can give birth up to ten times per year… that’s a lot of mice!

They make mess, they destroy things, they smell and they carry diseases. So rather than waiting until you have a problem, using DIY mouse repellents aims to prevent the problem in the first place.

The one caveat to using repellent is that it’s probably not going to be super helpful if you already have mice living in your house.

Once a mouse has decided that your home is a pretty sweet place to make its own home, it’s unlikely to be deterred by a repellent. You can try of course! But the aim of DIY mouse repellents is to prevent mice from being attracted to your home in the first place.

So if you’re wondering how to deter mice naturally, then DIY mouse repellents are a great option. But, you also need to take some other precautions:

How to Make DIY Mouse Repellant

Peppermint

The smell of peppermint is not pleasant for a mouse’s sensitive nose. The menthol component is thought to create a burning sensation which they will choose to avoid.

You have a few different options when it comes to peppermint. Having mint growing outside your house might help deter mice from investigating further. Inside the home, you can diffuse peppermint essential oil, soak cotton balls with it, or spray it in dilute form in places that might be attractive to a mouse.

Cloves, Pepper and Cayenne Pepper

Similar to peppermint, mice don’t like the smell of cloves, pepper or cayenne pepper and find them irritating. You can use clove essential oil in the same way as peppermint, or make little cheesecloth bags with dry spices inside.

Traditionally a Christmas decoration, pomanders make for a lovely smelling, natural air freshener all year round, and the clove smell will double as a mouse deterrent!

White Vinegar

White vinegar can be used in much the same way as peppermint oil. Simply spray vinegar in the offending areas, or soak cotton balls and place them strategically in places that might be popular to a mouse.

Used Cat Litter

Obviously this isn’t going to be a particularly pleasant object to have in full view of places that you frequent. But, mice have a keen sense of smell so you wouldn’t need to include much for them to take note of the warning.

Kitty litter that has been peed on is all you need, stay away from the faeces.

Put a small amount in an open container or a container with holes in the lid and place the container in a place the mice might naturally be attracted to, but out of the reach of children.

Other Smelly Things

It is said that mice also don’t like the smell of mothballs, onions or ammonia. However, most people also don’t like the smell of those things and I for one don’t want to be getting frequent whiffs of ammonia each time I walk past a certain part of my house.

Added to that, onion will eventually go moldy so you’d need to be remembering where you left it and replacing it before that happens.

In saying all that, there usually is a little truth to old wives’ tales and ultimately, your house – your choice. Little pots of ammonia might work well in a garden shed or barn where it wouldn’t be so offensive.

Steel Wool

Steel wool isn’t a deterrent per se, but it is one of the few things that mice can’t chew through. This makes it an excellent material to plug any holes you might find that would allow mice access to your walls or house in general.

Get a Cat!

If all else fails, get a cat. I’m not even joking. Mice will not be a problem if you have a hunter on the prowl. Some cats are better mousers than others, but even the presence of a cat should be enough to deter mice.

Having natural predators in residence is easily the most reliable tactic if you’re wondering how to get rid of mice in your yard naturally.

A Final Note on Traps

There are some articles online encouraging things like instant potato flakes and cocoa powder mixed with plaster of paris as a means of mouse control.

While these might seem like benign ingredients, they are not deterrents but cruel and inhumane ways of killing mice, who ingest them and then die slowly and painfully.

If you’re wondering how to get rid of mice naturally, I’m assuming by natural you mean without chemicals, you are better off using a classic mechanical mouse trap that will kill the mouse instantly. This is far kinder.

What About Other Pests?

You’ve got the low down on mice, but what about other animals that you don’t really want to share your living space with?

Many of the same tips above will work for other creatures too.

Keeping your trash well contained and stopping it from building up is especially important when it comes to creatures like rats and raccoons.

But there are also other things you can do to help.

I’ve got some great guides that might just give you the helping hand you’ve been waiting for.

Summary

Hopefully, you’re now feeling pretty confident that you know how to utilize DIY mouse repellents in combination with mouse-proofing your home for best results.

Natural mouse repellents are a tool in your kit. Some websites will claim they don’t work and try and get you to spend money on professionals.

While one natural repellent in one part of your house may not be enough by itself, the trick is to use a combination of them and take other measures to make your home hard to access and uninviting at the same time.

Have you tried any DIY mouse repellents? What were your results? I’d love to know what you did and whether you would recommend it!

If left unchecked, moss can start taking over and preventing grass from growing.

Bet this sounds familiar?

If moss is intruding on your grass, do not worry, as there are several ways to fix a moss infestation.

In this guide, we’ll take you step-by-step through how to get rid of moss in lawn naturally. As well as how to keep those naughty, mossy fingers out of your lawn in the future.

So before it does anymore creeping…

Let’s dive in.

12 Step Guide on How to Get Rid of Moss in the Yard

Step 1: Identifying the Problem

The best place to start is to know exactly what you’re dealing with when it comes to moss.

Moss is a small, primitive and, a non-vascular plant that typically grows in wooded areas and on forest floors. It is different from other common broadleaf weeds, as it doesn’t have a true root or stem system. Moss spreads by spores and plant fragments and will often have the appearance of a soft, green leafy carpet.

Sounds so appealing!

But let’s not be deceived. As we all know, moss can become a major problem in a lawn. No surprise then, that it’s classified as a common weed, similar to clovers and dandelions.

What Encourages Moss to Grow?

This is a good place to start when trying to figure out how to get rid of moss in your lawn.

It may seem that moss pushes grass out, however, that’s not the case.

So what’s the real story?

Grass struggles to grow where you find moss. Usually, the soil is too moist and compacted and it contains a high acidity level.

Moss grows in harsher conditions. Therefore if grasses cannot flourish in certain areas, then moss signals that the conditions are too difficult for your grass to grow. This can lead to your grass thinning and becoming weak, which can lead to other larger problems, such as exposing your lawn to pests and disease.

Before starting on any of the next steps, make sure you understand what factors might be encouraging the moss to grow in your lawn.

Some good food for thought…

Right, time to get onto the nitty-gritty stuff:

Step 2: Scarification

Sounds like a bit of a tongue-twister. But what is scarifying?

Scarifying is a lawn grooming exercise that involves digging into the soil to remove the dead grass. The objective is to encourage upright growth and to control the build-up of organic material underneath the grass.

If your lawn is not too big this can be done manually with a spring-tine rake. Simply rake the grass thoroughly wherever you see moss thriving. The rake will dig into the soil and make things a bit messy, but you’ll know it’s getting the job done!

Scarifying should only be done during periods of vigorous growth, such as in spring and autumn.

If your lawn is big, then simply hire a mechanical scarifier.

Step 3: Aeration

Soil compaction commonly occurs following the winter months, after layers of snow have pushed and packed the soil tightly together. This makes it difficult for the grassroots to soak up nutrients and for the roots to spread.

Compaction could also indicate poor soil condition. Certain soils, such as your clay type soils are more prone to compaction.

If you notice your soil is compacted, the easiest solution is to aerate it. You can do this by hand with a rake or other handheld tool, or you can use an automatic machine.

Wondering what the best aerators are out there?

Check out our selection of the best aerators available.

Step 4: Dethatching Your Lawn

Dethatching is pretty straightforward:

It’s all about dethatching the thatch.

Thatch is the layer of dead plant material that builds up between the green vegetation and the soil surface. You can remove the thatch with a rake or by using a dethatching blade attached to a mower. You’ll want to rake or cut right along the surface of the soil to rip up the moss.

It is important to note that it is nearly impossible to get rid of the moss completely, so you’ll need to apply additional moss control methods.

Here’s how to dethatch with a thatching rake:

Step 5: Check Your Soil pH and Nutrient Levels

It’s also important to check the pH level in your soil.

Moss can often indicate a low soil pH. And if the soil test confirms this, then simply add lime to raise the acidity level.

It’s also good to check other nutrients levels in your soil. You can get in touch with your local garden store and ask them to conduct a soil test for you.

After one test, you may just get to the ‘root’ of the problem.

Step 6: Easy Natural Moss Killer for Lawns

Here are some of the best methods of how to kill moss naturally.

Using Baking Soda

Baking soda is great at controlling moss growth in the yard. And here’s how to use it:

Make sure you wear a pair of gloves before handling the mixture. Mix 1 tablespoon of baking powder, to one gallon of water. This ratio will change, depending on the quantity and density of the moss.

For a larger area of moss, take it up a notch and mix 8 tablespoons of baking soda, to one quart of water. If necessary, you can also apply the baking soda directly to a high moss-infested area.

Check the area frequently and remove the dead moss. For maximum effect, baking soda will need to be applied between 2 and 3 times a week.

It’s also best to apply baking soda in the afternoons after the grass has dried.

Using Dish Soap

This method is super easy and works wonders.

Mix 2 ounces of dish soap with 2 gallons of water in a spray bottle and spray over the moss. Once applied the moss will change to an orange or brown color within 24 hours. As soon as it dries, you can rake up and remove the moss.

Step 7: What About Weed Killers and Chemicals?

Applying chemicals to kill moss and making sure it stays gone can be a very effective treatment, as long as the right product is used.

The problem is that moss doesn’t process water and nutrients like other plants, so applying normal weed killers to moss will not work. Also, chemicals used for removing moss from roofs or other structures are not to be used on the lawn.

The ideal time to get rid of moss in your lawn is when it’s actively growing. This is primarily during the fall rains, warm winter rains, and early spring.

If going the chemical route, make sure you get a moss-controlling product that contains iron, such as ferrous sulfate. These products are highly effective at killing moss, as it draws out excess moisture, causing the moss to dry up and turn black.

Some moss-killing products may include a fertilizer, which will also help at promoting grass growth at the same time.

Now that sounds like a win-win!

Related articles on weed killers: The 13 Best Commercial Weed Killers and The 13 Best Pet Safe Weed Killers.

Keep reading below to see our top product reviews for getting rid of moss in the yard.

Step 8: Improve Drainage in Your Lawn

Trying to find ways to prevent future moss in your lawn?

Then sorting out the soil drainage in your lawn is an important prevention method.

Moss thrives in soils with poor drainage. When your yard receives heavy rain, watch where the rainwater collects in and around your lawn. In sections where drainage is poor, use a spade to level the soil and grass.

It might be worthwhile installing a catch basin or drain tiles in particular areas. This is a great method for channeling the water where you want it to go. It will require some heavy lifting, but as soon as it’s done, your soil drainage problems will be sorted.

Alternatively, you can apply a fork throughout your lawn or dig tiny holes an inch deep to channel excess water.

Step 9: Improving Sunlight and the Surrounds

Does your grass have adequate access to sunlight?

Most species of moss tend to favor shadier conditions, while grasses need a decent amount of sunlight to grow. If your lawn is receiving less than 6 hours of sunlight per day, then you’ll need to improve it.

If your yard is predominantly shaded, you may want to prune or thin trees, especially around the base of a tree. Also, cut back garden beds that are looking bushy and overgrown. The biggest thing is to get as much sunlight as possible to your lawn.

You could also look at adding shade-loving grasses to sections of your lawn, such as St. Augustine and Bluegrass.

Then finally, take a look at other structures that may be hindering your grass from growing, such as tree roots.

Larger and exposed tree roots can block grassroots, causing moss to grow on top of the root as well as the surrounding areas. If possible, try to dig up and remove these tree roots.

Step 10: Correct Watering Regime

Finding the perfect balance of watering for your lawn can be a challenge.

Overwatering a lawn and excessive thinning of grass during drought periods can encourage moss to grow.

Too much water and the grassroots drown. Too little water and the soil will shrink, becoming more compact and making it more difficult for grassroots to grow and receive necessary minerals.

Start by paying attention to the weather and rain conditions. Use a rain gauge to measure how many inches of water your lawn is receiving and only water the lawn as necessary to supplement the rainwater.

It’s good to wait on the watering – only water your lawn when the top layer is noticeably dry.

Watering deeply but infrequently ensures the strongest grass growth. Barring any heavy rainfall, it is recommended that you water your lawn one to two times per week.

Step 11: Don’t Mow Too Often or Too Short

Keep track of how frequently you are mowing your lawn.

Cutting grass too short or unevenly will weaken the integrity of the grass itself as well as the root system as time goes on. And weakened grass is an open invitation for moss to take over.

As a rule of thumb:

Never aim to cut off more than one-third of the grass’s length in one go.

Perhaps you’re looking for a good lawnmower?

Take a peek at these helpful articles: The 19 Best Cheap Lawn Mowers of 2026 and The 8 Best Lawn Mowers For Small Yards.

Step 12: Keep Your Lawn in Good Condition

The bottom line:

Moss grows in areas where conditions are preventing grass from growing. Therefore aim to keep your lawn dense and in good condition, by applying fertilizer 4 times a year.

Then check out these great tips for keeping your lawn in good shape: Things to Avoid to Keep Your Lawn in Tip-Top Shape!

Here’s a summary video on how to get rid of moss in lawn naturally:

Some Recommended Products to Get Rid of Moss

Lilly Miller Moss Out

This product is a great natural moss killer for lawns, using a solution of liquid iron.

Follow the instructions carefully on the label and only apply it to the lawn. It’s important to keep animals and children off of the applied area.

Pros

Cons

Shade Spring Adjustable Metal Rake

If you’re looking for a user-friendly rake, this is the one!

It comes with an adjustable, rubber handle, making it easier to hold. The zinc layer on the surface of the rake improves its durability and decreases rusting.

Pros

Cons

Scotts MossEx Formula

Walmart.com

Here’s another wonderful natural moss killer for lawns.

Scotss MossEx will attack moss very effectively, making it turn black within a few hours of application. It also improves the quality of the lawn by adding nutrients to the soil, which helps prevent future moss infestations.

Pros

Cons

The Final Step

Time to get out there and start de-mossing your lawn and yard.

It will take some trial and error when trying to get rid of moss in lawn naturally.

But if you follow these steps you are guaranteed to see an improvement in your lawn.

Be sure to share and comment below about your personal experiences.

We look forward to hearing from you.